CT Inground Gunnite Pool Build

CanWeGetAPoolDad

New member
Sep 14, 2024
4
West Hartford, CT
Hi All,

Thanks for contributing to this site, its an awesome resource!

Starting to plan the build of a 16'x40' ~30,000 gallon freeform inground gunnite pool w/spa. 8' ft deep end, 4' shallow end.
Meeting with 2 reputable builders in the area that have both been in business ~30 years.

Trying to get an idea of what equipment we should go with. Soaking up all the info on this site, but its a lot to take in. We've never had a pool, so mostly trying to figure out what will make for a good modern plumbing/electrical setup.
  • We want Salt Water, so a 60k SWG seems right.
  • Pump?
  • Filter - Large Cartridge?
  • Skimmers - 2 w/ 2.5" pipe, each separately plumbed? Any suggestions on location?
  • Returns - 8 w/ 2.5" pipe?
  • Heater? Thinking 400k BTU natural gas since we'll have the attached spa. Is there any advantage to having a heat pump in addition to a gas heater? Bypass?
  • Robot cleaner. Any suggestions for a pool this size?
Any layout items or features that you love, wish you had, or regret?
  • Tanning Ledge? If so, whats a good height, 12"?
  • benches (more/less)?
  • Cabana/Pavilion?
  • Umbrella sleeves?
  • Automation?
  • Waterfall?
Finishes:
  • suggestions on texture?
  • durability?
 
  • We want Salt Water, so a 60k SWG seems right.
  • Pump?
  • Filter - Large Cartridge?
If I were building a pool I would get the following:
  • Pentair IntelliCenter bundle with IC40 SWG. If builder will not swap out IC40 for IC60 then use IC40 and replace it with IC60 when used up.
  • Pentair Intelliflo3 pump with touch screen
  • Pentair CCP420 cartridge filter
  • Pentair MasterTemp 400 gas heater
Hayward pool equipment is ok. I would never get Jandy equipment on a new pool although that is often what builders push.

  • Skimmers - 2 w/ 2.5" pipe, each separately plumbed? Any suggestions on location?

Skimmer location depends on design of the pool and prevailing winds. You want prevailing winds blowing towards the skimmers.

  • Returns - 8 w/ 2.5" pipe?

8 returns is overkill and will weaken the return flow. 3 to 4 is all you need. Placement depends on pool design.

  • Heater? Thinking 400k BTU natural gas since we'll have the attached spa.

See above.

  • Is there any advantage to having a heat pump in addition to a gas heater?

Depends how you intend to use the pool across the seasons. A 30K gallon pool is too large for a heat pump to maintain heat in the cooler months unless you have a pool cover.


Always - Heater Bypass - Further Reading

  • Robot cleaner. Any suggestions for a pool this size?

Size doesn't matter.

  • Tanning Ledge? If so, whats a good height, 12"?

You are in Hartford CT and not Miami. How much are you going to be sitting out on your tanning ledge? Tan on your deck, swim in your pool.

  • benches (more/less)?
Benches around the pool and in the deep area are good for people to hang out and sit in the water.

  • Cabana/Pavilion?

Depends on the space available and how much of an entertaining lounge area you want. Remember that whatever you build will be used less then half the year.

  • Umbrella sleeves?

I think you wish you were in Miami.

  • Automation?

Yes.

  • Waterfall?

What for?

Finishes:
  • suggestions on texture?

Have you ever been in a pebble pool? I hate rough pebble pools. Try one before you buy one.

  • durability?
All plaster pool finishes are equally durable if properly maintained and can be killed prematurely.



 
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Reactions: PoolStored
You got me on the 8' depth!! OH what fun this pool will be! Now lets talk about the shape of the pool!

L shape is the best of both worlds. The "leg" will be the 8' for swimming and diving! The "foot" will be 4' deep with a steps running all along the "toes". The "foot" will be a wonderful place to play Watermelon ball and such fun games!
 
Thanks Allen! I think I do wish I was at a different latitude :cool:

We don't get much wind because of all the trees up here in New England, so maybe it won't matter too much? They'll probably end up going somewhat diagonal across from each other on the sides I guess...

Met with the 1st builder today, he uses Pentair equipment, so should line up well with what you recommended. He said they don't really do the PebbleTec finishes anymore because people don't like the texture. He recommended granite if we wanted something different than plaster. I like it if its within budget, but wonder if it would be too smooth. I think I also read somewhere on here that sometimes the pigments fade so you should make sure the actual stone is the prevailing color you want. Not sure if pigments have gotten better or if that was only an issue with certain manufacturers. They have a little pool tour where they show some of the pools they've done, so hopefully that will have a few variations. Samples are good, but nothing beats real life examples that have been around awhile.

Thanks Kimkats! Its going to be a freeform lagoon-ish kind of pool, but the way my yard is I do think the shallow end will end up being somewhat wide, which will be great for the kids. I'm intrigued by Watermelon ball, how is it played?
 
In the Northeast the prevailing winds are from the West and skimmers should be on the East or Northeast side of a pool.
 
I'd recommend you go with a rectangular shape and consider a automatic pool cover. It'll give you longer months of swimming, retain the heat, eliminate evaporation for the most part and easier to control the chemistry.
 
Hi All, thanks for all the recommendations!

I met with the 2 pool builders and got initial quotes from them, and I've done a lot more reading, so of course I have more questions :)

First a little bit about the pool builders:

Both have been in business for about 30 years and they are the most reputable gunite pool builders in the area. They only build gunite pools. The 1st pool builder, lets call them Pool Builder "M", uses all their own people (no external contractors except for patio/fence/gas/electric), they have their own on-site Gunite factory and Gunite trucks. The 2nd builder, Pool Builder "A" subcontracts out the gunite, the interior finishes, and sometimes the tile/coping (kinda sounds like the most important parts). If I go with Pool Builder "A", then Pool Builder "M" will likely be providing the gunite.
Pool Builder "A" has been a Top 50 Pool Builder in the U.S. for 11 years in a row, and was #5 last year (for however much that's worth).
Before getting the quotes I was leaning toward Pool Builder "M", based on research and my interactions when they came out. Good discussion with both, "M" seemed to get what I wanted more, although "A" was very thorough on sizing and location (I did like his attention to detail). "A" recommended a circulation or cleaning system - to be fair, over the phone I told him I was interested in a cleaning system before reading more here.
When they came out I told both builders I wanted:
40'x16' freeform pool w attached Spa level w pool (approximately, I said I'm ok if its a bit smaller/larger, I just want it to fit the space well, and in measuring that seemed right)​
Attached Spa level w pool​
Saltwater Generator sized for 2x volume of pool​
Variable Speed Pump​
Large Cartridge Filter​
Gas/Propane Heater w/ External Bypass (they recommended Propane because I have oil heat)​
Lights​
Automation​
2 skimmers, with skimmers & returns each plumbed separately​
I asked what brand of equipment they use.
Builder "A": Jandy​
Builder "M": Pentair​

The Builder "M" quote came in significantly lower than the builder "A" quote. I expected it to be somewhat lower because of the inhouse gunite & plaster. Notably, "M" did size the pool a bit smaller, left the Salt Water Generator and Automation off the quote, and sized the heater smaller, so that's at least $5-10k additional I would think.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with builder "M", but I asked for the following initial modifications just to get the quotes to be more apples to apples:

I’d like to modify the proposal with the following:
  • Pentair IntelliCenter bundle with IC60 Salt Water Generator Pentair IntelliCenter i8PSIC60 Kit - Pool and Spa with Load Center and IC60
  • Pentair Intelliflo3 VS pump with touch screen
  • Pentair CCP420 cartridge filter
  • Pentair MasterTemp 400,000 BTU propane heater
  • External Bypass plumbed for the heater
  • High-Temp Unions on all equipment at the pad that allow equipment to be quickly disconnected from the plumbing without having to do any cutting and re-plumbing
  • Minimum 18" straight pipe before the SWG
  • 4 Returns (3 in pool, 1 in spa) and 2 skimmers plumbed in a multi-line fashion, with 2.5” pipe
  • Given the 2 skimmers, I’d like to forgo the main drain altogether
  • Spa Jets plumbed with 3” pipe
  • 4 Nichless dimmable LED Lights (3 in pool, 1 in spa), wired separately, all facing away from the house (total lumens should be 4x sq ft of pool)
  • GFCI outlets at equipment pad and shed & a light at equipment pad (so I can see at night)
  • Extra 2” empty conduit to shed/equipment pad
  • Wire line at the middle of the pool for the power supply of a Robot Cleaner
  • Removable Hand Rail at Stairs
I’d also like to price out several possible options individually to see how they would impact the price.

Options:
  • Expanding the pool to a 20’ x 40’ size. I just want to understand the potential price difference if it ended up being larger to fit the space.
  • Changing the depth to 4’ to 8’, both with the current 16’ x 38’ dimensions and the 20’ x 40’ dimension.
  • Stamped Concrete deck (Builder "M" said they can do stamped concrete themselves)
  • Quartz Finish
  • Jump Rock
  • Toe Tile on the stairs and benches
  • Raised spa
  • 12 spa jets instead of 6 (6 additional would be positioned lower for legs)
As we get farther along I'm going to ask to have some plastering standards written into the contract per the advice here.
I'm curious as to what you all think. Anything else I should ask for plumbing/electrical wise? Those are my two main concerns at this stage. Anything I should specify about the Spa Blower? Should I ask for a fill line to be hooked up to a future sprinkler system (I'm in CT, so I probably won't get much evaporation)? Do I need an overflow drain?

From what I understand, it seems like the overarching goal is to make sure I have them isolate the different parts of the system such that when something breaks or needs attention (heater, pump, return, SWG, etc.), I can still run the other parts and its easy to change out the broken part. For sizing (SWG, pump, heater), it seems like you want to oversize, so you can run things at lower capacity normally to use less energy, but also have the ability to ramp up when you want something to happen quickly (heat, circulate, add chlorine).

Thanks!
 

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The standard Pentair bundle comes with an IC40. Vendors like the one you linked to can replace the IC40 with an IC60 for an upcharge. See if your builder will do that. Otherwise take the IC40 bundle and use it and replace it with an IC60 when it wears out.

  • Pentair Intelliflo3 VS pump with touch screen
  • Pentair CCP420 cartridge filter
  • Pentair MasterTemp 400,000 BTU propane heater

Good.

How much do you pay for propane per therm? The heater will cost you about 4 therms for 1 degree of heat in the pool.

  • External Bypass plumbed for the heater

Good.

  • High-Temp Unions on all equipment at the pad that allow equipment to be quickly disconnected from the plumbing without having to do any cutting and re-plumbing

Not necessary to specify. The Intelliflo3 comes with unions, as does the filter, heater and SWG. So all your equipment already ahs unions.

  • Minimum 18" straight pipe before the SWG

Really specify all equipment will be installed in accordance with the manufacturers Installation Manuals. The straight pipe before the SWG is one of many details they should be following. And if their plumber does not read the manuals, as many do not, you will be asking the builder to correct it on their dime.

  • 4 Returns (3 in pool, 1 in spa) and 2 skimmers plumbed in a multi-line fashion, with 2.5” pipe
  • Given the 2 skimmers, I’d like to forgo the main drain altogether

Get the main drain.

  • Spa Jets plumbed with 3” pipe

Are you getting a spa blower or venturi air in the spa jets?

Spa jet feed pipe should be a minimum of 3" but spa jets need to be brought down to the jet and orifice size. Spa jet plumbing is complex to get right with water and air sources joined at a manifold for each jet. Let the builder and plumber tell you how he intends to do it.


Spa_Jet_Design.png

  • 4 Nichless dimmable LED Lights (3 in pool, 1 in spa), wired separately, all facing away from the house (total lumens should be 4x sq ft of pool)

What model lights? Intellibrite? GloBrite? MicroBrite?


  • 12 spa jets instead of 6 (6 additional would be positioned lower for legs)

The more spa jets you have the more you are dividing up the water flow requiring a larger pump or multiple pumps.

Do you intend to have a dedicated spa jet pump?

Should I ask for a fill line to be hooked up to a future sprinkler system (I'm in CT, so I probably won't get much evaporation)?

Depends what temperature you keep the pool. You can get evaporation when the water is warm on cool nights if you do not have a cover.

It also depends if we are having a dry or wet season. Periodic rains tend to offset the evaporation.


Do I need an overflow drain?

It takes a good builder who understand levels and math to site an overflow drain so you have full range of the skimmer for pool water and the overflow only dumps water when the water level gets above the skimmer mouth.

If you do not have an overflow drain you need to setup a drain valve in your plumbing to be able to dump water during or after a big storm.



 
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