And one more question, what is High Power Wireless Link Kit? I guess it goes with the IntelliCenter?
Updated Equipment Pad Critique Requested
- Thread starter Taylor1584
- Start date
A pump union will seal with an O ring and not thread sealant, they are tightened as far as they can be threaded in. When a standard threaded fitting is used, there should be about 3-5 threads showing after it is properly sealed and tightened. Threaded fittings and receptacles are tapered, essentially a wedge. While it doesn't happen much anymore, tightening a fitting that far into a pump has been seen to damage the pump. It does damage the fitting.
Lake Placid
In The Industry
- May 27, 2021
- 674
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
In your side view picture of your SWG (3rd pic) you can see the black Pentair supplied unions were installed. Those are the threaded couplings the SWG uses to insert into and tighten into the pipe.
RoyR
Bronze Supporter
Thanks for the information. I just went out to see what you indicated. It's nice to have so much shared here at TFP.
Any suggestion on location of the High Power Wireless Link Kit. I think there is an outside and inside piece. I did read the instruction manual but it's way over my head.
I was wondering about that. do you have a suggestion how it should be. Could it come straight back from the heater bypass to SWG and then it would need 1 or 2 90s to get to the returns.
Lake Placid
In The Industry
- May 27, 2021
- 674
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Pentair recommends a 12-18” straight run of pipe before the cell for best flow sensing. You could move it closer to the heater bypass to accomplish that and then plumb to the return feed as necessary. In practicality Pentair also recommends a vertical installation. Are these conditions always met in the real world? No. Does the cell still work? Yes. I’ve got a cell in a horizontal installation with no issues. Others have cells installed without the straight run of pipe and have no issues. You could leave it after discussion with the installer indicating that if there IS a flow issue after startup due to the install, it needs to be corrected.
Good points. My last cell, Hayward in previous inherited pool, was horizontal, and worked fine, at least I thought it did. Will keep an eye on it. Also, will discuss with installer.
Updates and questions.
The recommended hi-temp pump unions were installed and I have operation of everything from my phone, I think.
Question, the installer set the SWG at 50%, to my already chlorinated pool, CL about 8, it was very hot and sunny. I tested in 48 hours, and pool Cl was 17. Immediately, turned off SWG, and waited, testing every couple of days. Got it down to 7 and set SWG at 10%. Now 2 days later Cl is at 10, no CC. Water is at 70.
My first question, do I turn off The SWG again and let it drift to 5-6 and then turn back on at 10%, can I go to lower than 10%? The SWG is Pentair 40, pool is about 13-13,500 gallons. Also, I turn the pump Intelliflo VSF low say 800 RPM Sanitizer Output lights all are blinking GREEN. The SWG does show GREEN flow light thought. Is SWG just telling me that it is producing a very minimum output?
Secondly, I am trying to set schedules where there is higher RPM for skimming early morning and late afternoon, one to run the bubbler twice a day for a short period, and overnight lower RPM just for circulation.
1- 7 AM Early morning Higher RPM for skimming about 1 hour
2-Morning circulation RPM ?
3-Bubbler 20 minutes 10am-10:20am RPM?
4-Circulation till 5 PM RPM?
5-Bubbler 20 min. 5P<-5:20PM
6-end of day skimming about 1 hour HIgher RPM?
7-after skimming, overnight to 7 am.
Am I overcomplicating this? The pump is so much quieter and I would really like to take advantage of using the lower RPM and electric use to circulate and chlorinate. Running it higher than necessary seems wasteful.
Christine
I
The recommended hi-temp pump unions were installed and I have operation of everything from my phone, I think.
Question, the installer set the SWG at 50%, to my already chlorinated pool, CL about 8, it was very hot and sunny. I tested in 48 hours, and pool Cl was 17. Immediately, turned off SWG, and waited, testing every couple of days. Got it down to 7 and set SWG at 10%. Now 2 days later Cl is at 10, no CC. Water is at 70.
My first question, do I turn off The SWG again and let it drift to 5-6 and then turn back on at 10%, can I go to lower than 10%? The SWG is Pentair 40, pool is about 13-13,500 gallons. Also, I turn the pump Intelliflo VSF low say 800 RPM Sanitizer Output lights all are blinking GREEN. The SWG does show GREEN flow light thought. Is SWG just telling me that it is producing a very minimum output?
Secondly, I am trying to set schedules where there is higher RPM for skimming early morning and late afternoon, one to run the bubbler twice a day for a short period, and overnight lower RPM just for circulation.
1- 7 AM Early morning Higher RPM for skimming about 1 hour
2-Morning circulation RPM ?
3-Bubbler 20 minutes 10am-10:20am RPM?
4-Circulation till 5 PM RPM?
5-Bubbler 20 min. 5P<-5:20PM
6-end of day skimming about 1 hour HIgher RPM?
7-after skimming, overnight to 7 am.
Am I overcomplicating this? The pump is so much quieter and I would really like to take advantage of using the lower RPM and electric use to circulate and chlorinate. Running it higher than necessary seems wasteful.
Christine
I
Lake Placid
In The Industry
- May 27, 2021
- 674
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Christine exactly how are the percentage of production lights blinking? If they are scrolling from left to right this indicates your cell is in boost mode. Blinking lights indicate your cell is producing between 2% and 10% of production If you’ve got the cell set that low. 1 light indicates 2%, 2 lights indicate 4%, 3 lights 6%, 4 lights 8%, and 5 lights 10%.
Obviously you can set the cell lower than 10% if you need to to get the appropriate production of chlorine for your CYA level. If you’re finding your production is too high even set at low levels, adjust your pump run time to lower production levels.
As far as scheduling your pump, you only need to run the pump for two reasons. 1 to achieve ideal chlorine production and 2 to achieve the amount of skimming you desire. Some folks run low levels 24/7, others schedule higher run rpm for periods of time and lower rpm for periods of time. You’ll just need to play with it to find a sweet spot that you’re happy with.
Obviously you can set the cell lower than 10% if you need to to get the appropriate production of chlorine for your CYA level. If you’re finding your production is too high even set at low levels, adjust your pump run time to lower production levels.
As far as scheduling your pump, you only need to run the pump for two reasons. 1 to achieve ideal chlorine production and 2 to achieve the amount of skimming you desire. Some folks run low levels 24/7, others schedule higher run rpm for periods of time and lower rpm for periods of time. You’ll just need to play with it to find a sweet spot that you’re happy with.
Christine,
I run my pump 24/7 mostly at 1200 RPM. I do this because it allows me to generate a little chlorine all the time and to skim all the time.
I have three other speeds that is use. Skim low at 1500, Skim High at 2000 and Waterfall at 2800.
I still use Skim low a couple of times a day, but find that running 24/7 means that I don't really 'need' to change speeds to skim well. I now only use Skim high to make the water swirl a little more when we are using our pool floats. I only use Waterfall when I run the waterfall, which is not very often.
Running 24/7 is not a requirement, but I find it the best way for me to run my pump. My cost to do this is less than $20 bucks a month and my pump is over 8 years old. Newer VS pump cost even less to run.
I think maybe you did two things at once, because pump speed should not make your SWCG's output lights flash. Pump speed will only affect the flow light.
So, yes, you are making things harder than they need to be, but it is your pool, and you should set it up and run it the way you want. The only way to do that is to experiment with various options or run times.
Thanks,
Jim R.
I run my pump 24/7 mostly at 1200 RPM. I do this because it allows me to generate a little chlorine all the time and to skim all the time.
I have three other speeds that is use. Skim low at 1500, Skim High at 2000 and Waterfall at 2800.
I still use Skim low a couple of times a day, but find that running 24/7 means that I don't really 'need' to change speeds to skim well. I now only use Skim high to make the water swirl a little more when we are using our pool floats. I only use Waterfall when I run the waterfall, which is not very often.
Running 24/7 is not a requirement, but I find it the best way for me to run my pump. My cost to do this is less than $20 bucks a month and my pump is over 8 years old. Newer VS pump cost even less to run.
I think maybe you did two things at once, because pump speed should not make your SWCG's output lights flash. Pump speed will only affect the flow light.
So, yes, you are making things harder than they need to be, but it is your pool, and you should set it up and run it the way you want. The only way to do that is to experiment with various options or run times.
Thanks,
Jim R.