Can these be replaced? You have to literally turn them with pliers. Is this something you can do with pool turned off?
Valves
- Thread starter Jcsmith9
- Start date
JC,
No one here would ever recommend using PVC ball valves.. And, you have discovered why.
Replacing them with Jandy style diverter valves is the only sensible to thing to do..
The problem, of course, is that depending on your equipment pad lay out, a lot of plumbing work would be involved...
Sorry,
Jim R.
No one here would ever recommend using PVC ball valves.. And, you have discovered why.
Replacing them with Jandy style diverter valves is the only sensible to thing to do..
The problem, of course, is that depending on your equipment pad lay out, a lot of plumbing work would be involved...
Sorry,
Jim R.
Here is a picture of the equipment pad. Do you think it will require the whole thing to be replumbed?JC,
No one here would ever recommend using PVC ball valves.. And, you have discovered why.
Replacing them with Jandy style diverter valves is the only sensible to thing to do..
The problem, of course, is that depending on your equipment pad lay out, a lot of plumbing work would be involved...
Sorry,
Jim R.
Attachments
JC,
Well, the good news is that you don't have a lot of ball valves..
You have to remove both ball valves in front of your pump, install two -2-way Jandy valves and connect that to the intake of your pump..
All and all, pretty easy to do in your case.
It appears you have two return lines, that have no valves.. One goes through the SWCG and back to the pool. Where does the other one go?
Your input to your booster pump is shut off.. Do you no longer use it??
Thanks,
Jim R.
Well, the good news is that you don't have a lot of ball valves..
You have to remove both ball valves in front of your pump, install two -2-way Jandy valves and connect that to the intake of your pump..
All and all, pretty easy to do in your case.
It appears you have two return lines, that have no valves.. One goes through the SWCG and back to the pool. Where does the other one go?
Your input to your booster pump is shut off.. Do you no longer use it??
Thanks,
Jim R.
Yeah I have a dolphin robot now and don’t use it anymore. Is there a way to make that return push water out? Would love to have three jets pushing water.
JCS,
Sure.. Just remove the booster and connect input to the output... Basically, you just by-pass the booster. I'd use PCV and not the hose..
With a single speed pump, it does not matter, but if you ever get a VS pump, you really want all the water to pass through the SWCG and then split up to the three outputs.. This would allow you to run the VS pump at the slowest speed possible and still keep the SWCG's flow switch happy.
Thanks,
Jim R.
JCS,
If all you want to do is by-pass your booster, then you don't have to do any actual plumbing work. Just connect the two hoses going to your booster.
But, if you wanted to do everything, then yes... it would make sense to replumb the pad.
You have got plenty of room and it would be easy to do..
Some equipment pads are pretty complex and built in such a way that it is almost impossible to do any work at all, without rebuilding the whole equipment pad.. You do not have that problem, as your set-up is pretty straight forward.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Could you walk me through step by step on what I need to do to bypass the booster?
Could you circle in the picture what two hoses I need to connect together to bypass the filter?
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,992
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Remove the two black fittings (red arrows) and replace with PVC plugs (second pic below) of the appropriate size.
So once I remove the hoses and replace with pvc plugs do I open the valve and water should come out the middle return?
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,992
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
If you want water out of the line, then don't use plugs. Plumb the two connections together. Probably smarter as it will allow chlorination of the line.
As mentioned in the previous post I didn’t think plumbing would need to be required.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,992
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
To avoid plumbing, you can remove the hoses from the pump, circle below...then use a connector (see picture) to connect the two hoses together.
Pentair booster pumps should be 3/4"...so you can use one of these to couple the two
Pentair booster pumps should be 3/4"...so you can use one of these to couple the two
Flying Tivo
TFP Guide
- Jan 24, 2017
- 3,100
- Pool Size
- 7500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
This is the way i would plum the new lines and valves. Dont try to put them where the old valves are.
So once you connect them together the middle return should move water?
So I bought the piece and removed the hoses as circled. The hoses will not go into the piece I bought. Am I doing something wrong?
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,992
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Post the model number of the pump, should be on the wet side of the pump. You could also measure, may be 1.5" Depends on the pump.
See label below for model number. Can you also take a close up of the connection from hose to the pump...it may be that they put unions on the lines...
Also, what is the diameter of the hose? It may be marked…
See label below for model number. Can you also take a close up of the connection from hose to the pump...it may be that they put unions on the lines...
Also, what is the diameter of the hose? It may be marked…
Last edited:
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,992
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Why don’t you just open the red valve on the right and allow water to flow through pump…
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