Recent content by aspiringnobody

It could probably be patched; 8 years is a long time for an intex pool though so I'd say it's time for a replacement pool. Many intex owners hold those returns up with string or wire to help prevent that very issue.

Polyquat 60 is the sanitizer in optifree contact lens solution so it's also safe for eyes. One of my favorite parts of that product.

How'd you make the cap?

The aquarium tubing may be collapsing under the pressure as well. You may need to use poly-flex tubing to keep it open under suction.

I wonder if it's self priming from the ground level? Edit: I modified one of my intex returns with a piece of conduit to make more of a nozzle (it's a 3/4 to 1/2 inch adapter) that clicked into the tabs on the backside of the eyeball, which should reduce the pressure differential and thus...

That intex thing that screws into the return (the little cartridge muffler thing) IS a check valve BTW. It's probably NOT chlorine friendly. Looks to be a foam rubber type deal. You can regulate the dose by dilution as well, figure out how much liquid is drawn in your pump run time and then...

Note that the sand might need replaced entirely. Over the years it "rounds off" like stones on a beach. It might not be rough enough to filter properly. Good time to inspect the laterals in the filter and make sure they're not cracked.

If you can return it, you can do so and order a tf-100 from tftestkits.net to save some money. If not you can order the fas-dpd test seperatly on Amazon for around $25.

You'll be fine! I recently added a full box of boraxo to the pool and within a week or had cleared and stopped foaming. Just give it time!

The phosphate level in any pool will rise over time as dust and organic matter fall into the pool. It's a misconception that once you remove it it's gone forever

The PhosFree stuff the pool store sells is a scam imo. @mknauss has another brand he reccomends for removing phosphates, but it's expensive. There is very very little reason to do this. 800 parts per BILLION (all the other measurements for the pool are in parts per million) is practically...

I'd add that if the concrete is angled away from the pool to an excessive degree that's HIS fault because he put it there, and he needs to rip it out and start again.

For anyone wondering in the future I figured out you can just pull the entire venturi out of the return. As long as you leave the check-valve air intake in it will function as a normal 1.5" return with no restriction.

Was there a flocculant in the "opening kit" you used?

I find the CYA sock works better in fron of a return than in the skimmer. If/when you start using borax for ph up keep a running tally of how much borax you've added to the pool. Eventually you may decide to add borates to the pool and it will be helpful to know how much is already in there...