Pool equipment relocation/replumbing suggestions.

Ordered two CMP hi-temp unions, two Jandy 4724, one Jandy 4716, one MPV.
Just to confirm, no other unions needed anywhere? Should be able to get Sch40 pipes, elbows, Tee, reducer from HD readily available.
 
OK on step #1
OK for Step #2. I have used these unions for the pump. Or you can use these type.
For step #3 I do not think you need any further unions in middle of pipe. When you are ready for SWCG you will need to cut pipe to put in the SWCG with its unions.
SWCGs can be installed either horizontally or vertical depending on space. I like horizontal but if you have limited space then vertical is fine. The Pentair IC SWCG should be installed on the vertical leg flowing upwards. Some other SWCGs can be installed on the downward flow leg If they have a separate flow switch that can be placed elsewhere. Just check the manual when you decide which SWCG you purchase.
For Step #4 - I have used reducers, elbows and tees from HD as well as straight pipe. Their unions are a little bulky but I do not think you need any of them anyway. Just ensure they are sch 40 because people just throw any fitting back in a box so don’t trust the box label. I always check the price label on the fitting itself.
oh one more thing, as you can see, the concrete pad is not level. Is it better to use gravel to put on top of the concrete to level it more? Not sure if the leaning of equipment would increase the strain on the pvc piping.

Also right now I use cinder block to raise the pump since the water from backyard does go that way. Is it still a solution to put a cinderblock on top of the gravel (not anchored down?)
 
Ordered two CMP hi-temp unions, two Jandy 4724, one Jandy 4716, one MPV.
Just to confirm, no other unions needed anywhere? Should be able to get Sch40 pipes, elbows, Tee, reducer from HD readily available.
Ok. What about the 3-port Jandy valve? Are you using the existing one?
Purchase more fittings than you need as you can always return to HD. Draw the whole plan out and identify every fitting or straight pipe and purchase additional fittings in case of any issues.
 
Ok. What about the 3-port Jandy valve? Are you using the existing one?
Purchase more fittings than you need as you can always return to HD. Draw the whole plan out and identify every fitting or straight pipe and purchase additional fittings in case of any issues.
Ordered another 4717 3way valve too. not using the old one.

Do you think using some gravel trying to level the pad a bit more would make any differences in terms of strains on the pipes? Also raising the pump a bit on the cinderblock, any better practice without having to do a lot more concrete work?
 
oh one more thing, as you can see, the concrete pad is not level. Is it better to use gravel to put on top of the concrete to level it more? Not sure if the leaning of equipment would increase the strain on the pvc piping.

Also right now I use cinder block to raise the pump since the water from backyard does go that way. Is it still a solution to put a cinderblock on top of the gravel (not anchored down?)
You should level the pad with sand and/or gravel. I had to go back to your original post to see the pictures again. It appears only the heater was on a cement pad and the filter and pump were on rocks/cinder blocks. A pump does not need to be bolted down unless local code demands it. Just ensure the cinder block is level and does not sink.
You could consider condenser pad - see link. It will help spread the weight of the pump over a larger area to reduce the risk of sinking.
 
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You should level the pad with sand and/or gravel. I had to go back to your original post to see the pictures again. It appears only the heater was on a cement pad and the filter and pump were on rocks/cinder blocks. A pump does not need to be bolted down unless local code demands it. Just ensure the cinder block is level and does not sink.
You could consider condenser pad - see link. It will help spread the weight of the pump over a larger area to reduce the risk of sinking.
The equipment and all pipes were actually on a concrete surface with timber surrounding them (back side is the shed, one side is the fence, two other sides single timber retaining wall). It is the lowestpoint at that side of my backyard, so water tends to go through there bringing dirt and leaves. The whole pad was slanted towards the privacy fence, therefore the cinderblock sitting on it was also not level. I put two pumps (including the booster pump) on cinderblocks to raise them up a bit so that even if backyard water accumulates at that corner during heavy rain, pump won't be flooded. Not sure if cinderblocks are the way to go after using layers of gravel on top of that concrete surface hoping to at least level it a bit more.
 
I'm in the process of replumbing. My equipment pad is a concrete slab and it seems to have some settlement over the years and I see a crack. Also it is sloped that the pump and filter and slightly tilted. My general contractor is suggesting dumping some gravel/crushed rock on top of it, at least to help bring the filter, pump back to a more level location. His concern was that the weight of the filter when tilted might put extra strains on the pipes and stuff.

That equipment pad is at a low point of my back yard, so water does go through there, not sure it was sloped for that reason or just because of the settling. My concern is the gravel and crushed stone directly on top of concrete might not be able to provide a stable surface at all.

Any suggestions? Thanks in adavance.
 
You should level the pad with sand and/or gravel. I had to go back to your original post to see the pictures again. It appears only the heater was on a cement pad and the filter and pump were on rocks/cinder blocks. A pump does not need to be bolted down unless local code demands it. Just ensure the cinder block is level and does not sink.
You could consider condenser pad - see link. It will help spread the weight of the pump over a larger area to reduce the risk of sinking.
My contractor was suggesting using layer of crushed rock on top of the existing concrete slab to help level the equipment (filter mostly) with concern of the extra strain on pipes with a tilted filter. But I feel that crushed rock on top of concrete would not provide stable surface and it might even worsen the situation (i.e. rocks underneath the filter loosen up and hollowed out the space, so filter is "hanging" on the pipes. I'm leaning towards leaving the slope alone. Any suggestions?
 

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I wouldn't expect loose gravel to stay put.

Concrete is cheap all things considered and if the equipment is all being replumbed anyway, it would only be a couple hours work and a day to harden to start over.
 
My contractor was suggesting using layer of crushed rock on top of the existing concrete slab to help level the equipment (filter mostly) with concern of the extra strain on pipes with a tilted filter. But I feel that crushed rock on top of concrete would not provide stable surface and it might even worsen the situation (i.e. rocks underneath the filter loosen up and hollowed out the space, so filter is "hanging" on the pipes. I'm leaning towards leaving the slope alone. Any suggestions?
I see you started a new post on the pad issues so will not address in this thread.
 
I wouldn't expect loose gravel to stay put.

Concrete is cheap all things considered and if the equipment is all being replumbed anyway, it would only be a couple hours work and a day to harden to start over.
Problem is that all the pipes coming up through this concrete pad (probably 20 some years old), it is more of a hassle to having to break the concrete and repour. I read the best practice is to not have pipes running through the concrete, but inherited this nontheless. I'm just simplifying the plubming and relocate pump, and filter for easier access now that I have a little bit more space with the shed out of the way and extra space created when building the patio.
 
I see you started a new post on the pad issues so will not address in this thread.
My thread is merged here but not much attraction (too long, I know).

Another beginner's question, just to make sure the plumbing direction is correct. Can you check if my understanding is correct based on this image?

MPV's union - pipe - DE filter's inlet/outlet, that's the connection right? I can't connect without the pipe in between.
Also, the DE filter's ports are not union, just directly insert the pipe with cement to connect right?

After a bit reading and checking out photos, it seems that the pre-plumbed mpv I bought (261152) should go directly into the DE filter's bulkheads (inlet/outlet)? Not sure if the size matches though (mpv kit uses 2" pipe, not too sure about the DE filter's bulkheads size).
 

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Sorry about putting this separate thread, but I just need a quick clairification on pentair MPV which port connects to pump and which goes to return side. Waiting online for quick answer, need to put everything together before it rains in a couple of hours. The instructions page in the package is not very helpful.

 
mpv-jpg.478373
 
Your signature shows a PAC FAB NS48 filter. Is that what you have? InyoPools shows the valves needed. The part number you state above is not listed.
 
Your signature shows a PAC FAB NS48 filter. Is that what you have? InyoPools shows the valves needed. The part number you state above is not listed.
I'm replacing it with a FNS plus 48, this should be the correct part. Did my photo list the right water direction? Don't want to plumb it backwards. Thanks alot
 

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