Expert in Cordless Pool Cleaning Robots – Tips & Recommendations for Purchase and Discussion

I want to chime in here for the Beatbot Aquasense. I recently posted a thread on it:

Thread 'My Robots Review - Beatbot and Bettabot' My Robots Review - Beatbot and Bettabot

This is my first robot. In a previous pool, I had a Polaris 260 with a booster pump. It did OK in our pool, but the Bettabot Aquasense is many times better.

I stick with tried and true technology for all my appliances. I wait for all the bugs to be worked out before I purchase. I've done this with cars, washers, dryers, computers, and now pool robots, with a very good success record thus far. 😀

I think 🤔 pool robots are rapidly evolving and are only going to get better over time. However, so many companies are entering the market presently, it's becoming increasingly confusing and difficult for the average consumer to sort through the massive amounts of information and "expert" reviews. This can result in "Paralysis by Analysis". 😅

I think folks have come to expect FAR too much from these wireless robots. No appliance will ever relieve the pool owner of occasionally picking up your pool pole with a brush or skimmer and physically participating in making your pool water beautiful. My Beatbot Aquasense, along with the Bettabot skimmer relieves me of probably over 90% of my manual maintenance. The remaining 10% I view as aquatic therapy. 😇

Now back to the Beatbot Aquasense. Since the model I purchased is a previous version, I paid less than I would for the latest and greatest. I think the current models are too expensive. As the OP stated, paraphrasing, sometimes manufacturers try and do too much with one product - like the newest Beatbots skimming function. A dedicated skimmer robot in addition to your bottom/wall/waterline cleaner is money better spent.

I've only had the Beatbot Aquasense for a few months, so more time is needed to evaluate its long-term performance. But right now? I am 100% pleased with its performance. It does everything the manufacturer claims. Sometimes it misses a spot. I'm good with that, and doubt ANY robot achieves 100% perfection 100% of the time.

Will I buy another Beatbot? 🤔 No clue. We'll see how the 3-year warranty period goes and I'll let you know then.

Good luck to everyone and I hope you find the best robots for your $$$.
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Pool opened test results

I just had my pool opened. This year I instructed my pool company not to add any PH or TA chemicals as well as stabilizer as last year it was very high.
They added Shock that did not include stabalizer, Salt and DE

I did a partial drain and refill late last year and the pool co. lowered the water before closing so I added after opening. This helped lower my CYA.

Here are my numbers using the Taylor pro test kit after running the pump 24 hrs.

CYA 60 Looks like it's no longer high and I will need to add stabilizer
FC 13.5 I'm going to turn off the SWG for a couple days to lower this
CC 0
PH 8.2
TA I had a hard time here. The water turned pink but not really red after adding the R009 reagent. If the pink is correct my TA was 50.
I continued adding drops the solution ended up yellow .I added well over 20 drops and stopped as I ran just about out of reagent.


I'm not sure what to do here with the PH high and the TA.



I appreciate any input.

Thanks

Helpppppp

Ok this is where I’m at……..I stuck a hose between skimmer (by the pool) toward the skimmer basket ( at the equip) turned water on and water passed through.

Next I blew the skimmer pipe with compresser from equip pad toward pool and got the air bubbles.

Next I plugged the two closest returns and blew toward far two returns……got strong air bubbles.

I still can’t get the pump basket fully primed. In fills up 3/4 and pump just runs and runs.

I also silicon all unions and connections at equip pad. No water leaks…….im at a loss

New to testing

Hope someone can help me again: I'm trying to find muriatic acid. I see on Homedepot.com 1 gallon of Klean Strip muriatic acid for $9.98. It's advertised as a concrete product.
Is this the right thing for pools? I also can't seem to find the % acid contents on the product (14.5% or 29%).

The only other one I see online is this listing from Lowe's for 2 gallons of Muriatic Acid 14.5% for $15.98

Thanks all!

Updating/Upgrading Pool Systems

First, I apologize for the length of this post!

I'm making my way through the vast amounts of information on TFP and it's been eye opening. Previous home was saltwater pool maintained by local national company. Our goal is to get to a point to maintain pool ourselves at new house. However, to get to that point, I think our equipment needs updating/upgrading as it appears the previous owner did some not-so-stellar DIY. Current SWG isn't working so pool guy is treating it like a normal chlorine pool. Working with a local, independent pool service, he's making some recommendations for equipment: Hayward TriStar VS 950 & 3-way valve for $2400, Hayward w/Omni Control SWG for $3200, Hayward 200 level filter. He doesn't mention the level of the cell or filter so I need to speak with him more about his plans. The salt cell looks to be a generic model since there's no type of writing on it at all. Attached are pictures of current setup and a brand new pool pump left by previous owner. I do want to get to some level of automation. The local guy doesn't want anything to do with "Amazon parts" so is avoiding the new CicuPool pump that was left by previous owner. Is the local guy charging too much? Are the items he is recommending overkill for the size of my pool? Hayward vs Pentair is like Ford vs Chevy... Also, I will be purchasing the TFP recommended pool test kit.

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Removing old breaker

But since it was electrical
Did they prove the breaker was bad, or just want you to spend $150 plus labor on 'it might work and its cheaper than a new pump' ?


Haha very appropriate question
Nobody is dying today from something stupid if we have anything to say about it. :hug:

James covered you above. Make sure the house breaker is off too and confirm the panel is dead with a handheld voltage detector.
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Do I even need a valve?

How do you plan to winterize? This decision will help you formulate your plans.
I remove all my plumbing and plug the returns with screw in plugs and leave the equipment outside fully drained, plugs out. The only thing I leave attached is the piece between the pump & filter.
I leave the valve under the skimmer open without anything attached to it after.

Yes, unions in the right places do a couple things:
Make it easy to remove a piece of equipment or plumbing without cutting
&
Allow you to screw on fittings without undoing whats down the line

Filter