PoolStored said:

How often are you testing FC and adding chlorine to get your FC back up to SLAM level?

Have you removed the ladder and cleaned it? Even inside the tubes with a brush? If not, do that.

Do you have a light? Have you removed it and scrubbed behind the light? If not, do that.

Did you check and scrub the skimmers? Did you check the weir doors for algae? If not, do that.

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I test FC at 6 AM and 9:00 PM if not more every day. Ladder is out. Skimmer and weir doors scrubbed. Is it safe for me to unscrew the scres holding in lights myself? My pool is on day 13 of SLAM. The water and vinyl liner are SOOOO clean! I'm so exhausted! We backwash....could there be something in the sand? I'm nervous about the safety of opening my Pentair up.

Greetings.
My single speed pump is not working cycling on and off making a noise that sounds like a electrical surge. I already replaced the capacitor (2 different ones to be sure) with no luck. The pump starts and runs for about 2 minutes then starts the on/off surge noise routine. I shut it down.

My local pool store is booked solid until August 8 so in the mean time I am trying my best to keep the water circulating using a small Harbor Freight pump and a garden hose and running my robotic cleaner daily.. I have the chlorine level on the high end (8-10 PPM) and the CYA is at 60. TA is 100 and pH is 7.6. Hoping to make it until they can either rebuild the existing pump or replace it with a variable speed pump that ties into my pentair automation system.

Here is my issue. I installed a solar electric system on my home a year ago and therefore electrical cost savings from the VSP is not an issue for me. The options I face are 1) rebuild existing pump (new motor, etc) for about 900 dollars all in with a 1 year warranty or 2) replace it with Pentair VSP for about 2,800 all in with a 3 year warranty. Since energy savings is not a big deal for me (I generate much more than I use), I am inclined to take the rebuild alternative.

Based on my circumstances, is there any reason you would not take the single speed rebuild alternative and if so why?

Is there anything else I can do over the next 10 days to keep my pool from getting cruddy?

FC has become increasingly more difficult to balance since a bag of salt dropped in a couple of weeks ago caused it drop overnight. I discovered it immediately, topped up FV and It passed the OCLT at that time, but I’ve noticed my SWG is not working as it should. Super chlorinated for 24 hours with a rise of only a few ppm yesterday. so performed OCLT again last night which failed. Water is clear. I can’t understand what’s happening with this pool right now. Only drop in FC was that one incident which I found immediately and fixed. I clean my filter monthly, although will do it again today. I maintain my FC 7.5 - 10% of CyA. I keep CYA between 60-70 (my pool is enclosed with UV protection screens)

Just brought pool to SLAM level and will do that until it passes the OCLT. Ugggh.

On another note, Can I add some salt while slamming? Lots of rain has it at 3000 and I thought better to risk contamination while at slam level, rather than once it’s good again.

The Pool Math app says Alkalinity should be between 50-90. Is that the tested alkalinity # or the adjusted alkalinity #?

Hello,
I have an approximately 27,000 gallon chlorine inground pool. It has an elevated spa where, during filtration, it overflows to the pool.
The system I inherited includes a dual speed Hayward pump that needs to be replaced (motor is SPX3220Z2BER 2.0HP/2.total) , pump is SP3200Z16 revD). The issue is, due to California restrictions, it appears I can find no vendor to provide just a replacement motor.

My only options, appear to be to upgrade to a VS motor (which I would like to do anyway) but my control unit is an older Hayward ProLogic which I am finding out will not work for that conversion.

So...long story short, does anyone have any suggestions based on my limited choices being in CA? The cost for an entire new system is prohibitive but unless I drive out of state to buy a dual speed it appears I'm not seeing many options.

Thank you in advance for any/all help!

So I know at initial setup you turn off the SWG for 24 hours but what if your salt level is getting low and you want to top it off to bring it back up. Do you still turn it off for 24 hours?

Thanks!

Hi all! Four year pool owner, first time maintainer here. Since we purchased our home in 2019, we've had companies coming to open/close and maintain the pool for us. I'm getting into learning how to take care of things myself. We have a 30,000 gallon, in-ground, plaster pool located in Northern Colorado. It's currently filtered with a Triton-II TR60 sand filter, but I've been advised by others I should consider a DE filter. Mostly looking to get my head around maintaining our current setup, and then I'll look into possible upgrades. We've had some issues with algae this year, which is what led me to the forum here. Mostly small growths on the walls, not full on blooms. The pool has been maintained with chlorine tablets, which I now understand are likely raising my CYAs and causing a need for more FC. I have a TF-Pro test kit en route (once the magnetic stirs are in stock) with a SLAM option, standard sampler and pH meter. Lots to learn, but happy to be here! Looking forward to a trouble free pool!

I have been reading many threads about pool automation. I am like everybody else: sticker shocked shocked at the prices of the commercial automation. My current system is a modified Intermatic PF1202T timer. {The left wheel runs the SWG and power to the heater. The right wheel runs the booster pump. The pool pump is directly wired and is not controlled by the Intermatic timer}. The remainder of the equipment is: a Black & Decker 3hp VS pump, a Pentair 400K heater (previously Pac Fab), a Polaris 280 with booster pump, Pentair 48 SQ FT DE filter (previously Purex Triton). I recently purchased a Sonoff' 4CH Pro R3. I have been trying to program it with the automation adapter for the Black & Decker pump. My question is when programming Sonoff I can put it in speed 1,2 and 3. Reading previous posts' it was stated that speed 1 has priority over speed 2 and 2 over speed 3. Correct me if I'm wrong. If this information is accurate. Than I should be able to plug in speed 3 from 7 AM to 7 PM @1000 RPMs. Speed 2 10:45 AM to 2:45 PM @2500rpm. The speed 1 @1500 rpm from 7 AM to 10:45 AM. The other option is to use the EwLink ap on my phone & and program each speed back to back. Speed 1 from 7:00 to 10:45 AM at 1500 RPMs, the 2 from 10:45 AM to 2:45 PM at 2500 RPMs, speed 3 from 2:45 PM to 7 PM @ 1000 RPMs. Any feedback is greatly appreciated, thanks.

I have had a drip at the heater inlet gasket and when I took it off I saw a lot of corrosion (photos attached). No problems in the heat exchanger itself, as far as I know.

I've sprayed some CLR all around and scrubbed the rusty parts with a toothbrush. Is there anything else I can do? Is there a way to treat the metal parts so they don't get worse? Can i spray high heat paint on these parts? What about the inside?

One thing I noticed is that the bolts were zinc bolts that are complete rusted. I will replace these with stainless.

Hi all. I’m replacing the impeller on my Waterway 1.5 hp pump. Two questions:
1. The shaft was fairly rusted where the impeller attaches. I sanded most of it off but not sure if I got enough of it off. How can I tell if the impeller is seated far enough? It is plenty tight.
2. I cannot get the face plate on over the end of the impeller. It appears slight larger than the hole in the plate. Also, is it possible there wasn’t a wear ring? Ive taken the face plate off numerous times to clean out the impeller and never recall having a wear ring. Is it possible that it melted and fused to the face plate, or do some pumps not have them? If it did melt, it is really smooth and seems like one piece.

Any advice?
Thanks in advance!

We have a 30,000 gal in ground pool with a 1 hp hayward super pump and a sand filter.

Drawing only from the 2 skimmers we get no air visible in the pump housing during operation, but when we open the main drain inlet to the pump, we get a flood of air bubbles - really a torrent.

1. I know it seems obvious that there may be a break or a crack in the main drain line between the bottom of the pool and that diverter valve just before the pump intake, but is there any other possible explanation? There are no known water leaks or unexplained water loss.

2. If you can keep the pool clean just drawing from the skimmer baskets, do you really need to open the main drain during normal operation?

Thanks for any expert tips!

Out of the country starting Friday for about 7 days.

A friend is coming by to clean and skim the pool when we are away. Don't want to involve him in testing etc the two or three times he comes, so I may just put the SWCG setting to where it'll continue to increase my FC overtime and when I get back, I'll either turn off the SWCG and let it drift or curse that I'll have to SLAM lol

In the Pentair App, when I look under devices, I see the 8am-8pm schedule for my pump and 9:30-midnight for my light, but neither schedule is working. When I go to the Schedules tab, it says I have no schedules. I can control the pump and light from the device tab, so it's definitely connected. What am I doing wrong?

I have a Coleman 22x52 AGP. Intex 16" Sand Filter, Intex QS1200 SWG.

I started noticing a brown residue building up around the rim of the output of the SWG. It's also present in the hose returning to the pool, and the inside of the jet.

The water doesn't seem to be affected. Chlorine, pH, Alkalinity, CYA are all within acceptable range. I did have a period where the pH and Alkalinity were very low, but they've been brought up to where they should be now.

Any tips for removing this?? Should I be adding something to my water to prevent this??

TIA

I used the HTH Green to Blue. The first steps were great. Then came the red/brown FLOC! I have managed to get it to stick together some using something my pool store (this is not a chain but private owned) recommended. I have vacuumed to waste several times and have had to replace at least 7 inches of water so far. I still can't get this dusty powder out! Please help! I am at my breaking point.

I am so relieved to find this website! I've been taking care of my in-ground pool since my husband died in 2018 (pool built in 1988), and I thought I was getting the hang of things, but it's getting ahead of me, so I'm really looking forward to digging into these wonderful resources.

Hi all, which is better? Borax or Soda ash (same as baking soda?).
Does a solar cover effect PH?
Thanks.
FC 4
CC 0
PH under 7
TA 100
CYN 45
Water temp currently 80.

I have had many pools but this is the nicest and biggest pool I have ever had. As a matter of fact the last 3 have been smaller intex pools.

I just had the bottom elbow assembly fail for me on my really old Hayward S244S sand filter. I was able to find the parts online that I *think* will fix it, but it'll be in the neighborhood of $250 by the time I get the replacement parts + replace the laterals while I have the sand out (plus the cost of sand). Anyway, this gets me to thinking, is there any advantage of replacing the whole thing instead? Looks like a similar brand new one can be had for around $600. What do you usually see for a lifespan of a filter like this?

Thanks for any input!

I recently noted my Pentair salt system stop working. All the lights on the cell are off. I noted the 12v breaker inside the easy touch keeps tripping every time I try to reset it. I removed the upper panel and noted the small connecting board was not lit green. When I unplugged the salt system from the bottom of panel the breaker would reset and the green light would be on. I inspected the cell and noted no issues but I acid cleaned it anyway. Still no power to the salt system. Any other options I may have? I hate to think the cell is bad. Its a little over 5 years old.. Thanks in advance.

I am new to this forum and have enjoyed reading a number of threads about air bubbles in return jets. But, thought I would contribute my situation and see whether there is need for concern. After many years of single speed pump usage, I made the transition to the Pentair Intelliflo2 VSF. The installation was done by a large, national chain store and for the most part, I am pleased with the level of service and the redesigned plumbing. The installation included the pump and four Pentair diverter valves. (wish I would have specified Jandy..) I am getting accustomed to the broad range of operating parameters but, regardless of operating speed, I get tiny air bubbles coming from the pool/spa returns.

The bubbles are seen at various speeds I have tested: 100%, 70%, 50% and 35%. All indications point to a suction side leak. The installer came back and check a number of things but in the end said it probably is not a problem and to keep an eye on it. My biggest concern is the gurgling and chattering I hear in the pump. Is this normal for a VSF? Or, is it cavitation? The installers used a clear pipe glue which I had never seen before. After installation and startup, I found a few wads of glue residue in the pump basket and in the pool. Could the impeller be clogged ?

Other comments: I tried running the pump at full speed; then, turning it off to detect spurts of water from suction side of plumbing. Nothing there.
I also notice quite a bit of gurgling on the return fitting coming out of my ancient heater. The inline chlorinator has a one way check valve that is quite old and wondering whether it could be the source of the problem.

Like other posts I've read, it is not unusual to see a fair amount of air in the pump basket; something I never experienced with a single speed. When the pump starts, it goes into priming mode and fills the basket. During that period (and a short period afterward) I see a very large amount of air come from the returns. Once the pump settles into normal mode (70% and then 50% later in the day), that's when i see continuous, tiny bubbles.

Thanks for reading. Hope to see some interesting responses and start learning about more ways to ENJOY ~!

Hello, we purchased our pool last September, and this is our first summer with a pool. We are having trouble with maintaining levels.

I want to add some calcium to my pool. What is the percentage of calcium chloride to use. Some pool products say active ingredient 100%, others say on average 97%. I am sure 100% is ideal, but i have some ice melt which says 94% pure calcium chloride. My only concern is what the other 6% is. The Pool math app doesn't mention the percent of calcium chloride, just how much to use to raise ppm. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

Hi folks - hope this finds you all well.
My pool has been on autopilot for a while till last week when I realized the SWG (IC60) wasn’t producing chlorine.
I’ve been getting FC readings of/near zero for a week+. Water is perfectly balanced. No CC or algae. SWG cell “looks” perfect - all green lights and when the cell light is on I even see some bubbles at time indicating it’s operative. However, no chlorine in the pool (even keeping the IC60 at 60%+ which is way oversized for my pool and pump running 24/7).
Totally buffed.
The only thing I noticed is that since a month ago the salt reading on the intellicenter wall unit has been slowly going down (now at 3000) but two separate tests (Taylor and strips) confirm it’s still 3600ppm. So this suggests to me there’s something wrong with salt sensor (on intellicenter or intellichlor?) and perhaps this is preventing chlorine generation? The SWG is not indicating low salt.
The cell itself is new - installed last year - which makes me think it’s the intellicenter perhaps?

Such a mistery I’m at a loss.. any suggestion?

I have been running my SWCG for three months, I have to say I love it. One question is, everywhere I read stated I would be chasing my pH. I have yet to have a reading other than 7.5. I am using the tf-100 kit for reference. I got the RJ-45+ for my 24k gallon pool, and I actually run it at 15-20% to keep my FC between 3-6. My VS pump runs 24/7 at the preset middle speed, and I'm saving at least 200 a month on electricity vs my old pump. I could not be happier, and the only thing I have had to do this year is add some salt and CYA due to some rain storms that forced me to drain a good amount of water a few times. Am I missing something, or do I just need to wait longer to watch my pH climb?

Hello,

What a wonderful community here. I've attempted to search, and found several Q2100 threads, but I'm not finding one about my specific concerns, so I'm attempting a post.

We own an INTEX 26367EH Ultra XTR (24ft x 12ft) w/a QX2100 Krystal Clear Sand Filter Pump and SWG (w/ECO) we did the initial setup this past weekend, and I've added the 210 pounds of salt recommended by the manual. I've also added ~5lbs of backing soda as I try to balance my Alkalinity.

The pool has been up for four days, and my current test strip results:

• Total Hardness: 100
• Total Chlorine: 0
• Free Chlorine: 0
• pH: 7.8
• Total Alkalinity: 80
• Stabilizer: 0

For the life of me, in the manual although there are mentions of 'initial setup', it never completes the thought of what are the initial programmed settings until the pool achieves 'normal'. Until I can learn more, I've been doing the 'operation instructions', which just say to run the filter for ~8 hours at night and set the chlorinator to run for ~8 hours at night too. I believe I need to get from 0 Total Chlorine to 2.5/3 quickly. I live in Colorado, the water is presently 82 degrees, and the outside air temp is 97.

My core questions are:
1. Does anyone own this Pump/SWG? If so, what are the first things to do for a fresh setup? Should I be pressing 'Boost', and if so, for how long should I set it?
2. Am I in too much of a rush? How long should I wait for the total chlorine levels to hit 2.5/3?
3. Should I add some other form of chlorine to 'get the chlorine up quicker,' or am I worried about things that don't matter?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Recently I had an issue with CYA Being too high. We were using stabilized pucks with cal. Hypo to chlorinate our pool. We were never told by the pool company to drain the pool till it was way too high and our pool was cloudy. Long story short we drained the pool and now CYA is 50. But according to the calculator we need FC to be at 6ppm? Is that way too high to swim in? I read on some sites recommended safe level is 3ppm or 4.

While I await my new Pro test kit from TFP, I’m maintaining water chemistry as best I can with strips and pool store readings. I’ve been dealing with a bout of brown(?) algae (looks like sand but clouds up at a brush)that has had me at my wits end, I vacuum, sweep, chlorinate, etc and it keeps coming back but I’ve got it down to a much smaller amount. It did cover my entire pool bottom last week. I’ve been getting my ph down from 8.1 to mid 7 since this past Sat and looking forward to my first SLAM. I need to get my CYA up as well. The pics are after I’ve swept to waste 3X which is getting H2O expensive and I’m hoping I can take care of this little bit with SLAM? Any suggestions before I take off?

The lights on our Dolphin power supply flash on and then immediately go off. Any ideas why this could be happening?

Hello! Year 3 of my pool ownership. Have become savvy on chemistry but have NOT tried borates yet. Have a 13,600 gal salt pool and ph keeps rising all the time. Southeast Michigan. Would like to add boric acid so I don’t have to add a ton of muriatic acid after. Pool calculators online say I would need 45 lbs of boric acid! Is this legit..45 pounds??? That’s like 12ea $20 bags for $240. I just need a sanity check that this is legit??? Benefits seems amazing. If I don’t have to add acid every week to keep ph in check, and also get sparkling looking water I am down. But want to make sure I am making a good investment. Thanks!