Pentair IC60 Flow Switch keeps going bad

[BWC]

I bought a house several months ago that had an existing Pentair IC60 system with a broken Flow Switch. The switch's metal tang with the contact magnet was broken off/missing. I've replaced the Flow Switch six times with those from various manufacturers, including Pentair, only to have them each fail after a few days or at most two weeks. The IC60 only has power when the pump is running. Shorting the Red/Black wires together turns the Flow Light and, after running for a short period, the Slat Level light Green. So I have two questions: First, why does the tang keep breaking off? Could the flow through the IC60 be too strong causing the tang to fail due to metal fatigue? Second, since the unit is powered on only when the pump is running, what's the harm in leaving a bad switch in place (plugging the hole) and simply shorting the Red/Black wires together so the unit generates Chlorine while the pump is running?
Thank you

 

[Jimrahbe]

BWC,

I have three IC40's that have been running for a "total" of over 25 years and have had one broken flow switch. I am talking about where the metal switch actually breaks. Something is wrong with your set up.. Please show us some pics.

The flow switch is a safety device, so shorting it is a short-sighted idea. If the cell gets power when the pump is not running it can actually explode. It does not happen often, but as seen here on TFP, does happen.

In your case, when happens when your single speed pump blows a cap and does not start? Your cell would have power, but there would be no water flow.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[wireform]

Get some pictures of the equipment pad as it sounds like there's other possible reasons this keeps happening. As Jim stated I know of many running years and not a hitch.

 

[BWC]

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the reply.

Attached are a few pictures of the installation.

I've read similar type warnings in several threads in this forum. I've been an electrician and an electronics technician for almost 50 years and can say that the flow switch is most definitely not a safety device. It is a simple on/off switch. Assuming it is installed and positioned correctly as indicated by the flow markings, the flow of water will press the tang into the body of the switch, held in position by the weak magnet attached to the tang. Making the connection causes the Flow light to go Green, telling the IC60 there's is sufficient flow to begin making Chlorine. When the flow of water stops, the magnet is unable to hold the tang in the closed position and the tang pulls away from the body of the switch, opening the connection. I've confirmed this using a multimeter and a good switch.

As stated in my initial post, power is applied to the IC60 only when the single speed pump is running, so there is no danger of it continuing to "cook" when the pump isn't running, and possibly exploding, when the black/red wires are shorted or twisted together.

The switches are failing because the tang is breaking off. The question is why? It could be because I'm unlucky and getting defective switches from a variety of sources which is doubtful. The only thing that comes immediately to mind that could keep causing this problem is that the flow of water across the switch is somehow too great, which may be causing the tang to cavitate and break off due to metal fatigue. I've also considered the possibility that the pool chemicals are so out of whack that they're eating into the metal causing it to fail, but all chemicals are well within prescribed limits. I'm flummoxed and reaching out to idenyify other possible causes of switch failure....

Thanks again

 

[mknauss]

The Installation manual states a need for 12" of straight pipe prior to the flow switch. With a VS pump installation, we know that is likely not necessary as the flow rates are much lower. So you state a single speed pump. What size is that? If the flow rate is high enough, the tube turn just before the flow switch could be causing a turbulent flow and that is failing the metal tang.

FYI -- the model is an IC40, thought that matters not to your issue.

 

[mknauss]

Also, have you been putting any trichlor in the tube feeder?

 

[BWC]

Here's a couple more pictures showing the complete installation. Yes it's pretty busy with allot going on....

 

[mknauss]

All three pumps have control pads. Are you sure they are all single speed pumps?

 

[BWC]

The Installation manual states a need for 12" of straight pipe prior to the flow switch. With a VS pump installation, we know that is likely not necessary as the flow rates are much lower. So you state a single speed pump. What size is that? If the flow rate is high enough, the tube turn just before the flow switch could be causing a turbulent flow and that is failing the metal tang.

FYI -- the model is an IC40, thought that matters not to your issue.

Thanks for the IC40/60 clarification. The pump is running at 3450RPM, which is fairly high. At best, there's 4" of straight before entering the switch, so your thought that flow speed and the short run could be causing turbulence causing the switch tang to fail.

 

[mknauss]

As I said, we typically do not see a big deal about that distance being needed, but the majority of ICXX installations have VS pumps with automation. Thus, the pumps are run at far lower rates.
It appears you have VS pumps, why run them at full speed?

 

[BWC]

All three pumps have control pads. Are you sure they are all single speed pumps?

They are variable but programmed to run at single speeds, didn't want to confuse things but one is for the main pool and is power sync'd to the IC40, the other two are for Spa and a Water feature and the IC40 is not powered when they're running individually.

 

[mknauss]

Do you have automation? It appears the RS485 cable in one of the pumps I see.

I run my pump at 1500 rpm. Why do you need to run the pumps at full speed?

 

[BWC]

As I said, we typically do not see a big deal about that distance being needed, but the majority of ICXX installations have VS pumps with automation. Thus, the pumps are run at far lower rates.
It appears you have VS pumps, why run them at full speed?

Don't know why they're programmed to run at high speed. The pool was professionally maintained before I bought the house and that's just the way they came. Wouldn't surprise me that the broken switch I found after moving in had been broken for quite some time. Now that you've most likely hit on the cause of switch failure, I can see about reducing pump speed to 1850rpm and hope that solves the problem.

 

[mknauss]

If you give us a complete listing of your pool and equipment by filling out your signature, it really helps us help you.

Unless you have an infloor cleaning system, your RPM should be able to be dropped below even 1850 rpm, but you will have to test that out.

 

[Newdude]

This answer can play a big part in it

Also, have you been putting any trichlor in the tube feeder?

 

[BWC]

If you give us a complete listing of your pool and equipment by filling out your signature, it really helps us help you.

Unless you have an infloor cleaning system, your RPM should be able to be dropped below even 1850 rpm, but you will have to test that out.

Both the main pool and the spa have infloor cleaning. The spa also is an infinity edge if that makes a difference. I'm saying 1850 simply b/c with the pump running it's program I can manually kick it down to 1850. If I switch the pump into the Service there is a 1500 that can be selected. I'll need to break out the manual to figure out how to adjust the programmed speed down a notch or two.

 

[mknauss]

So the floor cleaning comes from the line through the IC?

What automation do you have?

 

[BWC]

This answer can play a big part in it

No tabs in the tube. Seems to be redundant, redundant if the IC40 is working as it should. Given the color difference in the IC40 and tubing (which is painted) I'm speculating that the IC40 was installed at a later date, but the tube not removed for some reason.

 

[BWC]

So the floor cleaning comes from the line through the IC?

What automation do you have?

From charting the various water flows and automated valve settings, the main pool's infloor cleaning does go through the IC, the Spa I'm not so sure. When you're asking what automation, are you meaning the overall Pentair system? If you're speaking something else I'll likely fall back on to an old acronym, BTFOOM.....

 

[mknauss]

You may find you will want to remove the trichlor feeder, and use that distance to add before the IC. Especially if the infloor cleaner needs higher rpm to operate.

Yes, the overall Pentair system. Likely Easytouch. Do you have an app or remote to operate the system?