Newly refinished Diamond Brite pool and spa - start-up questions

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When adding drops to get TA, the green sometimes goes to near clear just before turning pink. I usually call this halfway. So green after drop 2, no color after drop 3, and pink after drop 4. I dont want to call that 40 because I think it was just about there at 30. So I call it 35.

The good news is that my chemistry seems under control and pH is drifting upward like it is supposed to. I am going to talk to install and Diamond Bright rep about all the color and fine aggregate coming off. I am still going through more than one cartridge filter/day in the spa and a daily DE change.

Pool (69 degrees):
FC 3
pH 7.9
TA 120
CH 250
CYN 30
CSI +0.36

Spa (72 degrees):
FC 3
pH 7.5
TA 150
CH 375
CYN 30
CSI +0.22
 
Focusing on CSI targeting +0.50, I am letting the pool pH get to 8.1 tonight and will add some acid to pool tomorrow. Is it OK to let the pH run this high, given SGM recommendation of 7.2-7.6? Unless I bring up the CH, I cannot get pH into their range without a negative CSI.
 
pgershon said:
Focusing on CSI targeting +0.50, I am letting the pool pH get to 8.1 tonight and will add some acid to pool tomorrow. Is it OK to let the pH run this high, given SGM recommendation of 7.2-7.6? Unless I bring up the CH, I cannot get pH into their range without a negative CSI.
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You are getting overly obsessed with a number. You can’t lock in and keep a pH number.

I would go for a pH of 7.8 and take whatever CSI that gives.
 
Everything is looking much better. Still getting lots of dust coming off, but less than before and it seems less and less each day. Have not changed cartridge filter in two days (had been 1-3 times per day) and DE lasted a day and a half.

I have two general questions:

1) Should I be brushing with wire or nylon brush? My installer suggested the wire brush, but most things I read suggest nylon. I get more dust off with the wire brush - I have been alternating to date, mostly nylon.

2) At what speed should I be running variable speed pump? I have been running on high figuring it will filter more, but int wait for electric bill.
 
pgershon said:
1) Should I be brushing with wire or nylon brush? My installer suggested the wire brush, but most things I read suggest nylon. I get more dust off with the wire brush - I have been alternating to date, mostly nylon.
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I don't think it matters a lot either way. Brushing is to keep the plaster dust from hardening on the surface. Either type of brush should do that.
pgershon said:
2) At what speed should I be running variable speed pump? I have been running on high figuring it will filter more, but int wait for electric bill.
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I don't think you need to run more then 2200-2400 rpm for good circulation.
 
Going through about a gallon of chlorine every other day to maintain about 3 PPM of chlorine without my SWG. Does that sound about right for 30,000-35,000 pool?
 
pgershon said:
Going through about a gallon of chlorine every other day to maintain about 3 PPM of chlorine without my SWG. Does that sound about right for 30,000-35,000 pool?
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Yes, what % chlorine?

What date code on the jugs?
 
I gallon of 12% gives you 4.2 ppm of FC. Burn of around 2 ppm of FC is about right this time of year in our area.
 
I have a few more questions, if you dont mind, now that's its been 2+ weeks since the pool was filled and my chemistry is stable and I have the heaters back in the plumbing. I know I need to wait 28 days to add salt for my SWG and to run my pool robot, but what can I do now? I assume its OK to swim.

1) Can I run the heaters now after 17 days? It would be great to have the pool heated for holiday weekend and to get the spa up to 104.

2) Can I run the pool's waterfall now? I had read to wait to run pool water features.

3) Is there a recommended way to clean the pool bottom while I cant use the robot? I have a hand held pool vacuum that I have used on the spa, but the pool is much larger and its less useful there. I have small leaves and lots of aggregate on the pool bottom. I figure I removed about a quart of aggregate from the spa already with the vacuum over the last 5 days. Its pretty clean now.
 

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pgershon said:
I assume its OK to swim.
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Yes, ok to swim.

pgershon said:
1) Can I run the heaters now after 17 days? It would be great to have the pool heated for holiday weekend and to get the spa up to 104.

2) Can I run the pool's waterfall now? I had read to wait to run pool water features.
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I would not run the heater or water features if you are still seeing palster dust.

Why no heater use for first 30 days? With new plaster there is a lot of plaster dust in the water and the pH is usually very high. When you heat water the potential for scale formation in the heater increases significantly. The actual timeframe for waiting to use the heater has no real merit. As long as the plaster dust is under control and the pH is in range there is no reason not to use it. Your risk of rushing to use the heater is scale clogging up the heater coil.

pgershon said:
3) Is there a recommended way to clean the pool bottom while I cant use the robot? I have a hand held pool vacuum that I have used on the spa, but the pool is much larger and its less useful there. I have small leaves and lots of aggregate on the pool bottom. I figure I removed about a quart of aggregate from the spa already with the vacuum over the last 5 days. Its pretty clean now.
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Again, depends if you have no plaster dust...

Why no wheeled cleaner for first 30 days? Plaster is sufficiently hard once the pool is full of water. Pool cleaners can be installed and utilized after about two days if there is no plaster dust forming. The reason that tracks develop is usually from plaster dust being "packed down" by the pool cleaner wheels and then not removed by brushing. So it can look like an "indention" (and discolored) but it is not an indention. Brushing afterwards can help prevent the plaster dust from sticking on the plaster.
 
How does one know if they still have plaster dust? The spa water is now clear even after brushing and the filter pressure is no longer rising much if at all during use. But I do still have aggregate settling in the bottom. I think most of it go stuck in the jets intake screen/vent and could not be brushed away. When I finally ran here s the first few times there was a lot of clouds and dust, but even this is over. So I think dust probably stopped.

Pool side is harder as it’s deeper and difficult to see bottom perfectly. But I think dust gone too. Maybe I hold on heater but run waterfall on pool.

I do have one other issue. Pool may be leaking somewhere as calcium level declining. I will follow for another day or two before I say for sure.
 
I don;t know whay you want to push thinsg and run your water features this early. If palster dust clogs your water features you will have problems getting it fixed.

Why isn't your water TFP clear?

How Clear is TFP Clear? Let's See (Pics Only Please).

How clear should my water be? A very common question. Here is mine on a calm morning where I could finally vacuum. Yes I know, I'm still manually vacuuming. It took me 7 years to finally get an SWG, I'm working on a robot. :) So now let's see your water clarity.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
"Water feature" for me is a big 2" pipe that comes off a jandy switch when I turn on that flows as an extra return over a big rock. Nothing small to clog that I can think of.

My water is is TFT clear. Adding photos from above with pump off and on. With pump on, the turbulence makes it harder to see aggregate that collected at the bottom of the deep end.
 

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I cannot get a straight answer from my installer. He is focused on my 8.0 pH (wants it below 7.6) and never heard of CSI or LSI. I just don't know how to tell when paster dust has completely stopped. Pretty sure it has in spa. Not sure on pool.
 
So how does one judge on a DE filter? By looking for rise in filter pressure over time? Spa filter pressure has been constant. Pool is harder to judge because I have varied pump speed. I will change DE tonight and then keep constant for 2 days and see what it looks like. Make sense?
 
You said you saw the blue plaster dust when back-washing so you should be able to judge if the filter is still capturing plaster dust.
 
What I cannot tell is if the filter is capturing the plaster or the blue aggregate that has come off. It more like sand than plaster. That is what I am still finding a bit in the spa on the surface, but the filter is clean.
 
Made great progress with pool. Water real clear and pool socks not picking up any dust or blue color. Two quick questions:

1) Diamond Brite installer telling me to get my pH to 7.6 or below. But doing so will make my CSI negative. I have been keeping pH 7.8-8.2 range although it’s now pretty stable at 8.0 without my adding acid. Should I continue as I am or drop pH to follow instructions?

2) pool continues to consume much more chlorine than spa. Might this be do in part to the large amounts of pollen landing in pool all day this time of year? Skimmers are collecting it but I could see how it might tax my chlorine usage.

Today’s chemistry at pool:

FC 0.5 (added more)
pH 8.0
TA 90
CH 375
CYA 50
Temp 69

Thanks
 

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