New Construction Started - Willis, TX (north of Houston)

That's a lot of pipe!
That's what she... never mind. ;^)

Seriously though, installing the 3" and 4" lines had to have had the plumbers second guessing the method to the madness! I mandated sweep elbows and/or 45° els on wherever possible until they got to the pad.
 
9/6/22
It’s a bird. It’s a plane. It’s… the PB!

After several various delays over 41 working days, construction has resumed with the installation of waterline tile w/Hydroban.

I’m happy to report, after months of waiting, all three of the Pentair 3HP XF pumps have finally been delivered.

For those keeping score at home, we’re 96 calendar days in after breaking ground. As I’ve learned during this process, it’s full speed (aka all gas, no brakes, if you catch my drift…) or full stop.
 

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Infinity Edge plumbing (revised):

View attachment 427352

Thanks, just wanted to ensure you were referring to the 2-way on the bypass and not the 3-way I originally had on the plan. Water feature plumbing is forth coming.

I watched a couple of new videos as well as rewatched a couple of others with regards to the Intellicenter. One of the "new' videos mentioned some improvements for 2022 (new/better antenna, a new RS 45 cable and Intellisync - not sure that's new and/or improved). I'm starting to get re-engaged with regards to the controller and will circle back in the thread to that topic.
How beneficial will an actuator or Intellivalve be on the bypass? Will it be operated often/regularly enough to warrant automation for ease of use? The project manager doesn't see the need, in his opinion.
 
Will it be operated often/regularly enough to warrant automation for ease of use?
That's really up to you if you want it to be automated or not.

It depends on how often you would open the bypass and if you want to do it manually or if you want it automated.

Your automation also might not support the total number of actuators.

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It depends on how often you would open the bypass and if you want to do it manually or if you want it automated.

Please re-educate me. Isn't the main reason for the bypass line to be able to bypass the heater to create greater flow?
 
Has the waterline tile been installed correctly? The masonry crew filled in/built up the bottom of the skimmer inlets with leveling compound. This effectively pushed up the level of the water line tile ~1 inch above the beam. They then filled in/built up the beam with leveling compound and installed the coping at the height of the water line tile. This effectively rendered the coping 1" higher than the existing patio. It seems to me the waterline tile should've been installed at the original level of the skimmer inlet and fill-in water tile installed at the top of the inlet. I'm due to meet with the PM this am. I don't know what the solution is but wonder whether this may need to be removed and reinstalled?
 

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There are multiple things to consider when setting levels including the surrounding yard, house, the infinity weir edge, the skimmer, decks, coping etc.

Everything needs to be done exactly right and tolerances are tight for everything.

The weir wall top edge sets the water height and that determines where the water hits the skimmer.

Everything has to reference against everything else with very little margin for error.

It’s too complicated to do looking at pictures.
 

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As a “silver lining” type thought and just thinking about my own build, I think you want the coping some distance higher than the existing patio to prevent rain and crud from flowing from the patio into the pool. My foggy recollection is something between 1/8“ to 1/4” per ft (or is it an inch per 10’ — can’t remember). Is the plan to adjust the patio stones so it sort of gently slopes up to the coping and thus away from the pool? Would seem it has to since the coping is higher?
 
There are multiple things to consider when setting levels including the surrounding yard, house, the infinity weir edge, the skimmer, decks, coping etc.

Everything needs to be done exactly right and tolerances are tight for everything.

The weir wall top edge sets the water height and that determines where the water hits the skimmer.

Everything has to reference against everything else with very little margin for error.

It’s too complicated to do looking at pictures.
Agreed. The basis of the construction was based on the patio height/elevation.

After consulting with the PM and Masonry supervisor, the problem stems from the beam being installed too high by the gunite company. However the masonry crew should've alerted the pool builder of the issue when they encountered it.

Could be some major rework in the cards. Stay tuned.
 
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As a “silver lining” type thought and just thinking about my own build, I think you want the coping some distance higher than the existing patio to prevent rain and crud from flowing from the patio into the pool. My foggy recollection is something between 1/8“ to 1/4” per ft (or is it an inch per 10’ — can’t remember). Is the plan to adjust the patio stones so it sort of gently slopes up to the coping and thus away from the pool? Would seem it has to since the coping is higher?
Agreed. I expected a slight slope but not an 1" height difference over a span of 2'.
 
9/15/22
The Modern Method Gunite SME (aka gunite whisperer) was out along with the PB's PM today. It seems the waterline tile was not installed exactly level and the pool beam is also not exactly level and it will have to be shaved ~3/4" in some areas. All the installed waterline tile and coping will have to be removed and reinstalled after the shaving is completed.

Equipment pad plumbing is to take place on Saturday.

To that end, I am wondering if I can tweak the designs a bit. I am considering foregoing automation for the 3-way valve after the filter and simply operate it manually. Thoughts?

1663256473619.png
 
The 3-way after the filter should be Pentair 263056 with an intellivalve so that you get the automatic bypass.
I think that your system comes with 2 IntelliValves.

So, you just need a third for the heater bypass.

The two that come with the system are used to select Pool or Spa mode.

@JamesW
Reviewing the thread, you recommended using an Intellivalve for the heater bypass in order to get the automatic bypass. Can you clarify/re-educate me, please?
 
Now that that has been cleared up. Next question with regards to the filter pump system. I have Intellivalves earmarked for the inlet to the pump and returns. In terms of controllability could a valve actuator be used on one, the other or both over the Intellivalve which offers different set points?

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In terms of controllability could a valve actuator be used on one, the other or both over the Intellivalve which offers different set points?
Assuming you just want open and closed, then a regular actuator can be used.

An Intellivalve actuator and a regular actuator are basically the same thing and they work the same way.

The only real difference is that setting the start and stop points is easier with the Intellivalve actuator.
 

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