Pas_pool said:

He is getting back to me with a price. But he did say that he has the same exact set up as me on his pool and he runs his pump at 2200rpm 24/7

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I wish the pump manual would just say what gpm you run at each rpms…

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:

Just use it for make-up water. This will essentially stabilize your current calcium levels.

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My current level is too high :-/

Well, I'm a stubborn *******, so at the risk of prematurely destroying the resin beads, I decided to try anyway.

It works!
First, the water coming directly out of the unit has a calcium content less than 25ppm (the drop test starts magenta and goes blue with one drop).
Second, the calcium in the pool has dropped to near 200ppm.

There were some growing pains along the way.
At first it wasn't consuming salt. Oh no! But I also realized that there wasn't any liquid in the recharge drain line. Although my little pump was capable of pulling 2.7GPM through the nearly 200' of 1/2" line, it couldn't do that and recharge. So I started closing the return to the pool when I went to bed, and opening it first thing in the morning. The softener was set to recharge at 2AM, so it got to use all of that pump's output to recharge.
Shortly after that, my $50 Amazon Special pump died. It was probably only rated at a few hundred hours.
I replaced it with a brushless pump rated at 20k hours and 24h duty cycle.

I'm hoping in another week or so to drop below 100ppm, at which point, I'll probably stop.

Hammerhead also makes a battery operated one that includes the battery and charger. I think it is still around $1100. It is less heavy duty then the riptide. I have a LifePO4 battery from Amazon and a multi purpose charger conditioner. On a full charge, I can do about 4 cleaning (30 minutes run time each). The riptide is actually heavier than the battery. The reason I prefer the battery is that I don't have to be tethered to an outlet. After several trial and error, I only have to move my battery box 2 twice to reach 95 percent of the pool and without getting my feet wet.

I do understand that it might be an overkill for some folks. But it is so satisfying to see an equipment that actually will suck debris without rolling directly over it. The riptide is the land version of a powerful shop vac.

Heater, I am assuming, is connected to the second set of Line and load screws on the third relay hence why it is also not functioning.

Welcome to TFP. Check out some of the troubleshooting tips in the following article.

Thanks @Jimrahbe for the detailed step by step guide I appreciate it.

Checked voltages of all three relays all have 120v at the line side. Flipped all three on one by one and tested the load side all of which have no voltage showing (0.11 or so).

Aux 1 is pool lights
Aux 2 is spa lights
Aux 3 is blower for spa

4 other relays have nothing coming in and no power to them from the breakers.

The “dip switches” I was referring to are the two ULN2803 relay driver Chips on the main board. They were $7 on Amazon for 10 of them and same night I had the issue there was lightning in the distance and some neighbors were talking about power surges. I took a shot here I know.

Here is a picture of inside my panel as well. Bunch of ants in there but do not see any frayed wires or burn marks on anything.

There are multiple wires that connect to the relay. Which ones are for the pump and which ones are for the SWG?

PoolStored said:

I put one on mine. Just cause heaters are expensive.

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He is getting back to me with a price. But he did say that he has the same exact set up as me on his pool and he runs his pump at 2200rpm 24/7

Yes. Use schedule 40 not dwv.

I put one on mine. Just cause heaters are expensive.

PoolStored said:

Just ask him, "My heat pump has a minimum flow of 30GPM. I would think that is important to protect my heater. How do I know when I'm moving 30GPM? What RPM will give me at least 30 gpm?"

Post

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My PB said he can do a flow meter. Not sure what that is?

Jenmachen said:

ordered the paramount, looking forward to it!

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Keep us up on how the installation goes and if you’re seeing a benefit from its use.

.... waiting for pool to blow up and then for wife to blow up.....

I assume you checked all the wire connections? power and RS485?

Can you connect the control/display panel on the pump to see if you can get it to work from that? This would help determine if the issue is in the pump or in the Aqua Plus controller.

JoyfulNoise said:

Paramount also makes a straight UV system, the UltraUV. They are customizable with the number of bulbs (1,2, or 3). They’re fairly simple to setup and install.

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ordered the paramount, looking forward to it!

The suction side has no pressure so any leak there will suck air in. Past the pump is the pressure side so any leak there will be a visible water leak.

The problem was the skimmer issue you pointed out.

For the valve handle, ever since changing the gasket, it has now become loose. I attached a photo. Also getting low pressure out of my jets.

Get a meter out and check to see if the pump has power. As ajw22 stated the pumps display panel may be blank because it's disconnected. If the pump has no power, check the relay to see if there is power going in and out of it. If the pump has power than it is not getting a signal from the RS485 cable to run. Check to see if the controller is getting power. If you need to run the pump disconnect the controller and connect the panel on the pump and use that to manually run the pump. You may need do some wiring to get constant power to the pump.

Post a full set of current test results using your TF-Pro test kit.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temperature

If you did an ascorbic acid trearment and then didn't do a full drain/refill, you will need to continue adding the sequestrant to keep the iron in solution - otherwise the iron will redeposit on the pool surface.

Small particles floating on the pool surface are settling out of the air.

Disconnect the pump or SWG and see if the breaker still trips when only one is connected. As state above also connecting the pump and SWG to a different breaker if one is available is a good test to see what component the problem follows. Also check the connections to make sure they are all tight. Most likely the breaker is the issue. If you had a lot of rain and the pump is exposed there is a chance water got in it and is causing a current leak to ground or the bonding wire.