Spa draining into pool

Your question: Then put the toggle switch to 1 and 2 and record what position the handle moves to, if it moves.
Ok, toggle clicked right so handle is right just as above. Pool runs normally; spa spillover as well. Turn pump off, spa drains.
Toggle to left, handle rotates 180 degrees facing left. Same as above but the pool wall jets are active. Turn pump off in this condition, spa does not drain.
Cannot enable a setting or mode that seems to activate that valve to turn. It has been toggled off since I started this exercise. Handle facing right.

Put the toggle to the left. The pool wall jets/returns should have water coming out of them. This is the normal way the pool should run.

SPA should be OFF on your app.

Now press SPA on your Aqualink app to turn it on. Does the valve rotate the handle to the right?
 
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Do the same test with the toggle switch noting handle position with the red and green actuators…

550cb61a-fdd4-4070-aa2d-e1b3acbd135c-jpeg.360128
 
Yes. I believe you've done it. The red (main pump) and blue (water return) actuators rotate in SPA mode and back after turning off. It appears the water return actuator was toggled off but it stays facing the left and the spa remains full. All modes are OFF. THANK YOU ALLEN!!! I have several other issues but I'll find the appropriate forum category for those. PS. Both of these valves drip just a bit when in SPA mode. I bought o-ring kits, diverters and a check valve. Is it likely the o-rings will solve that?
 
Keep going with your other issues on this thread now that we understand your plumbing better.

I would like to see that you understand what all your pipes go to.
 
I think I have a good gasp on the pipe routing with the exception of the Paramount floor system. I'll punt that headache for now.
SO.....the salt cell was heavily corroded when we moved in. See image below on left. The previous owner is in the pool industry and left a spare cell. As the cell was beyond repair, my pool service company placed the new cell into service. Within a couple of weeks, I saw the wire and cell were burned and arcing. See image on right. The pool service didn't know what happened and recommended I call a "certified tech" and referred to Leslie's Pool Service. They are booked until Sept 5. So, I called around and a pool supply house told me to never replace a salt cell without cutting the power (breaker) and to also always replace the power cord with the cell. They are usually sold as a kit. Jandy, for whatever reason, doesn't do this. So, this was an $850 mistake I'd like to avoid in the future. I pulled the control wire from the panel so the arcing would cease and a new cell and cord are to arrive this week. I'd like to make sure they are installed correctly. BTW, all pool service companies in my area are too overloaded so I'm trying to take on the pool now with forums like this and people like you. The pool is much more maintenance than I expected.
 

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The next issue is the Jandy JXi gas heater. When the spa turns on, it makes a clanging noise and the pipes shake violently. It's highly unlikely we'll ever use the pool heater and likely only use the spa heater in the winter. We have short winters; late November to March but I'd like it to be working. The pool service company has the chemicals where they are supposed to be.
 
Your Paramount floor cleaning system was not operating properly because no water was getting to the left side pipes that have your pool return, spa makeup line, and cleaner line.

See what it does now that you have water flowing on those pipes.

Is your spa spillover running now along with your pool return jets?

I will get back to you on your SWG and heater.

You are doing great. These are new owner problems due to prior owner neglect. Once we get things sorted out and you understand the systems it will be a lot less work.
 
All that calcium scale on your SWG says your water chemistry is not correct. Do you have a TF-100 Test Kits or a Taylor K-2006C?

When you get one post your water chemistry as…

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
SALT
CSI
WATER TEMP

Do you have PoolMath?
 
It looks like you have a flow meter on the pipe behind the heater. What does it read? Post a pic of it.

Check the flow meter reading in POOL mode and SPA mode.
 
Thank you. A few of the heads pop up when I select clean mode. They may work in groups but they are definitely moving water. The pool inspector implored me not to spend a penny or time on the system and to get a plug in/drop in pool vacuum. He likened the floor system like cleaning your house with a leaf blower. :) I haven’t bought a vacuum yet though. This is from the inspection report
 

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Floor Cleaner Heads - Okay - Working, But Not Turning - Let it Go
This pool has a Floor Cleaner System (Caretaker System, In Floor Cleaning System) to push dirt and debris to the side walls of the pool. I observed thirteen - 2” heads in the pool. As mentioned in the video, these systems never properly work as they should and you will need to have your Pool Tech occasionally vacuum the pool floor.
Almost all of the heads were working and producing strong water flow, which is great for circulation, especially in the deep end. This issue is - like with all Floor Cleaner Systems, the heads are not turning to push dirt and debris to the side walls. Still, I would call the water pressure good as circulation is so important. Let the lacking functionality go or you will die of frustration. Ha! None of the heads
were showing signs of leaking at the time.
2 Sheer Descent Waterfalls - Good -
 
It’s dark so I’ll tackle in the morning. I haven’t done the pool chemistry since I’ve hired that out. I have a day job and wanted to find somebody to manage that part 😃 but may change my mind after I solve all these issues. And thanks a million again.
 
To solve some of these issues you need to have the ability to do your own pool testing.
 
Floor Cleaner Heads - Okay - Working, But Not Turning - Let it Go
This pool has a Floor Cleaner System (Caretaker System, In Floor Cleaning System) to push dirt and debris to the side walls of the pool. I observed thirteen - 2” heads in the pool. As mentioned in the video, these systems never properly work as they should and you will need to have your Pool Tech occasionally vacuum the pool floor.
Almost all of the heads were working and producing strong water flow, which is great for circulation, especially in the deep end. This issue is - like with all Floor Cleaner Systems, the heads are not turning to push dirt and debris to the side walls. Still, I would call the water pressure good as circulation is so important. Let the lacking functionality go or you will die of frustration. Ha! None of the heads
were showing signs of leaking at the time.
2 Sheer Descent Waterfalls - Good -

@proavia what do you think about this?
 
@proavia what do you think about this?
Sounds like previous owners didn't take very good care of the pool or any of the equipment - and the pool inspector doesn't know how an infloor system actually operates.

I am guessing that post #51 is what the pool inspector wrote. I see a lot of misinformation in post #51.

A properly functioning infloor system doesn't push dirt and debris to the sidewalls. Actually, the infloor eventually pushes dirt and debris toward the main drains. While not a perfect system, most all dirt and debris gets to the main drains for removal. If the system only pushed dirt and debris to the sidewalls, none of it would ever get removed from the pool by the system. Based on the condition of the infloor system components - water valve, cleaning heads (pop-ups)and water pressure/flow - the system may not be working at optimum efficiency. Only the OP can determine if it is more cost efficient to fix the infloor or abandon it and replace with a good quality robot (not a suction or pressure cleaner). But first, the OP needs to fully understand how the infloor actually works and not take the word of an inspector who obviously doesn't understand infloor systems.

Request a picture of the water valve for the infloor. Is there a pressure gauge on or near the water valve? Is this a top feed or side feed water valve? If the pop-ups are extending and staying up and/or only some zones work, chances are the water valve internals are stuck or broken. The heads on one zone should pop-up for 45-90 seconds and then retract (as they retract, they rotate slightly), then the water valve should open the next zone. Once the system goes thru all zones, it starts again with the original zone. Somethings a particular zone may come on again before a cycle thru all zones completes. We can help diagnose that, but need to know what water valve is being used.

There is a lot going on with this pool - much of what needs to be fixed and/or reprogrammed. One thing I don't see is any accurate test results. I have seen statements of the chemicals are good and requests that the OP get one of the recommended test kits - Test Kits Compared - but haven't heard if that will ever happen. Unfortunately, this pool will probably go green while we are trying to solve other problems.

Does the OP have a recommended test kit or have one on order?
How is this pool being chlorinated today?
When was the pool water last tested and by whom?
What test kit was used?
What are the current results?

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temp


Request the OP fill out their signature with pool, pool equipment (including manufacturer and model numbers) and test kit info so we don't need to scroll thru 50+ posts to grab a tidbit here and there about the pool and equipment. Having it in the signature assists us in helping you.

A bit of dirt and debris because the infloor isn't presently functioning well isn't going to necessarily turn the pool green - but lack of chlorination will.

Sorry for the blunt/brash reply, but first things first. While some of the issues may be related, trying to tackle all at once can lead quickly to even more frustration with the pool.
 
Thanks Gene. Answers to your questions below:

Does the OP have a recommended test kit or have one on order? No, but will review your list on the recommendation above and get one.
How is this pool being chlorinated today? SWG (broken at the moment) and crystal and tab chlorine provided by the pool service company. They also use stabilizer and other liquids. Weekly service.
When was the pool water last tested and by whom? Every Tuesday by the pool service (cleaning) company.
What test kit was used? They come today and I’ll ask.
What are the current results? Same as above. Ive asked about some of these issues but they get defensive and say you can “drink the pool water we keep it so clean.“. My concern is all the equipment and balance required to keep the salt level accurate. They, and others, have no interest in servicing equipment. They just want to do a 10 minute clean and leave.
Let me know the order to tackle. Here is the list of “broken” things. I put these in the order I believe is accurate
-OP (me) has limited lack of pool chemical knowledge so need an education on a test kit that provides the data requested on FC, PH, etc
- Salt cell and power cord lead are damaged and a new one is en route. See images in post 45
- Salt cell housing (Fusion 2) leaks at the sensor
-A few valves are dripping.
- Heater has a knocking noise
- floor system now operational but 4 of the heads are stuck in the Up position. Last night‘s cleaning cycle appeared to just move leaves/dirt around. Pictures here
 

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Let me know the order to tackle. Here is the list of “broken” things. I put these in the order I believe is accurate
-OP (me) has limited lack of pool chemical knowledge so need an education on a test kit that provides the data requested on FC, PH, etc

TFP is all about educating pool owners so they can maintain their own pools and divorce themselves from pool companies. We can teach you although you will find TFP methods for a oool owner who can regularly spend a few minutes tending the pool is different then a pool service who gives your pool 15 minutes of attention a week. Which do you think will have better outcomes?

When you have some free time checkout these articles...


It is likely your pool water chemistry may be good enough to drink but is not good for your pool equipment. Get one of the recommended test kits and we will find out.

Your water chemistry may be the first thing to work on since it is causing other problems you list.

- Salt cell and power cord lead are damaged and a new one is en route. See images in post 45
- Salt cell housing (Fusion 2) leaks at the sensor

This is the next thing to get fixed. But no point in hooking up a new $850 SWG if your water chemistry will kill it again.

BTW you have the Jandy Nature 2 Fusion that has both a SWG cell and a mineral cartridge. You should run it with an empty mineral cartridge. The minerals accumulate in your water and can lead to staining of your pool. Read...

Nature2 Fusion - Further Reading

-A few valves are dripping.

That is minor and can wait a bit.

- Heater has a knocking noise

I think the knocking noise is caused by ketteling. Basically you have low water flow through the heater causing the water to boil. That's why I asked what your flow meter shows. And next is to ask when your filter was last cleaned?

- floor system now operational but 4 of the heads are stuck in the Up position. Last night‘s cleaning cycle appeared to just move leaves/dirt around. Pictures here

That is probably the toughest problem to fix. But your pool wil be fine without it operating. Once we get the other stuff fixed we can discuss what to do about the IFCS.
 
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thanks. Here are the things you've asked for:
Test kit on order; Taylor K-2006
How to run the Fusion today with no salt cell/mineral cell. Need process to run it until chemistry is correct to replace it. I'll read Nature2 Fusion site/blog if it shows how to run it in my current state with damaged cord/cell.
Heater has never been used. Only knocks when warms up and starts to flow heated water.
Filters cleaned 2 months ago; June 8
Flow meter reading pictures. SPA and POOL mode do not change the reading.
 

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thanks. Here are the things you've asked for:
Test kit on order; Taylor K-2006

I hope you have ordered the C version of the K-2006. The K-2006 has small bottles of reagents and you will run out quickly. The C has larger quantities and you will not need refills so soon.

How to run the Fusion today with no salt cell/mineral cell. Need process to run it until chemistry is correct to replace it. I'll read Nature2 Fusion site/blog if it shows how to run it in my current state with damaged cord/cell.

Leave the old SWG cell in your fusion without it plugged in and this article decribes how to empty the minerals...


Heater has never been used. Only knocks when warms up and starts to flow heated water.
Filters cleaned 2 months ago; June 8
Flow meter reading pictures. SPA and POOL mode do not change the reading.

What is your filter PSI gauge reading?
 

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