Circupool RJ 30+ Problems

djdonte

Well-known member
Mar 25, 2019
554
Houston, TX
Pool Size
11300
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-30 Plus
I had my cell replaced early this year due to the cell connection error others have reported. Yesterday while swimming I noticed my water did not have that normal “sparkle” but chalked it up to the cloudy weather. Today I did my normal chemical checks and ZERO FC. I checked the cell a few times today and one time it said low salt, another it had the cell maint and lo salt lights on. In all cases it was still giving amps and volts, and I could see the cell generating tiny bubbles. After restarting, it went back to “generate” but the cell is reporting my salt to be 2800 when my tests show 3800 and water temp at 68 when it is around 15-30 degrees more than that. I don’t trust this thing. My CYA is 80 and other results were normal. I am going to call DSP this week but does anyone have any ideas? For now I am going to dump a few gallons of 10 percent and put some tabs in.
 
Just the cell. DSP said I needed an adapter cord, but they were out of stock so they shipped me a new salt cell until they got it in. I was supposed to ship the new cell back when I got an adapter but I never heard back even after reminding them months later.
 
I just went back out there and it had the same cell maint and low salt error light. It was not generating. I went ahead and turned off the cell and dumped 6 gallon of bleach in. Sigh I guess I’m in SLAM mode now.
 
I guess I’m in SLAM mode now.
That's a bummer. You might make note and tell us the volts and amps readings you are observing when the unit is in generating mode. But I'm kind of wondering based on some of your notes above if the module isn't part of the problem? :scratch:
 
Thanks I will check the amps and volts for when I call DSP but everything looks normal for the 10-15 min it actually works on startup, including small bubbles coming off of the cell.
 
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Dj
I have many RJ's in the field but only one giving me troubles similar to yours. I had sent in both the controller and the cell separately and they did find in the controller something that needed replacement at the pro-rated cost.
TRY THE FOLLOWING
While the controller is running and hanging on the wall bracket press the center bottom button till you see actual salinity on the screen now this part sounds weird but it worked for me many times, grab the controller sides mid section between the palms of your hands while your left hand is firmly against the controller use the right plam and give a solid jolt or two "all while the salinity mentioned above is visible". You may see the salinity all of a sudden jump up to where it should be. I wish I have a video clip but don't think I've ever taken one. I'll look ....
 
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Lol that sounds wild…. Not sure I want to do that and get blamed by DSP for messing it up. They were helpful last time but ONLY after I proved to them everything Dang thing else was not the issue with pool store test results and otherwise. I’m going to call them tomorrow morning first. I am local to them to replacement parts usually take one day to arrive.
 
Lol that sounds wild…. Not sure I want to do that and get blamed by DSP for messing it up. They were helpful last time but ONLY after I proved to them everything Dang thing else was not the issue with pool store test results and otherwise. I’m going to call them tomorrow morning first. I am local to them to replacement parts usually take one day to arrive.
You will not be hurting anything just give it a go.
 
Not this hard. :)

 

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I had very similar controller issues as you. A few weeks ago I installed the adapter to fix the cell connection error. Then my controller was saying low salt, and off by 1000ppm. Then it started turning off with low salt flashing and cell maintenance indicator. First I wanted to clean the cell and start from there. I bought the cell cleaning stand end. Once I disconnected the cell I could see some mineral build up on the plates. I followed the manual and the acid wash worked wonders. Now my controller is reading the salt levels accurately.
 
So the shake method did not work. I spoke with DSP today and they are concerned that my volt/amp numbers are about half what they should be (12.5v/0.5A), which could be caused by the controller only getting 120v. They want me to check the electrical connection to make sure they are tight and getting 220v. Its wired to the same screws as the motor inside the timer so I find it hard to believe the connection suddenly went bad or there is no longer 220. In any case I'll check it out when I get home. He also mentioned cleaning the cell but the cell is only a few months old and looks good. My CH is not out of whack either and never has been. Is there anything available from a big box store to plug the cell for cleaning or do I need to order the cleaning stand from DSP?

Also, do you think I will be ok using pucks with a CYA of 70 once I get done slamming? I really dont want to lug bleach home anymore after this slam. I cant believe how expensive it is now. I have a bucket of tabs leftover from my replaster last year.
 
Is there anything available from a big box store to plug the cell for cleaning or do I need to order the cleaning stand from DSP?
You might be able to find an end cap locally.

do you think I will be ok using pucks with a CYA of 70 once I get done slamming?
I would avoid them if possible. Unless we get some rain soon to where you could lower the water level in advance and fill up with fresh stuff, your CYA will increase quickly.
 
Do you see any scaling in the cell - it's sometimes hard to see unless empty? Your positive CSI numbers indicate that might be a possibility.
I let my CSI slip a bit and end up with some scale. The physical scale caused a little bridging between plates, and got it all out of whack. An hour with a water hose and bamboo skewers, and it was back to fairly clean and working well.
 
Do you see any scaling in the cell - it's sometimes hard to see unless empty? Your positive CSI numbers indicate that might be a possibility.
I let my CSI slip a bit and end up with some scale. The physical scale caused a little bridging between plates, and got it all out of whack. An hour with a water hose and bamboo skewers, and it was back to fairly clean and working well.
Not that I can see, but I will remove it and check since I am not using the cell anyway. The numbers on my pool math aren't really accurate at the moment as the pH is 7.6 not 8.2 giving me a CSI of about -.12. However I have been trying to keep it slightly positive since the replaster. I just find it hard to believe scale formed in a few months when the last cell ran for almost two years with no notable scale.
 
Do you see any scaling in the cell - it's sometimes hard to see unless empty? Your positive CSI numbers indicate that might be a possibility.
I let my CSI slip a bit and end up with some scale. The physical scale caused a little bridging between plates, and got it all out of whack. An hour with a water hose and bamboo skewers, and it was back to fairly clean and working well.
Well I think you are right. Is there a way to clean this without waiting for that cleaning plug to arrive? How did this happen in 6ish months. I tried a jet from a garden hose and it didn’t do much.
 

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I would just wait for the cleaning plug. I bought mine on Amazon and got it pretty quick. The 4 to 1 acid wash worked really good, fast and easy for me. The plates looked new afterwards, and it cleaned the whole cell as well. You can dip it in a bucket with the acid mix too.

I was able to limp along by manually powering off/on if the controller shut off, while I waited for the plug.
 

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