Hi,

Is there a way to get rid of these calcium marks around the pool and spa? Also, I have these white spots at the bottom, I don't know if it's calcium as well or something else. Any advice how to get rid of them? I started taking care of my pool in the last two weeks, I'm not sure if this is the product of something my pool guy used to put in or if it's normal wear and tear.

Thanks!
Roger

Hi all! We are in the thick of picking out tile - very overwhelming for someone (me) who is indecisive and not great at visualizing. We have narrowed it down to 3, but I can't find ANY photos of ANY of them installed... I have searched all 3 of them multiple times on here, Google, Facebook groups, and nothing!

Anyone able to help? One is from QDI (Islands Santorini), and the other 2 are from Noble Tile. I also know the "gun metal blue" one from Noble is actually the Artistry in Mosaics brand, but still can't find photos. Would appreciate photos if you used any of these or have seen photos! Thanks!

Pool was built in 2008. For the most part everything works fine. last replace the handheld remote June 2023. Hit Spa party last night and nothing happened. Usually the pool will switch to spa, the lights will come on and the heater will kick on. If I hit spa spearately the spa will come one, same with the lights ( although the mail pool light flashing green or is off - a Hayward colorlogic), but the heater is not turning on. It's an Hayward H400FDN. The screen shows "ho" I can not find any reference in any of the Hayward trouble shooting guides as to what this might mean. I found one online reference that it indicated water temp was too high, but the sensor seems to be correct with a reading of 72 ( we have replaced that in the past). I have attached a screen shot. So I am looking for help on where to start with the heater as well as any thoughts as to why the spa party grouping may have quit working on the remote. - or if the heater not coming on could impact that. We have self dealt with an IO code a few years ago, but pretty much everything else has been problem free. I am assuming the flashing light means the pool light is mal-functioning and would need to be replaced, but don't really care about it at the moment. Any insight would be appreciated.

So I've had my Circupool generator for 5 years now. Few issues noted in the SWG forum. But this one goes in the plumbing section I think. My system was flooded back in February. My pool is in the floodplain and we got a 100-yr Event. Got everything cleaned out including cleaning threads with a toothbrush. Replaced the rubber O-rings but I'm still getting this in my video. I tried pipe tape and it didn't work. I ordered Magic Lube II for it but haven't put it on yet. Am I on the right track? BTW, it didn't do this when I shut it down.

My video on my Google Drive:

Hi! We purchased a used pool last fall. We tore it down ourselves and discovered the bottom rail was corroded. We figured, okay, we’ll look into replacement parts once we’re ready to install in the spring (now). The issue is I can’t seem to find replacement parts. I believe the pool brand is Outer Back (I have attached pictures). The previous owner indicated the pool is about 10-12 years old if that helps. Thanks in advance for your help

I have a MasterTemp 400 wired into my Intellicenter Board. Also, use the Intellicenter App to control the Pool: Lights/Pumps/Features and the Heater [mostly].

Here's what the App can control on the Heater:
1. I can turn on/off the heater
2. I see if the heater is running or not [flame icon]
3. I see the temperature setting [on the app]

Here's what it doesn't do:
1. I cannot send [via the app] a change of temp to the IntelliCenter board. When i change the temp on the App, it looks like the change takes place, but the change never reaches the Heater.

In order to change the temp on the heater, I need to either manually do it at the heater; or change it at the IntelliCenter Panel.

Any ideas as to why this is happening? Maybe a setting I have wrong? Or?? Thank you, Shannon

Hi all, getting things lined up for the summer. Would appreciate some thoughts on this idea. My opening date usually varies depending on life and travel. I was thinking maybe, leave cover on now, but pull plugs and run my equipment in circulate, and put in 12 percent chlorine until I'm ready to open. Thinking this would keep any green algae growth a bay and dead stuff should be at the bottom when I open the pool in a month or so.

Or am I just wasting my time. I'd say the time effort and cost is minimal and is stuff I have to eventually do anyway with the pump, etc.

Thanks

Bperry said:

It should last a lot longer than that if you follow the recommendation of getting one rated for at least twice the size of your pool.

Click to expand...

On this note, is there a path to using another branded cell with Hayward OmniPL system? In my case, largest Hayward TCELL is 40,000gal but I have a 32,000gal pool. Seems the largest out there is the Circupool RJ60... but I'd need their controller, correct? Or can it be successfully wired into Hayward automation?

No need for one now as pool and cell are new, but not opposed to moving to a cell roughly 2x pool size when opportunity/necessity permits.

Ok

After much reading I performed the ammonia test and I lost 85% or 8.5ppm in 30 min and have 1.5 CC. 28k gallon in ground vinyl liner. Am I best to drain completely and start over or do I dump a likely hefty amount of chlorine via multiple rounds? I should note, I live in the country and have my own well so water cost is not a concern. I would also note that most of last season my pool was clear but never could quite get that sparkling water.

With the high prices of liquid chlorine, it is either time for me to switch to a SWG pool or leave the pool closed and covered. For the last couple of years, we have used the pool only 9 or 10 times. By the time the pool gets warm enough to swim in, within 2 or 3 weeks the pool is too hot to swim in here in SE Oklahoma. SWG will not help with a pool that is too hot to swim in.

The pool company that closes my pool tells me to leave it covered. We live lake front so we have a problem with water moccasins getting in the pool. They are so much fun to fish out of the pool (vinyl liner is slippery)!

How many of you have switched to a SWG pool because of high chlorine costs? Pros and Cons?

Pros and cons of leaving it covered (vinyl liner)?

Thanks for any advice.

Buying a 24’ round hard side pool (fb marketplace find). I am new to all of this so talk like I’m a kindergartener .
Liner: The seller says was bought new last year. Will I be able to use it again or would I need a new one? Is there any certain way I should handle it when disassembling and hauling it?
Site preparation: I’m hiring someone to level the site. What are the next steps or “layers” to get it ready to reassemble the pool on top?
Thanks!

While the pump was running.
Is it possible someone came and cut it off? Or does water pressure can do that. It is so symmetric cut. Unbelievable.
Please advise what to do next

Hello! I am hoping to avoid a new spa pack. The issue is my 2014 bullfrog A7 throws a error code 19. It is a Bullfrog bfbp20 spa pack. Things I have tried.... snaked and cleaned every circulation pipe. Had the circulation pump test and no issues with it. I do have plenty of water flow currently. I replaced the sensors. I have tested the heater posts and checked for a heater short. I put the ipswich to test mode, and it is in the correct setup of setup 1. I have been told that I need a new board. Is this the correct solution, or is there any other way of resolving this? Thank you!!

Hey Everyone, this is my first post for our new pool that was just finished and I'm looking for some recommendations on if I should change any of this setup regrading my JVAs for more control.

My current setup has 2 modes, pool & spa, but there is no dedicated spillover mode for the spa, it is always enabled where if I am in pool mode I have the spillover from the spa into the pool. This ia fine, but it means I have to run my pump at pretty high speed to get the desired waterfall effect with it being split between the pool returns, pool water features, and spa spillover. Running at a minimum of 2800 (max is 3450) for all 3 to be working adequately.

My question is, is the juice worth the squeeze to add in spillover mode in my Jandy Aqualink RS system? From reading on here I know I should be able to do it by moving my air blower from aux 3 to another aux, and then it becomes available as a baked in option from Jandy. If I do this, then I would lose my everything mode, where I have spillover and waterfalls from other features as well as the pool returns, which is the mode I figure it will be in when there are swimmers anyways. It would be limited to pool mode with water features and NO spillover, or spillover only mode with no water features (The 3 values on the right are the additional water features, scuppers).

I feel like I would gain the ability to be able to run the pump at a lower speed for better energy efficiency and pump life if I wasnt having to always sport the big spillover volume requirements. But im also not sure if that is even worth it because then skimmers wouldn't really be working strong at lower speeds anyways.

I do have more questions on adding JVAs to the pool return side to control the scuppers independently (3 at a time) and then adding a new JVA and valve on the pool return to control it independently. But this is the most extreme case to gain full control, but im just not sure again if any of this is really worth while, so just looking for some opinions from anyone who may have a similar set up or has thought about this in the past.

Equipment:

Jandy eSeries 2.7hp Pump, Jandy 400k Btu heater, Jandy Intellicolor Lights, Aqualink RS Y.g, Jandy AquaPure 1400

Pool is 21k Gallons

Hello,

I'm new to forum but not a new pool owner. Had my salt water pool for 10 years. Still learning the ways of the clean pool.

Regards

Howdy.

I never used flocculant in my pool, but I'd like to give it a shot this year. However, after I looked vods on Youtube, I realized that my pool system doesn't have multi-port valve for "Recirculate" or "Waste", and the system uses D.E filter. For my cases, what should I do to prevent water get to filter grids or damage filter grids when running pumps after putting flocculant in and back wash to clean up? Thanks,

Hey guys, was doing some maintenance and in my infinite wisdom forgot to take before pictures, and I can’t for the life of me recall which orientation the bottom diverter valve should be, the one next to the chlorinator.

Any help or guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Hi all,
When using the spa, the pool water would slowly drop down after about 45 min maybe an hour. I have done some research and most videos say you need to change the valve or close it off to only draw water from the spa. Which I was not aware of. We bought the house with the pool and our pool is slowly growing. I am unsure which valve or valves needs to be adjusted. Grateful if you could shed some light on the correct valves. Please see attached photos.
Thanking you in advance

Hello from Australia! I just bought a house with a pool and I'm thrilled because I love all-year swimming. I have spent the past couple of months relying on test strips and pool-shop testing, but found that the advice has been sadly lacking and I'm wasting money on chemicals that I now realise have been unnecessary. And the pool-shop owner has been telling me "Don't worry if your cyanuric acid is high. Mine is really high. It doesn't matter." OMG, seriously?? I like learning all about how to do things myself. I am also trying to get rid of mustard algae (yes, it really is mustard algae). I am almost on top of it. What a marathon. I'm really pleased to have found this forum. I have ordered a test kit so soon I will be able to do my own accurate testing. Yay!!

Hi all, first post, but longtime lurker. Really appreciate this resource and thanks in advance for advice on this post.

I’m replacing the pump on my 11 year old Hayward Tristar SP3205EE. Original pump has bad bearings and when I pulled it off yesterday to inspect, I found it very crusty overall and can’t even get it fully open for some reason. It’s a single speed 1/2 HP (0.99 THP) Century. Planned replacement is V-Green EVO VS (1.3 HP) that I’ll run at a slower speed for my 12k gal with just cartridge filter and SWG (and rarely used heater).

I’ll get a “go-kit” and probably new seal plate too. Just wondering if I should replace anything else as a matter of course? Does anyone know if the 48Y V-Green comes with a spacer for 56Y install? Will the original impeller be adequate with the new motor? Inyo lists this impeller as “1/2 - 3/4 HP” and “0.75 THP” which is a bit confusing since it’s on a 1 THP unit.

Hi, so it is pollen season here in South Florida, and I am constantly battling a cloudy pool. Chemical levels are fine and I’ve done a chlorine loss test. I am planning on slamming my pool in hopes that it will help clear up the water.

I run my pool 24/7 anyway. I use skimmer socks to help catch the pollen. However, my question is around my filter. Florida is known for its small filters. I am basically cleaning my filter once a day and there’s a ton of yellow pollen on the filter. My question is could it be the age of my filter even though it looks in good shape that it is still letting pollen pass through creating the cloudy water. I have to assume my filter is north of three years at this point. I do keep it well-maintained and it looks good but I would have to assume there’s been some wear over the years. I don’t have much pollen settling just a light dusting that I noticed when I brush my sun decks.

Plans/Permits should be finalized this week, and we should be digging by the end of July!

If anyone sees any glaring problems, or things we're overlooking, feel free to chime in! I'd rather know now instead of after the concrete has cured!

Decisions we are consciously making:

• No hot tub (Not what we want to spend money/space on)
• 8' Deep end (Our family enjoys deep ends in other pools)
• Wood Fireplace instead of gas (Should put out more heat, be nicer to look at)
• Stamped concrete instead of pavers (trying to save money on items we aren't passionate about)
• No pool deck on far side (Approaching rear property line, ground slopes away from house)
• Propane instead of heat pump (Electricity is expensive in our area and our goal is to minimize heater usage)

Open Questions

• Can people jump off the auto cover vault lid? Would it be uncomfortable to be on the shallow end bench?
• Is pool automation worth it if we don't have any water features/hot tub?

Pool Info:

• Size: 18'x36'
• Depth: 3.5' to 8'
• Vinyl Color: Gray Granite Borderless
• Corner Walk in
• Shallow end full width bench
• Deep end swim out bench
• Automatic Cover

Pool Equipment

• Salt Water Generator
• Hayward Glass Filter
• Hayward Tristar VS pump
• 350 BTU/Hr Propane Heater
• Color LED light

Landscape/Hardscape info

• Stamped concrete pool deck "Light Cappuccino color" - Ashlar stamp pattern
• Stamped concrete pavilion floor "Light Cappuccino color" - Seamless pattern
• 16x16 Gabled Pavillion
• Fencing will be added

My robot crunched up the drain cover on my fiberglass pool. There are two little nubs sticking up that look like they retain the cover. I need some sort of replacement to go over the hole because now the robot is getting hung up on the nubs. I have attached a picture, hopefully it helps.

HI all,
Running into an issue with my IC40. It was working a few days ago after I opened my pool but that night, it stopped working and it had no lights on. It normally runs with at least a green light for good salt levels and good flow when not generating. I shut it down, changed the fuse, and powered it back up. It blinked a few times and then shut off again. I power cycled it again and it turned on for about an hour before shutting off again. There's definitely power that goes to it because when I kick the power on the red flow light comes on, the green salt light comes on, then it flips back to red and then shuts off. The green led is lit on the power supply board so I know it's getting good power there too

The IC40 is less than a year old. Pool was installed last season and only ran from end of July through September. It's a simple power supply unit with no automation.

I'm thinking defective unit but figured I'd ask if anyone else has run into similar issues and what they did to fix it.

Our new a WhisperFlo is running RPMs at 3450, 3000, 2200 and 1400 that the new FlowRead is showing about flow at 70, 60, 44 and about 18 GPM. There a guy of Swimming Pool Steve who has runs the Pentair pumps many times at the 3450, 3000, 2000 and 1000 RPM and it shows that the meter flows rate at the GPMs show about 102, 86, 55 and 29 GPMs. Why can the meter flows can so different RPMs when so slow the GPMs? Thanks.

Hey everyone. Searched a few threads and the only bugs I can see in older posts are much smaller than these. these are more like gnats, but kind of long.

Been having some nice weather and wanting to turn the pool heater on and get in it, but every day when I go to chck on the pool, it's got a ton of these small bugs in it. they're not clumping together - on the main pool surface, they're evenly spread across it all with one every square inch. it's bizzare, and makes it very difficult to net them up.

We're in North georgia, in woodstock.

This is our third year of pool ownership and i've never seen them before.
So:
What are they?
How do I stop this?

I have some talstar-p which I use every 30 days in summer around the grass/plants to control mosquitos, I havent put any down yet, but would that help? Any other products?
Pool chemicals are well balanced - FC 3.5, pH 7.5
I really hope they're not coming from the trees we have behind the house - we have a bunch of tall trees behind the fence that do loom over our pool (makes for a lot of work in fall)

My pool lights were a little finicky the last couple times I tried to turn them on but they did turn on. That is until the other night. There are two color LED Lights with a pentair 300w 12v Transformer. The breakers aren't tripped. There are no burned out parts or evidence of burns or smoke.. The relay still makes switching noise but no lights. It is on AUIX1 This is my first time troubleshooting LED lights on the pool... I have a good multimeter. I have made repairs to the heatpump relays and other parts before.

Since both lights aren't working I suspect something else has gone wrong.
Is there a troubleshooting guide?
Any advice appreciated.

keithpgdrb said:

I have the magnet version. I’ll take some pics for you. I can tell you my robot goes over it without knocking it off. It sticks to the wall pretty tightly.

Click to expand...

Hi, hoping to Re Start this thread

Just finished my pool build and I purposely did not run electrical for lighting (possibly a huge mistake)

Anywho, I purchased one of these Ledec Sun lights. They truly work great and are very very bright

However, the adhesive they send….sucks. It is not sticking to my plaster walls at all. Falls off immediately. I don’t have tech data sheets for their adhesive but I deal with enough chemicals and coatings on a weekly basis and by the odor it smells like it’s a solvent free silicone product. Which obviously is not going to have the best adhesion as a hydrocarbon based urethane adhesive/epoxy.

I’m waiting for a response from their customer service but I’m not sure they’ll have much of a solution

Any suggestions for under water adhesive that actually will stick and work?

I can’t really do the magnetic option because it’s a plaster pool. Even if I were to adhesive a piece of stainless steel to the wall I’ll still be in need of adhesive that is strong enough under water.

Any advise is much appreciated. I’ve spent $250 on this light and overall very happy with the power and quality. I just need to figure out how I’ll mount it successfully

Pics below of the pool illuminated with it just laying on the sun shelf

Finished cleaning the grids and put them back in the filter and closed it up. Fired up the pump and pressurized the filter. Everything runs great for about 15-30 minutes. Pressure is 20-25 and water is running great through the spa and pool jets. Then after the 15-30 minutes the pressure goes up to 35 psi and starts slowing down the water flow through the spa and pool. I don’t understand why. I run a backwash and the everything runs fine again for 15 minutes. What is causing this ir what am I doing wrong ?