I accidentally drained 10 inches below my skimmer for winterizing. Will this pose a problem or will it be okay. Thanks for advice.

IC40 salt cell has no lights and 12a SCG breaker trips when starting pump in normal operation mode. I'm able to start the pump in service mode but still no lights on salt cell. The incoming voltage to the salt system transformer is ~240V. The voltage from the transformer to the salt system circuit board was fluctuating between 29.9 & 30 V. I called Pentair and they said to change the fuse. I don't have a replaceable fuse - its a 12a SCG circuit breaker. Green light on circuit board is illuminated but is dimmer after circuit breaker trips. Checked board for fried part and nothing obvious except the silver blobs (sorry don't know what these are). Does it sound like the circuit board is fried? Any other idea? Slat cell is 2 yr-1 month old and is out of 2-yr warranty.

Blowing bubbles in an old man’s redneck riviera

Hello all, New England gal here, I've read "all" the posts on here about winterizing Intex AGPs and haven't found an answer to this...I read the Swim University article on winterizing, as recommended by many folks here: (How to Winterize An Above Ground Pool in 11 Steps). There's just one thing we don't quite understand: Swim Uni says not to drain the water below the skimmer if you don't need to, just plug up the holes and leave the water in because it's better for the pool walls. Intex also says to just plug the holes and leave the water in, albeit those are the directions for warmer climates. We are inclined to leave the water full, since it's easier and because the walls on this style of pool bow in when it's anything but full.

Anyone in a colder climate have experience leaving the water in? I will post some pics of our set up later today, but it's the out-of-the box Intex skimmer/return with no modifications. TIA!!!! : )

Hey, y'all! Happy to find you. When we bought this house, it came with a steel sided 18' x 52" pool. We didn't know it, but the sides were almost totally rusted. We discovered it when we went to replace the leaking liner. We just ordered and received the Intex Ultra XTR. I'm watching some videos and see that the legs are outside the pool, being this is a soft-side pool (not sure I'm using the right term).

The pool that was here was dug into a hole in the yard that's about 6 inches deep. Will this Intex work with our existing spot?

Moved from HERE
I have a very new pool with all Pentair equipment. Yesterday a Pentiar licensed tech came to address and repair a water drip from the heater. All was good for several hours until I wenyt to activate and heat the spa. The remote would not respond to any command and the pump stopped working, Display in the main control box showed "error code 14"..Manual shows no error code above 6,. Main control panel will not respond to any command (even pool light). Heater flashes "Service" light, Remote control shows "Service" and will not respond to any button. This AM went out and hit F1 and the pump did start. Service light still on in the heater and the remote still only says :service. Ideas and suggestions welcomed.

My Prowler 930 died I purchased from Marina P&S and looking at another. Came across a website Poolbots which shows an authorized dealer. They have the Dolphin Sigma - 2 questions;
1. Anyone have exp. with the group at Poolbots for purchase or service ?
2. Anyone have exp. with the Dolphin Sigma ?

thanks

hey everyone, finished the pool build about a month ago and here for the knowledge.

Definitely a bit confused by the aqualink system and trying to navigate the swg system.

We’ve had an inground 20 x 40 pool for 40 years & I just did the most stupid thing ever Cleaning out 90 yr old uncles home after he passed away…I found 1/2. Gallon of Baquacil….I thought what could it harm to add to our pool….well, I found out instantly!! Omgggg The perfectly clear blue water immediately started turning green…I am sick !! What can be done ??? Please help !!

So I have a problem I have been trying to figure out for 3 years. Hoping someone on here may help.

I have a new (3 year old) pool and spa.

When the pool/spa was initially installed I had 1 variable speed pump, 2 deck laminears, waterfall, auto cover, and suction side pool cleaner. Functions are all controlled by electronic actuators.

When storms come through, our power flickers quite a bit before going all the way out. When the power flickers my whole home generator will turn on then off when utility power returns. When we finally loose utility power, the generator will run until it returns (for sometimes many hours). While the generator was running (sometimes for several hours), the waterfall feature will randomly turn on and pump water onto the automatic cover. Luckily I was home and able to turn off the breaker to the pool panel to stop the feature.

Around this time, I also wanted to be able to run my water features while in spa mode. I had my pool company come out and install another variable speed pump plumbed into my suction side port for the cleaner (cleaner eliminated), which would now provide water for the laminears and waterfall.

after we made this chance, We lost power and while the generator was running the waterfall turned on again....

I witnesses this several times and called pentair to find a solution. They told me that it must be caused by the generator and they had never heard of this before.

I called my generator installer and had them place the pool on a load shed, which would not allow the pool panel to receive power while the generator was running unless I physically push a button to allow it to be energized. I figured this would permanently solve the problem.

Last week, we had storms come through and lost power. The power flickered many times before going all the way out. The generator turned on and the load shed did not allow the pool panel to be energized. The generator ran from 12am - 3am, no issues. Utility power returned at 3am and the pool panel was energized. At this time (verified on security camera) the waterfall turned on by itself. It continued to run until 7am when I woke up and looked out the window to see ~16" of water on my auto cover. As I mentioned above, the pump for these features are plumbed into my old cleaner line. Once the waterfall sucked down the water to this inlet it ran the pump dry and cold not continue to pump more water. I am extremely suprised that the auto cover did not break or tear. I guess it really can hold an elephant!

When I saw the water on the cover, I ran out to the pool panel. It was illuminated and on but no words were displayed on the screen. My phone app, should nothing on and just had 2 -- (blank lines) where the temp would normally be.
Link to video of panel: IMG_2404.MOV

I read a bunch of posts on this forum and see a lot of interesting threads, nothing that matches my senario exactly. Saw something similar that @Jimrahbe was able to help someone with. Jim (or other pentair expert) I would be willing to pay for your time to walk though this issue and see if we can get it resolved. Seems that it might be the motherboard of the panel, but I would hate to replace it just to find out something was wired incorrectly or set up incorrectly.

Thanks in advance if anyone can help.

Hi All,
New member and pool owner here. I have a 25 year old IG pool that I've estimated to be about 12,000 gallons. It has a small waterfall feature and an IG spa with it's own booster pump. Current main circulation pump is a single speed 3/4 HP 3450 RPM Sta-Rite Dura Glas that runs 7 - 8 hours a day. There is a large gas heater that we rarely use, and a good sized Sta-Rite filter with 300 SF of media and a 100 GPM max rate. Piping is 2 inch. We're struggling with very high utility bills, $600-800/ month, with just a 2000 SF house. I am looking to upgrade the pump to a Pentair VS and am considering Model 342002, 1.5 HP SuperFlo VST. Will that provide the ability to reduce the RPMs enough to cut down on our electric bill and also run the pump longer, for better filtration cycles? I have access to a very nice 1 year old pump that was replaced due to a pool remodel, and can get it for a very good price from the original purchaser. For $500, it's very tempting. I'm the kind of guy that buys good used cars, used high quality appliances, and works on all my own stuff. I'll be installing and maintaining this as well. Thoughts and advice welcome!

Trying to blow out a dedicated vacuum line that's hooked up to a Polaris booster pump.

The booster pump takes in water from the return line and returns it via a line to the side of the pool where I would hook up the vacuum.

I believe they call it pressure side vacuum (?).

I'm using a 3 hp cyclone blower and was able to blow out all my other lines with no problems.

Basically after 4 years of having the pool guys do it I decided to buy the exact blower they use and do it myself with the help of some friends.

I pretty much followed the steps they did in closing the pool.

My question is do I need a air compressor to blow this line because the pool guys did not use a air compressor.

Has anyone used the cyclone blower to blow out the vacuum line?

Any help or suggest greatly appreciated.

Attached are pics of my vacuum set up.

Thank you.

Hi - I'm Jerry Hoffmeister, live in Seattle WA and have a 2022 HotSpring Jetsetter LX with a salt system. My previous tub was a 1997 Jetsetter that I acquired used in 2010. I use a Taylor K-2006 drop kit for measuring stuff (I hate the test strips) and have some add on (salt and phosphates tests) from Taylor as well. I'm currently about to try out Aqua Clarity - I've ordered some to arrive on Sunday.

I am looking for any suggestions/recommendations for the proper sized/type motor/pump for a 6 foot round, 54 inch deep cedar soaking/hot tub. I just have 1 suction and 2 returns with eyeball fittings, so I am not looking to power a bunch of jets or anything- just to circulate the water. I have 120v power set up for it (220 at the heater) and am looking to replace my old 1.5 hp 48 inch waterway 2 speed pump, that I used with a 6 jet tub, but now without the jets it seems like a bit of overkill power wise for my newly configured tub. I really just want something quiet and efficient. I would appreciate any recommendations/ suggestions. Thank you so much and have a great day!

I have a hot tub with Gecko S Class circuit board. When I went to heat up the tub earlier, started smelling burning smell and started seeing smoke. I shut off power immediately!

A few hours later I opened the circuit board box and found that one of the cables from heater burned as well as where that cable screwed into the circuit board.

A week ago I noticed 3 dots steadily blinking on the control screen, so now I am remembering that YouTube says it may be a flow condition or HL condition. I should have ignored it.

Can someone please advise what likely happened here???

Disassembled and reassembled filter. About 0.25 inches of dirty/muddy accumulation at base of filter. Seal failure?

Appreciate the help!!

Hello, my pump is not turning on. It’s been about two weeks since we last used it. I do not hear the pump start at all. Any ideas to troubleshoot?

I just joined this AM. I have an inground pool about twelve years old. I ditched my SWG when my third one only lasted about 60 days, and have been using tabs & shock for about three years. The result is CYA over 180, and I'm now draining my pool. I see now tabs are not the fix I had thought or maybe these are, I'm not sure. I'd like thoughts on sanitizing the pool water going forward. Please share any successful approaches based on your experiences. Thank you.

I am in the process of gaining bids from landscapers and PB's in my area (Arizona) to get started on a project at my new construction home. Why is everyone freaking me out about going with a SWG and all the "deterioration" that will happen by going this route???

My plan has been a SWG and limestone coping between the pool and a pad of turf. I have a soft water loop that I would likely use to tap into for the autofill.

Am I going to be okay going with this plan? I don't know who to believe now...

I’ve been buying my pool acid (the regular muriatic acid stuff) by the gallon at Pinch A Penny. Since I use 2 gallons a month, the cost adds up fast. Do any of you know of a cheaper place to buy it? I don’t mind buying a case or two at a time for a quantity discount.

Quick timeline and some pics for reference.... DFW area

Feb 20 - Pool plastered w/ pebbletec
Feb 22 - Orenda startup begins

Note, pool already quite dirty here. Landscaping was not put in prior to pool startup.

Feb 26 - Continued brushing helps a little but still can't get it "clean"



March 17 - Still not really better. After being told to "brush toward the drain" we just have ugly bottom of pool now too. But still not clean throughout even when brushing. Irrigation repairs finally done



March 21 - 4 1/2 pallets sod finally installed in yard (mostly back yard, some front)

April 8 - getting worse. Readings continue to show low/no chlorine or stabilizer



April 11 - Pool service tells us we need filter cleaned. Pics below









April 14 - Still not getting better

Newbie here...

Black algae is my worst enemy lol...we have spent hundreds on treatments from the pool store. We have a pool guy that I am ready to get rid of because with him and us buying treatments, we still have NOT gotten rid of this black algae. We have gotten close to it but we missed a weekend of cleaning and BOOM it was back with a vengeance. We have shocked it and used an algaecide and scrubbed and scrubbed and cleaned filters and omg...my husband and I are ready to make it a huge garden. I am so done with pool stores and their remedies that dont work and Im sick of paying a guy to just test my water and add chemicals when I can do that. Help! Anyone have any miracles for this algae that I cant get rid of!?!? Thanks all for your help in advance
We have an inground pool, about 20,000 gallons, Hayward pump, Robert is our sweeper, and a frog who holds water because chlorine tabs dissolve quick =D

I’m wanting to run my suction side vacuum and solar skimmer as my main cleaning methods. The only issue I see is that the main drain/skimmer share a line with the suction vacuum. Because they share a line, I have to close off the main drain/skimmer to about 75% at 2600rpm to match the advised wheel rpm on the vacuum manual.

Will my pump run dry if the main drain side is closed off 75% and the vacuum clogs? How limited will filtration be if it’s mainly coming in from the vacuum line at 1000rpm for 8 hours a day? Is there a better way to configure this?

Pool build complete late Feb. Immediate wetspot near skimmers and main drain. Here we are in October... still no root cause. We've had 3 leak detections. Plumbers. Geologist. Irrigation. All don't seem to find the source of the water. We all thought water table, but geologist found none. Pressure is good. We have an autofill, spa, and gutters are tied into drainage. My guess is it has something to do with whatever is not under pressure. Have 4th leak detection this week and they are bringing out listening devices.

I have a Jandy VSP that's setup with a few different speeds: an idle speed of 1100 RPM, a filter speed at 1750, and a solar heating speed at 2200. I just noticed that my pump is running at 1750 even though it should be idling right now. I'm not sure if this is because the pool temp is too low or what. Any ideas?

In HTX. New pool owner.

TL;DR: Looking for recommendations for spillway grout repair in Austin TX.

--

I took ownership of a ~20 year old pool in July and thanks to TFP I have crystal-clear water, however, my spa spillway needs attention.

The grout is worn/missing (see 1st photo), and I know I have a significant leak here, because:
1. Pool inspector (leak specialist) identified this in the pre-purchase pool inspection.
2. The front of the spillway remains wet long after the spillover itself stops (blue area in 2nd photo).
3. I've got all sorts of calcium (I think) leaching out of the walls of the spa (red arrows in 2nd photo), which I assume means there's water being absorbed into the spa wall/structure.

Good news is when I switch to pool mode, the spa water level stabilizes at the bottom of the spillway (visible in 1st photo). So I don't appear to have any leaks beneath the spillway level, just the spillway itself. Now, I have successfully applied underwater epoxy / pool putty to my skimmers where they join the plaster, but the spillway is too big / too visible an area for epoxy. I'd like to have this repaired properly, and expect I might need to do this every few years based on posts I've read on TFP.

My question is: what kind of company do I call to make this kind of repair (re-grout spillway)?

I'm decently handy, but I've never done this kind of work and I'd like to pay a pro to have it done properly the first time at least. Maybe I can handle this in future.
Most of the pool service companies around me seem to be focused on weekly service and equipment (e.g. pump/filter/etc) repairs. Is it normal for your run-of-the-mill pool service companies like this to also do pool surface repairs? Or is there a different class of service companies who specialize in this? If so, what do I need to look for?

I have found some folks (like these folks) who mention "grout removal and replacement", but advertise themselves as leak detection specialists, it's just that they handle all the subsequent repairs. So I expect they can do it, I just don't know if I'd be paying a premium for leak detection I don't need.

I'm in the Austin area, if anyone has any first hand recommendations, that would be great, also.

EDIT TO ADD: If there's a better spillway design I should consider, let me know. If there's an option that would reduce the need for ongoing maintenance down the road I'd consider that, even if there was some upfront cost. But from what I'm reading it seems like annual checks and repair is the norm for this kind of spillover.

Hi all,

for my final inspection, I would need to install alarms on all doors and windows with access to the pool area. The alarms must have a bypass options, but I dont seem to be able to find any where it is specified that they have that. Any of you have those you can recommend? I have two sliding doors, and three windows.

Thanks

Hi- I searched for this but didn’t see an answer. After 4 months ago taking over care of my SWG pool from my pool service, I’m trying to learn all I can.

Pool/attached spa/hot tub is ~7-8yo. Installed by prior owner and was a chlorine (I’m assuming- it definitely wasn’t a SWG) pool. When I purchased 3ya, I had all new equipment installed- including changing over to SWG. Didn’t then, or since, drain + refill the pool.

I read that if there was bromine added to the pool prior to, or if my former pool guys added some algaecides (zero idea if they did or not), that the existing bromine will convert the SWG generated chlorine also to bromine. Is that the case, or did I misinterpret what I read?

I have the Taylor K-2006C FAS-DPD kit w an additional NaCl test kit and then also purchased the smaller bottle kit that is only Chlorine/Bromine (DPD) +pH/TA (accidentally purchased thinking it was a borates test kit- why I have it along w the Big Mac-Daddy kit)

I use the FAS-DPD testing almost daily for my FC/CC/TC testing to keep that level where it should be. So the chlorine levels are good.

My thought is, however, if there is bromine in my pool water, constantly converting the generated chlorine to bromine- assuming that is making my SWG cell work way harder than it should have to.

Question is:
Is there a way to use the “little” test kit in conjunction to tell if there has been added bromine in my pool?

If so, and there is, does that really matter? Would it eventually just go away on its own or would that be something I’d need to do something about?

And I totally could be way off base on this whole line of thinking- know you all will know the answers! I’ve learned so much here in the last few months- Thank you!!!

Rachel

PS- I think I linked my premium pool math account/testing to here… but in case it isn’t- and makes a difference- all testing results just now:

(And, on a side note- the markings on all my test kits are off a bit from what they actually are- I’m a nurse and brought home clean 10cc and a 60cc luer lock syringes- easy to pull apart and rinse then stick my arm in to fill- carry to the shade to test… all markings are actually slightly less than that actual volume- 10ccs measured reaches the 11.5cc line, etc- but I digress- just what I have found on all the included containers and vials… )

pH- 7.8 (going to add the recommended MAcid to take down to 7.6- have waterfall and spa spillover while pump runs that also pushes pH up so have been taking it down to 7.6 and adding MA when it gets to 7.8)
FAS-DPD (25mL sample) FC 6.6
CC 0 (TC 6.6)
CYA 70
CH 450
TA 75

NaCl 3600

With “little” 6-way Residential Test Kit-

Max reading of Cl/Br side is 5/10 so w my known FC 5 I mixed half pool and half tap water = reading in the 3/6 panel (*2)=
DPD Cl 6 & Bromine 12
(Know CC is zero but did the 5gtts of R-0003 TC test- just to see & color unchanged as expected)

pH color right in the middle of the 7.5 and 7.8 indicators- 7.65 but I’ll trust my 44mL “big kit” testing (7.8) over this one w a <6mL sample

TA 80

If you’ve made it this far? You rock! I really appreciate you!!! Xoxo

Seems like Black and Decker released a pool heat pump.
Anybody can say anything about it?