Hey everyone, I’m installing an Intelliconnect system with a new Intellifli VSF pump. I had an Intermatic manual timer with freeze protection that I am replacing for simple automation. I don’t have any type of a panel by the equipment. Whoever installed the pool/equipment simply ran power from my main panel to an on/off switch by the timers and then to the timer box. The equipment wired directly to the timer box. With the Intelliconnect, everything has to be wired independently. So would I be ok in installing a 4” round box with 4 holes and connecting all the wires inside the box to run to each piece of equipment(intelliflo, Intelliconnect, and IC60 SWCG)? I’ve searched and seen others that have a sub panel with breakers near their equipment. Is that something that’s required? I’m thinking as long as everything has power, the Intelliconnect will control the pump and SWCG with the RS-485 data cable. Attached is the pic of what I’m thinking to tie everything together and the on/off switch I would be coming out of. Any advice? Thanks!
Installing Intelliconnect… have electrical question
- Thread starter BKennedy
- Start date
Initial questions are what size/type breaker is used in the main panel and what wire gauge was used to run outside.
Last edited:
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,484
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
NEC requires a maintenance disconnect by the pump. You need a CB or switch to cut power to the pump within sight if it.
Is that switch controlling two hot lines of a 240V circuit?
Is that switch controlling two hot lines of a 240V circuit?
It’s a 20A breaker and I believe it’s 12g wire. My main panel is about 15ft away inside the garage.
The switch is just one line of 240V. I believe it’s two hot wires and one ground. However, going into the Intelliconnect box, I just connected a hot wire to L1 and L2. It said to cap the ground wire.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,484
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
That switch is against code and leaves your pump dangerous to anyone working on it thinking the power is off because the switch is off.
For 240V circuits any switch must disconnect both hot wires.
The IntelliConnect box can be powered by 120V with one hot wire and a neutral line or 240V with two hot wires.
Are you describing the way you powered the Intelliconnect box or one of the relays? What specific screws are you talking about on the IntelliConnect?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,484
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- Dec 13, 2020
- 908
- Pool Size
- 19600
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I don't want to be a kill-joy, especially since I'm a diy'er myself. But the fact that you needed to ask this question in this forum is an indicator that you're over your head, at least now. For any lines voltage electrical work, thorough compliance with the NEC is needed to protect any person who comes in contact with the system in the future. In the worst case, even pool users could end up in danger. Think of it this way. Most of the stuff in the NEC is the result of some past dangerous situation, possibly somebody getting hurt. You need to take advantage of all that learning. Please either take on a personal and deep course of study for yourself or hire a reliable licensed electrician to - as a minimum - step through all details with you before you take this on.
jklocke
Gold Supporter
- May 12, 2020
- 104
- Pool Size
- 18000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Allen's got you covered way better than I can, but I want to make sure you know that your pump is not powered through the relays in the IntelliConnect box. It should be powered separately and connected to a GFCI CB.
Technically, I think your IC60 could be powered through one of the relays, although it makes more sense to just run an RS-485 from the IC power box to the IntelliConnect and you have relays available for lights or something else.
What is that box to the left of the switch in the picture you attached earlier? How does your IC60 get power now? More pictures could be helpful.
I also second what Gene said, make sure you understand all that is going on with your electricity, especially before you hook up a $1500+ pump!
Technically, I think your IC60 could be powered through one of the relays, although it makes more sense to just run an RS-485 from the IC power box to the IntelliConnect and you have relays available for lights or something else.
What is that box to the left of the switch in the picture you attached earlier? How does your IC60 get power now? More pictures could be helpful.
I also second what Gene said, make sure you understand all that is going on with your electricity, especially before you hook up a $1500+ pump!
The switch does disconnect both hot wires. When the switch is off there is no power to any of the equipment. I checked with a multimeter. I was describing the way I wired the Intelliconnect. I don’t have anything wired to the relays. The only thing being controlled by the Intelliconnect is the 011056 pump and my IC60, both of which will be connected by the RS-485 cable. I’m just trying to figure out how to get power to the pump and the SWCG. This picture shows my equipment and the way it’s set up. The only thing I have done is remove my old pump, my old booster pump and the Intermatic timer box. I basically just removed the timer box and wired the Intelliconnect in its place.
Attachments
I just posted a pic of what boxes I have. My ic60 and old single speed pump got power run to them from the old timer box. The Intelliconnect is obviously not made to power things, so I have to figure out how to get power to all 3 items. The power before I connected the Intelliconnect came from the On/off switch and went to the power box. The pump and ic60 wired in to the timer box.Allen's got you covered way better than I can, but I want to make sure you know that your pump is not powered through the relays in the IntelliConnect box. It should be powered separately and connected to a GFCI CB.
Technically, I think your IC60 could be powered through one of the relays, although it makes more sense to just run an RS-485 from the IC power box to the IntelliConnect and you have relays available for lights or something else.
What is that box to the left of the switch in the picture you attached earlier? How does your IC60 get power now? More pictures could be helpful.
I also second what Gene said, make sure you understand all that is going on with your electricity, especially before you hook up a $1500+ pump!
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,484
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I just bought a box that I was planning on using. I would bring the wires from the on/off switch down to the junction box and then tie into them and run power straight down to the pump. Then connect the SWCG coming out the right side of the box and then power to the Intelliconnect from the left side of the box.I don't see the junction box with the switch that you want to connect into....
Attachments
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,484
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,484
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
That will work if the CB is a 20A GFCI CB and all wires are 12AWG THHN/THWN.
Yes, I just bought wires as well and they are 12awg thhn. The breaker that’s currently on there is not gfci, I don’t believe. I do plan on changing the breaker though.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,484
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Wire should be dual rated THHN/THWN. The THWN rating is for outdoor wet applications.
Yes, I guess it is rated for both. Another thing that concerns me as I am diving in to this project is that my central a/c unit and my oven/range are in the same breaker. I am thinking once I get the pool parts done, I am going to have an electrician come and add a seperate gfci breaker just for the pool equipment.
Attachments
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,484
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Yes it is.
That circuit is overloaded and not safe that way.
I am surprised you can have a central a/c unit on a 20 amp CB. AC units need 50-60A CBs. I think there is something you are confused with. Oven/ranges also need more then 20 amps.
You need to bring in an electrician before you use the pool circuit.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,484
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Do you also have a spool of green 12AWG THWN wire for the ground wire?
You should be running two hot wires which can be black or red and a green ground wire to each device for a 240V circuit.
You should be running two hot wires which can be black or red and a green ground wire to each device for a 240V circuit.