You need to get one of the two recommended test kits and post those results. Can’t really advise with what you have there.Looking for feedback of anything looks troubling (especially low calcium).
I’ve attached my readings from Pool Math app. Gunite pool.
You need to get one of the two recommended test kits and post those results. Can’t really advise with what you have there.
I have a Taylor test kit. Very familiar with how to use it. Have used one for years. I recently bought a WaterGuru device and test weekly with Taylor and it’s close. Soooooooo, back to my original question.You need to get one of the two recommended test kits and post those results. Can’t really advise with what you have there.
They’re not.
I guess I didn’t word my question where it could be understood easily. I’m aware of the recommended levels which is why I’m asking the question in the first place. The CSI seems fine, but other levels are not in the recommended range.![]()
What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?
Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.www.troublefreepool.com
Are they from the Guru? Can't get 6.7 FC on a Taylor kit, for example, would have to be in .2 or .5 increments. We'd like to see your results from your test kit.They’re not.
You really want to use 250 CH as the floor for a plaster pool. Can you test your fill water for CH? You might be ok, if you have high CH fill. If not, adjust to 250.I guess I didn’t word my question where it could be understood easily. I’m aware of the recommended levels which is why I’m asking the question in the first place. The CSI seems fine, but other levels are not in the recommended range.
Thanks, CH was one of my concerns. I have plenty of Calcium on hand to add, but hesitated when the CSI was in acceptable range.Are they from the Guru? Can't get 6.7 FC on a Taylor kit, for example, would have to be in .2 or .5 increments. We'd like to see your results from your test kit.
You really want to use 250 CH as the floor for a plaster pool. Can you test your fill water for CH? You might be ok, if you have high CH fill. If not, adjust to 250.
We also recommend you round your CYA up to the next 10. Here's why...see #7:
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CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test
Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…www.troublefreepool.com
Your FC is reasonable for your CYA of 60. Always follow this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Your TA is very high. If that number is from the Guru, I would encourage you to test again with your Taylor and report that. Would you also test your fill water for TA?
When the water warms up, your CSI will rise slightly. You may find that you need to lower your TA to keep CSI in check.
You didn't mention how you are chlorinating???
Thanks, I actually am familiar with the aeration strategy. We have a fountain and 2 bubblers, so I'm able to raise pH fairly quickly. So you don't seen any concerns on the CH front?That TA and CH make more sense.
Your Taylor test is the gold standard. Trust it. Fine to use Guru for monitoring, but use the Taylor for any adjustments. As you can see CH is higher, pH is higher, and TA is lower, Taylor v. Guru.
Test your fill water for TA and CH, and report those. My guess is your TA is high and CH is also.
Given the Taylor results, and new CSI, I would work your TA down.
Here is my link to the method...
Lowering Total Alkalinity (TA) Quickly with the Acid Aeration Method
Thought I'd make a post that might help others. We've had quite a few members this year with high TA, and I've been typing the same information over and over. I'm going to post this so I can link it to help others. High TA can cause rapid pH rise. High TA is typically caused by high TA fill...www.troublefreepool.com
Not at 300 CH.Thanks, I actually am familiar with the aeration strategy. We have a fountain and 2 bubblers, so I'm able to raise pH fairly quickly. So you don't seen any concerns on the CH front?