Updated Equipment Pad Critique Requested

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Taylor1584

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LifeTime Supporter
May 13, 2011
346
NW Arkansas
Pool Size
12000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I had the pump replaced, added SWG with IntelliCenter, added heater bypass and check valve, and had the plumbing cleaned up a bit. They are almost done, kit was missing some actuators, need to hang High Power Wireless Link Kit(missing a piece). The pad looks so much neater and the pump is very quiet.

Does the layout look good? Do I, should I have an actuator on the heater bypass? There is one installed between the bubbler and returns and the missing one will go between the main drain and the skimmers. They are coming back with the missing pieces and make sure there are no leaks. I do see one at the pump.

Thanks for looking over the pictures.
Christine
 

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My thought is there’s a ton of leverage following the SWG and back. I would have swept that run to ride the floor of the pad and back up to the heater. As it stands, youll want a support piece to hold that side up.
 
Taylor,

Keep in mind the stock IntelliCenter can only control two "user programable" actuators. The other two are restricted for use and are only used to switch between the Pool mode and the Spa mode.

Why would you want to put an actuator on the Main Drain/Skimmer valve? Once you set it, you just normally just leave it.

Having an actuator on the heater by-pass makes perfect sense. Another good use would be to control any water features.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Taylor1584 said:
I had the pump replaced, added SWG with IntelliCenter, added heater bypass and check valve, and had the plumbing cleaned up a bit. They are almost done, kit was missing some actuators, need to hang High Power Wireless Link Kit(missing a piece). The pad looks so much neater and the pump is very quiet.

Does the layout look good? Do I, should I have an actuator on the heater bypass? There is one installed between the bubbler and returns and the missing one will go between the main drain and the skimmers. They are coming back with the missing pieces and make sure there are no leaks. I do see one at the pump.

Thanks for looking over the pictures.
Christine
Click to expand...
Your should replace the fittings in and out of the pump with hi-temp pump unions. The ones you have are 1.) standard PVC, 2.) threaded too far into the pump, 3.) will leak if you start using the heater to heat your spa. Standard PVC starts to soften at about 90 degrees. You generally heat a spa to over 100.
 
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Taylor,

While I agree that DWV fitting should not be used, it is not really that big of a deal.

There are thousands of pools that have DWV fittings, and they all work just fine. I have one that I did myself, before I knew it was wrong. :(

It makes sense to do it right to begin with, but I would never rip an operating system apart just to replace DWV fittings. There is just not that much pressure in pool plumbing that it is going to be a major issue. The main problem is if the PVC is not cut square, then you have less glue surface. I suggest that if you have a good glue joint, that you will never know if the fitting is DWV or not.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
Taylor,

Keep in mind the stock IntelliCenter can only control two "user programable" actuators. The other two are restricted for use and are only used to switch between the Pool mode and the Spa mode.

Why would you want to put an actuator on the Main Drain/Skimmer valve? Once you set it, you just normally just leave it.

Having an actuator on the heater by-pass makes perfect sense. Another good use would be to control any water features.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
I think I understand, put one on the heater bypass. There is one installed on the bubbler.
tgrinchy said:
My thought is there’s a ton of leverage following the SWG and back. I would have swept that run to ride the floor of the pad and back up to the heater. As it stands, youll want a support piece to hold that side up.
Click to expand...
The heater maybe be replaced within the next year, zi think that is why he plumbed it that way.
 
1poolman1 said:
Your should replace the fittings in and out of the pump with hi-temp pump unions. The ones you have are 1.) standard PVC, 2.) threaded too far into the pump, 3.) will leak if you start using the heater to heat your spa. Standard PVC starts to soften at about 90 degrees. You generally heat a spa to over 100.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip. I don't have a spa, the heater only heats the pool, tho I have been know to heat above 90 to get more pool time in the shoulder season. I will ask to have the pump unions change out to hi-temp pump unions.
 

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Jimrahbe said:
It is beyond believe how anyone could install a $2,000 dollar pump without out Pump Unions.

They make the job much easier and leak proof.

Penny wise and pound foolish in my opinion.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
I asked for unions as I want to put the pump and SWG in the garage for the winter. Suggested above were Hi-Temp pump unions which I will ask them to put in.
 
1poolman1 said:
Your should replace the fittings in and out of the pump with hi-temp pump unions. The ones you have are 1.) standard PVC, 2.) threaded too far into the pump, 3.) will leak if you start using the heater to heat your spa. Standard PVC starts to soften at about 90 degrees. You generally heat a spa to over 100.
Click to expand...
When you say 2. threaded too far into the pump, does that mean the union is too close to the pump. Taking the advice to put in hi-temp pump unions.
 
Taylor,

What you have are "Home Depot" unions. You can't buy "pump unions" at Home Depot.

They look like this and have an O-ring on the end that is threaded into the pump. The O-Ring prevents the leaks that we often see at the normal PVC threaded connections.


Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Taylor1584 said:
I don't know what DWV fitting are?
Click to expand...
DWV= Drain Waste, and Vent. They aren't designed to handle pressure. However, as Jim pointed out, if its working its fine.

The unions are more of a concern as part of the energy from the pump moving the water is converted to heat.
 
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Jimrahbe said:
Taylor,

What you have are "Home Depot" unions. You can't buy "pump unions" at Home Depot.

They look like this and have an O-ring on the end that is threaded into the pump. The O-Ring prevents the leaks that we often see at the normal PVC threaded connections.


Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the link. I will request those. Do I need any special kind of unions for the SWG. I want to be able to remove it in the winter.
Thanks,
Christine
 
W.J.Christy said:
DWV= Drain Waste, and Vent. They aren't designed to handle pressure. However, as Jim pointed out, if its working its fine.

The unions are more of a concern as part of the energy from the pump moving the water is converted to heat.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the explanation.
Christine
 
OK to sum up.
add 2nd actuator to heater bypass
change to pump unions as shown in link above(hi-temp pump unions)
SWG check to see if SWG came with unions and if they were used.
When heater is changed out, move plumbing lower to ground.

Remaining questions
I do not understand Post #12 about the threaded too far into the pump. What is the problem and how should it be done?
Is the SWG in the right place, I read it needs so much piping before and after. Thoughts?
 

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