Hi folks, I use Suncoast Gold liquid chlorine to sanitize my pool and I use an inexpensive Kerosene siphon pump to transfer the LC from the 2.5 gallon jug into a measuring cup which I use to pour into my pool each night. This works fine, but is a little tedious to deal with the pump every night. Unfortunately, I can't pour straight from the 2.5 gallon jug without making a mess.

My simple idea is when I bring the 2.5 gallon jug home, transfer it into three separate 1 gallon jugs using my pump, with the idea being that I can pour straight from the 1 gallon jugs into my measuring cup or pool without having to mess with the pump. So the idea is I only have one pumping session per 2.5 gallon jug, instead of one every night. I'm talking about using either regular 1 gallon Clorox bottles or 1 gallon bottles of LC from HD/Lowes (e.g. Pool Essentials or HDX liquid chlorine bottles). Is there any problem with this approach?

The only thing I wasn't sure about was venting. The 2.5 gallons jugs say the cap is vented. I'm not sure if the regular 1 gallon jugs are or not, or if it matters? I'm storing the LC in one of those outdoor plastic containers under my deck. So it's not exposed to light, but it is exposed to 100 degree temps.

Moved from HERE

@nicknash, was there a fix for this? Or did you leave it as is. We are going through the same issues with our pool install. I don't really know where to start or just leave it and hope for the best. We first noticed it was not level when we filled it with water last year. Its a new install.

Pictures for reference. First photos are when we first opened it this year. Second photos are from mid season this year.

Hi there,

I have an AGP that I currently use with two pump/filters in a fairly basic layout.

• The larger of my two pumps pulls from a Hayward through-wall skimmer and dumps directly back into the stock return
• The medium sized pump pulls from the 1.25" "B" outlets that merge together (like a lot of AGP's) into a 1.5" tee connection. That runs to my BBQ heater and then just dumps via a 1.25" pvc pipe directly back into the pool, over the side

Diagrams are side view.


The above setup works fine, but there are times where I really want to pull from the "OUT" ports into the larger pump that has a bigger/better filter and just run it that way for a while. Currently to achieve that I have to disconnect the skimmer from the large filter and disconnect the OUT pipes from the medium pump and then run the OUT pipes into the larger pump, leaving the skimmer hose kinda awkwardly draped over the skimmer. If it fell, the pool would start to siphon, so not ideal.

What I'd like to do is have a valve setup that would allow me to choose where the large pump pulls from and also allow my current setup to continue. So I'd be able to run the large pump/skimmer and heater at the same time OR I could turn off the heater and just run the large pump from the OUT ports to the main return so I could clean more of the water that's down deeper instead of pulling from the skimmer.

Sort of like this:


If my thinking is correct, I need 2x 3 way valves that would allow me to A) send the OUT water either to the Medium pump or to a second valve and B) the second valve would allow me to choose between pulling from the first valve or the skimmer and send either one back to the return.

I think I'd use a couple of something like this? If the three visible outlets on that valve were labeled A (left side), B (center), C (right side) do they work like A-->B or C-->B pulling from either of the two "side" inputs and always pushing out the center one? If so that makes sense to me but I admit I don't know how these 3 way valves work.

Then I guess I'd need 6x this

And 6x this

With some 1'5" PVC between the valve and the slip fit with female NPT adapters that would then screw into the intex adapters, allowing me to connect all my 1.5" intex stuff.

Sanity check very much appreciated!

I cleaned my SWG this weekend with muriatic acid, as the automatic reminder popped up last week. I also replaced all four cartridge filters from my filter (Pentair CCP420). It's the first time I've done it myself (after ditching my pool service earlier this year), but followed all the instructions and had no issues (Salt Cell = Hayward TC-500 and did not seem particularly scaley). Within a couple of days, I noticed large white flakes around the bubblers in the pool and settling on the bottom of the spa. I assume it's excess calcium, but it seems odd to run into that problem after cleaning the cell. Calcium Hardness levels are still reading in an acceptable level according to the TFP app (went from 350ppm to 400ppm after cleaning, but TFP says 350-650 is ideal).

Should I just sweep up the flakes and see if they return, or is there something else I should do to ensure nothing is amiss? Thanks!

After opening our pool recently the no flow light went on. I replaced the flow switch and the light went off so I thought I was all set. However, although the system is generating, I noticed my instant salinity number drops slowly throughout the day so I think my cell is failing. Today I noticed both the cell plug and the connector on the board look burnt. I took off the cover and the board seems fine. I checked the thermistor (which I replaced a few years ago) and that looks ok to me too.
Do I need to replace both the salt cell and the board (or that white connector)? I'm worried if I replace those parts they may both burn out again so I'm also thinking maybe it's time to get a whole new SWG system. This is our original from 2006 and every few years something goes wrong (I've replaced the thermistor, three flow switches and at least three salt cells). Any advice would be greatly appreciated!! Ann

I've attached pics below.

Here are the current display readings:

3000
72
26.2
5.35
73p
-2600
AL-0
r1.40

Hi -

My Pentair iS4 Spa Side Remote has gone bad and I need to replace it. How important is it that the conduit that houses the spa side remote cable be free from cracks?

For context, the conduit that houses my spa side remote cable between the spa and the control system runs under a 10' wood deck and then underground for another ~50'. The deck is not covered and so it is exposed to rain, etc. When attempting to replace the remote, I noticed that the conduit is cracked and unstable (it moves when I jiggle the conduit from the opening at the edge of the spa) very near to where it exits the side of the spa and under the first few feet of wood deck. Unfortunately, accessing the conduit to repair it would require removing most of the deck because the deck was installed with invisible fasteners and I'm not able to remove just the few boards closest to the spa.

I'm wondering what the risks are of just leaving the conduit "as is", assuming I can successfully pull the cable for the replacement remote through it. Are there any safety concerns?

Thanks for any advice you can share.

30,500 L (8000 gallon) fibreglass pool, currently using liquid chlorine. This is the first year I have had this pool, and I definitely made a mistake by not installing a SWG during installation. Oh well.

Next season I’m going to install a SWG, but I want make sure that I’m getting the right unit. I currently have a Pentair Variable Speed pump running at low RPM 24 hours a day, with a bump in speed for a few hours. I’m looking at either the Pentair IC-20 or IC-40.

If I choose the IC-20, I would need to run the unit at 30% to produce about 3 ppm chlorine. Right now my chlorine demand is around 3.5 per day. Is there any benefit to choosing the IC-40 to increase the life of the cell? With the IC-40 I lose the ability to make fine adjustments to chlorine output since the unit is only adjustable at 2-4-6-8-10-20-40-60-80-100 percent outputs. According to the Pool Math app, each 10% output level would be about 2 ppm FC on the IC-40. With the bigger unit I might have to keep switching outputs to maintain constant FC.

Okay, I've had this pool for a couple weeks now. The previous owner used Leslie's for advice, chlorinated with Trichlor in a feeder on the equipment pad and a floater in the spa. His advice was, "If you come home and anything looks off, shock it." I found TFP before going blindly into Leslie's (and I still haven't been in there.) Received my TF-100 on Monday 7/31. Until then, I just dumped in a 121 oz jug of 7.5% grocery store bleach every other day.

That first day I only tested CYA (30-40) and FC (near zero). I recall pH being high, too, but I had just gotten the PoolMath app and didn't log those numbers. I decided it would hurt nothing to throw in some more of the Trichlor pucks the PO had left behind, since it should improve all three of those values, and last, oh I don't know, a week?

Kept testing daily with the OTO test, then a few days ago the FC showed up 0. Oh snap, the Trichlor got used up. Added another jug of 7.5% bleach.

8/6 I did a new battery of tests.
FC: 4.5
CC: 0.5
pH: 7.6
TA: 120
CH: 175
CYA: 50
PO left some Leslie's Hardness Plus behind, so I broadcast 4 scoops around the surface to work on the CH. I left the TA alone for now.

8/7
FC: 0 (Snap!)
Added another jug of bleach.
30 minutes later...
FC: 6.5
pH: 8.0
CH: 225
Broadcast 3 more scoops CaCl2

8/8
FC: 0 (Snap!)
pH: 8.0
Okay, WTH, better to put another half jug of bleach and a couple more Trichlor pucks in while I figure this out.

Clearly, I'm losing FC too fast, and that calls for an overnight chlorine test, right? (I'll have to wait until pucks are used up.)
I've seen talk of OCLT showing FC loss, therefore it must be algae, and a SLAM is called for.
My question here is could the FC demand also be from other organics, such as the metric butt ton of pine needles and crape myrtle detritus I'm pulling out of my skimmer baskets every day? If I try to SLAM, am I never going to reach an OCLT loss of 0, because I still have so much tree litter?

Other items:
I need to get more economical about buying liquid chlorine, and Patriot Cleaning Supplies sells 12.5% in bulk not too far away, but how unwieldy are large containers for this? It's easy to dose out a jug or half a jug of store-bought bleach, but how do people do it with a 5-gal jug? Maybe pour into a plastic 1-gal lemonade pitcher? Mark it up like a graduated cylinder?

The water has been clear this whole time, but somewhere early in this process I found myself brushing green stuff out of the tile grout all the way around the pool, though it hasn't come back yet. That was maybe around the time @Newdude cautioned me that where FC is concerned "minimum" should be translated as "Swampville."

Our house is on a water softener, so I'm going to guess the automatic filler is using softened water, thus the low CH. Seems pretty silly that you'd pay to soften water, then pay to harden it back up, but I guess it is what it is.

I haven't backwashed the DE filter since I've had it. The PO said the pressure reads 18 when it's clean, and he backwashes when it gets up to around 22 or 23. It's been sitting at 20 for a while now and I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and backwash it based on it having been at least a few weeks. (But then the bag of DE is behind a bunch of Crud in the garage we haven't unpacked yet, so I'm not really itching to do it.)

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Hi all; been a long time since I've posted here, and several years since my original experiementation with ahh-some and biofilms that started way back in 2013. As most know, the makers of Ahh-some have produced another interesting product by the name of Aqua Clarity, which I'm sure needs no introduction here, as it is a quat-based maintenance product. Anyway, James sent me some to test and I thought I would share results here. As you might imagine, my experiment took a turn that I wasn't expecting, so I have only partial results. Essentially what I did was:

1. start with new water after a purge, and shock. measure sanitizer decay rate before adding any Aqua Clarity. This is the "New Water" portion of the graph below.
2. start using Aqua Clarity per label directions. over the next few months I let the water go bad a couple of times on purpose, each time slamming to recover. For the first slam, I had kids jumping in and out, tracking grass clippings and putting quite a load on things. I didn't rinse off my filters, prefering to see how Aqua Clarity and Sanitizer would handle things. After the kids were finished using the spa, I let sanitizer go to zero for several days (until things got really bad and cloudy) and then I slammed for 48 hours. the water recovered well. After that experiement, a few weeks went by. I stopped using AC for three weeks, then let sanitizer go to zero for two weeks, which caused bad water again, of course. I slammed for 48 hours again but this time I measured decay to compare with new water. This is the "old water with aqua clarity" portion of the graph.

The graph shows new water decay rate, which exhibits an asymtotic behavior (rapid decay at high levels), compared with "old water" decay rate, showing a more linear ( and longer) decay.

both decay tests were performed during hot weather, no load, spa covered. the Y-axis is in DPD drops, by the way, using the taylor test kit and the small (10mL) sample. This introduces some measurement error, explaining the irregularities in the graph lines, but gives "good enough" information.

I probably left out some other details but feel free to ask questions!

Does anyone know if these are the same reagents?

TF Test Kits R-0009
Taylor R-0009

Thanks everyone.

Hey guys , my old pool light started leaking so I decided to replace it with a led light. My grandkids came over for a swim and to see the new colored lights. All of them were getting shocked. Tested the water with a voltmeter and it had 1.5 v. Unhooked the light and voltage back to zero. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
David

I've been receiving several PMs lately from frustrated IntelliCenter users who want to revert back to Firmware Version 1.064.
This is mainly due to unexplained bugs they are experiencing with FW V2.017 and which did not occur when using FW V1.064.

I posted the instructions back in January on the following thread...

However, It's not always quick and easy to find I guess, so here is a dedicated thread for this topic.

INSTRUCTIONS TO REVERT BACK TO FW V1.064

1. Press RESET on the Outdoor Control Panel.
2. Once the OCP reboots, press the gears icon in the lower right-hand corner of the screen.



3. In the Options Window, select the Switch Firmware Version.



4. Find Firmware v1.064 and select it.



5. Press the check-mark.
5. (b) Tap the "Back" Arrow.
6. The OCP should then revert back to v1.064.

I hope this is helpful for those experiencing issues with v2.017.
r.

Recently found out about Ah-some and related piping cleaners for spas and want to do a thorough cleaning. Unfortunately I drained most of my hot tub and now re-filled it after finding out and purchasing the product.

So my question is, now that I have fresh water in the tub and plan to use the ah-some should I shock the water, add my bromine chemicals, balance the water, etc before adding the ah-some?

Thanks in advance

Since new plaster in May I have added 15 lbs of stabilizer to my 13k pool The last 8 being Clorox brand Test before the last 4 lbs was in the 10-20 range according to my eyesight Added last 4 lbs last week and it got up to around 50 The heat is brutal and I increased my pump time from 6 hours to 8 and increased my IC60 from 40% to 60% to keep up with the FC demand Pool has zero shade and gets full sun all day. Have lived in this house for 8 years now and have never seen my stabilizer disappear like this summer Shut my pool down this last weekend (2 days) and did a leak test Setup 3 buckets for control Pool and buckets all went down the same amount (about 1 inch) so no apparent leak causing my stabilizer issues. Acid demand is definitely higher this summer since I am having to add more like .75 to 1 gallon per week. Until this summer it has always been around .5 gallon per week to keep my pH in range. Last thing is 4 extra bags of salt this summer which is more than I have ever added

So is it a condition with new plaster? Heat related? Just going crazy trying to figure out why I can't get it stable like it always has been.

Any thoughts or ideas would be helpful

First of all I want to thank everyone for the replies to my introduction.

I have recently come to stay with my mother-in-law while I transition to a move myself however, her pool has not been up and running in a couple of years she says that she needs a new system however, nothing has been looked at and of course my father-in-law before he became to ill he did all the pool maintenance and repair if it needed it however, I did live her with them for approximately 1.5 years before I purchased my own home close by. Now my father -in-law passed a few years back and the pool has not been up and running sense before he became to ill. My mother/in-law and her daughter drained it and cleaned it as he has taught us all however, when she tried to turn on the system she said it hummed at first then after shutting it off and back on it did not make a sound. And they haven’t bothered with it again due to financial problems. So now that I have been here I am working on it from what he has taught me and trying to get it up and running until we can figure out if it is the actual new system she needs or something we can fix. So I drain the pool again washed the liner and refilled it and thank god for finding this site because as I was read some of the threads I learned that I could circulate the pool using the sump pump I was using to drain it but to feed the hose from the pump back into the pool and then I shocked it and put a clorine tablet into a home made floater and that is where I am at right now. I will attached some before and after photos to see the process so but now I am not sure where to go. I do have a couple of extra pumps from a business I had and I would when she says new system is that the control panels or a new pump.

At this point how do I tell which was to go sense I have temporary circulation? The current system is listed below:

•15k gallon salt water inground with the sprinkler that goes into the pool & pool liner
•AquaStar II to control the solar pool & spa. She states that it has never controlled the spa though.
• Also they have the Hayward Aqua Rite
Salt Chlorine Generator
• PENTAIR Superflo high performance pump 1.5 HP

Thank you in advance for the help.

Jimrahbe said:

kw,

The two main reasons to run your pump are:

1. To generate the chlorine that your pool needs if you have a tab feeder or SWCG
2. To skim the pool the way you like.

I run my pump 24/7, at 1200 RPM most of the time, for less than $20 bucks a month. Newer IntelliFlo pumps are even more energy efficient.

I like generating a little chlorine all the time and skimming all the time. Not something that is required, just something I like to do.

Your tab feeder may or may not work well at low RPMs, but you will need to experiment with your pool set up and see how it works.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Click to expand...

Jim, I found your response here. Great advice. I've run into too many algae issues over the past few years and I'm going to try something new. I'm just finishing up a SLAM and I'm trying your philosophy.

When my chlorine level was appropriate, I was running my pump at 2850 for 2.5 hrs and 1800 for 8 hours. Now, I've set it to 2850 for 2.5 hours and 1200 for 21.5 hrs.

1) Do you think my current settings sound right?
2) Could I go lower than 1200 (so long as the flow activates the salt cell)?
3) Do you think I need a full 2.5 hours to run my vacuum?
4) My Intellichlor IC40 was set at 60% for the 10.5 hour cycle. For a 24 hour cycle, do you think 20% will work?
5) Any other tips?

Thanks!

Has anyone had any luck wiring their Superflo VST (mfgt post 2020) via the RS-485 automation cable to the IntelliConnect. I tried following the instructions for the Superflo digital inputs - however it didn't work. Should i try a different automation panel? Any help on the wiring is appreciated!

PS. Looking to wire (2) Superflo's to an automation system

Cheers,
Steve

Buying a home with a vinyl pool, have never owned any kind of pool before. Looking forward to learning the maintenance basics

Moved from here.
Just want to chime in and thank Texas Splash. I've had the same oxidation issue for years but ignored it. The pool developed a crack, so I drained and fixed it. I was curious about the oxidation so I bought a cheap HF polisher and some 3M Heavy gelcoat cutting compound. I tested it yesterday and the results are outstanding. I didn't take many pictures because it was super-hot, but hopefully I can complete the entire pool. Picture is attached, you can see the difference polishing and removing the oxidation makes. FYI I've never polished anyting before.

Gentleman: I have a resurfacing question, I have a 12-15 year old swimming pool in south Florida. It is approx 25 x 50 feet and currently has a diamond brite type of surface. Over the years it has discolored and my wife wants to have it re-surfaced. She has had a few vendors over. Some say remove existing coating and others say to coat over the existing coat. It does have inlaid tiles on the stairs and a very nice tile around the perimeter that I would like to keep if possible. I am not eager to loose depth unless minimal. How do I reconsile the different advice with these seperate vendors? Specifically does old diamond brite need removal or is it fine to acid wash and apply new coat on old?

Hi -

We completed our pool build a little over a month ago. Our builder had a company come handle the start up and pool school. During pool school I asked the tech how I can turn the spillway on and off. He said, the way the pool is currently plumbed that's not an option, currently the system pulls water from the pool and spa every time the pump is on. He also said if it was an option he wouldn't recommend it since the spa water would sit all day without turning over. With my previous pool I was able to turn the spillway on/ off with the push of a button and loved it.

I'm trying to keep the PH in check, but with the bubblers and spillway currently on at all times the PH spikes quickly. I can manually turn the bubblers off if I want, and I've been able to turn the pump speed down low enough (1250 rpms) during the day to keep the spillway from flowing, but it still has a steady drip. I've also setup a schedule to run the spa twice per day for 2 hours in order to turn over the water.

Questions - Is there a way for me to turn the spillway on/ off? If so, how? Or should I leave it alone?

Pics below of my current setup.

Thx

Hello everyone,

I currently have a Maytronics Dolphin s300i but due to money being less readily available for me and my family then it was when i purchased the s300i I have to downsize. I live in Chile so there are less options.
I was wondering what my fellow pool owners say.
I have 2 options that I am circling at the moment. One of them a 3-motor Raptor Pro with Bluetooth but filter only down to 200 microns and the other a Saphir, with 2 motors same suction rate but with filtration down to 100 microns.
My Dolphin has "ultra-fine", they don't quantify the particle size. What are your thoughts?
Here are the links to the 2 models (in Chile) Saphir, Raptor Pro,
It seems Bestway sold or sells them in the US. Any thoughts? Or even better, does anyone have experience with Wybotics, they sell under Badu in South Africa and I saw them sold in Australia aswell.

Thank you!

PS: I know I should stick with Maytronics, but the budget is really tight and I had tons of issues with my Dolphin and have changed, The Motor, the Control Unit, The Filter and the only thing that was amazing here in Chile was the Customer Service from the place I purchased it.

I have been reading a lot on the forum, and started using PoolMath a few days ago. Our pool is approximately 22K gallons with a hot tub that flows over a short stone waterfall into the pool. The pool was completed mid-June 2023. It has been very hot in Houston since June. Our pool is full sun most of the day, then partially shaded by the house for a few hours in the evening. Lately the water temperature has been about 92F during the day, and 90ish or a little below at night.

I bought a Taylor K-2006 test kit when the pool was filling. I enjoy doing the testing. I just added a PH60 meter as I couldn't always tell the pH color, and want to make sure I have the correct pH. My test results tonight were: FC 3.5, TC 3.5, pH 7.55, TA 110, CYA 70, and CH 210. The water has been crystal clear since launch date, but we also have only had a tiny bit of rain since June. My CSI is +.04 as per pool math with the current 90F water temperature.

The builder said to hold off on adding calcium as long as possible, so I have only added several packages of Cal-hypo shock over the month, and the calcium hardness has been between 190 and now 210. I did drain about 1/3 of the pool, while filling from the other end, to get the CYA down from 95. I turned the chlorinator off, after emptying it, and add 12.5% bleach each night. My FC only drops about 2 ppm between tests each evening. That is how much it drops during the next day. I couldn't see any drop overnight. Tonight, after reading more on TFP, I upped my 40 oz of nightly bleach up to 80 oz, to get the FC up to 7 or so.

I had the hardest time trying to figure out the TA or adjusted alkalinity to use in the various LSI or index calculators. I am glad I found PoolMath, as that is easy to understand. The biggest issue I had was a lot of things I read said you must use carbonate alkalinity in the LSI equation. That didn't make sense to me as you would adjust the TA with the CYA to get it, but according to the LSI formula, you subtract out the CYA factor. Seemed like double-dipping. I made progress when I read about that on Orenda's site, and then found PoolMath, and it is clicking and making sense.

I was having to add about 325 oz of MA to keep the pH down around the first week, but now add about 150 oz a week, and have a couple of weeks it was only about 120 oz. I am figuring since the pool is new, this will be the case. What I wonder is whether the aeration from the water flowing out of the hot tub into the pool over the stone waterfall is pushing the pH higher faster than "normal". The builder said we needed to run it that way, at least for a while, but I am expecting that is normal operation so the water circulates in the hot tub.

Sorry about the long post. I love the site, PoolMath, and appreciate any and all help I can get. The good thing, so far, is that the water is still super clear so I feel like I have accomplished something.

I'm the facilities superintendent for 2 dog boarding/ dog daycare facilities in Central North Carolina. I have an extensive background in both construction and animals, and I spent 5 years as the head lifeguard for an indoor/ outdoor poll at a YMCA. But boy did I underestimate how much care a pool in constant use by dogs would be (and I did not come in thinking it would be easy). I've already used s few threads from this community to help me, so I decided to become a more active member. I look forward to receiving help and I hope the issues I encounter can lead me to helping others on here as well!

Here we go. Hello please help me, I am looking for any recommendations on my Re-pipe and filter upgrade. I've never done this but I'm really mechanically inclined, I work on all my own stuff, have lots of tools and eager to learn. Been doing hours of research.

Background Info: Skip if you want.
TF-Pro Test kit. Love it! Live in Southern California, Water Temp 84F, 20k Pebble, 2in. Piping, Non-salt, year built 2005, 700 gal spa with 2.5in. suction line, MasterTemp 250 NA Heater #460723 Year 2014, Pentair Intelliflo 2 VST #350305 3HP Year 2016, 2200rpm 8am-4pm, 75% vacuum suction, 2200rpm 9-10pm, old Pentair Purex 315cu. ft. cartridge filter (Replacing), Jandy valves, Poolvergnuegen 2 wheel cleaner (new tires and steering cam from 4 wheel model), Zodiac Cyclone leaf catcher with skimmer sock inside.

I want to install : Have 2 inch Piping
1. Pentair 520 cartridge filter
1a. Filter drain valve instead of 1.5in plug
2. Heater Bypass circuit worth it? (Jandy 3 way valve 4717 & Check valve 7305) or 3 valves?
3. Possibly a Bonded Anode? Pool Tool?
4. Flowmeter, FlowVis? Blue-White?
5. Waterway WYE #672-8000 ABS Plastic?
Or Lasco PVC 475-020
6. Long Sweep 90's everywhere?
7. Unions for future ideas or repairs?
8. Reduce Head Loss, Eliminate street 90's and hard 90's?
9. Glue/Cement recommended. Weld-On 746?
10. Almond paint brand? (Fusion?) , plastic adhesion promoter?
11. Miter/Chop saw for perfect cuts. Blade?
12. Dremal tool for chamfering and reaming pipes?
13. Reciprocating saw blade type? For 18 year old pipes?
14. Alternative MasterTemp 250 year 2014 heater Half Union slip pieces? Will Waterway 413-5110 sweep 90 union fit the heater?
15. Re-use cleaned out unions, saw blade and heat gun? Reamer?

I know it's a lot but I want to do it right and as efficient as possible. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Don't be afraid to tell me I'm doing something wrong. I want it right!

Thank you,
Chris
You can private message me if you'd rather call me.

Hi all, I'm having this same problem. I thought my 2 speed pump went bad since it wouldn't turn on at all (only a hum). Replaced both capacitors and it still didn't work, so I bought another pump. I just installed it and now it kicks on low, but when I change it to high, the low speed jets stay on, but then I just hear a hum. Any ideas? It's a Sundance Optima 850 if that helps.

I think my pump capacitor is going bad. The pump is running but it is making a loud humming noise that it didn’t make before I have purchased new capacitor but it wont be here until Saturday. Is it ok to run the pump in the mean time? If not what do I do to keep things clean and circulating in the meantime?

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I updated by home made chart based on this sites recommended levels and I want to share it with others as it helped me a ton when I arrived here with a pool problem.

Have a Pro Logic system: accidentally added too much salt. Drained some water out and is at good level now after having water tested at pool store.

Problem is Pro Logic still shows 0000 and blinking “check system.” Have gone to menu into Diagnostic to get new salt level reading but also stating 0000 there too.

Lookimg for help and information, I saw that the pump should be turned off when actually adding salt. Unfortunately the pump was running.

Do I need to clean the salt cell? Need help to figure out why I am not getting any salt reading whatsoever now….help!

I discovered a crack in the 1 1/4” outlet hose. It was letting air into the line so I had to turn off the pump.

Our local stores are out of this, and to order online is at least 2 days. I’m at the end of a SLAM so I hate to have my pump off so long.

Any ideas on where I can get a hose that will work? Or even to plug half of the t-valve?

Picture of hose attached