Would re-plumbing my suction lines make a difference here?

Hello everyone.

I won't pretend to know anything about fluid dynamics or whatever, so I figured I'd ask here.

My pump is currently plumbed like this:
plumbing.png
In order to get enough suction to my Hayward The PoolCleaner to get to ~11rpm, I need to turn the 3 way valve to like 4:30-5:00, blocking off most of the flow to the skimmer and main drain. What happens when I do this though, is it appears that the negative pressure actually seems to cause the water to start degassing. It gets loud and I see a lot of bubbles forming in the pump basket cover.

I'm wondering if 1.5" pipe is just too small for the way it's plumbed here, and if perhaps setting it up like this would may any difference at all:
plumbing2.png

Like I said, I know nothing about this kind of stuff, but I feel like logically this just makes sense to me. :ROFLMAO:

Thank You!

I have the antithesis of a trouble free pool. I'm at a loss. Any help would be appreciated.

TL;DR
I can't for the life of me keep my FC up in my 12,000 gallon. Used to use tablets causing skyrocketing CYA. Just balanced everything best I could, and installed a SWCG rated for 25,000g, still waking up with 0 FC in the morning.

Hello TFP.

This is my first time here, but I probably should have joined a long time ago, and maybe saved myself a lot of headaches.

It's going to take a decent amount of history and details to fully describe my issues, so please bear with me.

My family and I moved into our house near Datyona, FL, with a 12,000 gallon inground plaster pool, in late 2019. The pool is screened in, but has two very large trees directly above the screen, which certainly contribute to my issues. We have well water, so I assume the original fill(s) were from the well, and the 2 subsequent refills since I've had it were also from the well, more on that later. The filter is a 36sqft Hayward DE filter. The pump used to be an older 1.0HP Hayward, but I upgraded to a 1.5HP Super II.

For the first ~3 years everything was fine. I would throw 2 tablets a week into the inline dispenser, test regularly with a Taylor K-2005, and balance as necessary.

Now, to when the issues started...

The first time the pool went totally green was a combination of equipment failure, and neglect. Around winter time, probably 2022, can't remember exactly, the old Hayward pump broke down. Now, my wife, bless her soul, told me not to worry about it right away, that her grandfather used to let their pool turn completely green over the winter, and always got it back up for summer. Unfortunately... that's exactly what I did. I put off replacing the pump right away, and let it turn into a swamp. Come spring time, I bought and plumbed in the Super II pump, and began the process of trying to get the pool back to swimmable conditions. That went about as good as you'd expect, so eventually I just drained it and refilled it, everything was "normal" again for several months.

Fast forward to fall 2023. I was hospitalized, had surgery, and was out of commission for a few months. The pool turned into a swamp once more, and when I was back on my feet, I drained and refilled it... again...

As before, things were "ok" for a couple months, but then the real problems seemed to start. I was using more and more chlorine tablets, eventually getting up to 5 a week, but I always seemed to have 0 free chlorine. I would shock with liquid chlorine, and every other type of shock you can imagine, and even with 5 tablets in the dispenser, I'd have 0 FC a couple days later. It was about this time that I learned that tablets contained CYA, which I did not know. After refilling, I added enough CYA to get to ~40ppm, and having put 5 tablets in per week, my CYA was off the charts. I'm assuming this was causing it to have extremely low effectiveness.

Fast forward once more to October 2024. We're on vacation in Nashville when hurricane Milton hits. Thankfully we didn't have much damage, but upon returning, the pool was pretty green, especially from all the rain filtering down through the trees and debris on the screen. I realized the next day that the filter wasn't turning on, and found that the breaker had tripped. I visually inspected the pump, which looked fine, turned the breaker on, and the motor immediately exploded, shooting sparks 10 feet in every direction. I thought, not that big of a deal, stuff happens, and ordered a new motor.

It took over a week to get the new motor, so I was just pouring liquid chlorine and algaecide in as much as possible and stirring it up, but it stayed pretty green. Once I installed the motor, I shocked it with like 10 gal of LC, used drop-out flocculant, let it sit another week, then vacuumed all the sludge to waste. I started running the DE filter again, changing DE several times over the course of the day, and was making progress, until... I looked out the window and noticed the water level had dropped a foot. Three of the brass lugs where the motor connects to the pump housing had pulled out, and water was just spraying everywhere. Admittedly, this was my fault, I probably overtightened them and weakened the bond. So now I had to wait for a new pump housing. I also didn't have enough room to work with the pipes glued into the select-a-flow valve, so had to order a new one of those too. Of course, between waiting for all these parts and having the time to do the work, it got green again. I shocked, flocc'd, vacc'd, and got everything back to "normal" once more. This time though, I was dosing LC instead of tablets.

After replacing ALL of this equipment, and doing all this work, I decided that I wanted to convert to saltwater, in hopes that it would be easier, and I ordered a CircuPool Edge 25. I balanced everything to the manufacturer's specs, with the exception of TA which was at 160, and installed the SWCG on Friday, 4/25.

Before turning on the SWG my levels were as follows:
FC 3
CC No discernable difference
pH 7.6
TA 160
CH 380
Salt 3500
CYA 40
Borate 25

I set the chlorine level right in the middle to see how that would go, and ran it all day Saturday, 8 hrs. Unfortunately, I was unable to test Saturday evening, but on Sunday morning, my FC was 0, and CC was barely any different. I am pretty sure it is generating chlorine, because the cell is clear and I can see gasses coming off the titanium plates. Yesterday, I ran it on boost mode for the entire 8 hours, and in the evening FC was 0, and CC again was different, but barely.

Absolutely flabbergasted as to how this was happening, I thought it HAD to be something that required super chlorination. I threw in a bag of cal-hypo AND a gallon of 10% LC last night. That should have been enough to bring the FC to at least 20+. I also wanted to bring down my TA and raise my CYA, so I added 32oz of muriatic acid and 1.5lb of CYA granules.

This morning, less than 8 hours after adding all that chlorine, my levels were:
FC 3
CC 5
pH 7.2
TA 150
CYA still ~40 but ofc it dissolves slow
others same as above.

I should also mention that I took a sample to Leslie's and, per their test, I have no phosphates, 0.1ppm iron, and 0.2ppm copper. I got one of those CuLator metal absorbing packets and stuck it in my skimmer basket.

What could possibly be going on to make the chlorine disappear so fast. The water is clear, there's no visible algae, no excess debris. How can I be sure the SWCG is working properly?

I'm really lost here.

I don't know what to try next.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you, and I'm sorry for rambling for so long.

Jandy PLC1400 Replacement Cost

After searching the forums, could not find what I was looking for that was current.

My Jandy SWG got the dreaded 125/194 codes. Performed the acid wash, unit looks clean but sill throws errors. Guess I need to replace it. I looked on Amazon and see a direct replacement for $985. I was wondering if anyone else has had luck finding it at a lower price point.

Appreciate the help from this awesome group.

Pool Math error message

I’m using version 510 of the app on an iPhone iOS 18.4.1

I renewed my subscription yesterday—App was working fine. Today, I went to log test results, entered the numbers, hit “done”. But when I hit the ✔️ in the upper right corner, I get this error message
IMG_7637.jpeg
I “tried again in a bit” but got the same error. Also logged out and logged back in but, again, same error.
Any suggestions?

Dark Green Pool Shocked 2x now white dust on bottom

Opened a pool two weeks ago. The pool is fiberglass with a sand filter its only two years old and holds 20k gallons. The pool water was extremely green when I opened the pool, dark green. I have shocked the pool twice with cal-hypo which got rid of algae and green color, but now the water is cloudy and there is white dust on the shallow end steps. You can see shallow end bottom but not the deep end. Please help

Best Places to Buy Liquid Chlorine

Members frequently ask "Where is the best place to buy liquid chlorine where I live?"

This thread is an attempt to consolidate all of the places you know of in your town so others can share in your good deal.

If you know a place that has a good deal on liquid chlorine, whether it is a pool store, janitorial supplier or whatever, reply to this thread with the name of the business, the details including price, concentration and quantity, and we'll add it to this list.

US Wide:

Walmart: $2.94 for 121oz of 8.25%. 29.5 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite.
Sams Club: $9.47 for 3 count 121oz of 8.25%. 31.6 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite.
Aldi's: ????



Alabama

Mobile: Pinch-A-Penny 2.5 gal refillable (10.5%) $8.99 initial, $6.08 refill ... 18.1 cents/oz of sodium hypochlorite

Alaska

Arizona

Check for a local HASA dealer who generally sell bulk chlorine at a good price

Tucson: E-Konomy Pool, 4912 E 22nd St, Refillable 4 gallons of 12% for $13.96 = 22.7 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite.


Arkansas

California

Check for a local HASA dealer who generally sell bulk chlorine at a good price

San Rafael/Petaluma: Herb's Pool Service Refillable 4 gallons of 12.5% for $17.32. 27.1 cents/oz. of sodium hypochlorite



Colorado

Connecticut

Delaware

Florida

Orlando: Pinch a Penny and Leslie's refillable 2.5 gallons of 10% for $5 after tax. 15.6 cents/oz. of sodium hypochlorite


Georgia

Hawaii

Idaho

Check for a local HASA dealer who generally sell bulk chlorine at a good price

Idaho: Fred Meyer has their 8.25% 121 oz jugs on sale for $2.69. 26.9 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite.


Illinois

Rural King stores: $9.99 for 4 gallons of 10%. Frequently on sale for $7.99 and even $6.99 around Memorial Day. 19.5 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite at $9.99. 15.6 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite at $7.99. 13.7 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite at $6.99.


Indiana

Rural King stores: $9.99 for 4 gallons of 10%. Frequently on sale for $7.99 and even $6.99 around Memorial Day. 19.5 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite at $9.99. 15.6 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite at $7.99. 13.7 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite at $6.99.

Menards: $3.99 for one gallon of 12%. 26 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite. On sale around Memorial Day as BOGO making it 13 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite.


Iowa

Kansas

Kentucky

Louisiana

Maine

Maryland

Massachusetts

Michigan

Minnesota

Mississippi

Missouri

Montana

Nebraska

Nevada

New Hampshire

New Jersey

New Mexico

New York

North Carolina

Raleigh: MVP Services, 5813 Triangle Dr $13.50 for 5 gallons. of 12%. 17.6 cents per ounce of sodium hypochlorite.


North Dakota

Ohio

Oklahoma

Oregon

Check for a local HASA dealer who generally sell bulk chlorine at a good price


Pennsylvania

Rhode Island

South Carolina

South Dakota

Tennessee

Texas

Check for a local HASA dealer who generally sell bulk chlorine at a good price

Dallas: Riviera Pools 12.6% HASA Chlorine for $22 for 4 gallons. 34.1 cents per gallon of sodium hypochlorite.



Utah

Vermont

Virginia

Washington

Check for a local HASA dealer who generally sell bulk chlorine at a good price


West Virginia

Wisconsin

Wyoming

Need new pentair swg

Anybody have a good source for a deal on an IC40? Mine appears to be dead, shows 80% life, but the service cell light is blinking. I did the acid cleaning but that did not seem to do anything. The unit is 6 years old, so unless anyone knows any tricks, Im hunting for a replacement. Ebay has the older/original model for about $1100 and mine always worked great, so upgrading to the new model doesn't really solve anything for me and Id rather save the $$.

Opening Early??

My wife wants me to open the pool early so she has something nice to look at while sitting on the pool deck. Usually I open end of April (based on water temp). Thinking of doing it next weekend. I think the freezing temps are over and even if not, it will barely get to 32. Freeze protect will handle it. No heater just open the pool and get the water circulating for aesthetics.

Open or no?
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Calcium Hardness Ideal Level

Last week I tested my calcium hardness and the result was 307. I could be mistaken, but I think the Pool Math app told me that level was fine when I entered it. Now it’s a week later and I’ve added some other updated results (TA went down by 20), and the app is telling me the calcium hardness is too low. It is recommending 450 (ideal range 350-550 and safe range up to 650!)

The app recommendation seems quite high when I see other places online recommend for it to be between 200 and 400 for a plaster pool.

What is causing this high CH recommendation and can I trust it?

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Pool Pump Recommendation for Saltwater Pool Hayward Sand Filter

My pool pump took a dump and I am need of a replacement. I am needing some help trying to figure out what pump to get. I am not trying to break the bank with a $1000 pump. Here is my current setup:

-40,000 galloon saltwater pool

-Hayward SwimPure Plus SWP15 salt chlorinator

-Hayward Pro Series 30" sand filter Model S310S

-Current pump is Hayward SS 1.1HP 230V HST110 motor

I was looking at these pumps from Aquastrong, either the SS:

Amazon.com

or the VS: Amazon.com

However, after doing a bit a research, I think they may have too high of a flow rate. I am calculating that I can max at 98GPM due to the filter, and then 73GPM since I have 2" pipes. Am I correct on this? Looking for some tips!

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When my FC is 30 and water temp is cold, 65-70F how valid are other tests?

as the title says my FC is 30 (started out high when I closed and still 30 when I opened a few days ago) and water temp is cold, 65-70F how valid are other tests?

My Ph is 7.2 to 6.8 after a few days of testing. High FC mean Ph test is not valid?
CYA is 50
TA is off the charts. last fall was in 80's now 300. Is the test valid?

I'm leaving the auto cover open for our 70's sunny days trying to burn off the FC and the SWG has not been turned on yet.
I assume without pool use and cool cloudy days it will take some time to get the FC back down below 10?

Testing a Used Intex SX2800 Sand Pump and Filter

Greetings!
Last Fall (2024), I received a used SX2800 Sand Filter and Pump from a friend who was moving. She hadn't used it since Fall 2023.

I want to test the pump before purchasing sand and filling the sand filter. My question...can I bypass the sand filter and directly connect the pump to the pool using the corresponding outlet and inlet connections to the pool. Will that damage the pump in any way?

Pool water is clean and balanced. Pool is covered with solar cover, so minimal debris.
Thanks!!

How to make this gate pool-safe?

I would like to use this as a pool-safe perimeter fence and am wondering what I'm up against. This would allow me to tear down a smaller wrought iron fence that is closer to the pool.

Reading city codes, I'm not seeing anything to rule this out, but I think I need to:

1. Raise the latches to 60" off the ground
2. Install springs to make them self-closing

Does that sound right? First priority is safety, but secondary I would like it to be able to pass inspection if we sell the home someday.

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Pool is kicking my butt.

Recent test results:

FC - .4 CC - .2 PH - 6.8 TA - 250 CH - 270 CYA - 40

That was about 4pm yesterday. I aerated the pool and brought the pH up to 7.6 when I checked it at 9pm. I poured the recommended amount of muriatic acid before bed, then aerated again early in the morning. pH was 7.4 this morning. This afternoon it had dropped to below 7 again.

I’m trying to get my TA down but I don’t understand why the pH would be dropping over time instead of raising.

The chlorine is another issue. I’m going through gallons of the stuff weekly. I guess it’s fighting algae and I plan on doing the SLAM soon, I just haven’t had a chance yet. I think I need to bring my CYA up as well because the pool gets a lot of direct sunlight.

Any pointers?

Starting Slam for a friend

Trouble Free Pool Method Only! IS THIS CORRECT!
Starting the Slam Process on a 16x36ft. 3-8 ft depth with 5ft average. Approx 22,000 gallons correct me if I'm wrong on that.
Taylor K2006C test kit.
FC-0
CYA-0
PH-8+(unknown how high shooting for 7.2)
TA 120(shooting for 80)
CH-0
Ready to start the SLAM.
STEPS
1.Lower PH to 7.2(which will lower TA also)
2.CYA to 40-50
3.SLAM WITH 10% POOL BLEACH.

Will this stock tank plan work?

Hey all,

I have a cabin in the woods. Off grid. very wooded and shaded.

Would love to have a stock pool but it is a little tricky since no power or water. 6ft poly round. Let me know if this will work -

Since I am only there every other weekend I will need to set this to work while I am gone: I will set it to catch rain run off my metal roof (I do this for my non drinking water for 15 years). I'll have it go through a filter and I will put a chlorine tab in it to make sure it comes into the stock tank clean and chloroinzed. I will keep the tank completely covered so nothing can get in and no light can enter as well. I will set up a solar powered pond pump to create some water movement in the tank during day time to prevent stagnation. Only during day time will it move the water.

Next when I come there, and assuming it will be full, I will run a sand filter and UV filter as well as adjust the chlorine level of the water

I will let this run for 3 hours or so. I then think I can use it. Right? I will run it every day while I am there for 3 hours on the sand filter and uv filter.

Then before leaving I will raise the chlorine level to be on the higher side, put in a chlorine floater, and set up the solar pump again. I won't let any rain run off to go in again and keep it covered really well to prevent anything falling in or light getting in there.

When I get back a week or so later I will repeat the process of the sand filter and uv.

I will empty it before winter.

Please let me know if this should work.

Uri

Putting cell on timer wiring

I've been a bad boy and have been relying on flow switch for cell operation. Want to use the mechanical timer that is not in use as primary now. ChatGPT has given a great starting point but looking for any instruction from the smart folks here.

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First SLAM — vacuum question

I’ve got some persistent CC and didn’t pass the OCLT so here we go!

Don’t see any green, no visible signs, but the OCLT tells me it’s there…

I’ve read all the guidelines and feel comfortable enough with the process. I’ve had my eye on a wall whale and a corner brush so those are on the way here tomorrow.

One question: I’ve got my Polaris pressure side (“Mr. Flowboto”) but no separate vacuum. Okay to use him to do the instructed vacuuming? Standard bag okay or should I grab the sand and silt version?

Patched leak is still leaking

Our pool leaked for the second winter in a row, we opened and were still losing water, so we had divers come. They found a small leak by the stairs and patched it up. We are still losing water! Last night it was right above the arrow on the skimmers and this morning it is right below them so I’m assuming about an inch overnight.

The divers are going to come back out to check again.

We also have a lot of dirt on the bottom of the pool which they said could be from the rip. After it was patched, dirt kept coming in.

I’ve attached pictures from opening and after the rip was patched for reference.

Any thoughts? Could it be another liner tear or something bigger (i.e. in the pipes)?

Thanks for your help!

IMG_3457.jpeg

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Future Way or Pool Pure Filters

Does anyone have any experience with Pool Pure or Future Way replacement cartridges. When we installed the pool almost five years ago we used OEM Hayward filters. They have been great. Obviously the off-brand filters are much less expensive. I've often found you get what you pay for, and I can't really complain about getting 5 years out of the Haywards before they started falling apart, but just thought it might be worth asking about these brands because they get good reviews on Amazon. Thanks!

Thoughts on this new Jandy valve

I bought 6 Jandy valves from Discount Pool Supplies Online | Pool Equipment & Parts 5 are fine & one looks like it is used or rebuilt. The surface is rough, looks like it is chipped from having the top popped off & the UPC symbol is smeared. I asked for an RMA and they told me to get lost. I'm simply concerned that I don't want to replumb my setup with a part that I don't trust.

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Is it the Jandy temp sensor?

4 yr old all Jandy system
Aftwr replacing the salt chlorinator i found i couldnt control my JXI heater with my iaqualink I could turn on the heater manually but when in remote mode nothing And the heater light wont turn on the motherboard /electrical panel i replaced the thermostat on the heater but nothing
Salt chlorinator wont turn on because it isn't getting message the water is warm enough to work
The Jandy support said it was likely the 7790 Temperature Sensor. (I checked all cables nothing frayed or broken so guessing just worn out inside)
Has anyone replaced these before? It sticks into the pipe - is it as easy as pulling out the old and sticking in the new? How do you ensure it doesnt leak? (I see how to do the electrical part and it looks easy)
will the non oem ones fit? They are about 1/4 the price but I just worry about leaking

Goodbye pool and TFP

Today I sign the purchase agreement for a new (to me) condo. Unfortunately, that means this will be my last few months with a pool and checking in with TFP. The pool has been good and bad but overall, I’ve enjoyed it. The bad is that I spent a lot of money to install it in the hope that it would be a gathering place in the summer and draw that family (grandchildren) toward us. Disappointing to report that it did not go as planned and it became something that mostly just me and my wife used. The good is that I did enjoy the times we did get together and enjoy the pool and the tinkerer in me enjoyed learning about the process of maintaining it. One significant pain point was dealing with the builder. Won’t go into details but the mistakes they made catch my eye and irritate me to this day, our sixth season.

I’m thankful that I found TFP early on in pool ownership. I only got “pool stored” for the first couple months of pool ownership and following TFP made keeping the water clear and safe a breeze. Seriously, with a SWG and a robot along with few minutes of brushing and skimming, the pool never took much time at all to maintain. I appreciate the help from the expert team here but I have to give a shout out to @Newdude who seemed to always be there to respond to my questions. Thank you!

So, over the next few months, I’ll move into a new home and sell this house to someone else. I’m thinking about how to transfer my knowledge of the pool over to a new person. I was thinking of offering a few hours of my time to get them going. There’s no doubt I’ll be recommending that they get on this site and buy the pool math app and use tftestkits for supplies.

The condo has a community pool. I doubt we’ll use it. I’d want to test their water and I doubt they’d listen to my TFP suggestions but you never know, I may do that. :)

Thank you Trouble Free Pool.

First full set of tests for this year.

Opened my pool a few days ago and added chlorine. Today I got around to doing a full test.

FC 14
pH 7.3 (somewhere between 7.2 and 7.5)
TA 50
CH 50
CYA 30
Salt 1800

Clearly I need to add stabilizer. I'll get on that first. I'll probably also get some salt in there. Not sure what to do about the pH. It stayed in the very low 7's all year - never naturally increased. I might add something to bring that up a bit this year. I'll have to read up on that because I believe it impacts alkalinity. First thing's first - to the store for CYA and Salt.

Second issue is a question about salt. My SWG says salt is 2900 and my test says 1800. I try to keep it around 3000 so no doubt I'll put in a bag, maybe two. Question is, does it matter? If the unit thinks it's at 2900, isn't that all that matters? Won't it still keep making chlorine as long as there is actually salt in the water, rather than be 2900 per the unit, or 1800 per my test kit? BTW, my test kit for salt is a 3 or 4 years old. It's always read different from the unit, but would it be worth getting a new test kit, or, basically rely on the unit and put in more salt based on that.

12v AC Colorlogic pool light drop-in replacement resolution

Hi all, after hours and hours of research, I finally found a replacement for my Hayward Colorlogic 12v AC pool lights. I thought I would post my solution here in case anyone is in a similar boat. There weren't many search results for my criteria, so hopefully this will help others find a solution. Please let me know if this is not the right place to post this.

I struggled to find anything suitable for my situation - I did not want to spend the $1,300 per light for a direct replacement since Hayward lights are finicky, and I do not trust Florida Sunseekers because of their lack of UL/ETL rating. Cheap Amazon lights were a definite no-go. Pentair Amerlite appears to be discontinued, Hayward Astrolite out of stock everywhere, and the majority of other listings were 120V or $800+. I already have a 120V -> 12/13/14v AC transformer installed and preferred to stay at 12v AC.

Buried under the Hayward Astrolite parts is the InyoPools Pureline 12v AC fixture:

I don't know why it doesn't show up as a result when searching, but the fixture is UL/ETL rated, a fraction of the price of other fixtures (hopefully only because of demand, not because of poor quality... I'll report back in a year), and is a drop-in replacement for the Hayward Colorlogic.

Now onto the hard part of running the new cord through the conduit... I have fish tape so we'll see how it goes. Open to advice!

Willerd

Chlorine, ozonator and THE SMELL

Thank you to everyone who helped me get off the ground a few weeks ago. Now it's time to fine-tune this relic as much as I can. First and foremost, I have to try and get a handle on that classic hot-tub "smell" that irritates my wife's sensitive olfactory senses (because ultimately, that's who this is for and all about, right?). I'm extremely confident and well versed in TFP techniques regarding pools, and my pools have been spotless and non-irritating to even the most sensitive of swimmers. But this hot tub, which gave off a chlorine/bromine (I found their stash of tablets) odor even before we filled it, is giving me fits. Both in terms of the smell bothering her and my inability to keep ahead of the chlorine use (I followed to the letter the sticky instructions on dichlor to chlorine). I just want us to be able to enjoy the spa without it irritating anyone.

And now I'm seeing information about a possible negative interaction between chlorine and an ozonator, which I believe I have but I have no indication if/when it works because I have no manual left by the previous owner. But I see labels on the internal workings that say ozone, and some online schematics include info about an ozonator (Jacuzzi model Z145). Could this interaction between the two be the cause of excess irritants or my low FC levels? Would disconnecting the ozonator be a good idea?

Need help with spa “wall” repair

This past winter’s storms and near-zero freezes damaged the “wall” around my outdoor pool’s spa. Initially I thought that I just needed to re-attach and re/grout the spa tiles using Leslie’s Patch-It, but as I removed tile after tile I noticed that a small amount of the “substrate” beneath some of the tiles is damaged. By substrate, I’m referring to the structure beneath the tiles - which appears to be concrete.
There are several spots where the “concrete” beneath the tiles is cracked, and several 1/2” chunks simply fell out.
I’m not in financial position to pay big $$ for an expert’s repair.
Can I use concrete to fill the damaged areas and cracks, then allow that to cure, and then proceed to use Patch-It to secure the tiles? If so, is there a specific product recommended?
I have no experience with this specific type of repair; however, I did build my own pool equipment pad several years ago, using rock, rebar, etc, which has held up 100% for several years, but this damaged spa wall needs a very smooth surface on which to re-seat tiles.
I’m looking for professional-quality answers: what specific material would be best to repair/replace the damaged area beneath the tiles.
Thanks in advance!
I covered the damaged area with a tarp, so closeup pics are not currently available as it is raining hard today in Texas. Included one pic, but can provide more after things dry up over the next few days.
I appreciate your help!
John in DFW

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Thank you for 4 years trouble-free!

I don't contribute much (read: at all), but I just wanted to chime in to say thank you to all who contribute to this site!

I have had my pool for just over 4 years now (it's a ~15k gal Blue Haven gunite/pebble plaster/salt water/cartridge filter pool). From the time I filled in up in early April of 2021, it has NEVER been anything but crystal clear--this even with a dog that routinely likes to jump onto the sun ledge. And yes, that includes all 365 each year. When we got our rare snow fall this year, I have a beautiful picture of our crystal-clear pool surrounded by a blanket of white (when I find the pic I'll be sure to come back and post it). That is all a credit to you all!

I recommend this site to all my pool-owning coworkers and friends--and pretty much anytime someone brings up pool maintenance.

To anyone new pool ownership. Read Pool School and follow it! You won't be sorry!

Thanks again!

-Tommy

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