New pool owner here with a stain or algae problem. The pool is salt water, 7200 gallons and less than a year old. Several neighbors recommend TFP and I have been bingeing on it for two days. My pool service doesn’t know what is is and wants to drain the pool and acid wash it. I don’t think that is the right course to take based on research on this site and speaking with other knowledgeable pool owners. I had the water tested by a commercial pool company and tested it myself using the Taylor K-2005 Kit AND A ORAPXI salt tester. The readings were the same in both tests. Should I begin by adjusting the water balances and then SLAM it? Or is more work needed to identify what he stain/algae is?

Photos and testing results attached

Thanks,

Paul

If you know, you know.

I found when considering a bypass, that there are primarily 2 types of responses I would get when inquiring about the pros and cons.
1. I don't see why you would want to install a heater bypass, but I cant see how it could hurt anything. (My builder was in this group as well)
2. It's a good thing to have during startup, slamming or any high chemical concentrations or if you have heater equipment failure and need to take it offline for repairs.

The split was about 50/50. The reasons I was considering installing the bypass was for the startup chemicals and potential future shock treatments. But mainly to take it offline 8 or 9 months a year to potentially help it last longer. Since there weren't any real CONS even from group A, I went ahead and installed one. To my suprise, there is a HUGE benefit that, IMO is a strong case that EVERYONE with a heater should have a bypass option installed.

It's all about power/energy savings. In my case, the operating power required, at 30gpm, is cut in half when I'm using the bypass!!! Pushing water through the heater at 30GPM takes 338 Watts, whereas bypassing the Heater it takes only 157 Watts for the same 30GPM. The energy savings of course would vary based on Flow rate, other plumbing considerations, heck even the cleanliness of the filters might effect it. However at the moment in time that I noticed this, it was a 50% difference. I felt it was an important enough positive for the bypass that I had to share.

I'd be curious if anyone else has looked into this on their pool? I'd love to hear what your findings are with and without the bypass.

Regular plumbing water going THROUGH the heater.


Using the Bypass, no water passing through the heater.

This goes against most of the analysis in the forums - specifically the assertion that we do not need an external bypass since an internal bypass exists in the heater- And placing one will let water sit in the coils for an extended period of time.
I would like to disagree based primarily on the diagram below- please correct me if my analysis is wrong.
The internal bypass and the thermal regulator valves are what I focused on.
1- when the heater is off- the thermal regulator valve is closed off. All the water flow is forced to go through the internal bypass. Any water that is in the coils remains there. If you don’t use your heater for months, that water will remain the coils for months.
So when the heater is off - the drop in psi is primarily across the internal bypass valve.
2- When the heater is functional the thermal regulator valve opens to varying degrees based on the temperature of the water coming from the coils. At very high flows if the temperature change is not significant the valve closes and more of the water is shunted through the bypass valve. Also at high flows- the bypass valve prevents too much flow through the coils. ( same thing as prior sentence but for a different reason- mechanical and flow balance versus appropriate heat transfer)

in essence, an external bypass it’s completely different than the internal bypass of the heater. When the heater is nonfunctional the external bypass gives the benefit of reduced TDH added by the internal bypass valve. with a VS pump I can further drop my RPM and get the same flows with significant energy savings.
No numbers- I would guess the internal bypass valve has a cross sectional area of a 1.5 PVC pipe? And the spring load- a 3-4 psi drop?
A first order analysis- please correct if there are other systems and bits I have overlooked.

I successfully closed by myself.

I vacuumed the pool this morning.

Tested the water and shocked the pool.

I did not buy into the algaecide this year. Just not using it.

Started to drain water off via backwash/rinse/ waste and using 2 sump pumps.

Disconnected the pipe from filter and blew the line as much as I could. I then reversed it and suctiononed the line. Poured antifreeze down skimmer hole and added the gizmo. Went back to pump and removed manifold and SWG. Loosened fittings at heater and blew heater out.

Blew all return lines and capped. So here's my helper... I cut a pool noodle to shove one end in the vac hose and the other in the return line so I could cap while it was still blowing. Worked so well!!!



The only line I cannot blow is the slide line, I suction it and add a gallon of antifreeze to every line.

I finally covered it all by myself.


I pulled the plugs on the pump and put all my eyeball fittings in the pump basket. I started at 10am was finished by 3pm. I'll clean the filter this weekend.

Hi! I know there are many similar posts from this season and years past but I wanted to get feedback on my plan. I've opened my pool by myself before (with help from TFP), but never closed it. I'm nervous. A big shout out to Newdude, who has already talked me through some of the preliminary steps.

I have a 15x30 in-ground pool. One skimmer. Dual main drain. Three returns. Cartridge filter. SWG.

1) Balanced water. Add correct dose of polyquat 60, circulate.
2) Robot to get rid of debris
3) Drain pool water to four inches below returns. Remove skimmer basket and return eyeballs.
4) ?turn off power at circuit breaker
5) Turn valve to close off main drain, but open up skimmer
6) Use Cyclone blower with hose in skimmer- turn on until no more water through returns. (I have short hose and adapter)
7) Turn valve to close skimmer and open main drains
8) Cyclone on until no longer seeing bubbles from pool floor
9) While cyclone is still on, turn valve to close off main drain for air lock (do I turn this back to open skimmer or to closing inlet)
10) RV antifreeze in 3 returns. Plug returns. Antifreeze in skimmer (down skimmer hole and also in area that would house basket in summer).
11) Gizzmo in skimmer
12) Add extra empty bottles to skimmer to take up space? Add an empty bottle with a little antifreeze to place where weir door usually is (I heard about that on YouTube, might be silly)
13) Remove all plugs from equipment.
14) Cover pool (hopefully with my husband's help, as I almost fell into the pool when I opened it alone)

Questions:
a. Do I remove filter cartridges before step 4?
b. In other threads, I've read 'filter set to recirculate'. I don't know what that means. Is that something I have to do with cartridge filter?

Thanks so much for looking. I can take pictures of the equipment tomorrow if needed

I just learned that the water in my moms inground pool has been removed. The pool was built in 1982 not sure what it is made of but the plaster or gunite is coming off. Do not know how long the water has been out maybe two years could be more. I will post some pics. The pool is in Chico Ca.

Pentair IntelliCenter Pool Control Dashboard Instructional Guide
(nodejs-poolController and nodejs-poolController-dashPanel)



- Table of Contents –


1. Purpose and Background
There are a growing number of IntelliCenter users that are becoming increasingly dissatisfied with the lack of reliability and functionality regarding the Pentair IntelliCenter webClient, mobile apps and the Amazon Alexa Skill. Not to mention the complete unavailability of once advertised features such as the Apple WatchOS app, Google Assistant, Siri/HomePod, Google Home and Apple HomeKit.

I have certainly experienced the same dissatisfaction with Pentair’s "Human to Machine Interfaces (HMI's)" ever since my initial IntelliCenter installation in the fall of 2018. Given this fact, I began to explore the possibility of other “alternative” controllers / interfaces in late 2019.

Presently, there are several "alternative options", that can be employed for use with the Pentair IntelliCenter as well as IntelliTouch and EasyTouch (*Touch). These options allow users the ability to no longer rely on the Pentair IntelliCenter production (prod) servers and consequently the Pentair webClient/mobile apps for their controller and interface needs.

Besides the Pentair controllers and interfaces (and all of the restrictions and reliability issues that those present to the user), there are two other IntelliCenter controller/HMI's, that I am presently familiar with and which are listed below:


2. Credits
Although I just happened to be the one that began the initial development of this instructional guide outline, and performed the instructional steps validation and the formatting and posting of this thread, I certainly cannot take all that much credit for much of the technical details contained within.

This was a collaborative effort between myself, @cmc0619 and @Katodude, who both contributed a great deal of time, knowledge and expertise. Not only towards this goal, but also for providing me with quite a bit of Raspberry Pi and Linux command-line assistance as well.

I would personally like to give @tagyoureit many thanks and credit for his development of the nodejs-poolController and its associated webClient. The poolController is the primary means to which to communicate with and control the Pentair compatible pool equipment. This latest release of version 6.0.0, takes this pool controller to new heights and now natively supports IntelliCenter up to and including the latest firmware beta releases, as well as the controlling of IntelliTouch and EasyTouch now. Thanks again @tagyoureit for the many hours of dedicated work on this controller!! Awesome!

Lastly, an enormous amount of credit (and thanks) go to @rstrouse. Without his advanced technical prowess in this realm and his incredible time devotion to this interface, the Pool Control Dashboard would not exist.

I would also like to thank him for his many hours of direct poolController and dashPanel assistance to me. This was due in large part to my “non-standard” IntelliCenter configuration and non-standard equipment setup requirements. Also, many thanks go out to him, for his assistance in providing much of the needed technical information scattered throughout this instructional guide as well as the final “proofing”.

And to all of the above, thanks so much for all of the patience with this Raspberry Pi/Linux command-line noob and for showing me how to “color between the lines” correctly. I have and I continue to learn a tremendous amount from you all!

3. Theory
Currently, most IntelliCenter users utilize a Pentair developed webClient (browser), and/or a mobile application to interface with their IntelliCenter panels (OCP). This is normally accomplished via or “through” the Pentair IntelliCenter prod servers. As most have sadly discovered, the reliability of these servers is at times, “marginal-at-best”. In addition, although they are functional to some extent, many would agree that the Pentair IntelliCenter webClient, mobile apps as well as the ScreenLogic app are cumbersome, outdated, lacking in advanced functionality and are not supported by necessary improvements and upgrades.

In order to combat this unfortunate reality, the IntelliCenter and *Touch user has the option to utilize other user controllers and/or interfaces now. One such alternative is the node.js-poolController-dashPanel (Pool Control Dashboard), which utilizes a computer to act as a host instead of using the Pentair servers. In other words, the host computer works as a server in the same way essentially, as do the Pentair Prod Servers.

However, unlike the Pentair servers, which utilize an internet connection to communicate with the users’ IntelliCenter OCP, the host computer is connected directly to the IntelliCenter RS485 bus (Serial COM Port) which will be explained in more detail below. This fact, greatly enhances the “reliability” factor since the user has complete “control” over connectivity with their automation system.

The actual nodejs-poolController-dashPanel UI is also a webClient but again, unlike the Pentair webClient, the internet is not necessary for connectivity. The nodejs-poolController-dashPanel typically only requires the utilization of the users’ local area network (LAN) in. In addition, through the use of VPN technology, remote access (outside of the LAN) to the control panel can also be realized.

There are two (2) components to this free software which is located on the GitHub repository hosting service and which also provides access control and several collaboration features as well as “WiKi” pages and task management tools.


4. Hosting Platform Options
The nodejs-poolController-dashPanel can be hosted from a Windows platform, Apple Mac or a Linux machine.

However, in this guide, the platform that will be discussed in detail is the “Raspberry Pi” or otherwise known as a “Pi” and abbreviated as RPi in this instructional guide. The RPi is a low cost, credit-card sized computer that can utilize a standard computer monitor or TV, and can use a standard computer keyboard and mouse (I/O devices).

However, typically a monitor, keyboard and mouse are not particularly necessary once the RPi has been properly configured to run a remote desktop program such as RealVNC or some other suitable remote desktop server/viewer.

More information regarding the Raspberry Pi computer can be found in the following link.


5. Location and Connectivity Considerations and Options
There are several options available to the user when it comes to selecting an applicable permanent location for the Raspberry Pi, as well as how the Raspberry Pi will connect to both the users’ LAN and the users’ Pentair automation system (IntelliCenter, IntelliTouch, EasyTouch) - RS485 bus (Serial COM Port).

This instructional guide will list some possibilities and combinations that are typical, however there are always “outliers” that may have been missed here.

Lastly within this section, I will document my experiences and reasoning behind selecting the location for my own Raspberry Pi, as well as my personally chosen connectivity options between the RPi, my LAN and my IntelliCenter RS485 bus.

Location options and considerations
The typical location options for the Raspberry Pi are either in the users’ residence or located at the pool equipment pad.

Considerations when selecting the appropriate location for your particular requirements should be based on the following:

• Accessibility
• Environmental
• LAN connectivity for the RPi (wired vs wireless (Wi-Fi)
• RS485 bus (Serial COM port) connectivity (This is the physical (wired) connection between the RPi and the RS485 bus (Serial COM port)
• Power considerations for the Raspberry Pi

Hi all,

Last year, I integrated my solar pool heater into my home automation system so I could see temperatures and pool heating state. See How I added a Hayward solar pool control to HA via ESPhome

Now, my next project is to add an actuator to the valve to my pool waterfall that I want to control through automation.

This is the valve I intend to buy: actuator and I've seen on youtube how to set it to turn 90°, so I'm one step forward.

I also understood from a bunch of internet searches that I will need a 2 channel relay to make the valve turn in either direction - something like this: 2 channel relay board

That's about as far as I got with this...

How would the 3 wires (from the valve) connect into this board?
I'll then also have to figure out the ESPHome configuration

Anybody have any hints / suggestions?

Thanks a ton in advance,
Bernard.

Sunday project: replacing my old intermatic timer that controls the SWG with a sonoff R2 so I can do it from my phone and have a better control over the schedule (I'm also in the process of researching ripping it all out and going to a nixie standalone, but this is step one because the R2 is easy to come by and the raspberry pi is not).

it seems the pump is also wired in with the intermatic timer. I think I know how to wire the R2 for just the SWG on and off, but how do I handle the extra pump wiring here?

I'm trying to build my own pool automation using sonoff devices. for solar control I have the device/probe for water temp but I'm trying to implement the solar sensor part of the system (see image). Is there a device/sensor available to determine readiness of the panels to heat the water? How can the switching of the valve(s) be implemented. Trying to avoid any equipment that makes reference to fruit or berries.

Tested my water this morning at 9:00am and FC was 5.2. Had 3 kids and two adults in the pool for 3 hours or so. Tested water again at 5:00 and it was .4. Tested it again to be sure and again it was .4.

I did add some stabilizer, calcium carbonate, and salt this morning as well.

No clue why the big drop as I’ve had more people in the pool for longer without such a huge decrease.

Any thoughts?

I’ll try to attach my numbers from Pool Math

==========================================
Barcelona
------------------------------------------
Build Type: Fiberglass
Volume: 17500 gallons
------------------------------------------
Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 5.2 (8 hours ago)
CC: 0.2 (8 hours ago)
pH: 7.6 (8 hours ago)
TA: 60 (8 hours ago)
CH: 250 (8 hours ago)
CYA: 50 (8 hours ago)
SALT: 2600 (8 hours ago)
TEMPERATURE: 80° (8 hours ago)
CSI: -0.44 (8 hours ago)
==========================================
------------------------------------------
Chemical Addition 08-09-2023 @ 11:08 AM
------------------------------------------
+ 1 Pounds of DryStabilizer

------------------------------------------
Chemical Addition 08-09-2023 @ 11:07 AM
------------------------------------------
+ 40 Pounds of Salt

------------------------------------------
Chemical Addition 08-09-2023 @ 09:35 AM
------------------------------------------
+ 8 Pounds of CalciumChloride

------------------------------------------
Test Results 08-09-2023 @ 09:11 AM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 5.2
Combined Chlorine: 0.2
pH: 7.6
Total Alkalinity: 60
Calcium Hardness: 250
CYA: 50
Salt: 2600
Temperature: 80°F
CSI: -0.44

------------------------------------------
Test Results 08-07-2023 @ 11:17 AM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 5.6
Combined Chlorine: 0.0
pH: 7.6
Salt: 2600
CSI: -0.30

------------------------------------------
Test Results 08-05-2023 @ 12:53 PM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 5.5
Combined Chlorine: 0.0
pH: 7.8
CSI: -0.11

------------------------------------------
Test Results 08-03-2023 @ 11:34 AM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 5.0
Combined Chlorine: 0.2
pH: 7.6
Total Alkalinity: 60
CSI: -0.30

I just got to cross off ‘snows before Halloween’. The only spot I have left says something about Four Horsemen. IDK.

Especially when your new pool was finished in the fall and open for a hot 3 minutes before closing it for the winter. Every day I look at the pretty new pool and cannot wait for spring to at least get it open!

I'm having major climate jealousy right now living in PA

I am looking to purchase the radiant pool here on LONG ISLAND but have read mixed reviews about corrosion on the thin aluminum a couple years down the line . I sat with a local dealer and it was top dollar for this product and just get nervous putting Masonary all around this! Any help would be appreciated thanks in advance

Happy New Year to all got a great spread to post later

We are currently building a new home with a pool. Latham Cancun Deluxe with built in spa and tanning ledge. Not sure of all the specs yet. Pool equipment should be set up tomorrow. Excited to be a pool owner again and may need some refreshers along the way.

Greetings everyone. I just joined TFP and would appreciate your advice on pool testing. I bought a Taylor K-2006 test kit and performed all the recommended pool chemical tests several days in a row. I also took the same water sample I used for my tests to the local Leslie's Pool store and had them perform their test. The greatest difference between my Taylor test results and the Leslie's test results was in the alkalinity readings. My readings were 140 ppm, 160 ppm, and 150 ppm total alkalinity. The Leslie's test results were 75 from one store and 76 from another store. If my readings are correct, then I need to lower alkalinity, but if Leslie's are correct, then I need to raise it. You can see my conundrum. I am known to be a perfectionist and followed the testing videos on the Taylor website exactly, so I have some level of confidence in the readings I took given the good reputation of the Taylor test kit. Any advice? Thank you.

Curious at what RPM others have been running their in floor VSP.

I am at 3000 to get 20 psi at the new caretaker valve.

Newer sand filter gauge is running about 21 which is likely variation between instruments.

We've got pool consultations lined up and have started the planning process, so I just wanted to pop in and say hello. We're looking to have a roughly 18'x30' (maybe longer) freeform gunite pool installed later this year as part of a backyard renovation. I have an existing stand-alone HotSpring Grandee saltwater hot tub under our deck, so I'll be skipping an attached hottub. Instead, we'll likely go for a more elaborate waterfall setup. The pool will be recessed into the side of a hill, and we'd like to do a large rock/boulder retaining wall with a waterfall coming over the top, and perhaps steps up to a jumping rock. We'd also like a decent sized tanning ledge. I'm thinking of a modified kidney setup with a bump out for the tanning ledge. I'll definitely be going SWG, and I'm leaning toward cartridge filters. The only other concerns I have are tying in an existing 25'x25' brick patio with the pool decking and our current patio underdecking, which is slate. I'll try and get some pictures when I have a moment, and will also plan to seek out help with quotes, when they're available. Until then, feel free to offer up any suggestions.

So we are about 2 months in to owning a brand new pool, just converted to salt not long ago. Pump stopped working the other nigh, and prior to that we had received a couple of the email alerts saying that the communications cable was not communicating between the pump and the Intellicenter. We checked all connections, and they were secure and good. Power connections to the pump are good. We had an electrician out today before the PB comes back out tomorrow, just to check and verify that we had good power all the way to the pump, which we do.

My wife had called Pentair on Friday (this all happened Friday), and the guy on the phone immediately said it sounds like a bad drive, which he said has been an issue, and he started the warranty process right then without even verifying what it was. At that point we had not even checked the power. He assigned a ticket and another pool company, and we talked to them and they were confused as well. Our PB called and said they were looking into all this today, and talking with their Pentair rep, and they seem to think it's something else, but have not said what. I guess my question at this point is, has anyone here experienced this? None of the lights for power come on at the pump itself, but the electrician verified the power to it today. I'm really surprised that the pump went out that quick. The PB is sending a guy out in the morning to replace something, but they have not said what.

This year I plan to install a Pentair IC-60 for my pool. I've read a lot of threads and obviously the Salt Water Balance page .

Aggregating information from various threads, I came up with the following list:

Step 1. Balance pool water normally following TFP methodology

Please see the Pool School pages for more details. If algae is present or you have not passed an over night chlorine test (ONCT), then you need to continue to SLAM until you do so. Before proceeding any further, your pool should be at the recommended levels for non-SWG as per this page.

Step 2. Measure your salt levels of your existing non-SWG pool water

Your pool's water, whether it comes from your well or your public utility or a mix of both, may have already some residual salt in it. Therefore it is a good idea to first measure that salt so you can determine how much salt you want to add in the next step.

Step 3. Add your SWG's recommended amount of salt around the perimeter of the pool

Most SWG's want approximately 3000ppm of salt in the water give or take. You will need to figure out how much salt to add based on the number you found in step 2 as well as how many gallons of water is in your pool to reach your SWG's optimal level (e.g. the Pentair IC-60 considers 3400ppm optimal). There are many calculators on the web to give you an idea of how many pounds of salt you'll need based on these two parameters.

When you do add salt, make sure the pump is running. If you want to accelerate the process even further, stir the salt around after pouring it in so it dissolves faster. Usually 1-2 hours is enough to get the salt fully dissolved.

Step 4. Measure the salt level and verify you are at the right level

If you are not at your target for your specific SWG, add more salt or backwash to remove some of it. Again, continue to do this until you reach the optimal level.

Step 5. Turn on SWG but make sure percentage is set to zero (0%)

The SWG should be turned on now but you don't want to generate any chlorine just yet. Verify your SWG's cell salinity reading with your test kit/strip readings and make sure your unit is operating nominally (i.e. no error codes on the unit).

Step 6. Adjust the CYA, FC, pH, CH, and TA to optimum SWG levels

Please read the Water Balance for SWG article as well as the optimum FC/CYA charts for the optimum levels of these parameters.

Generally speaking, you'll want your CYA to hover around 70 and your FC to be around 5. TA around 60-80 and a pH in the upper 7's (7.6-7.8). CH depends on what type of pool you have. Again, read the articles above for details.

Step 7. Raise percentage of your SWG to start generating chlorine

You are now a GO! Depending on your SWG, you'll want to start with a high enough percentage to generate enough FC to maintain your pool and prevent an algae outbreak. A lot of folks seem to start with 40%, wait a few hours, and then retest their FC/CC chlorine levels. Your optimal time to test is in the late afternoon/evening when the sun is down so you can get a FC measure that is less effected by the sun and/or evaporation. Your goal here is to see if the SWG is maintaining enough FC throughout the day so you never dip below your target number (again around 5 with a CYA at 70). If you are dipping too low then you need to raise the percentage on the SWG; too low, then you need reduce the percentage on your SWG.

Please be aware that you now may have to run your pump longer to cycle the water through the SWG to manitain levels. So if you were running your pump say 6 hours a day, depending on your SWG that may now jump to 8 or even 12 hours a day depending on your pool size. On bigger pools, you may be running your pump 12 hours or more depending on how much FC your SWG makes. Some folks invest in a variable speed pump to mitigate the added energy costs because of this fact. Again, it all depends on your pool's size and particular SWG model.

Step 8. Check, check, and double check your pool's chemistry

Since this is your first install using SWG, you want to make sure there are no problems with your pool's chemistry after you are up and running. At least initially, once a day you want to test your FC/CC count as well as your TA and pH levels to ensure they are maintaining their nominal targets. It is imperative that you get this right to prevent problems down the road. Once the pool seems stabilized over a week or two, you can begin to back off testing every other day or however you feel is appropriate. Finally, you want to pay attention to your SWG's salt meter as well as do additional salt level tests throughout the season, especially if you get a lot of heavy rains. After a while you'll get a feel of how much adjusting/testing you'll need throughout the seasons based on ambient temperature and the size of your pool.

I'd really appreciate if some of the experts could confirm the list above. I also think a list like this should be a sticky (and I can volunteer to write it after confirming and cleaning up the above).

We have a vinyl lined, liquid chlorinated pool. When I've had the water tested at the pool store, they begin to freak out when they see a reading of 100. The pool store recommends a minimum of 250 ppm. But my TFP app says anything from 50-650 is normal...should I buy calcium hardness increaser? Or am I ok? Why sich a big range with the TFP method?
Thanks so much!

Hi all,

I have a Stenner E20PHG 71S7 peristaltic pump with a 15-gallon tank that was in use inside for about a year as part of a hydrogen peroxide dosing system to remove iron from well water. I ended up switching to an ozonation system which was worked much better for that purpose, and now have the pump and tank to get rid of. I know some of you folks use these for chlorine dosing. These are ~$500 new. If someone wants the pump for $275 or the tank and pump for $300, let me know. Thought I'd offer it here before listing it on eBay. I'm happy to pack and ship it to you if you'll just cover the actual shipping cost.

Thanks!

Wes

TO ALL INTELLICENTER USERS

Since the introduction of IntelliCenter nearly five years ago, I know that many of you have voiced your dissatisfaction here on the forum, regarding the outdated, user-unfriendly and overall “clunky” style of the IntelliCenter Web-Client (intellicenter2.com).

As some of you may be aware, for quite some time I have been attempting to “make-the-case” to Pentair, regarding an entire overhaul of the IntelliCenter Web-Client (better functionality, layout, navigation and overall more “user-friendly”).

Pentair is listening. However, they may require further justification in order to devote necessary resources towards a web-client overhaul. The decision for this action may simply come down to just how IntelliCenter users, actually utilize the web-client or if they even use the web-client at all.

I have proposed to Pentair, a polling / user-input of TFP members who use the IntelliCenter web-client (or not) and if so, how do they use it. They liked that idea, so here it is.
The polling has three options that a user may select as listed above. Please vote only if you are a current IntelliCenter user.

1. I only use the web-client for setting up configurations (i.e., Settings, Circuits, Valves, Heaters, Pumps, Schedules, etc.). And then I mostly use the mobile app (iOS or Android), for typical pool control.
2. I use the web-client for both (setting up configurations AND to control the pool) and I rarely (if at all) use the mobile app.
3. I only use the mobile app for both (configurations and pool control). I DO NOT use the web-client at all.

Please click the corresponding radio button that most closely matches how you use the web-client and click the "Cast Vote" button.

If you care to leave additional comments regarding this poll or suggestions with regards to a web-client overhaul, that would be great. I will be happy to compile them and pass them along, together with the poll results, to the applicable Pentair Senior Product Manager.

Thanks in advance for your participation.
r.

Note: This pool poll will close 53 days from the date of this posting (October 31, 2023).

Hi for those in Los Angeles area (or similar climate where pool is left open year round), when does your SWG stop producing chlorine? I am likely going to get one, but trying to figure out if now is a good time or wait until April/May.

After my slam at the end of July and first part of August I have been following TFP procedures for daily, weekly and monthly readings.

Daily my PH is always reading 8 and I am having to add 9.5-10 ounces of MA daily. My pool has a spa that has a spillover that runs the whole time the pump runs (9 hours a day to keep my FC where it needs to be) and I am guessing this is what is causing the PH to be so high every day. There is no way for me to turn this off either. I guess I am here just seeing if this is going to my my normal every day of adding MA? Today I actually just added MA before doing my readings and it was 7.6 like I want.

Thoughts, comments and suggestions are welcome.

Today’s readings
FC - 9
CC - .5
PH - 7.6 after adding MA earlier
TA - 70
CH - 250
CSI = -0.30

So I stopped using my Apera PH60 tester for pH readings because the readings were crappy compared to my Taylor kit reading. I realized today, it's user error. I had been following the Quick Start/Use laminated card that comes with the unit, but I also noticed that that laminated quick guide doesn't say ANYTHING about proper storage and well, I was not properly storing it . I found out that the probe should be stored damp/wet with the cover/cap fully closed to keep the tip from drying out. I was not doing that and my unit seemed to get less responsive over time, even calibrating it didn't help.

The good news was, I foiund that cleaning the probe in the 3M KCL Storage Solution for a couple of hours, and then recalibrating the probe (7.0, 4.0 and then 10.0) totally fixed all my issues. Not only does it read correctly now with both the Taylor and TF-PRO pH blocks (yes, I have to use both, cause I need to double-check things being color blind) but the PH60 also reads SUPER fast now.

I bought this on Amazon to get me a proper cleaning and calibration and couldn't be happier: Amazon.com

Now I know to store the probe tip with some moisture on it and in its protective cap/cover to keep the tip from drying out. Passing this along for others who might struggle with their Apera PH60 meter.

(I use mine because I'm color blind and color based pH reading tests have been a real struggle for me in the past, though I think I've managed to train my eye properly and have gotten way better).

HTH someone else.

There’s a million posts on this topic and still a variety of opinions. Sorry for starting another one =(
I’m trying to figure out the best salt to buy to convert pool over. I am looking to purchase 400 lbs+ I do see this one posted frequently,
Should I be looking for a pool salt? There’s no clear pick since everyone has their opinions.
I want to go to SCP and see what salt they carry, unless anyone knows.

Hi everyone,

I have a 33k Gal, plaster pool using liquid chlorine.

I just replaced enough pool water to get my CYA to 45. My FC is .6, CC .2, PH 7.6, TA 125, CH 350. The Pool Calculator said to add 2gal and 1cup of 12% chlorine to get my FC to 8. I plan on getting my FC between 6-8, then recheck levels before doing anything else. My question is should I be checking or doing anything else at this time like adjusting the TA, or wait until I get my FC to spec.

I am new to the forum, and glad it is here!