Went through pool school - waste

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ciaka

Well-known member
Jun 10, 2020
279
Austin, TX
Have taylor k-2006c kit (bought).
Pool school guy used his different taylor kit.
Mine does not have r0001 or r0002. has r-0870 powder and r-0871 titrating reagent, but i dont know how to use since pool guy never had that. Did not want to use mine either. Now need to find out how to test water with my taylor k-2006c. Anyone can give info or link to how to use the kit completely (that specific kit).
Thanks. The block also does not have cl reading. only ph. Disappointed.
 
ciaka said:
Mine does not have r0001 or r0002. has r-0870 powder and r-0871 titrating reagent, but i dont know how to use since pool guy never had that. Did not want to use mine either. Now need to find out how to test water with my taylor k-2006c. Anyone can give info or link to how to use the kit completely (that specific kit).
Click to expand...
You shouldn't be disappointed, you should be very happy that you are in control of your pool chemistry. The purpose of the Taylor K-2006 kit is to test for FC using the powder so you can see a definitive change in water color to know your FC level. Your pool guy had to make some assumptions on color match. FC level is very important to understand thus the need to use the method in the K-2006 kit. Also, you can use this kit to test FC at very high levels whereas what your pool guy used is limited. So for the best method to monitor your FC you have the right kit. I see that Allen provided you a video. So it only takes some practice and you be a champ in no time.
Be sure to test your water that you use to fill your pool with as well. While it may have zero to very low amounts of FC, it will have Calcium or Alkalinity so you need to understand what affect that may have your chemistry when you lose water to evaporation or splash out.
 
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Yes, the instructions are inside box, but not full proof. At least when this idiot is reading it.
I assume I have to use instructions for FAS-DPD Chlorine (Service complete), since that is printed on outside of my box. Am I correct?

Have few questions:
1. Please help explain meaning of below, in step 1 for chlorine:
NOTE. For 1 drop = 0.2ppm, use 25mL sample. For 1 drop = 0.5ppm, use 10mL sample.

2. In step 4, please help explain (I assume I have to know how large each drop is for my kit):
Multiply drops in Step 3, by drop equivalence (Step 1). Record as ppm free chlorine (Cl2)

3. Same question (from step 4), regarding step 7 (again, need equivalence).

On the outside of the box, it says: 1 drop = 0.2 or 0.5 ppm Chlorine.
Now, 1 drop is both 0.2 and 0.5 ppm? Really? What am I reading wrong?


The Taylor K-2006c kit has 2oz bottles, where does it say how large one drop is? Been reading the chemistry book from kit, but it talks about each type of test, not about specific steps to do each test, using the kit. More confusion.
 
Dont get me wrong, I am not disappointed that I am learning the chemistry. I am disappointed that after spending huge dollars on pool, the poo school could have been written on a 25 cent page of paper and handed in. I asked specifically to use my kit so that he can show me how to use it, but he said (after looking at it), that he will just use his.


HermanTX said:
You shouldn't be disappointed, you should be very happy that you are in control of your pool chemistry. The purpose of the Taylor K-2006 kit is to test for FC using the powder so you can see a definitive change in water color to know your FC level. Your pool guy had to make some assumptions on color match. FC level is very important to understand thus the need to use the method in the K-2006 kit. Also, you can use this kit to test FC at very high levels whereas what your pool guy used is limited. So for the best method to monitor your FC you have the right kit. I see that Allen provided you a video. So it only takes some practice and you be a champ in no time.
Be sure to test your water that you use to fill your pool with as well. While it may have zero to very low amounts of FC, it will have Calcium or Alkalinity so you need to understand what affect that may have your chemistry when you lose water to evaporation or splash out.
Click to expand...
 
ciaka said:
NOTE. For 1 drop = 0.2ppm, use 25mL sample. For 1 drop = 0.5ppm, use 10mL sample.
Click to expand...
If you want each drop to equal 0.2 ppm, use a 25 ml sample of pool water.

If you want each drop of reagent to equal to 0.5 ppm, use the 10 ml pool water sample size.

Just follow the below video and use a 10 ml sample where each drop equals 0.5 ppm.

 
I get your frustration. It was an unfortunate case of an expectation that had little to no chance of being fulfilled.

Following the instructions with your kit and asking questions has you have is the best option.

On the FAS/DPD test. You have the options of getting two different levels of accuracy. Accuracy down to 0.2 or 0.5. Going down to 0.5 is all you will ever need. The same powder and reagent are used. In order to get a higher accuracy, you should use a 25ml sample of water in your test tube. In order to get a the standard 0.5 accuracy, use a 10ml sample of water in the test tube to start your test. So in summary, use 10ml of water for this test. Then each drop on your way to getting the clear result is 0.5 PPM FC. So 10 drops to clear would be 5 PPM of FC. 10 drops x 0.5 = 5.
 

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Use a 10 mL water sample. Then each drop is worth 0.5 ppm FC. Put another way, divide the number of drops by two to get your FC. If you use 20 drops, your FC is 10.

The option is there to use a 25 mL water sample. If you do that, then each drop is worth 0.2 ppm FC. However, that level of precision really isn't necessary, so it just uses more reagents than necessary. Save yourself a little money and just use 10 mL sample and divide drops by two.
 
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ciaka said:
Yes, the instructions are inside box, but not full proof. At least when this idiot is reading it.
I assume I have to use instructions for FAS-DPD Chlorine (Service complete), since that is printed on outside of my box. Am I correct?

Have few questions:
1. Please help explain meaning of below, in step 1 for chlorine:
NOTE. For 1 drop = 0.2ppm, use 25mL sample. For 1 drop = 0.5ppm, use 10mL sample.

2. In step 4, please help explain (I assume I have to know how large each drop is for my kit):
Multiply drops in Step 3, by drop equivalence (Step 1). Record as ppm free chlorine (Cl2)

3. Same question (from step 4), regarding step 7 (again, need equivalence).

On the outside of the box, it says: 1 drop = 0.2 or 0.5 ppm Chlorine.
Now, 1 drop is both 0.2 and 0.5 ppm? Really? What am I reading wrong?


The Taylor K-2006c kit has 2oz bottles, where does it say how large one drop is? Been reading the chemistry book from kit, but it talks about each type of test, not about specific steps to do each test, using the kit. More confusion.
Click to expand...

a drop is a drop is a drop...

If you fill the tube to 25ml, then each drop is equivalent to .2ppm of FC. If you use the 10ml fill level then each drop is equivalent to 0.5ppm of FC. You should use the 10ml fill level since the math is easier that way.
 
k. Followed video from TAYLOR. This one

Went to the pool, rinsed the bottle well under water. Not near any skimmers or returns.
Dipped arm into water elbow deep, bottle upside down, flipped bottle upright, filled. Closed with earlier well rinsed cap inside pool water too.
Came home to test.

Filled to 25mL (as vid said use 25mL if Cl level is low or unknown). k.
Added 2 scoops of powder R-0870. Very slight pinkish. Added 3 more scoops at which time liquid turned pink, kind of vibrant but not too much (so vague).
Then added drops of FAS-DPD reagent R-0871, counting each drop until liquid turned colorless.
Well, kept on adding, was almost colorless but not colorless. After some seconds, started getting more pinkish to kept adding.
Got to 55 drops, and to be perfectly honest, liquid was not 100% colorless (very slight mist but against white sheet of paper you could tell).
Stopped there at 55. Multiplied by 0.2 to get FREE CHLORINE PPM: 11ppm.

Then added 5 drops of reagent R-0003 per instructions (to the existing mix). Agitated, and it was pink.
Per instructions, started adding R-0871 again (FAS-DPD reagent), until the liquid became colorless again and stayed there.
Well again, kept on adding and got to 60 drops, at which time liquid was not really really colorless (again, against white paper).
Got to 60 drops this time, stopped because I am gonna use the whole ****** bottle. Multiplied # of drops this time, by 0.2. My Combined Chlorine number: 12 ppm.
IMO, since liquid was not totally colorless each time, I think both numbers are POS lie, but if I kept adding, I am sure I would be adding another 100 drops to get to colorless (as I perceive colorless, as without color, any color).

So obviously I must be doing something wrong here. Anyone care to guide my arze to mistake and how to do this better?
Isnt colorless supposed to be actually colorless, zero color, none? I dont feel like spending 50 bucks on reagent so I can learn.
I did not proceed past above, as I am sure I am screwing something up and will be doing over.
Thanks.
 
Had a testing session tonight.
I will take sample of water tomorrow to Leslies, to compare with what I have.
Not supposed to adjust for next month as construction company provides pool service for 4 weeks after pool school (gives me chance to ramp up).

My test numbers are:
TESTRESULTS
Free Chlorine3 ppm
Combined Chlorine6 ppm
pH7.4
Total Alkalinity270 ppm
Calcium Hardness300 ppm
Cyanuric Acid< 25 ppm (basically I filled whole tube and dot never disappeared)

Now, lets hope I did this correctly.
 
ciaka said:
Added 2 scoops of powder R-0870. Very slight pinkish. Added 3 more scoops at which time liquid turned pink, kind of vibrant but not too much (so vague).
Then added drops of FAS-DPD reagent R-0871, counting each drop until liquid turned colorless.
Well, kept on adding, was almost colorless but not colorless. After some seconds, started getting more pinkish to kept adding.
Got to 55 drops, and to be perfectly honest, liquid was not 100% colorless (very slight mist but against white sheet of paper you could tell).
Click to expand...
Couple of more pointers to help you through this.
  1. I would start with using 10ml sample until you know you are getting consistent results. No need to waste reagents unnecessarily. Being accurate to 0.5 is good and much better than what a pool store will give you.
  2. Don't try to compare your test to a pool store. You do not know if they rinsed the previously sample or if their machine has been calibrated. You will also second guess yourself if you compare to pool store. Once you get consistency you will be always have the most accurate value of whatever test you are doing.
  3. No need to add more than 2 scoops of powder. If it turns pink than that is fine. If it does not turn pink then you have no free chlorine (FC) in pool water sample. Adding more powder is wasteful and does not make it pinker in hopes of getting higher FC.
  4. You are looking for it to go from pink to clear. As you near that point, it will turn a very faint pink then the next drop should make it go clear. It may be a hazy "clear" but absent of any pink. That is end of the FC test.
  5. It is best to swirl the tube after each drop. Just for a second or so. The goal is to keep the drops going - not to linger after each one.
  6. Also, hold the bottle vertical over the tube so the drop sizes are consistent.
  7. Try not to squeeze the bottle excessively - the drops should just form and fall out.
  8. Once you reach "clear" solution - then write down that number of drops and start to add the R-0003 (5 drops) for the CC test. If it remains clear. Then your CC is zero. If it turns a slight pinkish - add the R-0871 drops and count those until clear again. It should only be 1 to 3 drops (normally - not a given, it can be higher but "expectations" are that it should be less than your number of drops for the FC test) That count of drops is your CC (times 0.2 or 0.5 dependent on which sample volume you used.).
  9. If you let your original sample sit (after the FC test) before you add R-0003 it may turn pink - this is to be a quick test - not letting sit after the test of FC.
  10. Move directly to the CC testing after you have reached "clear" on your FC test. Also, after the CC test, if you let it sit, it will also start to turn pinkish again. However, your test ended when it turned clear so don't try to keep adding drops. Throw out the sample once all is done.
Hope this gives some helpful points.
 
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HermanTX said:
  1. Don't try to compare your test to a pool store. You do not know if they rinsed the previously sample or if their machine has been calibrated. You will also second guess yourself if you compare to pool store. Once you get consistency you will be always have the most accurate value of whatever test you are doing.
Click to expand...
You're already getting some great advice, so I won't confuse things with another set. Except to reinforce Herman's tip: stay out of the pool store. If you're having a little confusion now (which is perfectly fine, and normal, we all did), it'll be 10 times worse if you mix in what a pool store will tell you, both about your chemistry and what you should buy to add to your pool. Puhpuhpuhpleeeeeeeeease don't get a pool store involved. A few more times and you'll have this testing thing down. We promise. You can do it!

Here is another resource for you, if you find the one's you've already been given are lacking:

Extended Test Kit Directions Archives

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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