New House...First Pool = LOT’S of Questions!

Here’s today’s picture. Just see a little more clear down the side. I think I can faintly start to make out the patter on the liner towards the bottom by the side of the pool.

I might try the DE this weekend. Looks like I will need very little to get it to raise the pressure and from what I can see it’s only sold in 25lb bags. How long does unused DE last?
  • Forever if kept dry,
    • you only need 1/4c to start, add until your pressure raises 1point (pour directly in skimmer/inlet to pump-filter).
    • Then watch for the pressure to rise 25% over clean pressure, backwash & repeat :)
When to clean a filter
Manufactures will often tell pool owners to clean their filter when the pressure rises by 8-10 PSI. This may have been ok when pumps were much larger and plumbing was much smaller resulting in much higher clean filter pressures but with the move towards making swimming pools more energy efficient, larger plumbing combined with smaller pumps has resulted in much lower clean filter operating pressures. Under these conditions, allowing the filter pressure to rise by 8-10 PSI can drastically reduce the efficiency of the pump. So to minimize energy efficiency losses, we recommend that you clean your filter before the pressure rises by 25%.
For example:
  • 10 PSI Clean Filter pressure -> Clean filter when pressure rises to 12-13 PSI
  • 15 PSI Clean Filter pressure -> Clean filter when pressure rises to 18-19 PSI
  • 20 PSI Clean Filter pressure -> Clean filter when pressure rises to 25 PSI
 
Last edited:
  • Forever if kept dry,
    • you only need 1/4c to start, add until your pressure raises 1point (pour directly in skimmer/inlet to pump-filter).
    • Then watch for the pressure to rise 25% over clean pressure, backwash & repeat :)
When to clean a filter
Manufactures will often tell pool owners to clean their filter when the pressure rises by 8-10 PSI. This may have been ok when pumps were much larger and plumbing was much smaller resulting in much higher clean filter pressures but with the move towards making swimming pools more energy efficient, larger plumbing combined with smaller pumps has resulted in much lower clean filter operating pressures. Under these conditions, allowing the filter pressure to rise by 8-10 PSI can drastically reduce the efficiency of the pump. So to minimize energy efficiency losses, we recommend that you clean your filter before the pressure rises by 25%.
For example:
  • 10 PSI Clean Filter pressure -> Clean filter when pressure rises to 12-13 PSI
  • 15 PSI Clean Filter pressure -> Clean filter when pressure rises to 18-19 PSI
  • 20 PSI Clean Filter pressure -> Clean filter when pressure rises to 25 PSI
Perfect. Thanks for that info! Should I use D.E. in my filter say like once a month to help clean up the fine stuff from the pool?
 
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Perfect. Thanks for that info! Should I use D.E. in my filter say like once a month to help clean up the fine stuff from the pool?
You definitely can, we do :D
It's the best of both worlds (Sand + DE), with less cost & maintenance hassle
Just remember to add after backwash and small amount, not so much you have to backwash immediately :)
 
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I won’t post a picture of the pool from today since you can’t tell much difference. But I can see a little further down the wall, and Pool Rover Jr a little better at the bottom of the pool.

I do have a question though. I want to build kind of like a step around the entire pool where my deck is connected. Since the pool sits about 10-12” higher than the deck, I’m afraid of kids standing on the top rail.

So my question is it better to build the deck step/jumping ledge even with the top rail or build it a little taller so that it covers the top rail?
 
Mac, do you have any inspiration pics of what you are talking about? I can't quite picture what you are meaning.
Something kind of like this, but instead only 1 larger/taller step. And in looking at most of the pictures on google, most of the time the deck floor is either even with the top rail or just under it.
 

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Mine is done just under it. Our reasoning is it makes it easier down the road to replace the liner and such. I also like how it looks. It also acts as a physical "barrier" between the deck and pool. Others call it a trip tripper but if they were watching where they were going..........it would not be a problem :roll: LOL

Kim:kim:
 
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We are oh so close. I can see the pattern of the liner in the middle of the pool, and the pool rover jr moving all over the place.

I did buy some Skimmer socks and put that in this afternoon. I can’t believe how much pollen it collected. It was a sludgy yellow mess in about 4 hours. No wonder I have horrible allergies!

I did speed things up a bit using a Floc on Friday. I know, I know. But it helped tremendously. I had a lot of white cloudiness and a small pile of dark green/black stuff at the bottom that I vacuumed to waste.
 
Deep clean your filter soon. The Floc will gum it up. It is nearly impossible to vac all of it to waste.
 
So I’m a moron...prior to really following the advice on here and there was a great sale online, I purchased 24lb worth of Cal Hypo Shock, and what I thought was 1-50lb pail of 3” pucks, I actually purchased 2-50lb pails of 3” pucks. Again this was all before I really read into the TFP method.

So now I’m sitting on $250 worth of chems that I won’t use. I’ll be posting this to FB & Craigslist to sell.

DOH! ??‍♂️

I do have a shark floating dispenser that we bought too, and my kids LOVE it. I can’t get rid of it, but won’t put pucks in the pool. What can I put inside the floater that will let it “float” that won’t rust or hurt the pool chemistry? Any ideas?
 
Check your CH - if low - you can use up the cal hypo. The pucks, keep at least one bucket for vacations, when you need a bit of CYA, etc.
A knee high nylon with sand in it will weigh down the floater ---- you will need it for the pucks when you use them.
 
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So I’m a moron...prior to really following the advice on here and there was a great sale online, I purchased 24lb worth of Cal Hypo Shock, and what I thought was 1-50lb pail of 3” pucks, I actually purchased 2-50lb pails of 3” pucks. Again this was all before I really read into the TFP method.

So now I’m sitting on $250 worth of chems that I won’t use. I’ll be posting this to FB & Craigslist to sell.

DOH! ??‍♂️

I do have a shark floating dispenser that we bought too, and my kids LOVE it. I can’t get rid of it, but won’t put pucks in the pool. What can I put inside the floater that will let it “float” that won’t rust or hurt the pool chemistry? Any ideas?
No need to get rid of the floater! :D
Not moron, didn't know better, big difference :) If you bought them after learning and knowing TFP, well... :p (just kidding!!)
Is the Cal Hypo bulk or small packages, common brand? If small package/common brand, I was able to exchange mine (in our first TFP year, same thing) one at a time for the Pool Chlorine at my local stores, just an idea
You should be able to get close to your money back through FB :) Plaster/Gunite pools do need calcuim! :D

Check your CH - if low - you can use up the cal hypo. The pucks, keep at least one bucket for vacations, when you need a bit of CYA, etc.
A knee high nylon with sand in it will weigh down the floater ---- you will need it for the pucks when you use them.
It's AG vinyl ;) doesn't need CH
 
No need to get rid of the floater! :D
Not moron, didn't know better, big difference :) If you bought them after learning and knowing TFP, well... :p (just kidding!!)
Is the Cal Hypo bulk or small packages, common brand? If small package/common brand, I was able to exchange mine (in our first TFP year, same thing) one at a time for the Pool Chlorine at my local stores, just an idea
You should be able to get close to your money back through FB :) Plaster/Gunite pools do need calcuim! :D


It's AG vinyl ;) doesn't need CH
Purchased the chems online (InTheSwim). The Cal Hypo is all 1lb bags. My CH is high (I know I have a vinyl liner), and I don't want my CH to go any higher (350-400).
 
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Purchased the chems online (InTheSwim). The Cal Hypo is all 1lb bags. My CH is high (I know I have a vinyl liner), and I don't want my CH to go any higher (350-400).
Your CH is already 350? :mrgreen: Keep that PH in check ;)

Cal Hypo: If it's a common brand (not intheswim store brand) you can exchange it for the liquid pool chlorine as needed :D

An off script idea:
The Clorox Pool Sequestrant did work for us to remove excess calcium we knocked out of solution, it is not "TFP approved", YMMV
 

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