I don’t want to keep spending so much on chemicals anymore, I use muractic acid as a ph reducer, but what else can I save money on? I have heard of people using bleach? I use the vivid and shimmer but it’s crazy expensive! Thanks

FC 1
CYA <30
PH yellow (<7)
TA 110

Pool has gone cloudy in 1 day! Had no idea my numbers were so out of whack.

Before I SLAM, what should I do about the pH? PH was 7.2 day before so I had already put in 1 box (1.84kg) of Borax.

Should I put in stabilizer before or as I’m SLAM-ing? I use the thick liquid one.

Thanks so much.

Hello everyone,

We have a Hayward EC65a DE filter that, for the last 2 or 3 years, seems to need to be emptied and refilled too often. We recently tried switching to fiber clear cellulose filter media, and found that the filter pressure rises in a matter of a few days, and that bumping the filter does virtually nothing. Upon disassembling the filter to clean, I noticed that almost all of the cellulose material was up in the top of the filter. The outer surface of the media was green, of course, but after breaking up the chunks, it became pretty clear that the previous bumpings didn't do anything, as just under the surface of all of the media was perfectly clean. It seems that, rather than coating the grids, the media just rises right up to the top of the filter, bridges the grids, and stays there until it is disassembled and cleaned.

We have soaked the grids in acid and in TSP to try to clean the grids, and it has made no difference.

Is there anything I can do to fix this, or am I simply going to have to switch back to the DE, even though it still basically does the same thing? Any tips are welcome.

Well it’s over 5 yrs old and stopped working. I took power supply apart and I’m thinking it could be the transformer because I’m not getting anything on the secondary. 120v in but no reading on secondary which should be 24 vac. A new power supply is over $800 and I’m not 100% sure that’s the issue but prob is.

it’s a shame because not a whole lot of cycles used on this machine. Not sure how many but not more than few hundred.

it’s prob my fault…..I left it plugged in and we had a few thunderstorms since. I was always good about unplugging when not in use but life got busy n I noticed the other day and unplugged it. Went to clean pool this morning and nothing. The green ON but didn’t light up. I tried pushing the ON/ OFF a few times and no power to unit. Power to GFCI , nothing tripped.

I tried looking for the transformer online but I don’t get any specific results. I’d hate to just throw it out and pay a few $thousand for a new one but maybe my only option. I realize a new power supply is cheaper than an entire new robot but is it worth it to spend $800 for an older model pool cleaner?
Any advice?

Good day I recently purchased a home with a pool. Problem I’m having is that i didn’t notice the remote to the system was missing. I have Jandy Rs system and I need the remote to kick the pump into the second cycle. It has an IAquaLink 2.0 system and I need advice into which is the replacement for it. Any help will be greatly appreciated

I was cleaning out our garage and found 6 jugs of liquid chlorine that appear to be 1-3 years old, 3 pounds of powdered Cal-hypo shock that appear to be 3-4 years old, and several pounds of HTH PH Up that is approximately 3 years old. I know that the liquid chlorine probably doesn't have much chlorine left in it, but could I pour it into my pool to get rid of it without it causing any issues, other than potentially increasing the chlorine level? I have a septic tank so I am not supposed to pour chlorine down the drain. Could I use the Cal-hypo shock sometime if it is 3-4 years old since my calcium level is not high? If not, can it just be thrown away in the trash or do I need to wait to dispose of it on Hazardous Waste Day in October? I'm also curious to know what the shelf life is on the PH Up that we have in our garage that is 3 years old. We only use PH Up at opening on an as needed basis, so I'd like to keep it if it will be good for awhile longer. If it won't be any good next year when it turns 4 years old, I need to know if it is okay to throw it in the trash now or if I need to wait until Hazardous Waste Day to get rid of it.

Hi-

I have an above ground pool, just getting it opened. I’ve added CYA- level is now 28 .
Had Combined chlorine, so slammed pool- brought chlorine up to 15.

Today-
CYA - 28
Chlorine level today is 9
Chombined chlorine- 0
PH- 7.4

Can kids swim with chlorine or 9? (Not ideal level for my cya, but ok since under slam of 12?)

Would you add more CYA?

How often do you test chlorine- how often do you add it on to keep it at a good level?
I was doing 4 cups chlorine per night last year, and that was getting old!

Thanks!

Hi

New pool 8 months old.
Getting chlorinator off / low flow , message , must have come on overnight. Pump is running no problems. Running it at 2760rpm
Have no idea what is causing this or how to fix it. Should I call the Hayward guy to come out?

I have checked skimmers , backwashed, emptied pump basket and eyeballed the flow switch. Not sure what else I can do? I am not very technically inclined.

Some questions
What are likely causes ? Could the switch go bad this soon ?
Could low salt cause this message ? ( I am out of salt testing agents waiting on my Taylor delivery) The auto reading on the panel is 2900 but is always shows a slightly higher number than when I test with Taylor kit
I have turned the cell off as I am guessing it's not good to have it on if there is no flow. Is this correct ?
My Chlorine is 9 this AM. I had it bumped up to 10 for a party . It is very hot in Texas and getting hotter by the day, at what point should I begin to add liquid chlorine ?

Grateful for any insight and help .

Jennifer

Hey there, this summer is the 7th for my Chlorinator an up till last week, always worked perfectly. Today I realized that the PPM reading is stuck to 300PPM even if there is enough salt in the water (an independent test shows 3000PPM). Of course, the generator refuses to produce chlorine with that (false) concentration of salt in the water...

I of course did a couple of instant salinity and average salinity manipulation, and the reading stays at 300PM no matter how many times I do it.

What is weird is that it happened all of a sudden, I mean, 2 weeks ago, everything was perfectly normal. Of course, I checked inside the cell to make sure it was clean - it was clean.

Does it mean I have to change the cell? Thanks in advance!

Hi all!

Our third start capacitor just went in 2 years. I feel like this is NOT a normal lifespan. I read the capacitor article and know they aren't made like they used to, but it still seems like a really short lifespan. Unsure where to start for troublehsooting why it may be going so often. We did contact the electrician who our contractor used (he was the only 'sub' out tradesman), but he is not interested in coming out. We are totally fine looking for another electrician, and I have a few messages out, but this is always my go to!

I know getting a SS pump was the wrong choice - could it have anything to do with that? We live in PA, so the pool is closed for winter. But it is open longer than the usual season for this climate as we open in March and close in Nov/Dec (for the dogs to use). We have a timer and I usually adjust it once or twice a season so it's on within an hour of sunrise/sunset. Our pump is not covered and is in full sun alllllllll day. Trying to think of what else is good info to share...hmmm!

Always appreciate any thoughts/suggestions - thanks!!

My Jandy salt generator flashes between no flow - low salt and eventually power cycles. I've done the reset but it didn't help. The one thing I haven't done is clean the cell. Would that cause this issue? The cell is probably 7 years old. Would a cleaning work or should I order a new one?

Still learning this pool life - we've had a crazy amount of rain over the past 2-3 weeks...like full on storms over 50% of the day. I recently installed a salt system and I've been dialing it in at the output needed. I noticed over the past few weeks I've had to significantly amp it up (like 75%) to keep it in the 5-7 range. Is that normal?

Just got a quote for $29K for 15x28 freeform Optimum with fiberglass steps installed, does not include electrical, permits or concrete around perimeter. It will be fully in ground. The company has 4.9 stars and all reviews are amazing. They have electricians and concrete people they recommend. It’s far less than than the Radiant pool quote I got close to $50K after all the extras. Curious for those of you with these pools - is it worth it? Any advice on set up or things you wish you had known before getting one? PS - I had a fiberglass pool put in at my last house, it was $25K all in! Those days are gone! Please - I need the advice! Thanks so much!

We are looking for an outside pool deck vacuum that can pick up everything from leaves to fine pebbles. We have an open pool with no cage, so lots of stuff falls on our deck. We would prefer a lightweight electric upright unit with really great suction. We have used several of the canister shop vacs, but the attachments are not wide enough for the area and don’t seem to provide enough suction to pick up the fine pebbles and they take forever to cover the whole deck area, not to mention the strain on our backs trying to bend so the attachments are lined up on the dirt. We would love to hear from more people with suggestions.

Hey,

This is my first time opening a pool and apparently just throwing in bags of powder shock isnt the solution. I purchased a TF-PRO kit and so far ive managed to determine my PH level is 7.8 and my TA is 90. As far as my CYA test went I filled the whole cylinder and was still able to see the black dot, not sure if that means I did something terribly wrong or not. Currently my pool is as dark and green as a pond and Id like to get it open before the summer is over hah. Thanks for any assistance in where I should go from here.

So my pool tends to go green and cloudy when it gets warm. I have adjusted the CL to the 8-9 range since testing but still remains. TA 210 , FC 8, CC0, CYA55, Ph7.2 85f.



12hrs after initial readings:
FC 4.5 CC 0 TA 210 CYA 50 Ph 7.5 Temp 85

Currently, I just tested CL and Ph and they are 5+ and 7.8 respectively. I'll do the full test later today as I'm working on homework right now.

I’ve been adding baking soda (now realizing I should be using soda ash) to raise the Ph but it’s being stubborn, how is my TA so high with my Ph so low? please help

We use 10% chlorine bleach as a sanitizer and follow TFP’s guidelines for maintenance and upkeep, but wondering if we can switch back to the chlorine pucks we used to use while away for a week. Thanks for your help.

Hi, The title is the question. I am trying to determine if I have a failing SWG. I do not know how old it is, only that I have had it for 3 years and picked it up used.

Do they fail all at once or just start producing less and less chlorine?

I know I can test it by putting it in a bucket. But really the question is in the title.

New build going on and the original spot for the pool equipment won’t work (too slopes and close to the stream). My yard is sloped and the pool cuts into the slope. On the low side there is a stream, and the high corner puts the equipment well above the water line (5’).

Our remaining option puts the equipment close to the main deck area (7 o’clock in the pic) and I’m worried about being annoyed by it. It will be a variable speed pump and a heat pump.

Do small fences/plants shield the noise well?

Pool heater will not shut at set temperature. Overheats pool. Sensors appear to be good.

FC 5.0, pH 7.6, Alk 60, CYA 60, CH 230, pool temperature 72 degrees

I hope everyone is having a great summer and enjoying their pool. I am just starting to run into a CYA problem.

At the beginning of the season (5/16) I tested my CYA and it was at 30. I tested CYA multiple times and confirmed it again the next day. My pool tests looked great through 5/31. At this time, I went away for a few days and put two pucks in my chlorinator, and had someone put into the pool 48 ozs of chlorine each day. When I returned, I took the remaining pucks out of the chlorinator. I only use the chlorinator when I go away. I did not check the CYA again until today. I was shocked to see that my CYA was now at 60!

I did notice that over the last few weeks, I was not using a lot of chlorine. I thought it was just the cooler weather in the east. The only other factor that I have been considering is that I have only used Walmart chlorine this year. The chlorine is called "Pool Essentials" with 10% sodium hypochlorite and 90% other ingredients. It was a lot cheaper than Home Depot. Could the Walmart chlorine have CYA in it like the pucks?

Can anybody else think of a reason why my CYA has been creeping upward?

Thank you for your help.

Sorry all, I posted before introducing myself

Proud (or maybe semi-regretful) pool owner. I've been maintaining my pool since it was built in 2010. I know enough to be dangerous, but I'm always learning. I have a 17K gallon salt water pool with mostly Jandy equipment. Aqualink PDA 5.0 that's still going strong. I've replaced a pump or two and too many salt cells to count.

Hopefully I can impart more knowledge than I acquire, but time will tell.

Hey Forum,

Last year I posted about a hairline crack with rust on my deep-end bench. I ended up mushing some pool putty over that spot and it has 'resolved' (hidden?) the rust.

This year, another bubbling rust spot about the size of a quarter showed up smack in the middle of the shallow end floor. I took the same approach and smeared some pool putty over the area, but the rust seems to have bled through. I'm trying to decide whether this is expected, and whether I should just keep putting coats of pool putty on until the rust goes away. I'm also seeing a lot of external articles (mostly pool repair shops) claiming I basically need to drain and dig out the gunnite immediately.

In re-reading my post above, I'm realizing the severity/urgency of this wasn't commented on, but not really discussed directly.

A replaster and possibly even a full pool renovation are definitely in the cards for us, but I was hoping to defer this job out about 5 years to allow sufficient time to save up.

I'm hoping for some experts here to help me with this choice -- if I'm able to keep the area somewhat sealed with pool putty, do you think my pool's structure can keep kicking for another few years (barring any new rust spots) or is the rate of decay and/or significant damage more time sensitive than that?

Thanks,
Sean

Hi all,

First time poster here.

My pool was built in 2010. The Aqualink PDA firmware says 5.0 on the display, so I am assuming that is the version. My old Stealth pump finally died (rusted out) and I have replaced it with the recommended ePump from Jandy (VSSHP270DV2A).

I am fully aware my Aqualink does not natively support variable speed pumps. The power hookup is straight forward, but my question is do I just attach the RS-485 connecter from pump to board? Is there anything else I need to set to get this to run properly?

Thanks in advance.

I noticed there is now a cartridge filter system available for pools. I currently have an 8 year old standard sand filter, with original sand, and a new Pentair Superflow 1.1 HP pump purchased last year. The pool is only 2300 gallons. We like the strong flow of the water, but the sand filter is difficult for me to open and maintain. I thought the Doheny's Pool Pro Deluxe 200 sq. ft. Cartridge Filter only would be a cool replacement. The pool is basically an indoor pool, with two users, an hour a day, and there is simply not much to filter. With such a small pool back-washing is a problem, as you can easily loose an inch or two... So my question is, will the cartridge filter restrict the flow, equal to or less than the current sand filter? Are there any drawbacks, or negative aspects of a cartridge filter system that I'm not aware of? I would like to have equal or more flow with easier maintenance. Thanks

Good morning! Having some trouble here in Iowa! Been struggling with high CYA(75 was it’s highest) tested myself and then took sample in to our pool guy and he confirmed. He told us to drain 12 inches of water out of our pool. So we did! Tested cya again and it was about 50. Ran test myself. This was all in a coup days time. We took water sample in again yesterday and they ran a test for me and my cya was 6. How is this possible? My husband took a picture of the test so I could keep numbers. I couldn’t believe it so I made her run the test again. I don’t have enough stuff here to test cya again here but I have some coming this week. I’m so confused and have no idea what to do now.

I have well water and my pool is really bad with iron. We have a 15,600 gallon pool. First year trying the polyfil trick but I feel like it’s not really pulling up as much as other pictures I’ve seen. We are using a transfer pump split between 2 tubs of polyfil. I see SOME stuff coming out, but I feel like there should be more. Is there a better set up for this? How long should I run the pump daily? And should I be using this filter method if I’ve added metal out?
I also have socks over my return jets that are pulling metal as well. I also read to fill your skimmer with polyfil, is this safe to do? I don’t want polyfil getting sucked into my system. Use a sock? Don’t do it? Do it?

TFP looks like an incredible resource. Glad I found it.

I have had issues with my OmniLogic since the day it was installed in 2019. It has been extremely finicky when I try to control
It from the app. Sometimes it would work and other times it would not.

As of current it does not work at all. I tried to update the MSP version to 4.8 from 4.3 and it is stating that the upgrade server is not available and check internet connect and date/time. I performed The internet diagnostic check and I am getting all green checks but I continuously get the same error message. I am hardwired with a direct cat6 run.

Any help would be appreciated to get the system to work through the app and make it more reliable.

Hello.
For years I’ve been dealing with air getting into my system after about 10 minutes of vacuuming. (At worst the pump basket water level gets down about half way but never lost prime) I changed everything including the vac hose, pump cover seal, etc. Today I decided not to use the closest skimmer but the other one and I found I was able to vacuum the entire pool “trouble free”. The skimmer I’m using has another outlet on the bottom for a water feature so should I plug that when using that skimmer to vacuum? I feel it doesn’t have the same sucking pressure as the other one.
FYI the skimmer hoses tie into each other before getting to the pump. Also what can I check for on the skimmer causing the issue?
Thanks!