Hello: We just installed an Aviva Eden 32 fiberglass pool up near Gainsville. First time pool owners and this is day one after "pool school" by the builders cleaning guy. So I have no idea what to do or focus on first. Do I worry about spraying the deck with water, or getting the water chemistry right immediately, or what is the best approach. I am ordering the recommended test kit today, but beyond that I will be reading and studying here. Any links to posts that address my situation would be appreciated.
New to Pool in North Texas
- Thread starter BWnDallas
- Start date
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,004
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Welcome to TFP!!!
Ask the builder about deck maintenance.
Here's what to do with the pool....
www.troublefreepool.com
Ask the builder about deck maintenance.
Here's what to do with the pool....
Just Filled Your Pool with Water? Here's What To Do Next - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,024
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
So here is my update with new signature too!
My TF Pro Salt arrived 3/6 and tested FC=0, CC=0, CYA=0, TA=300, pH=8.2, CH=50, Salt 1800 (compare to reading on the SWG which was 2300).
3/6 added .33 gal muriatic acid and 1 40 bag salt
3/7 added 2 lb CYA in dangled old sock, pH was 7.8 and clorine block test was est at .5. Added 2 more cups MA
3/9 comparator block est pH=8.2 and CL=1, CYA 50, FC test=1.75 and CC=.5, added remainder of first gallon of MA
3/11 pH 8.2, TC=3, TA=240, added 1/2 gal MA and 2 lbs CYA
3/13 pH 8.2 and TC=5, so added 1/2 gal MA at 6:30 pm. Tested at 8:45 PM and pH was now 7.2
3/14 pH 7.2, CL=5, TA 180, CYA 80, FC=8, CC=0, CH=25, Salt=2400(2900 on panel). Added 25 lbs Calcium Hardness Increaser
3/16 pH at least 8.2 (very dark red), FC=12.5, CC=0, TA=190, CH=300, Salt 2600 (3200 on panel), CYA=80. Added .33 gal MA at 4:40 PM, retested pH at 7:00 PM was 7.5
Water temp tested around 65 degrees.
What do you guys see in these numbers? If this post is a horrible effort then please advise the format that I should use to seek oversight/guidance.
Thanks again!
My TF Pro Salt arrived 3/6 and tested FC=0, CC=0, CYA=0, TA=300, pH=8.2, CH=50, Salt 1800 (compare to reading on the SWG which was 2300).
3/6 added .33 gal muriatic acid and 1 40 bag salt
3/7 added 2 lb CYA in dangled old sock, pH was 7.8 and clorine block test was est at .5. Added 2 more cups MA
3/9 comparator block est pH=8.2 and CL=1, CYA 50, FC test=1.75 and CC=.5, added remainder of first gallon of MA
3/11 pH 8.2, TC=3, TA=240, added 1/2 gal MA and 2 lbs CYA
3/13 pH 8.2 and TC=5, so added 1/2 gal MA at 6:30 pm. Tested at 8:45 PM and pH was now 7.2
3/14 pH 7.2, CL=5, TA 180, CYA 80, FC=8, CC=0, CH=25, Salt=2400(2900 on panel). Added 25 lbs Calcium Hardness Increaser
3/16 pH at least 8.2 (very dark red), FC=12.5, CC=0, TA=190, CH=300, Salt 2600 (3200 on panel), CYA=80. Added .33 gal MA at 4:40 PM, retested pH at 7:00 PM was 7.5
Water temp tested around 65 degrees.
What do you guys see in these numbers? If this post is a horrible effort then please advise the format that I should use to seek oversight/guidance.
Thanks again!
I should also mention we had a massive dust storm blow through and a lot of red dirt from west texas landed in the pool which I vacumed out. I suppose that dirt and the white capping winds we had may have impacted my progression.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,004
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Looks fine. Unless you have a tile line or gas heater, no need to monitor/raise CH in a FG pool.
For FC, keep FC in range for your CYA. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Aviva requires CH to be between 150 and 200 and to be tested by a pool company every 6 months in order to maintain the pool shell warranty. So hopefully it will drop some and then I will not worry about it too much. No tile line and no heater.
Since my FC is above the recommended range slightly should I dial back the "percentage" setting on my Aquarite panel. Is that the recommended step to take?
Do I need to keep fighting the pH battle and trying to lower TA by adding all this acid. I am now at 2.33 gallons added since 3/6.
Do I need to let my test water get to room temp before I run my pH test? I think I read that on here somewhere.
Since my FC is above the recommended range slightly should I dial back the "percentage" setting on my Aquarite panel. Is that the recommended step to take?
Do I need to keep fighting the pH battle and trying to lower TA by adding all this acid. I am now at 2.33 gallons added since 3/6.
Do I need to let my test water get to room temp before I run my pH test? I think I read that on here somewhere.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,004
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Yes. Or reduce the amount of time the pump runs. Do you have Pool Math? Will help you figure out run time and % output. Link-->>PoolMath
Test your fill water for TA. Likely high. You have two choices. Just manage pH and ignore TA, but with high TA, you will likely be adding acid frequently. The other choice is this...
Lowering Total Alkalinity (TA) Quickly with the Acid Aeration Method
Thought I'd make a post that might help others. We've had quite a few members this year with high TA, and I've been typing the same information over and over. I'm going to post this so I can link it to help others. High TA can cause rapid pH rise. High TA is typically caused by high TA fill...
www.troublefreepool.com
Taylor Technologies recommends sample temperatures be between 50-90℉. If lower that 50, let it warm up. The only test you need to warm to 70+ is CYA.
Let's hammer out these details so you understand how the recommendations apply to you.
The sun rises everyday, even behind the clouds. The UV burns off FC daily, and the daily loss across the season more or less follows a bell curve. There is little daily loss on either end of the season, and alot during the regular season.
* There may always be a whoopsie week in there but for the most part, it follows the plan.
Now. What does this mean for you ? Well, it's up to you to know what your recent loss has been. (Yay frequent testing). If you've been losing 2ppm a day lately, then being 6ppm above min FC is a 3 day supply. 2 ppm might last a week in the late fall, but only last 2 hours mid day on July 20th.
With a SWG, you tell it how long to run and/or at what %, to try and match the recent daily loss.
Your mission is to never sniff min FC for your CYA level. You also need to recognize *when* you are testing is almost as important as *what*. For example, testing in the morning and seeing a 6FC. The UV may burn more than your SWG is producing today, and you'll lose a couple ppm before the sun goes down and you start gaining FC again. The same 6 FC in the evening means you're only gaining until the sun comes back tomorrow. Either testing time is fine, or even mid day, but forsee whats going to happen and implement that into your gameplan. If you only run the SWG at night, the FC will swing similar to a liquid chlorine pool during the day with no FC added, and that needs to be accounted for when you test.
