Hi forum, so I recently switched my wireless router to an Eero 5 Pro mesh system. I hadn’t noticed issues recently before the switch, but after switching I cannot get my IAquaLink 2.0 to connect to the web. I have no issues with it connecting to the mesh WiFi...it shows up on my network with full wifi signal strength. However, I cannot achieve the green light at my antenna box out by my pool equipment....I just get the yellow light. Google and Reddit searches so far are only turning up problems that users had actually connecting to the wifi network which isn’t my issue. I just can’t get a web connection and therefore the status is red in my IAquaLink app and I can’t remote control my pool equipment. Has anyone else encountered this problem and have advice on how to get this fixed?

I have Easytouch system, and have 3 microbrite lights connected under 1 relay to aux1.

I am able to turn on and off the lights by pushing the aux1 button on Easytouch panel.
However, when I go to Lights section, Turning the lights on and off feature is not working. The modes and as well as colors are not working as well.

I went to Circuit Functions and changed Aux1 to be Inellicolor, Freeze no, but it did not solve the issue.

How can I make the color modes and colors work?

Thanks

Testing pH
FC is 6.5

Immediate result.
I would say 7.6.



Within 10 seconds it’s this.
I’d say well over 8.0.


What’s my pH?

Re; ERR OOOF

My poolman and his technician came out, fiddled with the timer box and the GFI plugs that are out there, opened the top section of the pump (under the err display), which of course you can’t get past — solid metal plate with heavy screws — and they examined the breaker. Their conclusion: “You need a new pump”. Why should I not believe them? From all the threads here just seems like it’s a power issue not a pump issue.

My Polaris robot is almost 3 years old and just started throwing error code 1. I tried the basic steps of cleaning the impeller, running it without the filter basket, and cleaned the cable connection. Living in TX, we use it all year. Is this the expected lifespan of the motor, and should I replace the whole motor block? Thanks for any advice

Hi,

Does anyone have any information on winterizing a vinyl pool with a tanning ledge?

My concern is winterizing the skimmer and return lines.

I've owned and maintained an inground pool for over 30 years. My previous pool was a standard 16 x 32 with fiberglass entry steps.

I would drain down just below the skimmers and returns and blow out those lines and then cap them. I left the water at that level and then covered with a mesh cover.

New house, new pool. I now have a 16 x 32 with a tanning ledge. The installer winterized the first year and told me to maintain the water level at least 4 - 5 inches above the ledge.

Gizzmo ultras were used in my skimmers and those lines blowed out. Maintaining water level above tanning ledge. Covered with a solid cover with mesh center drain.

I'm preparing to close and winterize my pool and my question is should I blow out the return lines? If so how do I go about that?

Do I drain below the returns and blow out and cap the lines and fill back up?

Or is there another technique?

Thank you for your time and attention. Any help or directions would be greatly appreciated!

Hi all. We are selecting our pool deck material today and we're trying to decide between Mexican Limestone, Leuders, or stamped concrete (yes, large difference in cost between the three options).

I'd love your opinion on why one would be better over the others. Will the limestone be too slippery? Which option would hold up the best over time? We are in Dallas, TX. Thanks for your time!

Mexican Limestone


Stamped Concrete

Had our rebuild done last June, and got the "Ansylbrite" quartz finish (the Anthony/Sylvan branding.)

I've had an issue with pH drifting up from 7.6 to over 8.0 constantly ever since last season (see thread: New Plaster with pH drift but want to close) and it kept up this season, albeit slowing somewhat. I only had to put in 4 gallons of Muriatic over the ~4 months or so I had it open this year.

Using BBB all the pool's life - pretty low CYA (~40) from 3" tabs in the feeder, but high calcium (~450), Alkalinity 80.

In any case, at closing I pulled out my cartridge filters and cleaned them as usual. However this year a TON of white sand (see pic) spilled out of them - probably a half-gallon worth at least! I can only assume this came out of the new finish over time. We've had this pool for 15 years, and never had this kind of sand filtering out of the original finish, which was a regular white gunite.

It's making me think they botched the mix somehow. Any ideas before I once again call the builder? Is this common?

Hello,
Just went to prep for closing last night an noticed tiny holes/tears above the water in the corner of our vinyl liner.
We have covered the area with FlexSeal tape and closed our pool this morning.
But am wondering thoughts on how to handle this moving forward/when we open next spring? Will it be ok over winter with the FlexSeal tape? What do we do for a longer term solution that looks nicer?

Hot Springs recommends the following water chemistry for use with their ACE Salt Water System:
Salt: 1750ppm
pH: 7.4
TA: 80ppm
CH: 50ppm
Chlorine: 3ppm
The low CH is to prevent scaling of the cell, but plugging these values into a water balance calculator at 102F produces a very low CSI (-0.9) which suggests aggressive / etching chemistry. What gives? Wouldn't it be better to bump the TA and pH a bit to help bring the water into balance and raise the CSI?

Thanks!
Don

Pool Antifreeze vs. RV Antifreeze: What’s the Difference?​

Is It Safe to Swim with Antifreeze in the Water?

My pool has a 4 ft retaining wall. It has been losing a lot of water per day the last few days like probably 3" per day and it's been cooler than the summer when we would lose maybe .5" a day.

Today I went in the opposite side of the retaining wall and there is standing water.

I tried the pool dye technique to check all of the jets. The only ones that look suspect are two of the hot tub returns and when firing the spa up alone there was noticable air bubbles coming from those returns only.

The next thing I checked was the suction side. I have two skimmers and the double main drain piped together, and well as the hot tub main drains. I was able to run the pump fine off both skimmers alone but there is a considerable amount of air, like a LOT when I turn only the main drain valve on on the suction side.

About three hours after shutting off the system the hot tub was down probably 4" and I noticed the backflow preventer for the spa noticable was half way full of air on the return.

I was thinking to leave the system off for 24 hrs to try to isolate if it is one big leak or two leaks. I have a feeling though if the hot tub return pipes are leaking they would only drain down to about the top of the return line, right?

I was considering shutting off the spa valves and running the pool again tomorrow if the pool level has not gone down and then if both continue to drain, I was considering to swim down and plug the main drains with the rubber plugs. This is not going to be easy though as the water level is about 8ft.

One other odd thing I noticed is that when I put the pool in to service mode that on the return side the jandy valve does not completely shut off the Spa returns (the fountain returns are separate). Is it normal for a small amount of water to go to the spa still? The problem is there is no manual valve to shut off the spa returns, only the fountains, so unless I adjust the valve stops i can't run the pool cimpletely isolated from the spa.


Sorry for all of the questions at once!

I have this sticky thick stuff showing up in my skimmers. The skimmer in the shallow end is much worse. When I clean it off, it comes back the next day.

Hi everyone,
My name is Paula. In the last few months I was reunited with my family in Florida. My elderly aunt and uncle took me in. My uncle is also recovering from cancer and now struggles with task that were once easy, like this pool timer.

Can someone look at the attached pics., and here’s what’s happening:

The app does not work/function the timer
The only way to operate it, is to turn the breaker on/off
When attaching jumper #2 per the diagram, it trips the breaker

Does anyone have any good leads on where in the DFW area to find liquid chlorine during the coming fall and winter? Walmart has pulled all of its supplies, and Lowes and HomeDepot are asking $2.30 more per gallon than Walmart, even in volume.

I run my bubblers and scuppers at least once per day for 15 minutes apiece to ensure their lines are properly chlorinated.

Should I be doing the same for my gas-fired heater and my Glacier chiller?

Thanks.

hi
I am wondering what this is.. is it black algae. Doesn’t come off easily at all.. I use the steel brush and changes slight colour from black to greenish… used the puck and brush and puck and brush.. and no change.

Currently slamming the pool as it’s gone cloudy. Went cloudy as fc dropped to 4 and cya of 50.. issue seems to be made harder as we have heated the pool and it’s currently 30 degrees..

wife wants me to head to a pool shop

Hello all. I'm on my second pool, The first one was a tiny <2000 gal pool and I swore by the BBB method. Now I'm on one that is a tad bigger, around 8900 gallons, and this time I said I wanted a better filter media. So I did a bit of research (not much) and thought that getting zeolite sand would be a good idea. What appealed to me was the 2-5 micron filtering size compared to the 30-40 micron of the sand. But my filter is one speed and I just learned that Zeolite doesn't like fast flow. I went about 3 months without any issues. We went on vacation and got back to a green pool. I thought that would be no issue since I could correct the green pool in about 3 days. Well, it's been 3 weeks. The pool is teal, I've been shocking it almost every day and the bottom still has a bunch of algae, and super cloudy. After some research, I think the culprit is the Zeolite. So tomorrow I'll be getting some plain 'ol pool sand and not the Quickrete kind. Crossing my fingers that solves the issue.

Well we are at the end of the road, pebble in today, acid wash and fill tomorrow.

I just purchased the TF-100 kit recommended as I understand salt won't be added for 30 days.

My question is did I waste money and should have just got the TF-pro Salt kit from the start even though for first 30 days I won't have a salt water pool?

Thanks!

Hi Guys,

I finally fixed all the issues with my pool in last two season and decided to make a final big investment (hopefully for some time) to buy a solid safety pool cover. I definitely would like to have a solid and not mesh because it will allow me to keep the water almost 100% clear when I am opening it in spring. I do understand that the pump will be required to take our the water from the top of the cover but I did it for two years already and do not think it is a very big deal, simply have your pump to be connected through the smart outlet so you could just on and off that thing from your phone (yes, I am lazy lol).

Now, these covers are crazy expensive. I have a 20x40 pool and the average price for the cover set is around 2-3k. I found only one cheaper option (LINK) for 1.7k but still worried it is a bit too much. Maybe someone have some good verified stores where I can find a better price? I will handle the installation on my own.

Thank you!

Final detail. One builder told me he uses a 7.5” sleeve….current builder said they always use 6”.

Both don’t care which I choose, I just want to make sure I can put any umbrella the Mrs finds into it.

Do all umbrellas fit into the 7.5? Curious if anyone has an opinion on this.

Thanks!

As stated, I'm having issues with the app. Recently upgraded, by USB as OTA would not work, to firmware 4.8.1. Since that time, I can't access the app. I get the "Omni Controller lost connection to router". This system has been working to control pool functions for 1 year.

Some things that are probably important.
1. Started with a WiFi connection. Both the OnmiLogic control panel and my Orbi system showed the antenna connected.
2. Converted to ethernet. Both panel and Orbi show connection.
3. I have installed and uninstalled the app.
4. I have deleted my app account and created a new one with a different email.
5. I tried having my phone on cellular and turning off the wifi, but that didn't work either.
6. In my searches, I've read that the OmniLogic controller and the Orbi don't get along very well. But again, they worked fine for one year.
7. EDIT TO ADD: I can connect to the upgrade server which states I am at the latest firmware.
Nada. I've tried contacting Hayward directly to no avail.

Any helpful hints would be gratefully appreciated.

So I just had to order a new safety cover after 12 seasons. It would have lasted longer, but my mountain pond pool has concrete coping that is very rough. My current two Golden Retrievers have found that running entire length of yard AND on pool cover is a fun way to get rid of the zoomies. Unfortunately that has worn too many spots and an investment of $3300 for a replacement. Prices are simply insane, so I need to increase longevity of the cover.

I had a thought of getting about 20 1/4"x36" rods, and use the safety cover anchor holes fo attach a black snow fence. Would be about $175 investment and would limit their access to pool cover (please note, safety is the job of the cover not the DIY cheap fence).

Anyone ever done this? Tested out fit and strength of rods, and seems solid enough. I am concerned about metal interaction with chlorine, salt, brass and aluminum, but will figure that out.

Thoughts? Thanks!

I have a Pentair MasterTemp 400K BTU Heater that is under warranty (pool startup was Thanksgiving 2021...so ~21 months ago). It recently started leaking, and the technician came out yesterday and confirmed that it is totaled. He pulled off the heater manifold, and the copper tubing had corroded through. He also tested the water, which showed high in copper and an alkalinity level of 50 (I tested when he left and my TFP kit shows between 60 and 70). In general. I have always targeted TA between 60 and 80 (per the TFP app) and a pH of 7.6. The alkalinity level is usually on the money (70ish), and pH (if anything) gets a little high...but it's mostly stable, so I rarely have to add muriatic acid.

I have not heard anything official from Pentair yet, but the tech says that they will likely deny the claim. He says that the ideal alkalinity is 80-100, and low alkalinity would be the reason that my heater failed. Prior to the discussion with the tech, my understanding was that low pH (not low alkalinity) would eat through metal components. Either way though, my pool chemistry has always stayed pretty close to the TFP recommendations. Per page 60 of the Pentair manual, the ideal pH is 7.4 to 7.6. I have definitely stayed in that range or higher. The ideal alkalinity range shows 80-100, but it shows a minimum of 60.

So, I guess my questions are:

1. Anyone had experience with Pentair in this regard? I guess it's my word against theirs on the chemistry...can I fight this with logs?
2. What TA should I really be targeting? 80-100?
3. Can low TA really cause copper to deteriorate and fail? No, right? Should be low pH. Either way, I really wish I had followed the Pentair recommendations rather than TFP...at least until my warranty had expired.
4. Why would there be a discrepancy between the tech's TA test and my TFP TA test?
5. Copper in the water seems bad...do I need to drain/refill?

Hey fellow pool owners! It's been a great summer for our pool using the TFP methods! Haven't had a tinge of anything but bright blue, clear water! Yay! For me, it's been a hard summer because I feel off a ladder picking cherries and smashed my wrist into more than 10 pieces! Had to had a rod put in and It's been a tough journey! Having surgery again on 10/6 to take the rod back out. Anyway, I've searched around for threads about covering a pool in Michigan for the winter. I can't seem to find what I thought I had read before, about some people not bothering with a winter cover and just using a leaf cover for the fall and then again in the spring. My pool is 21x42 ABG. Anyone have experience doing this? Just thought I would eliminate one more thing if that is a reasonable idea in our awful winters!

Hello! New pool owner here. I've been lurking for a number of months--a huge thank you to all the contributors here as I've been able to learn a ton. We finally just finished our pool and 30 day start-up, and I'm looking for some guidance to find the optimal settings for our pump. My general understanding is lower RPMs at longer time = less electricity cost and happier pool, and therefore I'm planning to keep the pump running as low as possible for 24 hours.

What settings would you recommend?

I added my pool details to my signature, but here are as many relevant facts I can come up with:

- pool and spa is 7300 gallons
- SWG
- 3 HP Pentair VSF
- pebble finish
- Dolphin M400 robot
- goal of pump is to keep pool as clean as possible
- we are in Florida and able to swim 365 days
- we have some oak tree cover and will have periods with high leaf fall (will likely get a Betta once the leaves start falling in February)
- no major water features other than two bubblers on shelf and spa waterfall

Photo included, but I will upload some better shots once the landscaping is finished.

Thanks in advance!

I have a 2 year old Polaris Quattro. Noticed that it wasn't doing its job - it is turning in wide right hand circles. I thought it would be just worn out gear or tires. Checked the gears - they're fine. Replaced the rubber tires. No change in behavior. Still doing right hand circles. Took it all apart. Found that the drive shaft was broken. So I got that in the mail today and replaced the drive shaft. And yes...no change! It's still turning in right hand circles. Any thoughts on what my problem could be? Thanks for any help....

Hey everyone,

Looking for some advice on finding the cause of water getting behind our liner. We noticed about midway through the summer that there was water behind the liner. We got a pump and pumped it back into the pool and about a week later we noticed the water coming back. Based on how clear & clean the water is, I'm pretty confident it's coming from inside the pool and it's not groundwater. I went around the pool looking for anything suspicious and didn't notice anything. I then tried the dye test and couldn't find anything that way either. I'm at a bit of a loss on how to find where the water is getting out. The water is behind the liner on all four corners of the pool but seems to be the most in one corner in the deep end. I checked around the light niche but didn't take the light out. I did go down to the bottom and checked around the drain and there is water underneath the liner at the bottom of the deep end also. Any help or ideas is appreciated.

Hello everyone
I have a intellitouch panel with a remote which we (myself and the pool expert) decided to upgrade in spite of spending an exemplary amount on the remote battery.

I bought an intellicenter upgrade kit from epoolsupply.com ( part No: 522046). We put on the board and connected the Ethernet cable to the antenna which stays outside close to the pool. The indoor module was connected to the router using an Ethernet cable.

The pool is running. System says the internet is connected but no wireless networks seem to be connected. Could not connect the app remotely to the pool management. App works when I am in the house on the same network.

I did not connect the long white cable with 4 coloured wires between the antenna and the main board. Just Ethernet is running between. Can you help me to solve this please. Called Pentair and epoolsupply.com. Both were not helpful. My pool guy says it’s electronics and he doesn’t know. Any input appreciated.

Customer profile was set to enabled for wifi

Hi everyone. We did all the install on a used pool with a new liner at the beginning of the season. I noticed, after it’s filled with water, that one of the uprights is too high so my stabilizer bar is not sitting inside the top plate. Does this matter? Or will the pressure of the water pushing the walls out keep everything where it needs to be. Or do I need to dig under the bottom plate to bring the upright down a bit? There’s also the one side of the stabilizer bar thats off the pool wall and just sitting in the top rail, should I push that down so it’s on the pool wall instead? It’s only the one part of the pool that’s like that, the rest are all nested nicely. Thanks!