I Like My CSI, Should I worry about TA and CH?

ShallowWater

Well-known member
May 8, 2020
482
Riverside, Ca
Pool Size
11000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Click my link to see latest test results. I've been trying to keep my CSI at or slightly below 0.00 to keep scaling at bay but this has obviously driven down TA, given my CH level. I have no apparent scaling but should I worry more about TA and CH?
 
Your TA is bordeline too low but as long as your pH is stable you can keep it.

Did you force your TA down from 80 to 40?

Adding acid to lower your pH may further lower your TA to where you should get it back to 50-60.

With CH of 850 - 900 you should plan to drain your pool and lower your CH when you can.

Let's get @mknauss thoughts.

1710440339531.png
 
Your TA is bordeline too low but as long as your pH is stable you can keep it.

Did you force your TA down from 80 to 40?

Adding acid to lower your pH may further lower your TA to where you should get it back to 50-60.

With CH of 850 - 900 you should plan to drain your pool and lower your CH when you can.

Let's get @mknauss thoughts.

View attachment 558276
I've been adding Muriatic Acid at the rate of about half a gallon a week to keep the pH down. As you can see above it is a constant battle for me, maybe because the CH has crept up over time in this new pool build filled at the end of 2022. I did post about doing a partial drain a while back but the consensus was inconclusive. I should add that currently I have the Chlorinator set to 25% for pool and 0% for spa but my FC remains elevated somewhat. Not sure why I was getting a read on CC with the water cold an chlorine high but suspect the reagent might need to be replaced. If I win the pool photo contest, I'll use the winnings for some new reagents!
 
I've been adding Muriatic Acid at the rate of about half a gallon a week to keep the pH down. As you can see above it is a constant battle for me, maybe because the CH has crept up over time in this new pool build filled at the end of 2022. I did post about doing a partial drain a while back but the consensus was inconclusive. I should add that currently I have the Chlorinator set to 25% for pool and 0% for spa but my FC remains elevated somewhat. Not sure why I was getting a read on CC with the water cold a chlorine high but suspect the reagent might need to be replaced. If I win the pool photo contest, I'll use the winnings for some new reagents!
If you are lowering the pH below ~7.6 that makes it rise faster as well. Try aiming for 7.8-ish with the acid and see if it slows down.
 
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If you are lowering the pH below ~7.6 that makes it rise faster as well. Try aiming for 7.8-ish with the acid and see if it slows down.
Yup. At 7.8 my CSI goes to positive which I am trying to avoid. I think a partial drain is in order. Fortunately I have baking soda and CyA on hand for the refill from my water softener so I have 0 CH when I do it. What's a good CH target? 400ppm?
 
You can get away with a partial drain if you plan to use soft water to refill with. That will likely take many regenerations. Be prepared for that.
 

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If they see you borrowing it, it may cost you many many thousands of dollars a year. Just sayin. 😁
It could but I'm the engineering manager and I'll just go ask the operations manager to borrow it for a spell! I work for a local water/sewer district. It's used to pump out water from pipe breaks and we have several. If it comes down to needing the last one, I'm on 24 hour emergency call anyhow except when on vacation and it's a 10 minute drive for me to bring it back. In other words, I'm not "borrowing" it as in "borrowing" it.. I'm just borrowing it! :p
 
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Baking soda increases TA. Your fill water has high TA.
I finally checked. The TA of my Fill water is 160ppm. CH is 175ppm out of the hose and 0ppm out of the softener.

I'm thinking I'll just manage my CSI for another season then drain and fill next year when it gets even further out of whack.

@ajw22 @Newdude

Is my desire to prevent scaling by keeping my CSI near 0 to -0.3 causing CH to rise in an never ending cycle? Am I eroding the plaster in my desire to not have a white ring on the waterline tile and white deposits on my water fall and spa spillway?
 
Is my desire to prevent scaling by keeping my CSI near 0 to -0.3 causing CH to rise in a never ending cycle?

No. That is the best target for your CSI.

Am I eroding the plaster in my desire to not have a white ring on the waterline tile and white deposits on my water fall and spa spillway?

When water evaporates on surfaces it deposits the minerals in it. You can’t stop that. That is a natural cycle in pools. Accept it, don’t fight it.
 
No. That is the best target for your CSI.



When water evaporates on surfaces it deposits the minerals in it. You can’t stop that. That is a natural cycle in pools. Accept it, don’t fight it.
Okay. So keep the CSI in the range I am trying to achieve or should I go to +0.3 ~ -0.3 range and accept the scaling so as to not erode the plaster? I'm wondering if my obsession with being slightly aggressive with CSI is to blame for the relatively high CH level in my pool. I should note that my water softener was broken for a spell so un-softened water was going through the auto-fill for several months but we've also had some pretty good rain in SoCal which should have countered this issue. I did notice my CyA dropped from 80 to 50 so you'd expect the CH to drop as well with water going out the overflow drain.
 
Okay. So keep the CSI in the range I am trying to achieve or should I go to +0.3 ~ -0.3 range and accept the scaling so as to not erode the plaster? I'm wondering if my obsession with being slightly aggressive with CSI is to blame for the relatively high CH level in my pool. I should note that my water softener was broken for a spell so un-softened water was going through the auto-fill for several months but we've also had some pretty good rain in SoCal which should have countered this issue. I did notice my CyA dropped from 80 to 50 so you'd expect the CH to drop as well with water going out the overflow drain.
You are asking this like you can lock in your CSI to a value.

CSI will bounce all over depending mostly on pH and water temperature.

Just put the CSI back into its 0 to -0.3 box when you find it out of the range.

there is no benefit to trying to micro manage the water chemistry. Just respond to what it is and make adjustments as necessary.
 
You are asking this like you can lock in your CSI to a value.

CSI will bounce all over depending mostly on pH and water temperature.

Just put the CSI back into its 0 to -0.3 box when you find it out of the range.

there is no benefit to trying to micro manage the water chemistry. Just respond to what it is and make adjustments as necessary.
True. I shoot for pH of 7.5 to 7.8 by adding MA several times a week. It generally drifts to 8.x relatively quickly.
 

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