pH result guessing game

I think I like the CYA test more than the pH. Unless the pH is really low or really high, it drives me nuts. :crazy: I dislike meters as well. As with all tests, get your reading and dump it. If you let any of them sit they change.
Lol!
Just sent my husband to the store for button batteries for my ph meter. I’m not confident in its readings yet, but in this case I might be.
So you’re thinking 7.6?
 
My understanding has always been you’re NOT supposed to shake it. Just cap and invert. No?
No. Taylor says not to shake but I get a better mix and results with a quick shake.
 

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His inverting three times is what I call a quick shake...

 
@ajw22 and @Texas Splash
Ya’ll are about as clear as mud. LOL!
One says take the first reading, which would be the first photo.
One says lightly shake, which would be more like the second photo.

Had 6 teens in today for what was probably the last use of the pool this season (water temp 71 degrees). So whatever the case, I‘m sure it’s higher now.

Hubs couldn’t find the batteries for the meter. I’ll have to order on amazon.
Also got a new Robot today! Jacuzzzi JCRX.
 
@ajw22 and @Texas Splash
Ya’ll are about as clear as mud. LOL!
One says take the first reading, which would be the first photo.
One says lightly shake, which would be more like the second photo.

No one days let it sit and wait 10 seconds before reading the color.
 
I use a "Manual pH Test Color Determination Filter". (Slot cut on a white index card.) Until I got the cataract taken care of, the test was Really giving me fits, closing the bad eye and trying to see the color with my "good" eye. 👁️
 

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Fwiw, I'd call it 7.7. A little more orange than 7.8 and a little more red than 7.6. The Taylor instructions say interpolation is okay.

Here's a trick to tell when it's risen to 8.0 (because that's when to add MA)... For me the shades of red at the top are hardest to tell apart... First do the normal reading and then add one drop of acid demand. This creates a second color to use for cross-referencing. In my case if the second color matches 7.6, I know from experience that the first was right at 8.0.

Maybe you can try this as well. The acid demand bottle isn't useful for anything else afaics :)

This will be pool-specific to be learned by trying a few times. It will also depend on TA, so only useful when TA is at a set value.
 
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Fwiw, I'd call it 7.7. A little more orange than 7.8 and a little more red than 7.6. The Taylor instructions say interpolation is okay.

Here's a trick to tell when it's risen to 8.0 (because that's when to add MA)... For me the shades of red at the top are hardest to tell apart... First do the normal reading and then add one drop of acid demand. This creates a second color to use for cross-referencing. In my case if the second color matches 7.6, I know from experience that the first was right at 8.0.

Maybe you can try this as well. The acid demand bottle isn't useful for anything else afaics :)
Good info!
Thanks!
 
First do the normal reading and then add one drop of acid demand. This creates a second color to use for cross-referencing. In my case if the second color matches 7.6, I know from experience that the first was right at 8.0.
+1
However, for my pool, it has always been .2 lower. This method works well for me to really tell the difference. My 8.0 reading with R-0004 shows 7.8 when I add a drop of
R-0005. I can successfully do this up the scale with the K-2006C pH comparator.
 
+1
However, for my pool, it has always been .2 lower. This method works well for me to really tell the difference. My 8.0 reading with R-0004 shows 7.8 when I add a drop of
R-0005. I can successfully do this up the scale with the K-2006C pH comparator.
Yeah I should have been clearer. It will be different for every pool, so needs to be determined by experiments over time, and I'm sure it's also affected by TA. It assumes TA is steady.
 

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