CJadamec
TFP Expert
If you have rocks a digging bar and a post hole digger are the way to go for digging posts. Ask me how I know.
Deck ideas
- Thread starter Hayseed
- Start date
I found a link here, but don't know how to link it... search for " Nicest or coolest intex pool installs". the answer to the post has a link to a build with floating blocks used, over 30" tall and it is awesome!
That is what I had to do for my fence. 15 times 2 foot deep. Older now, trying to cheat the system for the sake of my back. 40 years ago you could hire a kid to this, not today.
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Couldnt find the deck. Found link here on TFP? I put in search box, nothing!
Thanks for the link Kel. I am now, that I have seen a bunch of different pool designs, looking for construction pictures, that show the accepted spacing of pillars allowed an what size lumber to use for skirting and what not
I will try to remember to take pictures, and have them posted before the google blimp beats me to it.
I am thinking of using the dek blocks, even though my deck will be higher than 30 inches. Was thinking of taking the sod off underneath the block and compacting with 4x4 post real good. I was also wondering if I dug a one foot hole underneath each block filled with gravel, compacted that gravel and placed block, would that aid in ground to not heave and he blocks so much? Or just make it worse? Any structural engineers out their?
CJadamec
TFP Expert
As a disclaimer: I don't recommend going over the recommended build height for you deck supports. Proper footings below frost depth for your area are the correct way to build a deck like this.
The problem with using those blocks is two fold.
1) You live in an area subject to freezing so you have to contend with frost heave. Decks built on block like this are free to move and will have a mind of their own in a few years. The larger the deck and the more blocks you need to support the deck the less likely you are to suffer frost heave issues.
2) You plan on building a deck taller than recommended. These blocks are not anchored to the ground so they offer no resistance to any side load or tipping load that is introduced to the deck via people or wind. A tall deck up on blocks can easily be flipped or move from strong winds. The same goes for a lot of party people who decide to all of a sudden run to one side of the deck.
Setting the blocks on compacted gravel will help with frost heave but its no guarantee. It should make things better in the long run but gravel can push into the soil over time leading to a settling problem. Heavy geo-textile fabric under the gravel would help to prevent settling.
Another issue is the bottoms of the deck legs will need to be tied together to keep the deck stable. This is easily done with lumber but it will add extra cost.
The problem with using those blocks is two fold.
1) You live in an area subject to freezing so you have to contend with frost heave. Decks built on block like this are free to move and will have a mind of their own in a few years. The larger the deck and the more blocks you need to support the deck the less likely you are to suffer frost heave issues.
2) You plan on building a deck taller than recommended. These blocks are not anchored to the ground so they offer no resistance to any side load or tipping load that is introduced to the deck via people or wind. A tall deck up on blocks can easily be flipped or move from strong winds. The same goes for a lot of party people who decide to all of a sudden run to one side of the deck.
Setting the blocks on compacted gravel will help with frost heave but its no guarantee. It should make things better in the long run but gravel can push into the soil over time leading to a settling problem. Heavy geo-textile fabric under the gravel would help to prevent settling.
Another issue is the bottoms of the deck legs will need to be tied together to keep the deck stable. This is easily done with lumber but it will add extra cost.
Attachments
I believe with all your give and takes. I have opted to split it down the middle. What do you think? Btw, my deck is to be 16 x 10 on the oval end, and a two and a half foot walk way down one side from ten foot deck to the other end. I will put all the outer supports on concrete and all the other inside supports on blocks. What is a good spacing for columns, and can you get away with ten inch planks?
CJadamec
TFP Expert
The foundations should be either blocks or footings not both. Otherwise it will cause the deck to be forcefully twisted by ground movement.
The size of the deck sounds good in terms of space for using the pool. As a reference my upper deck area is roughly 11x24. My lower deck is 16x30.
Joist sizing depends on the span between support beams and amount of cantilever if you are going that route. I would need a scetch of how you plan to frame the deck to say what size you need.
I use regular 2x6 pressure treated lumber for my decking. Its not as clear as the 5/4 rounded edge decking but I like the added strength it gives the deck.
The size of the deck sounds good in terms of space for using the pool. As a reference my upper deck area is roughly 11x24. My lower deck is 16x30.
Joist sizing depends on the span between support beams and amount of cantilever if you are going that route. I would need a scetch of how you plan to frame the deck to say what size you need.
I use regular 2x6 pressure treated lumber for my decking. Its not as clear as the 5/4 rounded edge decking but I like the added strength it gives the deck.
linda1
0
We built a 4 foot deck completely around our 30 ft pool using the deck blocks. It is over 30 inches high. When we built ours, I found free plans online. It gave us a list of all the materials we needed to order. In Pa. we do get ground heaving in the winter. It hasn't been a problem with our deck. We left about an inch between the deck and pool and had it level with the coping.
Hayseed,
If you really want to use the deck blocks but are worried about building over 30" in total height, would it be possible for you to build the entire deck waaaay below the top rail of the pool and just install a regular A frame ladder to enter the water from the deck?? Similar to this setup down below...
If you really want to use the deck blocks but are worried about building over 30" in total height, would it be possible for you to build the entire deck waaaay below the top rail of the pool and just install a regular A frame ladder to enter the water from the deck?? Similar to this setup down below...
Linda how long has your deck been in place? And mr. B that looks like a good alternative. We wanted to be able to sit and watch the water or the kids when they came. But looking at this picture it seems that you can still view the water on the lower deck. Since I gave up trying to level the ground by hand, mainly because my rotortiller wouldn't stay running, I am going to rent a bob cat, and hopefully will be able to dig the pool down enough to build a lower deck.
I'm still trying to "make it up to you" since my suggestion for you to use the Lowes deck builder tool didn't work for you.
CJadamec
TFP Expert
I'm still trying to "make it up to you" since my suggestion for you to use the Lowes deck builder tool didn't work for you.
Don't feel too bad that's nothing compared to my ability to smash Hayseeds dreams... I swear I'm just trying to help, hopefully he can see thru to forgive me.
Yeah, way to be a Debbie Downer, Chuck. "Don't mix blocks and footings", "Be sure to overbuild with 2x6s and not 5/4 deck boards", "The sky is falling", etc, etc, etc. Oh wait.... you didn't say that last one, did you? Hmmmmmm. Must've been something I heard this morning on the news.
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Me
Chuck
CJadamec
TFP Expert
Actually 2x6's are about 20% cheaper than the same amount of 5/4 decking and they are notably stronger and make a much less shaky deck. 2x6s have more knots and don't have the rounded corners, they also will show planer marks if you look close enough. If using 2x6 its best to hand pick you lumber and to try and pick from a fresh/full draft.
I also insist on using screws to hold down decking. Nails just pop out and lift over time. That's a personal thing tho and it's really hard to resist the urge to just shoot 20 nails in the time it takes to do 2 screws.
I also insist on using screws to hold down decking. Nails just pop out and lift over time. That's a personal thing tho and it's really hard to resist the urge to just shoot 20 nails in the time it takes to do 2 screws.
I completely agree with you on using screws for decking. If you've seen my octagon shaped deck, nails are popping out all the time on that old thing. My son-in-law swears by the Torx screws. He's built 3-4 decks so far and he tells me that they screws are much easier to use because the driver bit lasts forever and a day!! I'm gonna try it since he's the main builder and I'm going to simply be there as an assistant.
