I have a bit of a weird one I can't seem to figure out.

I use two stenner pumps to run liquid chlroine and muratic acid to keep my FC/PH in check.

I have never had SWG and have never used salt of any kind but I do live about 50 miles from the gulf of mexico (houston area)

Salinity 1820 ppm
FC 3 ppm
pH 7.4
TDS 1780 ppm
CH 280
TA 40

I do have some calcium scale build up on the tile around the water line but I can't seem to find anything to suggest this is the cause of the salty taste. (I plan on remedying this soon with some MA spray and elbow grease)

Any thoughts where this salty taste could come from?

I need to close my pool by Friday night; we ask friends to help get the cover on and I need to ask them in advance.
I am confused (about a SLAM) as I read through many posts.
Here's my situation, I'd like some advice.
This summer the chlorine numbers have stayed stable. The time I did a one-night SLAM, it held the OCLT but it took several days to get the chlorine down.
Here are my questions:
1. Do I need to do a SLAM before closing? Or can I bring it up to FC: 5 and put on the cover the next day?
2. What should the CL be when I put on the cover (woven solid cover, with water bags)? My real concern is weakening/damaging the cover (happened in the past) when the CL is too high.
3. I usually use Polyquat60. I read that the CL should not be high when it is added. What is too high?
Thank you!
Test data tonight:
FC: 2.0
CC: 0
ph: 7.5
TA: 95
CA: 9 (vinyl)
CYA: 35
IG 20K vinyl liner, use liquid chlorine

Hi everyone! I’m picking my finish this week and am having the hardest time finding an accurate picture of Stonescapes Aqua White with (and without) Touch of Glass

All photos online seem to be edited.. and the forum with all the colors is not easy to sort through.

If anyone has photos of Aqua White with glass please post!! And any feedback on the finish would be wonderful. Thanks so much!

Might be sabotage, dun dun dun

Login to view embedded media

What do ya'll think about these gizmos making the rounds on social media?
Solar powered copper ion devices.
Think I'll keep my money in my pocket.

I have rapidly reach the limits of my competence. I’m a new pool and hot tub owner (both came with the house I purchased in April). I have not touched the hot tub until the last several days. The previous owner said something was wrong with some of the jets but didn’t know and didn’t want to fix it. The hot tub is a Nordic Encore.

So fast forward to two days ago and I started my investigation into this hot tub. First, I drained it, cleaned it, removed the jets, cleaned them, removed the filter and cleaned it, so on and so forth.

This afternoon I filled up the hot tub from the filter port to avoid air pockets (which it appears I did). I got the water level to the appropriate level and turned on the pump. Only to find that two of the seats and the lounge seat have weak water pressure while the rest has strong water pressure.

This is where I am completely stump. I do not believe it is the pump as I have strong pressure on three of the 6 seats. Any help would be appreciated. I’m trying to avoid calling in a “professional.”

I had a whisperflo VST installed today to replace my intelliflo VST. We can’t figure out how to connect it to the intelliconnect. Please help!

Swimpure with t-3 cell. Reads 29.2 V, .82 amps , 800 salt.
Turn switch to off for a few seconds then back on, Reads 27V 2.57 amps, 3000 salt, then, after a few minutes, reverts to above readings.
3000 salt reading is correct.
Salt cell bad or Control Board??
Thanks!

I have two related questions regarding tile and grout.

In-ground 13,000 gallon gunite chlorine pool.
Location: McKinney, Texas
Pool Age: 18 years

Q1: I've had one small section of 4 tile pieces that have fallen off. What would be the best product to re-attach the tiles? Since it's just four small pieces, I don't need a large quantity of anything. Just needing something that effectively holds tiles to gunite.

Q2: I've noticed in a few spots that the grout has eroded away. Most specifically at the three waterline fountains and at the grate. So, what product can I use to fill in these gaps. Not sure why it's eroded in these areas, but I assume these are vulnerable connection points and we've had some brutal winters and summers so maybe there's been some shifting.

I'm guessing I'll have to drain the pool a few inches to do these repairs?

Thanks.

First year pool owner, reading on this site I will be getting a TF PRO Kit next season. But below is a posted photo. Am I understanding this correctly? I have zero free chlorine? TC = CC - FC Also, CYA is high and I plan on doing a 23% change this weekend Appreciate any insight thanks

I am looking at buying this cleaner but i cannot find it for anywhere below $1899. I saw in previous post/sales it sold a few years ago for aroun $1599, anyone have any sites that are selling this cleaner for cheaper than the $1899. Thanks all! First post here, look forward to many more.

Had a new whisperflo VST installed today because my intelliflo VST croaked. When we turned it on the salt cell started leaking a lot. Pool repairman says it’s not the switch but from the inside and needs replaced. Would pressure from the new pump cause this?

I am having trouble with my pump and I cannot turn the motor shaft manually at all. It mostly will not start at all, but when it does it will run for about 30 seconds with a high pitched sound (kind of like very loud cricket noise) and then shut off again. Should I start by replacing the capacitor even though the motor shaft seems to be stuck? Just looking for the best place to start. Thanks for any input.

I am having the same exact problem now. I added 4 gallons of shock yesterday with two yellow containers as instructed. I have 30,000. Each container is for 15,000. Completely removed all the yellow dust algae but now I have zero chlorine. Added a gallon today and waited an hour for circulation and took another reading. Still zero chlorine.

How much did you have to add before getting chlorine readings?

We recently replaced our solid safety cover with a mesh cover (going mesh saved us money which is one of the reasons we chose it). We have no internal way to drain our pool below the skimmer...will that be low enough to last us during the winter without an overflow? We live in northeast Arkansas, and plan to open in late April or early May.

New pool owner here. Old pool, old equipment.
We are experiencing air leak, on suction side, I think. The filter canister seems to bubble with incoming air when the pump is shut off, and has to be bled to get suction at vacuum port.
Also unable to separate skimmer and vacuum, which is a new development. Pool store suggested the first 3way valve diverter was bad.
All 3 valves have had diverters and o-rings replaced, as a first step elimination. But air still collects.
This seems to be a tangled mess, that I am hoping to replumb, without all of the elbows. It looks like previous owner has already added and subtracted at the valves, making use of adapters, so I'm thinking we will need to replace the valves, anyway. Yes?
Looking for advice that isn't super expensive.
Thanks in advance!

12,000 chlorine pool, been using the pucks for about a year now. i know, i know, CYA can go up, i have now discovered, thereby needing higher levels of chlorine. i know the ideal solution is to empty part of the pool to get rid of some of the CYA. im wondering if there are any other options besides this that anyone else has had luck with. starting to see some yellow/green spots in corners, nothing horrible, but i can see it starting to proliferate.

i dont have the test kit that TFP members like, i will get it soon. so in the meantime, took pool water to Leslies and this is the data reported

FC - 4.45
TOTAL CHLORINE - 4.45
PH - 8
TOTAL ALKALINITY - 65
CALC HARDNESS - 216
CYA - 115
PHOSPHATES - 453
TDS - 700

i saw this product while at leslies. does this work at all? or is the only option to empty pool and start using liquid chlorine?

We are looking to buy a new cleaner just as soon as possible. We are deciding between the Dolphin M600 and the Active 60. Has anyone ever compared the two?

Our pool started to get randomly cloudy a week or so ago. I checked everything and the water was balanced had plenty of chlorine then vacuumed and shocked it. The next couple days it kept getting worse which I then noticed that the pump had some air and now I've been having to bleed the filter several times a day so clearly ots not filtering the water at full capacity. The pool is about to turn green now. I've replaced the o ring on the filter housing and checked the o ring on pump. no cracks or leaks that we can notice. I'm all.oit of troubleshooting and the place we bought the pool , they are not helpful. the pump and cartridge filter is hayward , it's an aboveground 24ft. it's all only 5 years old. This is my last stop before calling a professional to look at it.

Shocking my pool, using this: HTH® Pool Care Shock Advanced which is 56% Cal-Hypo
Never used it before, normally use liquid chlorine, but stores around are out

My Ph has shot from 7.7 to 8.3 in a span of 4 days. Ive not added anything else. Anyone else seen this? Pool School app says C-H isnt suppose to raise Ph.
And before someone asks, this was tested with both an electronic tester and a Taylor test, same reading for both.

To me this is highly odd, as normally Im fighting low Ph not high Ph in this pool (which from what Ive heard is a little odd for a SWG, which is suppose to raise Ph, and hasnt been running much while shocking).

Already working on fixing it (mur acid) just wondering if anyone has seen this effect from this product. If not a warning to others.

Hey guys,

Still trying to figure out how to have a diving board and slide given the two enormous and entirely unnecessary safety envelopes. Pool builder will not install overlapping envelopes.

So here’s the next question -
According to the safety standards are shallow end transitions of 1:7 required? Or can I have my slope entirely at the 1:3 ratio? Logically if 1:3 is allowed closer to a dive entry then allowing it after should work from diving perspective. It would only be if that slope was considering unsafe in the shallow end?

Like many, I want to maximize the entirely flat 3.5ft shallow end while still having an 8ft diving pool. Being able to transition from 8-3.5 over 1:3 ratio would mean only 13.5 feet of sloped pool.

Thanks



Thanks

I have been slowly noticing the two LED pool lights are shing more of a green than a white...the water is clear. Has never needed shocked in a year. Have never had cloudy water. Any ideas? Lens dirty or something? If so, a way to clean? Warranty claim? The lights are definetely on white because when i shift to green, it gets greener.

Have a 30k pool and my single speed Jandy pump finally gave in. New capacitor didn't help. My pool guy is recommending the AquaStar Pipeline Variable Speed Pump 3HP. Anyone heard or have any experience with this brand? I would also welcome any recommendations. Any insight is much appreciated. Thank you!

I'm replacing my skimmer in my in-ground Hatteras pool.....My original issue was an air leak on the supply side and everything above ground tested good and the underground pipe failed a pressure test.
Removed concrete after leak detection company heard a leak at the skimmer. After I dug down I also found a leak in the pool light niche. Hopefully, I've got that patched up.

The Heyward Skimmer (model 1084) has rigid 1.5" PVC coming from the bottom and transitions to a flex pipe (I'm assume, for now, it's flex PVC, but I will call the installation company this week). There is a metal (iron), most likely barbed device that connects the two pipes and there is a hose clamp around the edge of the flex pipe. This looks strange to me. But I'm here for the real answer.

What is the correct procedure to connect flex PVC to solid PVC and done correctly? I don't want to have to dig up concrete again for the same issue.

Thanks!

Using Aqua Prologic Goldline System for last 10 years. Replaced OEM Salt Cell last year with Aqua Coastal Salt Cell. Pool runs fine and water was crystal until last week. Whole pool turned green as Salt Cell error. Tried running chlorinator manually but it didn't start and failed to start with error Chlorinator off sensor fault and further diagnostics shows Cell Temp Sensor Short Circuit. Bought new Temp Sensor but getting same error. Need some help if it is possible by pass cell temp sensor check. Heater works just fine.

Any help is appreciated. Missing my crystal clear water.

Good evening. I have 2 large led lights in pool and 1 small one in spa. Went to change color to Alpine white and one of the large ones ISNT lighting up . Very dim . If I change to a different color it works fine . Has any ever experienced this ?

I have a few spots around my pool where the mastic - which just looks like caulk to me? - is sinking. Is this something to be concerned with? and how much urgency to get it fixed (if any)?

Pool is 2.5 years old, 3rd summer using. Concrete patio on left of picture with a spraycoat. Coping on the right is Leuder stone.

I am investigating the possibility of getting a heat pump for my pool. Natural gas is not available and propane is crazy expensive for me. Since I have a small pool I think a heat pump will work great. Anyways I was looking at the easy touch to see how you can control the heat pump. I was a little disappointed that it doesn't look like you can have much control on when and if the heater turns on other than a single temp set point. What I would like to do is have an automated bypass that turns on as well as being able to run the heat pump only during the daytime hours. Since I don't have a spa but I have the spa function on my controller. I thought I could use the spa function and set that to my pool temp and wire my pool thermistor into the spa header. If I understand it right I can then set spa to run from say 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. during the warmest part of the summer days to heat the pool and not run during the cooler nights. This would also activate the automatic valve bypass that I plan to install.

Just looking to see if this seems feasible?

I have a set of Permacast Big Boy 6 inch brass anchors and a the metal plate.
What is the best way/ method to install these in a paver deck. ???
I plan on pouring a 2x2 ft concrete pad then installing the anchors... but not sure on the best way to attatch the plate
and cups to the concrete... set in concrete with bolts or drill and epoxy into concrete or what ?