Flying Tivo
TFP Guide
- Jan 24, 2017
- 3,100
- Pool Size
- 7500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I would try to raise CYA to 40 and try it out since your pool is clear.
Clear Pool with High Nitrates & high Chlorine consumption
- Thread starter noalchidester
- Start date
Anyone have experience with a pool that struggled with Daytime chlorine loss with CYA at 30? If so what CYA level helped it improve? Thanks in advance for any ideas/thoughts.
Flying Tivo
TFP Guide
- Jan 24, 2017
- 3,100
- Pool Size
- 7500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Its really about UV index at your location more than temperature. Look in your weather app and track it.
Thanks Felipe. Thanks for the idea. I'll take a look. I guess I'm not sure why UV would be a problem now this year. The last few years the pool has been easy to maintain even in sunny/hot weather with the exception of high CYA toward the end of the season from the tablets. Right now I'm consuming about 5 gallons of LC a day which won't be sustainable.
Flying Tivo
TFP Guide
- Jan 24, 2017
- 3,100
- Pool Size
- 7500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Forgot to ask you about the LC date printed in the bottles, looks like a code but its a julian date. Please verify if your LC is recent as strength diminishes with time and heat.
- Jul 3, 2013
- 9,027
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-40
It really seems like the CYA is below 30... I keep going back to you not loosing any FC overnight and then losing everything within hours of the sun coming up...
The problem everyone is thinking about is if we have you raise CYA and it does not help, then you will have to add more chlorine to get to SLAM level and we do not want to do that to you... On the flip side if the CYA is low or none then we are doing exactly that, wasting chlorine...
Just to confirm, the black dot is disappearing in the CYA tube at 30, is there someone else who can do the test also? This is the hardest test out of all of them and it really is a pain... I pour it back and forth about 10 to 15 times to be sure.
what was your FC last night after the sun went down and then this morning before the sun comes up?
The problem everyone is thinking about is if we have you raise CYA and it does not help, then you will have to add more chlorine to get to SLAM level and we do not want to do that to you... On the flip side if the CYA is low or none then we are doing exactly that, wasting chlorine...
Just to confirm, the black dot is disappearing in the CYA tube at 30, is there someone else who can do the test also? This is the hardest test out of all of them and it really is a pain... I pour it back and forth about 10 to 15 times to be sure.
what was your FC last night after the sun went down and then this morning before the sun comes up?
Thanks for your input guys. I logged another test this morning and my FC showed a little higher (13) than my OCLT reading for FC last night (12). I think I've been skimping a little on the DPD powder on some of my tests and that seems to make a difference. My CC last night was .5 and it remained the same this morning. So it seems I passed the OCTL again.
As for the CYA, I had my wife look at the tube at 30 and she validated that she couldn't see anything at 30 but could see the dot at 40. I hear ya, I think you mind/eye can play tricks on you. Since this is my second day in a row passing the OCLT it seems I need to raise my CYA to compensate for my potential inability to do a good CYA test or just to raise it to 40 to see if there is any change in the huge daily FC loss. I'll probably also take a sample to the pool store to see if they can validate my reading. The forecast if for 96 with low UV of 1. Really don't know any other options at this point. Thoughts? Thanks again to all. You're great!
As for the CYA, I had my wife look at the tube at 30 and she validated that she couldn't see anything at 30 but could see the dot at 40. I hear ya, I think you mind/eye can play tricks on you. Since this is my second day in a row passing the OCLT it seems I need to raise my CYA to compensate for my potential inability to do a good CYA test or just to raise it to 40 to see if there is any change in the huge daily FC loss. I'll probably also take a sample to the pool store to see if they can validate my reading. The forecast if for 96 with low UV of 1. Really don't know any other options at this point. Thoughts? Thanks again to all. You're great!
The only thing that I can think of that would match the information is possibly bromide in the water.
If you're passing the OCLT, there's nothing in the water that is using the chlorine.
That leaves the sunlight. If the CYA is good, the chlorine should be stable.
If you have bromide in the water, chlorine will turn into bromine and the UV can get it because bromine is not protected by CYA.
Do you know if bromine was ever used or sodium bromide was added?
Sodium bromide is in some products like Yellow Out and No More Problems.
If you're passing the OCLT, there's nothing in the water that is using the chlorine.
That leaves the sunlight. If the CYA is good, the chlorine should be stable.
If you have bromide in the water, chlorine will turn into bromine and the UV can get it because bromine is not protected by CYA.
Do you know if bromine was ever used or sodium bromide was added?
Sodium bromide is in some products like Yellow Out and No More Problems.
I used two bottles of a product called Pink Treat last year to fight some pink looking algae/growth.. This is what it says when in went on line:
Pink Treat is sodium bromide and the active agent is the hypochloric acid which is formed when you shock the pool after adding Pink Treat. Pink Treat may do the job, however, once you use it your pool is converted from a chlorine pool to a bromine pool. Your chlorine consumption will always be higher.
OK...Wow. What do I do now?
Pink Treat is sodium bromide and the active agent is the hypochloric acid which is formed when you shock the pool after adding Pink Treat. Pink Treat may do the job, however, once you use it your pool is converted from a chlorine pool to a bromine pool. Your chlorine consumption will always be higher.
OK...Wow. What do I do now?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,835
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Shoot --- only way to get rid of bromide is to drain.
Good catch JamesW -- I thought about it but never asked -----
Good catch JamesW -- I thought about it but never asked -----
Draining and refilling is the only way to really get rid of bromide. It might dissipate over time if the bromine offgasses, but that’s uncertain. You could switch to a SWG and try to manage for a while to see if the bromide will dissipate.
Note that draining can risk damage to the pool. Consult with a local expert to make sure that draining is safe.
Note that draining can risk damage to the pool. Consult with a local expert to make sure that draining is safe.
Sorry , Gonna vent here a little but the pool store sells these to anyone and the guys that close my pool recommended it when I called about the pink algea. This is what the bottle says:
- Use: Algaecide; eradicate blooms of “Pink Algae/White Water Mold”
- Compatible with: Pools treated with chlorine (including salt generators) and bromine
- 2 lbs. bottle
- Dosage Rate: 2 lbs. per 20,000 gallons
- Chemical Type: Granular
You're going to have to ask the people who said that using it is ok.
Maybe they don’t know that it’s a problem.
Maybe they don’t care as long as they get paid.
Flying Tivo
TFP Guide
- Jan 24, 2017
- 3,100
- Pool Size
- 7500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Probably your best option is to wait until you close the pool for winter to do a large drain and refill.
- Jul 3, 2013
- 9,027
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-40
not really, there is no way to keep putting that much chlorine in a day and last another 2 or 3 months...
Agreed. I put the Pink Treat in last year and have apparently never recovered. Will the pool have to be drained bone dry? If yes, how does a professional or anyone prevent the possible damage James mentioned. Is it about the pace of the drain? Looks like I'm not renaming my pool anytime soon.
Flying Tivo
TFP Guide
- Jan 24, 2017
- 3,100
- Pool Size
- 7500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
- May 3, 2014
- 62,835
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
No, but the more bromide you remove the better your chemistry will act.
What is the temperature of your fill water versus your pool water?
Read Draining - Further Reading
- May 3, 2014
- 62,835
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Needs to be covered during the day to shield the chlorine from the sun. Except for when being used. Chlorine would then need to be added before covering. Same process as a hot tub/spa with bromine.