Motel - New Pool!

I have a friend that works as a project manager for a roofing company. He came across this one... I asked him for the pic as I thought you all would enjoy it.

Motel - Freshly installed new pool! (Joking of course)
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Yes, it is on the roof. Yes, I know, you can't do that legally (well advertise it as a pool for public use, at least I don't think?)

Edit: Proof of the roof thing:
satimage.png

PM me if you need a roofer in the area. Preferably without a pool on it.

Stubborn Persistently High PH

I have a 2014 Sundance 880 Optima, ~400 gallons. It was not used in 2022, but was powered on and kept at temp. Last weekend I drained, cleaned and refilled it. When drained, there was a slight bit of plant debris in the bottom that had blown in through the side of the hinge in the cover, but very little. Drained completely and refilled with tap water (from a water utility, not well water). Since filling, the Ph has been persistently high according to both a Taylor test kit and brand new AquaChek test strips. Yesterday's readings were confirmed by my local pool store, so I'm confident both test chemicals and test strips are accurate. Note: test strips are only used to get the spa under control with most readings confirmed by Taylor tests. Chemicals used are a mix of brands. This is a new problem and has never happened before. The spa has not been used since being filled and the jests and air blower have only been run to mix in chemicals. Temp is 100. Spa is outside (NJ) but covered.

TC: 0.5
FC: 0.5
pH: 8.0+
TA: 70 (was 110)
CA: 9
Calcium Hardness: 140
Phosphates 2250 (no idea why)

I know the TC and FC are both low, but I was hoping to get the pH set first and then fix the chlorine. I typically use a pH stabilizer after I get the pH between 7.2 and 7.6 which I find makes it easier to get and keep the chlorine correct.

I used up some Robarb pH Down I had around and pH did not move. Clorox pH Down was the only brand I could get quickly and it has successfully blown the bottom out of TA (was 110 and after dosing yesterday is now 70) with no meaningful reduction in pH. It has shown some very short term reduction in pH (30 minutes after dosing) but after 2 hours or longer the pH is back up to or over 8. TA had fallen to 73 earlier in the week and I was able to raise it before trying to address the pH again, but adding the Clorox drops it back. Short of draining it and starting all over, does anyone have any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

IC40 Failure and advice on replacement/upgrade to IC60

My main issue is no light on IC40 and initially a tripped IC breaker in the intellitouch i9. It occurred when I was in front of the equipment and commanding a mode change spa to pool. IC40 lights on briefly then out.

I noted tripped breaker and attempted to reset....it held but I thought I smelled burning so secured power within a minute.

After looking inside panel I didn't see anything burnt so removed transformer low voltage lead to surge board (red header plugged single wire) , set to service, activated filter pump relay on i9 and read voltage from transformer low voltage secondary at 31.2VAC, green LED on, breaker holding fine.

Checked voltage on connector to cell, 27.3 VDC between red and black.

This reads a little low compared to forum posts here but decided to try it ...I deactivate all then plug cell back in and restartBreaker holds but no lights on IC40 and cell gets warm. Board does have bright green LED. I have old picture of board and compared to now and the slight discolorations around bridge rectifier had been there.

So questions involve what to change out and in what order and where to get it from.

Some notes to consider:

(1.) IC40 is original pool installer unit from March 2019
(2.) IC40 seemed undersized for my unscreened 30,000 gallon pool in central Florida. May when few clouds I had to run pump for 12 hrs to keep up and sometimes supplement with tabs.
(3.) Its ran either 10 or 12 hrs a day flawlessly but struggled to keep up in some months of year.
(4.) I estimates something over 15700 hrs of operation.
(5.) Recently I changed flow and thermistor sensor on IC40 to see if I could get my screen logic salt reading back. It did not initially come back but every so many days I would get a reading. So very spotty.

Questions:
(1.) Given breaker tripped I suspect surge board. Also given comm problems and slightly low readings seems like a good plan. Can I change that our first and connect to my old cell? Would I risk damaging my new $300 surge board.
(2.) local Pentair warranty service company seems to think this board for IC60 is different one from one for IC40 and quoted me $3,000 for it. I assume this was same board I have. Is that correct? The board I have will also support IC60? If so I think I see it on internet OEM for under $300.00 and copy for less
(3.) I dont seem to see that board sold by the TFP recommended vendor polytec pools often mention on this forum. I do see it here:
Surge board from Pools Unlimited
Is this correct board? Anybody recommend a better option, possibly one where I can get IC60 too?
(4.) Any reason to just change board alone then cell or vice versa?
(5.) I read on TFP no difference in warranty of if do myself on cells...board that way too?

Thanks all!

I attach some pictures

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMwbodaACooG56ULwV77A4Lw66XOgPUzcg4_Huy
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMwbodaACooG56ULwV77A4Lw66XOgPUzcg4_Huy

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Tile job recommendation for spillway between pool and attached spa

Hi,

We have asked our PB to redo our tile work on the spillway between our pool and attached spa two times for our pool remodel. We are curious of your assessment (quality, longevity of current condition of tile work, etc.) of the work done the second time? Would you recommend bullnose corners in the future? How hard would it be to redo the tile in the future without our new pebble plaster job being disrupted or completely draining the pool?

Thank you very much for your suggestions.IMG_4980.JPGIMG_4981.JPG

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Sand in the pool after new standpipe and new multiport valve

I have an in ground pool with a Hayward S-220T sand filter. Last summer I noticed sand coming in the pool from the return lines. The amount wasn’t huge and it was toward the end of the swimming season so I didn’t do anything at the time. When I opened the pool a few weeks ago I had emptied the sand, changed the entire stand pipe, previous one did have a smalll crack at the bottom of the base where the laterals connected. The new lateral insert I installed was the correct Hayward Part #. I followed the refill instructions, filled half full of water, covered the top of the stand pipe, put the lateral and pipe piece in and added the sand. When I kicked the system on I was still getting sand. I then bought a new multiport valve, hooked it all back up, still sand. I backwashed for a couple min to get the water clear in the glass, rinsed for a good minute, maybe two, same thing more sand. I’ve been running it just on recirculate for past 2 days thinking if the pool is sand free then I know it’s the filter, but I’m getting sand even with the just recirculating. Any suggestions? I would think if I had an issue with a leak in the return line the water under pressure would leak out and I wouldn’t get sand (return line runs pretty shallow under pavers sand) coming into a leaking line. I’m stumped. Thanks for any suggestions!

Question about Intex/Bestway Wall Mount Surface Skimmer

We recently put up Bestway pool. I replaced one of the intake skimmers with a Intex wall mount skimmer. However, after watching some videos of people installing it, they are saying that I need to "block" the other intake hose (on Bestway/Intex pools there is 2 intake skimmers). But I'm not quite sure how to do that?

Do I need something like this? 11237, Flow Reduction Adapter for AU AGP With 58946/58947
Would this work? https://rb.gy/egiiz

I'm just trying to make sure I have the best suction. Thanks!
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Blue cloudy water after opening and 3 consecutive days of <1.0 FC overnight loss

25K gallon, in-ground, vinyl pool
Opened last Saturday 6/10
Shallow side I can see the bottom, but it is very obscured
Deep side I can't even begin to make out the drain
Water is otherwise clear/blue

Tests:
Taylor K-2006 (T) at 7:30am today
Pool store test (PS) at 10:30am today

FC:
T: 12.5
PS: 10.0

CC:
T: <0.5
PS: 0

PH:
T: 7.4 (from last night when FC was 5.8 prior to bringing back up to 13.5)
PS: 7.4

TA:
T: 80
PS: 95

CH:
T: 110
PS: 81

CYA:
T: ~30 or just under (black dot still slightly visible)
PS: 33

TDS:
PS: 2600


Most years, the pool is crystal clear after just 3 days. This year, I have been SLAMming the pool for 6 days and it's still cloudy. The past three mornings the FC loss overnight has been between 0.5 and 1.0 and CC is <0.5 (using the 10ml sample technique so I'm not using 60+ drops for each test). I have been bringing it to 12.5 - 13.5 at night and it's been 11.5 - 12.5 in the mornings. I want to bring down the FC to normal levels now that my overnight loss is okay, but usually it wouldn't be cloudy at this point.

  1. Should I keep going with the SLAM levels or bring it down to normal FC levels now that overnight loss is good? Or do I want to see closer to 0.5 loss overnight, and I should keep going?

  2. I assume I don't need to be concerned about the pool store TDS reading of 2600 based on articles here. Is that correct, or is that part of my cloudiness problem?

  3. Should I raise my CH if I have a vinyl pool and no heater? It sounds like it is more of an issue with plaster, and I wouldn't expect low CH to affect cloudiness.

  4. I haven't done anything with the sand filter since I took over maintaining this pool about 5 years ago. Could the cloudiness mean I need to service the sand filter? I read once about adding DE to sand filter to improve filtration. Is that (or some other solution) a quick fix if I want to wait until next spring to change out the sand once it is dry?

  5. Do I just need to give it more time?


Thanks!

Cory

Automatic air venting for Pentair filter

I could only find a very old thread when I was looking for a way to automatically vent the air from my filter. So based on some information there I made one. The most expensive part was the brass vent itself (less than $11.00), the rest is a 1/2 inch threaded pvc T, two threaded st. ells, two 1/2x1/4 inch bushings, one 1/2x1/8 inch galvanized bushing (they did not have a pvc bushing in that size) and a 1/4 inch brass nipple. The only problem was that the brass air vent leaked slightly from the top rim and I am being sent a replacement. After I restarted the pump and bled the majority of air out with the Pentair valve I loosened the cap on the brass air vent and the rest of the air was exhausted. I have been checking it for the last few days and there is no air in the filter. I had been getting air in the filter for quite awhile but had not been able to find any suction side air leaks and I was getting worried that the filter would eventually blow up if I did not let the air out every day or two.
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Another cloudy thread✌️

Intex above ground 7000 gallon pool in wisconsin. Learned from this site how to maintain my pool 3 years ago and have truly been trouble free til this week. I use 12.5% liquid chlorine for sanitizer. I use intex’s largest sand filter. Backflush and rinse every sunday. Filter runs 12.5 hours evening til dawn. I have the intex zx300 “auto” pool cleaner always attached so it cleans when the filter is on and cleaned every sunday. Taylor k-2006 test kit with fresh reagents to test FC PH and CYA (thats all ive maintained over the years).

Early this week i noticed the water was cloudy. Coincidence or not, it was on the same day we got nasty air quality from the canada fires. I switched the filter to 24 hours on. No change the next evening. I reslized that i think i was testing FC using the 25 mark but dividing by 0.5, oops. I went into slam mode.

First evening slam
Cya 60
CC 0.5
PH 7.4
FC added to get 24 in evening per pool math app. Checked FC 2 hours later literally no change. Checked next morning (about 12 hours since start), FC is 23.4. PH was off the chart high i believe. Checked at lunch today (sunny today) FC 22.

Filter and cleaner are still on 24 hours. Do i just need to stay patient and continue to monitor FC?





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Ditching the Frog System in my Hot Tub

Ok, I am DONE with the Frog system! I bought a Saltron SWG mini. Drained the hot tub after using Ahhsome. Just refilled with fresh water. Tested the levels (pic attached) with my TF-Pro Salt test kit. Not sure how I am supposed to test salt though as that is NOT included in the instructions and I did not receive any test strips. Added 1 oz stain and scale, 3 oz baking soda, and 0.5 oz of Dichlor granules. What do I do now? I have searched the threads but I am just confused. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide🙏🏽

Hot tub is a Sundance Relay with about 350 gallons about 1.5 years old. We keep covered and temp around 99-101. Previously used Frog @ease in-line system but have had to Darin and refill about 6 or 7 times because of that system🤦🏽‍♀️

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Plumbing Help new pool owner

Hey everyone im a new pool owner and this is the plumbing from the previous owner its having some leaks around the pump fittings and the pump starts running dry after 10 min could it be because of the leak and does the plumbing look appropriate thanks

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Filling pool

I've had the pool for 5 years and had a company maintain it but they started doing a really bad job over the winter and it was green and awful this opening season and so I decided to take over myself.

The calcium levels were through the roof and it was so dirty that after a bit of work we decided to drain it and are in the process of cleaning the drained pool/pool deck area and are about ready to refill, and I realized I didn't know how anything worked, and I didn't know if I could fill the pool all the way and then worry about chemicals, or do I need to be adding chemicals as the water is being added?
Also, do I need to add a filter to the waterhose or can I just fill it straight from city water?

Pentair IC40 Comm Link Error

My son has a Pentair sun touch controller, IC40 SWG, manufacture date 8/09/22 with external power supply. The cell is producing chlorine and functioning normally with all lights steady green. The external power supply has a green light on the circuit board. The problem is the sun touch controller is not seeing any salt. In the swg menu #13 it shows swg enabled, pool 40%, spa 0%, then jumps to the super chlorinate screen bypassing the salt screen. Continue scrolling to the last display and it says salt 0 ppm (com link error). He uses k-1766 and it shows 3600 ppm and the k-2006 which shows chlorine is/has been good, 5-6 ppm. Probably not a big deal since everything else is working correctly but it just bugs me when something isn’t working. Is there a particular component that you could point me towards that might be the culprit?

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New Member with Algae

Waiting on my new test kit (tft100) to come in the mail so I’m relying on Leslie’s at the moment.

My pool has been relatively clear all summer. I’ve been using LC and leftover granules to keep the chlorine up. Even with the high chlorine and clear water, last week I kept getting algae and couldn’t understand why.

That led me to TFT and I’m going all in. Pool was green and is turning teal. Running filter 24/7. Backwashing and brushing daily.
Using LC (I have 10 bottles on hand) and took out the chlorinator float.

I’ve finally come to understand water chemistry and looking forward to testing my water with my kit and making adjustments as needed.

Currently my numbers are:
FC 8.67
TC 8.67
Ph 7.9
TA 47
CH 59
Ca 24

Hoping for a better pool season

This is Season #2 for my SummerWaves Elite 18ft. It has a skimmer/cartridge pump combo.
Last year we upgraded from a 15ft to the 18. In doing so I had to remove a massive stump, it was the size of a 60s Volkswagen Beetle. Between battling keeping the pool clean & leveling issues, we limped through the season.
This year I’m having the area professionally leveled & reinforced. I’m planning on buying a sand pump & the conversion kit. I’d also like to use the skimmer vacuum plate so I can keep the pool cleaner but I don’t know if it will work they way it’s supposed to.

With so many options and price points it’s a lot to take in.

Hayward heater

I've seen a lot and read about the the pf code, and what it could be I'm somewhat incline but I can not figure out how it can be reversed polarity, and heater is a year old pool been here for a very long time and had another heater in its place for 10 plus yrs before this one, have not changed one thing and all the wiring is the same I can't find nothing broken or corroded I'm really stumped my wife she's about ready to hang me by my toes if I don't get this fixed lol. She has ms she needs about 90 plus degree water. Plz post something asap if u know ty.

Heater Problem

Recently the message "Rollout Switch Open" came up on the panel of our heater. The pool company replaced the switch, but the next day the same message appeared (and pool is not heating). The pool company tells us the heater needs to be replaced or..... we can get an HVAC company to come take a look at it if we want.

Is this a problem that could require a new heater or.... do they just not know what to do? What is the likely cause? Will most HVAC companies work on pool heaters and know how to repair this? Incidentally, we have a bit of an air leak problem also. Not super serious, but we are getting air in the filters repeatedly. Filter psi is running about 15 and usually runs about 20. Could this have anything to do with the heater problem? Pool company tells me they are unrelated.

slightly Elevated CYA

So I'm going on day 6 now trying to Dial my pool in

18' round pool 7630 gallons
EC40 DE 1hp pump
Frog unit with mineral dispenser bac pac & torpedo pac

I started out Sunday with my phosphates very high about 2000PPb CYA elevated 147 PH very low 6.4 TA very low at 45 CH was low at 65 as well

the water was clear but my chemistry was all out of wack

To keep it short I have drained the pool down 10" on Tuesday then about another 12" last night

my tap's PH is 7.1 so I knew I needed to give that a slight bump

WED I added 3 lbs ok Baking soda to give my Alkalinity a bump

last night 2lbs of Soda ash after adding fresh water to give my ph A bump

I know pool store tests are not the most reliable I need to invest in a real liquid test kit they are a bit pricy so for now I am using the pool store test as a guideline

todays test came back pretty good I'm happy where two of the tests are

here are my results after dosing with Baking soda on WED and Ash last night after x2 drains of 10" and 12"

FC 7.24
TC 7.24
PH 7.4 came up from 6.4 which I am happy about
TA 80 which jumped from 45
CH is still low that is at 87
CYA this is my concern though it went down from 147 it is still at 119
Phosphates 524

so with the two small water dumps and adding the soda & ash I got my PH where I want and the TA is almost there the CA is still low and the CYA is still a bit high

Do you feel i need to do another water dump to lower that CYA even further

I've never had a such an out of balance pool when opening it before I've used the Frog for close to 4 years or so now with no issue(I know most guys on here are not a fan of the frog but I've never had issues with algae or cloudy water ever so I've just kept going with works to me the water feels very comfortable to swim in and sometimes not all the time when my daughter swims in another pool she has sensitive skin she gets a little itchy never with our own pool though so I've stuck with what works)

any way I cannot pinpoint where this CYA came from I have not changed anything except what I added to the pool when I first opened it for whatever reason Instead of adding a gallon of liquid bleach to open up and shock my pool I threw green out in.Throwing the green out in is the only thing I can think of that elevated my CYA levels as I did nothing different unless King technolgy changed their formula in their torpedo packs I'm thinking the CYA came from the green out

it is what it is now there is no way of removing it from what I hear without dumping water

From your guys experience given my pool size and filtering system do you feel I need to do another water dump

the pool sits in direct sunlight probably around 6 hours a day from about 12 noon once the sun comes over my Eastern tree line until about 6 or so once it ducks down in the West and my Gazebo starts to cast a shadow over my pool so its a good 5-6 hours of straight sunlight.

Like mentioned though I've never had issues before I'm just spinning my wheels this year trying to get this pool balanced out in the past I dumped a gallon of bleach in and I was good to go with minimal tinkering with the chemistry until this year which again leads me back to the one thing I changed which was going with the Green out


Thanks Guys

Failing T-15 SWG Cell Experiment

I am currently on my 3rd T-15 SWG cell for an 18 year old pool. The 1st cell lasted about 9 years and the 2nd about 4 years and just passed year 4 on the 3rd cell. I thought it might be useful to document this cell's behavior as it is going through the last stages of useful life. As time goes on I will update this post to reflect current status.

Early last year, I started to notice some odd readings from my "clean" cell. The average salt level was still reading close to what my Taylor test kit was reading (~3000 ppm) but after several minutes of running, the instantaneous salt level dropped to ~2500 ppm. Given the cell was close to 3 yrs old at the time, I suspected it was nearing end of life. Also, when I did an acid cleaning (1:5), I noticed that there was black dust left behind, perhaps some sort of oxidation. However, the cell did pass the pool store test so I could not file a warranty claim at that time and the warranty ran out soon after.

You might be asking yourself how the average salt can be that much higher than the instantaneous salt level. I believe this can be explained by the fact that when the SWG first starts, the amp level is initially much higher which means that the reported salt level is also higher and the unit probably takes a measurement sample shortly after SWG start. After 30 minutes of run time, the instantaneous salt level has dropped off significantly so there must be some type of adverse reaction (e.g. oxidation) going on at the cell plates that is reducing the current.

Jumping forward to this week, the average salt is now reading 2600 ppm with the test kit at 3200 ppm and instantaneous salt reading of 2000 ppm on both polarities. So definitely declining but not completely dead. Once the average salt decreases to 2400 ppm, the unit will alarm and shut off but by then I plan on changing the cell type to a T-5 to see if I can keep it going. Because the plate surface is failing which reduces current, less FC is being generated as time goes on. But at least I can compensate for this with longer SWG run times, up to a point.

But before continuing on with the 3rd cell, I thought I would first try to extend the life of my 2nd cell which is in even worse condition than the 3rd so I swapped these cells. On the plus polarity of the cell, the SWG has a instantaneous salt reading of 1800 ppm and with negative polarity, a 1400 ppm instantaneous salt level. I plan on running this cell until the T-5 mode no longer works. After this cell is completely done, I will swap back to the 3rd cell and do the same thing. I am interested in seeing how much extra life I can squeeze out of these two cells.

T-5 mode has been running for several days now and it seems to be working ok. The amps are +4.65/-3.5 which are quite low for 3200 ppm of salt level and the FC generated seems to be much lower than what I would expect from that amp level so I suspect the efficiency has reduced quite a bit which is to be expected.

[WEEK 2 - Cell#2]

T-5 Mode has been running for two weeks now without incident. The amps have dropped a bit to +4.2/-3.2. Run time is 12 hours at 50% with FC at around 5 ppm CYA at 70 ppm so I am upping that to a 75% setting to get it a little higher for margin.

[WEEK 4 - Cell#2]

Still on T-5 Mode with cell#2. Amps have dropped about 10% or so and efficiency has dropped as well. I am now running at 75% for 24hr with a FC at 6.5 so much less production than 2 weeks ago. Once I can no longer maintain FC of 10% CYA, I will need to move back to cell#3. I don't suspect it will be much longer.

[WEEK 6 - Cell#2]

Still on T-5 Mode with cell#2. Amps are now -2.5A/+3.5A and cell efficiency has dropped off significantly. The cell is maintaining a FC of 5.5 ppm with a CYA of 70 ppm or around 8%. This is at 90% setting with 24hr run time so a significant drop in production. I don't think I will be able to maintain sufficient FC levels for much longer. If it gets down to 5% of CYA or I start seeing water clarity issues, I will move on to cell #3 and call this one over and done.

[WEEK 8 - Cell#2]
Amps have dropped to -1.5A/+3A and the salt level is now reading below 2400 ppm so the cell is now shutting off. An 8 week extension isn't too bad for a cell that was in pretty rough shape. The cell was collecting a lot of calcium mush and needed frequent cleaning. In the end, I am not sure it is worth the effort and the additional runtime cost since I am tier 4 at $0.40/kwh but we will see what cell #3 does. I will be running cell #3 in T-15 mode until the amps drop below 5.

Cell pics are here:


[WEEK 2 - Cell#3]

Cell #3 has now been operating in T-15 Mode @ 45%/24hr for about 2 weeks now and cell amps are at -4.7A/+4.9A so much more balanced than Cell #2. FC is 6 ppm so over twice the production rate as Cell #2 at EOL which is consistent with the amperage and % settings. This Cell #3 was in better starting condition than was Cell #2 and I suspect it will last longer than Cell #2 did.

[WEEK 6 - Cell#3]
Cell #3 has now shut off due to low salt on T-15 Mode. What is interesting is that during the past week, the average salt level has been toggling between 2400 and 2300 ppm depending on which polarity it was running on. So it appears that the unit does not shut down until both polarities are below the 2400 ppm threshold. Current right now is running about -3.8A/+4.2A. I have now switched over to T-5 Mode and it is running once again. I am not yet getting the calcium mush like I was with Cell#2 but I suspect that will eventually happen as the Cell#3 gets closer to EOL.

[WEEK 14 - Cell#3]
With the drop in temperatures and solar elevation, FC usage has gone way down so the cell is operating pretty much the same as it was 8 weeks ago. So I suspect that it will last well into next season.

[Month 10 - Cell#3]

The old T-15 cell running in T-5 mode has finally been replaced after about 10 months of operation in T-5 mode. At the time of replacement, it was operating at about 3.35A of current and salt readings from the unit were getting close to the shut down threshold of 2400 ppm so I wanted to replace the cell before it shut off to avoid operation without the SWG in order to assess production rates.

The operational age of the cell in T-15 mode was around 50 months so an additional 10 months of operation in T-5 mode increased the lifespan by 20% which is not too bad.

When I replaced the cell, current went from 3.35A up to 6.31A and a week later FC levels went from 7.5 ppm to 9 ppm even with a change in SWG setting from 90% for the old cell to 45% for the new cell with the same pump run time (24hr). With the old cell, FC/CYA was 12.5% while with the new cell, it FC/CYA now 15%. A couple of weeks before the transition, I intentionally targeted a higher FC/CYA than was really needed to make sure there was nothing growing in the water so I could better estimate the production rate change.

By my estimate the cell production rate ratio of old/new was about 0.42 and since the old/new cell current ratio was 0.53, the efficiency of the cell must have dropped by an additional 20% that cannot be explained by just the current alone. Probably additional side reactions that are favored with the plates losing some of the catalytic characteristics due to degradation.

Back on TFP and need some help

Hi all, I was an avid reader and follower of TFP for some time when I bought my house with pool in 2016. I had everything super under control and water was sparkling like glass. Unfortunately life happens and disappointed to say pool maintenance became less of a priority. I continued to struggle with fine dust (here in Arizona) forming into almost like a mud at the bottom of pool and not being filtered out. No matter how much I vacuumed, cleaned cartridges, and repeated I could never get it all out.

I bit the bullet last weekend and drained the pool and refilled for a fresh start. Currently sparking clean and want to keep it that way again so I am back on the TFP wagon!! Unfortunately though I’m stuck with some stains on the bottom (tanish) of some sort in many spots. Hard to see on the picture below but you can if you look closely through the blue water (I pressure washed, scrubbed with chlorine tablet, scrubbed with pumice stone and couldn’t get any spots off).

Can anyone help identify what this might be and how to remove it from the surface of the pool? I’ll try and get a better picture and upload to the thread

Before I forget here are my chemical levels (using TFP recommended kit)

FC 4.5
CC 0
PH 7.4
TA 90
CYA 30
Temp 82


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Opening pool can't get Chlorine reading. Mystery challenge for veteran pool owners!

Hi I just opened my (supposed 10k gallon) pool in oklahoma and I just can't seem to get any chlorine reading after shocking every other day for the past week-2 weeks. Here are my readings from leslies.
this is my readings after triple cal hypo shocking the night before.
FC- .17
TC- .17
PH- 7.5
alkalinity- 103ppm
calcium hardness- 265
CYA- 31ppm
iron- .1
copper- .5
phosphates 0
TDS- 0
So you can see my free chlorine and total matches which is a good thing but still low FC. Now this is my Free Chlorine and Total Chlorine reading after shocking with 2 bags of cal hypo after an hour from shocking.
FC- .63
TC- 2.91.
You can see after adding shock that it is reacting in the water and I'm getting chloramines but it disappears after 3-4 hours. I have used 13 bags of cal hypo shock over the past 2 weeks and I have been zeroing out on both total and free chlorine after 4 hours. I've been trying to do the slam method but I hate throwing money away from shocking and getting nothing. My pool is green but clear so Idk if its algae or the copper causing it green.. I have been trying to use a non chlorine oxidizer shock to get rid of chloramines but it doesn't seem to help. I am desperate in trying to get a free chlorine reading. I have 2 tabs of trichlor 3inch tablets running in my chlorinator, I have 2 tablets floating in the water. I have a nature2 copper algaecide going (which I assume is for my high copper reading), I have water boatmen in my pool. I dumped a gallon of clorox algaecide + clarifier poly (Poly ethylene dichloride). I don't know what to do. only thing I can think of is try using leslie's chlor brite 4x1lb bags and seeing if that will help or just getting 4-5 gallons of bleach and try one last super bombing of the water. Can I shock with liquid bleach in the afternoon then use di chlor shock (chlor brite) later that night? need help thanks

Sta-rite 333k NG heater won't ignite

Hello all. I searched for many threads dealing with sta-rite heaters but don't see the same issue I'm having. Looking for ideas on what it could be and what to attempt.

Turn the pool pump on, let it do its prime and get to speed. running at 3450RPM with 50GPM flow. Turn the heater on.
Fan starts up
Heating blinks orange
Hear a click and smell gas
Heating orange light turns solid
Heater doesn't fire
No diagnostics lights on the fenwal
I stopped this cycle after 5 tries but it doesn't lockout or anything else.

Any ideas on what it could be? what to test for? I'm thinking igniter?


Thank you

Alex

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