Hello, I’m new to TFP. First post so forgive me if this isn’t the right place.

I have a Hayward, EC 40 DE pool filter. and a one horsepower pump. My pool is above ground and is about 3000 gallons.

Last year I didn’t winterize the pool. We had a lot going on and the pool stayed open and the pump and filter connected all winter. Come summer, the case for the Hayward was cracked so I had to replace it. After doing so and cleaning the fingers and putting new DE. Everything ran fine temporarily.

My issue is as follows:
every time I turn on the filter, it runs appropriately for about 5min and then the pressure coming out of the return dies down significantly. It happens gradually over the 5min. I’ve taken out the fingers multiple times, and hosed them down.
I have soaked them in acid overnight and then put them back in which made the duration that the filter works longer.
Now it’ll work for like 20min before dying down slowly.
I even went as far as taking apart each finger and soaking the finger cases in soap and acid for 3hrs and then putting everything back together. They looked fine, no tears or anything.
Same thing. Over the span of 20-30min, it dies again. I noticed that when I turn it off and pump the handle and then turn it back on it runs for a little longer before dying. When I look at the pressure gauge, it reads about 18-19 at the point that the filter pressure dies.

At this point do I need to replace the finger cases? Or can it be something with the pump? It’s not that complicated of a system but I can’t figure out what it is. I thought for sure after soaking and cleaning the fingers it would work properly.

Any advice is appreciated thanks!

Me again
Didn’t want to hijack someones thread.. so I apologize for one more about white flakes.

2 days into SWG and today I’ve noticed white flakes. I’ve started using pool math few weeks ago and my CSI is always between -0.15 and -0.3
Currently -0.3
I was planning to bring CH to recommended 350 but not sure? Also wondering if these flakes are ‘leftovers’ hmmm

Hello,

I am having some calcium buildup on my salt cell (45 to 60 days between cleaning), much more than I feel I should be having. Previous years I ran a Pentair IC60 and injected 50% acid/50% water via a stenner pump a few feet before the salt cell to keep ph stable with minimal effort. While this seemed to keep the salt cell clean I think it shortened the life of 2 cells to two summers each so I replumbed this last spring to inject AFTER the cell and put in a generic ($600) cheaper salt cell from discount salt pool but I have been having more problems with calcium.

My numbers are the following:
FC 0.35
ph 7.4
TA 79
Calcium 482
Cyanuric 53
Salt 3117
Pool temp 78-86 degrees

CSI is -0.2 per pool math. I should also note that I added an entire 64 oz bottle of Beautec Easycare Cale Preventative a month or two ago.

Any thoughts or ideas why I'm having such trouble.

I have read every article that I can about hybrid pools. The one thing I cannot find information about is how specifically to restore the fiberglass panels. Can they be sandblasted at the same time as the concrete bottom? Do I hand sand them?

I'm beginning to put together a list of things to try this on my own and want to have as much information as possible before moving forward.

Hello!

new-ish pool owner ( came with the house ). the in-ground vinyl pool has a leak, leak/s. it is currently stopped at a level below the drain line. I am guessing it might have come from when I pulled out the umbrella from the pool in the last thunderstorm (blew over). I was able to find one leak and marine-caulk-seal it, but there is a leak somewhere else and my dye/diving skills can't find it.

I am hesitating to keep filling up the pool, concerned it might just be going to the foundation or somewhere else.

I've requested for service, but the earliest they can come is in 5 days. Any tips on how to maintain the pool till then?

i.e. just keep adding chlorine, maintain levels? is the pump ok to not run for that long? ( will i get other issues with the water stuck in the lines? ) should i start pumping from the pool into the skimmer basket or drain line?

thank you!

Newbie here - I'm trying to figure out a schedule for my Pentair SuperFlo VSP. The builder set it to run at 2500rpm 24/7 and he told me I can just leave it there, but I want to understand my numbers and fine-tune it anyway. First step for me is to calculate the flow by measuring pressure and vacuum from the ports on my pump. I bought a couple "standard" gauges but the ports on the pump are so low to the ground that I don't have enough room to screw in the gauges. Can I just connect my gauges to a hose and then connect the hose to the pump ports? Will that still give accurate readings?

I have followed the Hayward troubleshooting tutorial and seeing that between the red and black cable it only showed 10 Volts, I have replaced the diode bridges (it has two). But the problem has not been solved. The 15000uF electrolytic capacitors are a bit bulky on top and seem to charge well. Could someone provide me with the electronic schematic? IThe model is SAS15EU.
Thank you

Hi all - I see that I’m not alone with the hot pool problem (especially here in FL with no rain!!!). My issue is my return eye balls are not threaded. They are the press in bulbous looking things that just push into the return pvc pipe. I think they’re called self aligning? Any thoughts on how I can get a fountain connected? I’ve looked around the web and keep coming up empty.
Thanks!

I have these build ups. If I address them promptly, they are soft and easily brush away. If I wait, they harden and require a stone rubbing. Some are pebble like, others are streaks. All no matter when I address them, they leave the surface smooth and white where the blemish was. They tend to return at the same spot.

My chemistry is within recommended parameters. Which chemistry should I adjust to stop theses formations?

Hello, my name is Francisco and I am from Spain. I have had a pool for 8 years and I have started to have a problem with the salt chlorinator and since I like electronics, I put my hand into it to see if it can be repaired before replacing it with new elements. I found you on Google.

I need to replace an astral pool P300 and I'm spoilt for choice and don't really know what I'm looking for. Can redo the pipework if need.

The total head is less than a meter and the pool is only 40KL so I guess I don't need a big one.

Not sure whether to go for AC or DC also - I gather AC is more reliable and DC more quiet? I'd be leaning towards AC then, unless DC is so much more efficient that it makes up for a shorter life.

Hi everyone,
Both my heat pump (TTI Fab Stratos 80) and my chlorinator (Hayward Aquatrol) show low-flow errors and stop working almost every day. I’ve tried to work around this by keeping the pump at a high speed. It primes at 3450 rpm (the maximum) and then reduces automatically to 1600. I changed it so now it never goes below 3000 but still I will look outside and it seems slow, and when I check, sure enough there is a low flow error on all the equipment. Water is crystal clear but it’s cooling off because the heat pump is so temperamental and sensitive to flow. Anyone experience something like this?
Thanks

I was about to order a CircuPool RJ 45 for our 25k gal pool and noticed that I could get an RJ60 for $10 more today. Would that work even better or should I just stay with the 45? Thanks.

I always understood the main issue was CYA build up over time and the only way to reduce CYA was to drain water and replace it.

For the last 10 years or so our pool has had a CYA of about 40 - 60 (best guess as the test is not really easy to read). We did liquid chlorine in the summer (swim season) and water was perfect and no algae blooms. In the winter we use tabs as solar is off and pool temp low. Always a little surprised each spring that the CYA wasn't higher after using tabs - but everything good.

This year we have had very high liquid chlorine usage (which is getting very expensive with the current cost of chlorine) and testing CYA it seems maybe 10 - 20 (again the I find the test very hard to read to get an accurate result).

Could we really have lost CYA like this? Pool is never drained (on a well and it would be prohibitive to try to refill) just topped up during the summer to replace evaporative loss (but the CYA should stay in pool - correct?)

Are there any more accurate CYA tests than the black dot test? A little reluctant to add CYA until I know it is really low as it will really be hard to lower it if it gets high.

Pool still looks great - but if CYA is low I guess even low levels of chlorine would be working....

Hello,

First post here. I need to respond to the contractor ASAP.

Current stairs are done. Been quoted for plastic stairs or fiberglass stairs. Plastic is cheaper. I don't know what to choose and can't find any information on internet regarding these two.

Here are the models :

ST6019B : Plastic
STP6CDP : Fiberglass

Thank you so much for help.

Hi,
Pool owner of several years, never really had an algae problem. This past week I've started seeing small algae spots pop up over night. I brush them off, run the filter. Even on areas of the liner that don't have visible spots I see some stuff (likely algae) coming off in a cloud.

My levels as of 5 minutes ago:
FC: 4.5
CYA: 45
PH: 7.6

Earlier in the week I hosed down my filter element (quad cartridge) and everything inside. This is part of my twice-a-summer maintanance. The cartridges weren't too bad.
I've vacc'd the pool once this week (going to drop the bot in this morning).
I have friends coming over later and I assume there isn't an issue with swimming.

I consider myself a relative expert when it comes to maintenance, pool knowledge, chemistry balance etc. Friends and family come to me for advice. I've sent them here to this page as well as recommended the taylor test kit. However, considering the chem levels noted above, pool is not green and is clear, considering how I am meticulous with the pool and check it every day as part of my morning routine... Kind of baffled how Im seeing algae spots. I thought it was high CYA without the proper high level of FC, but thats not the case (4.5/45 noted above). I thought it was my filters clogged of gunk, organics, algae but thats not the case (they werent bad and I hosed them down last Saturday).

I understand the recommended regime to get algae out is SLAM and process it out. But if the levels are fine to begin with, why is it happening in the first place?
Any thoughts?

For the past several weeks my Taylor Borate strips do not match the colors on the container. My color is yellow, so I was figuring I am above the 100 threshold on the back of the container. I read that maybey test strips are bad?

Any help on this subject would be great.

Owned a pool at my prior home and used the Pool Math app to manage my levels. As I recall, the recommended FC level was 1 - 3 ppm. Fast forward a couple of years, we moved and built another pool. I loaded up the app again, but this time it is calling for 3 - 9 ppm for FC.

Am I mistaken or did the recommended FC level change?

New to pools and looking to figure out what test kit I should buy. Pool will be a stonescape salt water pool.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I live in Arizona and we have a 13,000 gal. pool that has been renovated in the past 6 mos. I had no experience in pool care, we had a pool service but was not satisfied with the service. I relied on the basic test strip and Leslie's pool's test and advice and between the two methods I found the test results were not accurate. Recently I purchased the Taylor K-2005 kit, but I from what I'm reading I should have purchased an upgraded kit.

Hello,
A question regarding the correction factor to be applied at Total Alkalinity measurement in order to get Carbonate Alkalinity : does this correction factor applies whatever the measurement type for TA ?
Said otherwise, do we get (approximately) the same results for TA whether we use a photometer, test strips, drops, etc.. ?

Hi experts.

I was using my spa, heater, and air blower and the breaker on my pool pump tripped. The breaker is a 40M Siemens breaker.

The breaker seems to also feed the pentair intellicenter i8psc with the ic40 salt cell, and the screen was out when it tripped.

The equipment that was on when the breaker tripped was a mastertemp400, intellflo3 vsf (set to 3400 rpm) and a silencer air blower (model 1-632042) 2hp, 240v 4.6amp is what's written on the sticker.

Could my breaker be overloading because there is to much on this breaker. The pool is barely 2 months old and it hasn't tripped (to my knowledge) when the equipment was running before.

I am going to try to turn on each equipment independently to rule out a short, but wanted to ask you all to see what yall think of this setup.

Hey all, I noticed my waterfall wasn’t working well at low flowrates and the mortar is eroded from the edges of the waterfall. Am I ok to just use premixed grout that is sand colored from the tile aisle at Home Depot, or should I use a mortar ?

This seems simple enough, any recommendations?

Photos attached

Bought a S200 in 2018 and have been, generally, less than impressed by it. I've had to replace numerous parts - drive gear, wheel, wheel gear, inside wheel bushing, and belts. And it probably needs a new cord and filter set too.

When I first got it I was impressed at how much fine sediment it picked up. But also from the get-go the thing never really crawled up my walls and cleaned either.

Of course, the thing is 5 yrs old and maybe what I've experienced is expected as wear and tear parts. Prior to getting the S200 I had a Baracuda G3 and it did fine - but I tossed it as soon as the S200 came. While the S200 was waiting for parts I ended back up with a simple Baracuda knock-off that does fine.

For my first robot I expected more - or at least to do better than a $90 G3 knock-off.

Can I just upgrade the interface or do I need to buy a new pump? When the power goes out I have to completely redo all the settings. I'm getting tired of it and would like one that has a memory. What is the best way to accomplish my goal? TIA

Login to view embedded media I noticed this morning the pump was running but water wasn't flowing.

The waterline is high enough for the intake

I cleared the baskets in the skimmer box and in the pump

I tried manually priming by blocking the intake, opening the lid and filling up with water and closing the lid tight and unblocking the intake.

The pump immediately started losing prime again, and it sounds like the air is coming in from the motor end of the pump itself or something.

There is water underneath the pump but I'm not sure if it's leaking or just water that splashed when I was troubleshooting/priming.

One thing I did notice was salt on the outside of the motor that you can see in the video, and some on the ground where I knocked it off.

In the video you can hear the glugging as the pump loses prime, and the gurgling sound that I thought might be air coming in on the right hand side.

All the lights are green. Is it possible it is not generating chlorine? Thanks.

I have a 12-year-old LG electric dryer. A couple of weeks ago I noticed the breaker was tripped. I reset it and went along with my business. Then my wife pointed out it had done it again, and it happened to me as well. Otherwise, this thing is working like new still.

I had planned on testing the continuity and resistance on the heating element as soon as I had a day with free time. Today, while doing a quick load of clothes for a weekend to trip to CA I noticed the breaker had tripped again, but this time it occurred to me that it had tripped when not in use. it has since done it a couple of times. I check it as soon as it is done with its cycle and there is power still. then come back later to a tripped breaker.

Any thoughts here? It isn't tripping while the unit is in use. I am wondering if it is possibly the breaker that has gone bad. New house (1 year this month). Thoughts, suggestions?

Hi

I had my leisure pool fiberglass put in 2021. The model is ultimate 35


I noticed two issues this year:

1. Hairline crack at the hot tub ledge
2. Random irregular discolouration in deep water throughout the pool. It is not the water line fade because these random discolouration are in deep end . They are at least 3 discolouration I’ve discovered. The shape of these discolouration is irregular and has no well defined shape unlike water line fade.


My water is in the right ph, aklinity , and chrome level. I have SWG.

I’ve filed a warranty claim on the crack but is the discolouration normal?

New pool owner needing help. 13,000 gallon gunnite saltwater pool, filled with city water. I'm right at a year of pool ownership and have always had crystal clear water. Parameters are typically spot on but anytime there's been a minor issue, it was low chlorine or high PH and I would remedy that. Not sure if this was the cause, but I shocked the pool a couple months back and within a day or two I noticed some brown streaky stains. I tried to rub some Vitamin C on a stain on the swim deck, to no avail (rubbed a couple tablets pinched between fingers on stain till tablet was gone). Would that have been enough time? I've also tried rubbing a chlorine tablet on it... That did nothing at all. At worst, PH was arguably a little high (8.0) when I shocked it. Any advice? Thank you in advance!