- Oct 8, 2020
- 572
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Oh you're a genius! Yes that's what it is. Thank you!
Having a pool built and need advice
- Thread starter voidpointer
- Start date
- Oct 8, 2020
- 572
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
The picture of the aqualink is that spare one I was talking about.
I connected it last year, but could never add it to the app because it was in service mode (I think). And when I look at my connected clients, I am not sure I'm seeing it anymore. There's a device showing up as a Linux PC that might be it, but not sure. I figured I needed to wait until we're out of service mode to try again.
- Oct 8, 2020
- 572
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Looks like I'm getting "pool school" tomorrow afternoon. Let's see what we can accomplish before then 
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,986
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Were you ever able to connect it via the web application from your PC? I did not review the whole thread did you say you used to have a PDA system?
This is how it will show up in your wireless connections:
iAquaLink-NSU
- Oct 8, 2020
- 572
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Yes I was last year, but I don't remember how I did it. All I remember is that "Add Location" in the app was the next step. But every time I entered that device code it would never work. After some googling I learned it can't be added while in service mode. I have a solid yellow LED on the wifi module so it should be connected. Should I open the panel and toggle between wired/wireless to reset it and set it up again?
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,986
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I would do a complete system reset if you are able. But not sure how that might affect the other Aqualink settings. Ask them at your pool school to set it up. For the record, I have never had to reset my antenna.
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,986
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Do yourself a favor and get a couple of the below to keep as spares. I lose one every 2 seasons.
- Oct 8, 2020
- 572
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Ok the PB must have done something to the aqualink because I was able to add it to the app now. Weird. I noticed last night that the pumps turn off so I think he put it on a schedule. Service mode light is still on so, no idea what the issue was last year.
- Oct 8, 2020
- 572
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
The aqualink wifi is weird. It wants to lock to a specific access point that is super far away. Connection isn't bad, but I have like 6 wifi access points in my house and I can't force it onto the one that is physically closer. Usually devices will roam to the best AP but I guess they lock to a certain channel during set up. Not a big deal but bothers me a litle bit, since I'm a network guy lol.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,374
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Swap the channels around on your APs so the 2.4G channel the Aqualink antenna wants is assigned to the closest AP.
What model APs do you use?
Do you have the iAqualink2 antenna or iAqualink3 antenna?
The iAQualink2 used a old dumb chipset that did not do WiFi well.
- Oct 8, 2020
- 572
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I assume the iaqualink3 because it says this in my equipment list:
"RS-PS6 AQUALINK RS6 + IQ30-RS IAQUALINK 3.0 UPGRADE KIT W/ RS-PS8 PCB"
Swapping the channels is a good idea, and I thought of that, but seemed like a big change for just one client... I'll probably do it unless you can tell me there's a different way to get it to roam to a different AP.
My APs are Unifi APs:
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,986
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
it doesn't need much bandwidth. If it connects and you can connect to it, leave it be. Keep in mind, when you are connecting to iAqualink with the app/browser, you are not connecting directly to your local Aqualink. You are connecting to Aqualink's cloud where your local Aqualink also has a connection. If your Internet is out, you will have limited connectivity. You can turn things on/off but you won't be able to change the programing.
- Oct 8, 2020
- 572
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
One thing I'll look into later is integration with Home Assistant. Maybe someone has an integration/addon that plugs into it via local API, then I can use it without internet, if needed. Thanks for letting me know.
- Oct 8, 2020
- 572
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Latest testing logs done this morning. The day after the PB maintenance guy came. TA is still high. Pool math says to decrease pH with acid and the aerate, but doesn't that mean I need to know how to use my equipment?
Also: Dumb question, but is the pool safe to swim in? Based on the chemical tests, seems like it is? But not sure.
Also: Dumb question, but is the pool safe to swim in? Based on the chemical tests, seems like it is? But not sure.
Last edited:
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,986
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
- Oct 8, 2020
- 572
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Yeah, but very slowly (based on the amount of water spilling over the spa). And the water features are off.
Just so you know- when you drop your pH with acid, it also pulls the TA down too. Some folks use this to their advantage when they know they need to drop the TA. Using fountains, spillovers, etc again after will help the pH rise again but the TA stays at the new lower level.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,374
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Your TA is fine. TA is the least important chemical reading. A three digit number does not mean it must be changed.
Force your TA when there is a reason it needs to be lower. Right now there is none.
Perfectly fine to swim.
- Oct 8, 2020
- 572
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
The chemicals section of the pool school states to lower it when pH raises too quickly or when CSI is too high. I hope I am remembering that right. My CSI right now is close to 0, but what about the first point? When do you personally decide to adjust TA?
Thanks for the learning opportunity
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,374
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You cannot judge if your pH is rising too quickly while your plaster is curing. The plaster curing chemical process causes pH to rise.
When your pH rises you will lower it with MA. That will also lower your TA. So you will lower your TA a bit anytime you lower your pH. You don't need to force it down. Just maintain your pH in the 7's and let your TA fall wherever it does.
In situations where you have high CH, like 600+, then lowering TA is a way to offset high CH or high water temperature and keep CSI below +0.3.
So forcing TA lower is a tool for solving problems you do not have yet.
Next season after your plaster is pretty well cured and you see where your water chemistry stabilizes you may want to coax your TA down some. For now it is fine.