I tried a couple bags a couple months back since Walmart will deliver it with Walmart plus and had no issues.
So thought great lets get more since we had a ton of rain and mine is low again but this time I got stains

I have the inyo which looks a lot like the hayward so keep it close to 3000 to be safe.

I put it in my spa so its mixed and poured out the water fall and this morning I see stains, nothing major but enough to tell me it has some iron in it.

Hi all, getting an error message that there is an “invalid cell”. I took the SWG out and cleaned it, reinstalled and restarted the pump. Still getting the message. This is a new SWG just about 1 year. Do I need to “reset the cell” from the board after cleaning? Could that be why I’m getting the error? Appreciate your thoughts!

I had local Pool Company rep come over and give my prices on refinishing pool, and adding automation among other things.
I asked for Pentair but they seem to prefer Jandy.
He added a line number for
"Install Jandy RS-PS8 automation pack, 3 JVA valves, Conduit run for new spa light, and remove and replace J-box - $7945"

What your thought on this vs Pentair?

Thanks,

Jeff

Hi all,

I am looking for advice if it is feasible and safe to winterize the water fixture only that has it's separate pump to avoid running it when temperature drop below freezing in the winter. I live in Houston and temperature does not drop that often and I want to avoid winterizing the pool.

I attached picture of the plumbing. The water fixtures pump is the black one and it is constant speed. So can't adjust the speed for a low speed freeze protection mode

I have a Sta-Rite DES 60 filter. It works OK, but the filter plates need replacing. I can buy a set of plates, or I can replace the entire filter. I have some questions ...

1. Are there filters that would connect directly to the existing multi-port valve? (are the inlet/outlet ports in the same position)
2. Will today's filter last as long as the old Stainless Steel Sta-Rite?
3. What else do I need to be thinking about to decide between repair/replace.

Please share your wisdom ...

Hello,
I own a 22 year old Pentair Mini max 300 Plus pool heater. It recently stopped working and I'm in the trouble shooting phase. A recent suggestion was to inspect the pilot ignitor so I disassembled the pilot tube and ignitor from the main burner can and gas valve. Things began to fall apart due to heat/corrosion related age. I ordered a new pilot tube, #075192, and an ignitor, #471204, and now I'm wondering about its installation. The pilot tube did not come with compression fitting or ferrules. In my mind, it would appear that the tube would need a set of fittings and ferrules, at each end, along with those tube ends to be properly flared before reinstalling to both the gas valve and the main burner can mounting bracket. Can anyone comment on this repair? Thank you.

Pool is in SE Louisiana where concrete settling is constant… Pool installed 2016. Just noticed that the mastic is separating and the concrete has risen about 1/2” by the skimmer with a new minor crack extending out of the joint line. I’ve noticed the skimmer lid is much tighter to put on/off. As of now no leaks and skimmer assembly is unaffected inside. My plan is to redo the mastic with deck o seal around entire pool as it’s about that time anyways and just dremel of a bit of plastic from the skimmer lid. It’s been abnormally dry this summer (a drought in New Orleans if you believe it). My question is do you think this presents long term concerns in the concrete? I’m planning to just patch up with new mastic and monitor the area for further degradation. This area has always had a slight incline from coping to concrete and I’m unsure if the mastic just gave out or if the concrete rose more significantly. Any thoughts are appreciated. I’m waiting for a pool installer to give me their opinion.

Hello,
Aside from tightening the neck screws, what are next steps for solving the problem of water bursting out the base of the neck of my Hayward sand filter? n
Photo added pointing to where the water is spurting out when pump is on

Hi all, if this is in the wrong forum please move it over, not sure where to post
I am putting an offer in a home that currently has a beautiful free form pool. I would like to add an infinity 360 degree spa to it (so the water pours over all the edges on all sides.
Last year I hired a PB to put in my gunite pool and spa and it was one of the worst experiences I have ever had. Everything was just terrible from begininning to end. So this time, I am doing things much different.
First off, can I ask what design software would you suggest I purchase to start designing what I am looking for? From there I can get drawings done from an architect to submit to the county, then would you suggest hiring the plumber, gunite, tile, then plaster company? I would manage the subs myself.
Again, I think I have a little PTSD from my last build.....Thank you!

Question: Does the Jumper J4 on the S2 33FF board need to be in place for the circuit board to work? My jumper clip (black thing) broke one of the pins off and came of when something fell on the board. Does the clip make continuity between the two pins or prevents them from connecting?

Thanks for any help or insight you can share, Eddy B

Been cleaning my own plaster pool in Florida (year round use) for 11 years now and have yet to find a brush, steel/nylon/kryponite etc. that wont shed in my pool and filters after a few months of use. I've tried whale tails, "pro" ones, big box store ones, steel ones from Pinch recommended when we resurfaced etc. Nothing works more than a few months at most and they are all gimmicky with stupid features to out sell the next. I just need something that works to get the nooks and crannys and steps weekly as my vacuum does the rest. Any insight on one I've overlooked that WONT SHED, at least for a year or so?

As always, thanks to the group! You guys are awesome! I've learned a ton over the years and religiously use my Pool Math app features.

Cheers,
-TPNerd

We have a vinyl lined, liquid chlorinated pool. When I've had the water tested at the pool store, they begin to freak out when they see a reading of 100. The pool store recommends a minimum of 250 ppm. But my TFP app says anything from 50-650 is normal...should I buy calcium hardness increaser? Or am I ok? Why sich a big range with the TFP method?
Thanks so much!

I've always been passionate about technology and design. With the advent of new AI-assisted design tools, it has suddenly become possible to instantly visualize a design concept with the right prompts and a few clicks of a mouse. There has been a lot of hype about artificial intelligence and what it can do, but can it really design a pool? That was the challenge I set forth when I asked AI to imagine the most beautiful pool anywhere in the world. To me, the results were honestly pretty astounding. Here is one of my personal favorites.

AI imagined a secluded pool and waterfall in a natural stone setting high up in the hills of Japan.

*This image was generated using HotPot.ai Stable Diffusion artificial intelligence.

Using Aqua Prologic Goldline System for last 10 years. Replaced OEM Salt Cell last year with Aqua Coastal Salt Cell. Pool runs fine and water was crystal until last week. Whole pool turned green as Salt Cell error. Tried running chlorinator manually but it didn't start and failed to start with error Chlorinator off sensor fault and further diagnostics shows Cell Temp Sensor Short Circuit. Bought new Temp Sensor but getting same error. Need some help if it is possible by pass cell temp sensor check. Heater works just fine.

Any help is appreciated. Missing my crystal clear water.

Hello All,
We are currently in the proposal phase of our first pool. We have gone to 4 builders and as soon as we get our next quote in we will be making a decision on who to move forward with. Any recommendations on things we should do during this initial stage before signing contracts is greatly appreciated. I have gone back to one PB to get a breakout of the pricing and was told that the information cannot be sent to us via email as it is proprietary in nature, and I have another PB that has provided line item pricing for the scope of work. (The lack of transparency is worrisome) We are wanting a SWG for health reasons - so any "do not do this" "make sure you do this" etc. is greatly appreciated!! Thank you in advance!

Hello everyone,

My PB took $ and vanished I am trying to finish the project.
Passed shell, deck and pressure inspection. No electrical, no equipment pad-> no plaster, no screen cage.
I am working on Pentair equipment list and just found out LED bubblers niches in gunite do not look like Pentair equipment.
Any idea what brand is it ?

Pool was built in 1987, refinished in 2015 with waterfall feature added, and pool deck re-done.
There's a 3 foot retaining wall on the back property line, about 4 feet from the pool deck at the closest point. The land behind my property sits down about 3 feet.
There are a lot of holes, depressions, etc. along the edge of the pool deck and now around the waterfall feature that was added in 2015. (See photos)
Clay soil and drought the last few years hasn't helped the issue.
We had some foundation repair done on the house in 2022.

Can any builders, or folks who've had similar issues weigh in on strategies for fixing this?

I am having green algae problem after neighbor's tree fall in my pool last year. Since then I tried many things to get the metals out such as copper, alum etc...
My CYA was low like under 10 and CC - 2PPM, and I used chlorine tabs to bring them up, and now has gone up to 85. Looking to find ways to lower CYA now, rather then draining water out.
My Yesterdays' reading shown below.

FC - 2
TC - 2.17
pH - 8
TA - 104
CH - 150
CYA - 86

It appears everything such as chlorine tabs, cal hypo's, conditioner and stabilizer affect CYA, which appears to be an important number to look at.

Any Advice to remove green algae as I can not see bottom of the pool since a month. and if I should use Swamp treat, as I already tried Super 60 Algicides from 2 stores. versus more liquid chlorine.

Fairly new pool owner here - construction was completed about a year ago. Like many, I started used tablets, CYA got out of control, I switched to LC a few months ago, and now considering installing a SWG.

I am thinking about removing the inline tablet chlorinator and installing the SWG (probably RJ-45) in its place, however it looks like I will need a few extra inches. With a SWG, do I need the check valve to the left of the chlorinator, or can I remove that and reclaim the space?

Thanks - TFP has made a HUGE difference in a very short period of time with my understanding of pool management!

Hey all! I made a couple small one-time donations this week and have yet to receive a confirmation email. Is that still a thing? Thanks!

* I did check my spam folder with no luck.

I'm finishing up a contract with a pool company this summer and hoping take care of my pool on my own next summer. I am starting to learn a lot on this forum and I appreciate everyones help! I still have a long way to go. So this may sound like a stupid question, but yesterday, I was cleaning out the skimmer and I noticed a plug in one of the holes at the bottom. I'm not 100% certain, but I don't think its supposed to be there? It was likely left by the pool company when they serviced my pool on 8/24. So, I pulled out the plug. I hope this is right?! Anyway, I have 2 questions. First, should the plug be there? And if it shouldnt be there, could any damage have resulted in it being there for so long during normal pool operation? I was having some issues with a red light coming on my intellichlor SWG that was indicating LOW FLOW. Could this be related? Thanks!

So, I'm going on 8 years with my Doheny Discovery S200, Active 20 variant. I guess, I'm one of the lucky ones, because it just keeps chugging along. Also, I wasn't exactly the best owner, because I left the robot in the pool about 90% of the time, and only taking it out when I clean out the basket. I will admit, that I did spend about $200 in parts from Marina's a few years back, to replace the cord, bearings, tracks, active brushes and return flaps, but that was a small price to pay for the convienence of just hitting a button to clean to keep the bottom of the pool clean.

All this came to end about 2 weeks ago. It started when I went to turn on the robot and it started like it normally does, but then stopped about 1 minute later. I turned it off and turned it on one more time and it ran like normal. It then sat in the water for 2 or 3 days. I went to start it again and nothing. No bliniking light, no movement form the track or ripple from the propeller. When I took the motor unit apart, I was surprised to see that it was almost completely dry, with just a little condensation on the cans of the motors. Definitely not like the Triton version I fixed last year. That unit had a lot of corrosion on the motors, probably from the seals around the motor shaft. I had to creatively solder the motor circuit board contacts to make it work again (belonged to a coworker), but even that only lasted 1 month before it died again.

So, after figuring out that the circuit board was the culprit in my robot, I pulled apart the Triton my coworker gave me for parts and pulled the circuit board. To my surpise they are noticeably different and the markings different as well. Fortunetly for me, my robot started working again after the switch, although it seems like the robot runs a little differently than my Doheny did prior to the ciruit board switch.

These are the differences I noticed between the Doheny Discovery S200 variant circa 2015 build date.

-marked circuit board M2, Maytronics REV 6.2, 2410077LF
- drive motors looked identical
- my propellor motor has a metal black case with plastic end cap with regular brush holders.
- Doheny discovery has circuit LED circuit board, with LED lense on the side of the unit that faces forward
Everything else appeared to be the same.

Triton Plus (possible S300 variant) about 2018-2019 build date.
- identical drive motor
- Drive motor looks more like the ones found on Ebay for $130 used from Isreal based seller. Black metal can, with pot metal rear cover plate. A lot of corrosion on the this one.
- Triton had no LED board and no lense in the motor unit case
- Circuit board marked with S2 and some of the circuits transistors appear to be different.

Hopefully this post helps someone.

Hi everyone,
We bought a home in the northeast in 2019 that had a 36k gallon in-ground salt water pool with a heat pump. Since then, i've had a pool company open and close it each year. I do the balancing with a Taylor salt kit. I enjoy doing it. In the last few years i have replaced the four cartridges for the filter, upgraded the pump to a Tristar VS 900, and installed an omnilogic system for easier maintenance. The new pump installation and omnilogic installation were professionally done.

This year i watched them open the pool and it seems like something i can handle. I had already hooked up the pump, replaced the filter cartridges, cleaned/reinstalled the SWG prior to their arrival. (For winter, i bring the pump, filter cartridges, SWG into my basement). They essentially just took the cover off, removed gizmos from the skimmer baskets, and turned on the system. So i am not intimated by opening the pool.

However, closing the pool is another story. My main concern is the pipes freezing. It's a 20'x45' pool so i think there is a good amount of piping. I read the relevant page (Closing an In Ground Pool) and plan to get a Cyclone to do it right. The salient points seem to be 1) drain water level to 4" below skimmer boxes 2) blow out the lines with the cyclone until there is just a fine mist coming out of the returns 3) install gizmos and plugs.

Is this something to be intimidated by? or is it one of those things that after you do it you'll look back and think "actually, that wasn't so bad!"

After a few years of dealing with my pool company for various things, i really get the feeling they try to rip me off at every corner. I would be happy to get rid of them and also have the ability to do it all myself. I just don't want to destroy this awesome pool in the process.

Hello !

My pump (installed in 2020, recent) is making a little noise (not permanent). It's a model with variable speed. I tried to open it by removing the four main screws, but I haven't been able to pull the impeller from the pump Strainer Housing. It's just open with 3-4 mm. BTW, it has been efficient, because the noise has disappeared. I think that a debris was the cause of the noise...
Do someone know how to pull out this impeller in case of need (it's blocked, i didn't want to pull strong) ?

Pretty much everywhere else recommends CH to be 200-400, including in my K-2006 kit. But the Pool Math app says for plaster SWG I need to be between the 250 and 650, ideally 350-550. Why is Pool Math so different?! Mine is reading about 210 (was 250 total hardness with strip tests), and I'm already fighting a scaling problem so it seems like a terrible idea to raise it even more. Also I have a heater and elsewhere on the site it recommends keeping CH around 200 for the health of the heater.

So first of all why is it so different, and second, can I change the recommended ranges in the app so it doesn't constantly yell at me for being bad?

New to Salt Generators and my Hayward Goldline Aquarite T Cell 15 is going bad after 6.5 years and from reading it appears thats better than average . Looking now at what options and looking for recommendations from those with more experience :
- My pool is 25000 gals but the installer put in a 40000 gal cell . Is this normal to oversize the cell and thus the reason for longer life ?
- Or am I wasting money on larger capacity cell and should just purchase a 25000 gal ?
- See lots of non OEM cells and was looking for recommendation if should stay with Hayward or are the OEM equal ?
- If the non OEM makes sense any recommendation on which took at and where to buy and those to stay away from

I currently have a Intermatic T104p3 pool timer. Its broken so i bought another one from lowes. I noticed that it was different from my Intermatic. Ive got a Hayward Super Pump and a Polaris PB4SQ pool cleaner. I need to know that im making the right connections. The new timer is a Tork 1109A-PC. After studying the schematic i think that the supply power coming in would go to line 1 and the next one would go to line 2, then loop from 2 too 3. If anyone could help me and certainly correct me if im wrong itd be awesome. Before i change anything you can bet the breaker will be off in the house and the breaker at the pump station will be off as well. Thank you for any help.

Just came back from a 2 week vacation. Still working on dialing in a 4 month old pool. So I have my cleaner run from 9am to 5pm (I have solar electric) with SWG set at 40%. I have the high power in floor cleaner run from 9 to 11am then again 6 to 7pm before swim time. The pool is clean and other water parameters are good.

Which should I reduce? Or reduce both?

Pool is 7,650 gallons
New build, 4 months old
FC 8 (want it around 2?)
CC 0
PH 7.6
TA 60
Cal 450
Salt 3290
CYA 65

My first CYA test was a couple days ago, before I started the SLAM process. The first result I got was 45, but I tested tonight and got 40. Should I adjust my FC level or just continue to maintain the original recommended level of FC? I'm very new to all if this, so I'm not sure if my tests were accurate or if it's a bit of user error. I'm using TF-100 kit.