Jandy ePump and an older Aqualink PDA 5.0

[Slarti]

Hi all,

First time poster here.

My pool was built in 2010. The Aqualink PDA firmware says 5.0 on the display, so I am assuming that is the version. My old Stealth pump finally died (rusted out) and I have replaced it with the recommended ePump from Jandy (VSSHP270DV2A).

I am fully aware my Aqualink does not natively support variable speed pumps. The power hookup is straight forward, but my question is do I just attach the RS-485 connecter from pump to board? Is there anything else I need to set to get this to run properly?

Thanks in advance.

 

[PoolGate]

Hi all,

First time poster here.

My pool was built in 2010. The Aqualink PDA firmware says 5.0 on the display, so I am assuming that is the version. My old Stealth pump finally died (rusted out) and I have replaced it with the recommended ePump from Jandy (VSSHP270DV2A).

I am fully aware my Aqualink does not natively support variable speed pumps. The power hookup is straight forward, but my question is do I just attach the RS-485 connecter from pump to board? Is there anything else I need to set to get this to run properly?

Thanks in advance.

That is correct. You could just upgrade your Aqualink though.

 

[HermanTX]

Hi all,

First time poster here.

My pool was built in 2010. The Aqualink PDA firmware says 5.0 on the display, so I am assuming that is the version. My old Stealth pump finally died (rusted out) and I have replaced it with the recommended ePump from Jandy (VSSHP270DV2A).

I am fully aware my Aqualink does not natively support variable speed pumps. The power hookup is straight forward, but my question is do I just attach the RS-485 connecter from pump to board? Is there anything else I need to set to get this to run properly?

Thanks in advance.

My old PDA with 5.0 did support VS pumps. See the photos. I went with a Pentair VS pump and it worked well. My old PDA showed it would connect to the ePump. I think the ePump does require the RS485 cable to work. I uses that with my Pentair pump to work with the PDA.

I eventually upgraded to the iAquaLink PCB and software.

 

[Slarti]

OK.

Mine looks a tad different.

My PDA seem much more dated than that, but not much. Which setting show the Pump info?

Also, thanks so much for the quick response.

 

[HermanTX]

OK.

Mine looks a tad different.

My PDA seem much more dated than that, but not much. Which setting show the Pump info?

Also, thanks so much for the quick response.

I am going on memory. Go to System Setup, then there should be selection for Pump Settings, then Pump Model. Once you set up as a VS pump then some of the menu settings may change to reflect the VS pump.

It appears the firmware of 5.0 is the same, just the J-Box which is the antenna is a slightly older version.

Or post pictures of your System Setup screen

 

[Slarti]

Ok. You were right. I do have "Var Speed Pump" under System Setup. I will need to research what to set. I am going to install now and see what happens. I'll post back results.

 

[Slarti]

Ok. You were right. I do have "Var Speed Pump" under System Setup. I will need to research what to set. I am going to install now and see what happens. I'll post back results.

So. First snag. I have a multiplier board and it has 1 free slot, but no quick connect adapter. I've read I can double up on these. Is this a good idea?


EDIT: I've confirmed in other threads that this is OK since the multiplexor is still off one com port.. each device has its own ID.

 

[HermanTX]

So. First snag. I have a multiplier board and it has 1 free slot, but no quick connect adapter. I've read I can double up on these. Is this a good idea?


EDIT: I've confirmed in other threads that this is OK since the multiplexor is still off one com port.. each device has its own ID.

Yep - 2 devices to each red connector is fine.

 

[Slarti]

Well, I did something wrong, lol. As soon as I flip all the breakers, it is stuck at waiting...

No Auto, Service or Time Out lights on... reset does nothing. PDA says "Waiting." I checked every connection I touched. The only thing I can think is that L1/L2 power need to be switched... they are both red. I have the green connected to the ground inside the base of the pump, not to the control board where L1/L2 are connected.

Back to the drawing board.

 

[Slarti]

More digging. The breaker for the system is not powering the board. So I must have loosened a wire somewhere.

 

[PoolGate]

You are powering the pump from your Aqualink load center right? I think that relay needs to be connected to the specific pump controller on the board. Otherwise there is nothing to turn that relay on and energize the pump.

You need:
Relay in the power center connected to the "PMP" port.
Relay in the power center connected to the pump circuit breaker.
4-wire connector to/from pump.

 

[PoolGate]

Links:

Go to page 43.

https://cdn.fluidrausa.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/0748-91071/6594.pdf?rev=8ef7e65bffb247efb962fe23e434b87e

 

[Slarti]

You are powering the pump from your Aqualink load center right? I think that relay needs to be connected to the specific pump controller on the board. Otherwise there is nothing to turn that relay on and energize the pump.

You need:
Relay in the power center connected to the "PMP" port.
Relay in the power center connected to the pump circuit breaker.
4-wire connector to/from pump.

Like I said, I knew enough to be dangerous. I have the RS 485 connected properly (I am assuming this is what you mean by 4-wire). The power to the pump does come from the aqualink load center. I have 3 breakers... one for lights, one for pumps and one for system. I don't understand the relay portion you are mentioning above.

Maybe I have to suck it up and bring in a pool guy.

 

[PoolGate]

Look at page 43 on that link. The relay you are using must be connected to the "F Pump" 2 wire relay connection port. That way when you turn on the pump in Aqualink, it energizes the relay which sends power to the pump.

 

[HermanTX]

Like I said, I knew enough to be dangerous. I have the RS 485 connected properly (I am assuming this is what you mean by 4-wire). The power to the pump does come from the aqualink load center. I have 3 breakers... one for lights, one for pumps and one for system. I don't understand the relay portion you are mentioning above.

Maybe I have to suck it up and bring in a pool guy.

We can talk you through the wiring. It is best if you take a picture of the relays (just like shown on pg 43). Your pump is 220V so does not matter which red wire is connected so long as one is connected to L1 and other to L2. There is a ground to the bar.

 

[Slarti]

Sorry, I do not understand how to do this. I am going to read up more on it... can't seem to find anything here or on Google that points me in the right direction.

Here's what mine looks like now...

 

[PoolGate]

Essentially aqualink needs a switch to turn on the pump. That switch is the relay. When you call for the pump, aqualink energizes the relay, which is just like a light switch. When it's energized it completes the path between the breaker and the pump. Power from the the breaker goes in the left side of the relay and comes out the right side to the pump.

 

[HermanTX]

Sorry, I do not understand how to do this. I am going to read up more on it... can't seem to find anything here or on Google that points me in the right direction.

Here's what mine looks like now...

If you are willing to try to resolve, please remove the face plate on the AquaLink box. once removed, (the 2 screws at the top) then the wiring and the relays will be exposed. Do not stick your hand in there and it is best to turn off the power to the box. We need to see where your pump wires are connected to the circuit breaker and to the pump relay (top left relay). Thanks.

 

[Slarti]

We can talk you through the wiring. It is best if you take a picture of the relays (just like shown on pg 43). Your pump is 220V so does not matter which red wire is connected so long as one is connected to L1 and other to L2. There is a ground to the bar.

Sorry all, still getting used to this forum and I missed a few posts...

HermanTX: Thanks, this is where I was struggling. Tell me which wires go where and I am good, lol.

Here are pics of my system:

 

[Slarti]

If you are willing to try to resolve, please remove the face plate on the AquaLink box. once removed, (the 2 screws at the top) then the wiring and the relays will be exposed. Do not stick your hand in there and it is best to turn off the power to the box. We need to see where your pump wires are connected to the circuit breaker and to the pump relay (top left relay). Thanks.

I am comfortable with electrical. I wired my own garage with a sub panel and added 220 for some tools... I can read electrical diagrams to an extent, but I was my concerned about messing up and frying vs. the attempt.

But thank you for the legit concern as I am sure many are not.