The rock won't get done today. They only brought one dump truck today and it take almost an hour to empty before returning. This leads to a lot of idle time at close to 350 an hour. That should have been made clear to me up front. Sadly it's a detail I did not research up front.
Finally, it is on! Southeast PA Build
- Thread starter oakridge
- Start date
i just read you had a question re: the surge protection. surge only works per sub panel. meaning if you have one panel for ur whole house and the pool will be in the same panel then you can do a whole house surge that would cover pool. if you have a panel for the house and are adding a sub panel for the pool you need surge on the sub panel to cover pool. if you want full house and pool u need 2. it is recommended there is surge on each sub panel. it can't protect if only on main panel and then there are subs. make sense.
this is coming from experience when we build dedicated media rooms. our larger builds are isolated so we make the customer put in another sub panel just for audio and video so we can isolate it by star grounded. we add surge to that panel but make sure to tell the customer it is only covering his media room. we usually have another put on the main panel cause there is usually network stuff in that panel if not a separate panel for larger network needs.
sounds like overkill but there is much more to it. but it's how i learned about surge cause i used to say put it on the main panel to cover everything and learned about it that way.
jim
this is coming from experience when we build dedicated media rooms. our larger builds are isolated so we make the customer put in another sub panel just for audio and video so we can isolate it by star grounded. we add surge to that panel but make sure to tell the customer it is only covering his media room. we usually have another put on the main panel cause there is usually network stuff in that panel if not a separate panel for larger network needs.
sounds like overkill but there is much more to it. but it's how i learned about surge cause i used to say put it on the main panel to cover everything and learned about it that way.
jim
Makes sense, thanks. I am not sure how many open slots are on my panel. If I have a lot, the value of a subpanel is not clear. If I have a lot of room on the breaker, I'll stick with one panel.
Here are more pics:
Here are more pics:
- Jun 7, 2017
- 10,005
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I was specifically told that hitting rock was the only way my quoted price would increase. One thing about the slide is they are expensive and removing it should cover the rock and maybe some more decking.
you only need a sub panel if you don't have enough slots. then 1 surge. but if you didn't have enough space then you need a sub and have to decide what you want out of surge. house/pool or pool only.
For the surge protector I was looking at this based on the forum searches for similar.
Square D HEPD:
Square D Home Electronics Protective Device (HEPD)-HEPD80 - The Home Depot
Square D HEPD:
Square D Home Electronics Protective Device (HEPD)-HEPD80 - The Home Depot
Esloser
0
I didn't have a slide installed, but did get the plumbers to run the plumbing for one so that I could add one in the future. If you don't add it now, I'd recommend asking the plumbers to at least run the pipe and put on the valves. They charged me $100 on the day of the job to do it. I just went out to talk to the guy.
Also, you have a similar shaped pool to mine. I also added another bench on the opposite side of the deep end. You can never have enough places to sit and relax.
Also, you have a similar shaped pool to mine. I also added another bench on the opposite side of the deep end. You can never have enough places to sit and relax.
Gorilla83
Silver Supporter
- Jul 2, 2017
- 465
- Pool Size
- 33000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Yup, all done with the rock. Got 10% knocked off the extra days' cost. Here's what it looks like now.
Now I am thinking about adding splash down fountains to the sunshelf and upgrading to travertine coping.
The builder wants me to sign a waiver if I go with travertine as I have a SWG. Seems a lot people on here have that combination so I think it's ok. Hard to say as there is conflicting info.
Now I am thinking about adding splash down fountains to the sunshelf and upgrading to travertine coping.
The builder wants me to sign a waiver if I go with travertine as I have a SWG. Seems a lot people on here have that combination so I think it's ok. Hard to say as there is conflicting info.
Esloser
0
We added the slide stub to the deep-end on the front side of the pool. It's covered by an orange cone right now because it sticks up about 12". I plan on cutting it down and adding one of those hollow "fake" rocks to it to make it look nicer.
Thanks! Anyone have any thoughts about whether or not it is a risk to get the pool plastered so late in the season before winterization? I saw some comments saying that with the pool closing a few weeks after plastering the pool that pH and scaling will get out of control and ruin the finish (or make it not last as long). Is that true or can't I just add muriatic acid over the winter or do other things to keep the pool stable? Maybe holding off until November to close the pool?
Nectarologist
Well-known member
- Apr 3, 2015
- 642
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
For the waiver make sure it's limited to damage caused by the SWCG (which I wouldn't worry about). You don't want him to have an excuse to try to avoid issues related to installation etc that you need to resolve before resolving any coping issue. I'm sure it wouldn't be the case but just my .02. Great idea on the slide plumbing.
from talking to some other large builders in the NE where we live a few said september 1st is their cutoff for plaster so it can pretty much cure and then close. you would not start up the salt generator either till next year. you would just finish the season with chlorine liquid.
my requirement for my builder was to be plastered by the 15th of august cause i go away towards end of august and get back the last week of august and didn't want to chance hitting that sept deadline cause if rain or whatever.
just my opinion but maybe others will chime in.
this was my biggest concern. i personally would not plaster this year. you don't even have time for the shell to cure after unite. you need at least a solid 2-3 weeks at least. 28 days is better.
my builder was big on this. once it was shot my builder pretty much said don't bother me for 28 days. lol all we did during that time was plumbing and i poured my scratch coat for pavers.
i don't know this was just how i chose to handle everything.
jim
From what I have read, the gunite will continue to cure with or without the plaster for a very long time. Most of the curing (~80% or more) happens in the first week so waiting 28 days seems unnecessary. Do you have any thing you could point me to that says I should not plaster in the first or second week of August? Gunite is likely happening next week. I can hold off on closing until later Oct/early Nov. With these timelines, it seems many on this site have done plastering in the Northeast with no issues come the next Spring.
Esloser
0
I think our gunite cured for 2 weeks and then they added tile and coping which took another couple of days. Then, they poured the deck and I had to get the fence installed which was another week or so. So, it's was probably 3 weeks after gunite had been sprayed that the plaster went in. Actually, when I went back to my thread and looked at the dates of the post, it follows the below timeline:
8/11 was gunite
8/27 was tile and coping
8/31 was deck pour
9/7 was plaster
I did check my chemistry before and it was still rising pretty rapidly. Before closing, I did try and get it down to as close to 7.0 or 7.2. I don't know how long that lasted through the Winter though.
8/11 was gunite
8/27 was tile and coping
8/31 was deck pour
9/7 was plaster
I did check my chemistry before and it was still rising pretty rapidly. Before closing, I did try and get it down to as close to 7.0 or 7.2. I don't know how long that lasted through the Winter though.
Sigh...I am not sure after all the work of getting here if I can put this in hold. If plastered by mid August I am thinking it may be ok if I close late Oct.
Jimim did you end up plastering in August? Any issues after opening the pool the next year as imagine pH kept rising? I am going with a pebble finish so not sure if it will be more or less prone to scaling and higher pH.
I saw the quoted text below under a thread about "Gunite curing times", which leads me to believe there is a balance between the rising pH issue going unchecked over the winter vs waiting and plastering over gunite that has cured for around 7 months. I don't know enough about scaling and roughness during curing with Pebble finishes to make a clear call here. It seems safer to manage the pH for 2.5-3 months and then close the pool rather than have the plaster not bond well to the gunite that cured for so long (and maybe come falling off). I have also seen some suggestions that pouring in MA and running a robot might be a way to manage the pH over the winter. Will the robot circulate the MA well enough? The company that makes the plaster and the national plaster council (I think) says the first 28 days of plaster are the critical days during which I will have the pool still open. I need to research more these issues overall, but appreciate any further insight from the pros here!