Videos of the pump failing to start

Ordered from Pool Supply Unlimited in February.

Installed end of April.

Turned it off today to switch the filter to backwash and it will not come back on normally now. Just continually starting up for a few second, then shutting down.

Submitted an RMA request to Pool Supply Unlimited.

I was out floating around yesterday for three hours or so. Water was clear and warm. When I got out of the pool, my skin was very dry. My young daughter complained of itchy skin. Neither of us has particularly sensitive skin.

I had my solar cover on for a few days, so I allowed my FC to creep up a bit high for my CYA level. I've never given higher FC levels a second thought as I like the extra insurance against algae. Nothing else in my chemistry stands out as a contributing factor. Could the higher ratios of FC to CYA cause dry skin?

FC 9.5
CC 0
pH 7.5
TA 90
CH 300
CYA 70
Salt 3200
Temp 87
CSI -0.23

Hi all,

3 times now over the past month I have woken up to see the hot tub and heater running. one time I had used the spa the night before but it was 99% shut off as I grilled dinner later that night and would have noticed the spa on. The 2nd time teenage son use the spa the evening prior, said he turned it off, but I figured ok maybe not and didn't think further. Well this morning I woke it, pool was running and nobody use the spa last nite.

So first two times I said "probably wasn't something we did but maybe" but the 3rd time now I really think it has come on by itself.

If there any way programmatically to prevent this sort of thing? I just have 2 timers set in Intellicenter, one for the pool and one for the lights.

Hi All,

I’m preparing to add RS-485 Surge protection to my 2 IntelliPro VSF pumps, MasterTemp and IntelliChem data lines. I will use the SerialComm RS-485 Surge Protector as recommended here. My plan is to add a ground bus (top right in picture below) to handle all the additional ground wires (8, for the 4 surge suppressors), 12 awg (flexible, stranded) for ground wires and excess wire from my VSF communication cable to reconnect the surge suppressors back to the IntelliCenter control boards.

Is this plan the best way to go? I’m going to add many additional wires and the suppressors to a relatively small area. Is the ground bus approach and placement ok? Should I rather place the suppressors for the MasterTemp and IntelliChem in their units and not inside the IntelliCenter Control Power Center? Other considerations?

Thanks,

Tony

Need to replace current fixture ,got 22 years out of it.
Its a Hayward astrolight Sp-0580 series , 120Volt 500watt.
Want to install 12 volt LED (already have transformer, )
Can someone tell me what other brands of lights will fit in niche ?
35,000 gal liner pool. Thanks.

We currently have a Hayward Super Pump 2HP (SP2615X20). We think it's over 15+ years old and is making very loud noises which we believe are the bearings. We are looking to replace because of the age. We have added a SWG and a heat pump in the past few years and I think that may increase our need for the pump.

We did a TDH test with gauges and got a TDH of 83.

We were looking at a Hayward pump replacement: MaxFlo VS, SuperPump VS of Tristar VS. Our existing plumbing is 1.5" if that makes a difference. Any suggestions?

Hi, please look at this video and the photos. This is an unusual location for a leak isnt it? There is clearly a seam on both ports, but I am not sure how it could produce a leak. Is this a matter of needing o-rings, or tightening something? I do I need to get some marine epoxy and seal that seam up? any thoughts or experience with a plumbing leak at this location on a mastertemp heater? video of drip

I believe I have mustard algae, when I brush the sides or bottom , a cloud of yellowish dust is kicked up, it's been vacuumed but comes back, however the pool is pretty clear , I only noticed due to brushing and then checking if it was still there after vacuuming...
My question is , can we swim today before I go through SLAM + super shock next week to get rid of it?

I'm seriously considering purchasing a hot tub and considering acrylic tubs with speakers. Was told plastic is more durable than acrylic and tubs with speakers are pointless because you barely hear your music over the jets and pump. Is this true? Are tubs with BT speakers overrated? Please let me know what your experience has been.

So I was getting an FL 4, bad ignitor. Tested it and confirmed it had failed. Ordered a new one, installed it, turned it on... got FL 0.

Ran a backwash (it looked nasty in the filter glass), tried again... it fires, burns for a few seconds, then shuts off with no error code. Normally when it's firing, the little flame animation starts going, but in this case it doesn't.

Confirmed that the clock is set properly and the operation isn't stopped by schedule (it's 6:30pm; schedule is 8am to 8pm).

Any suggestions on what to check next? It was working fine before the ignitor went.

Does anyone own or have experience fixing Aquabot roller issues? Inherited this broken robot cleaner with our pool and house purchase. Was originally purchased in 2008, so I'm also wondering how long the thing will last and if it's worth trying to fix it.

Appears to be a broken WHEEL TUBE ASSY. - AS38253CGY. There are some sellers of parts, and I figure I can probably handle fixing it myself. If anyone has any insider knowledge, please share!

I’m new to this site. We’ve had our pool for two years and are basically doing ok. However, we are in the country and have a water well, not City water. The three things that are always needing attention are phosphate levels, chlorine stability, and alkalinity and Calcium hardness. Seems alkalinity and CA are somehow linked.

Anyway, I just ordered a Taylor test kit and will get it in Saturday. Hope I can learn from that kit and this site. Seems the pool store just wants my cash and isn’t too interested in helping me learn how to manage it.

Hey guys I have been dealing with a horrible thrips invasion since my neighbor brought in 4 truckloads of compost that they put on their lawn. They are everywhere not only killing my garden but in the pool too. I had hoped they would move on by now since it is so hot and dry but every time I clean the skimmer they are all over it. They bite like demons, worse than any fire ant bite.
Should I bring the FC level up to the SLAM level for 24 hours to see if I can get them to move on? Passed a OCLT the other night just to be sure and the pool is crystal clear.
Thanks

Hoping someone can help solve our issue with our solar system. We have Helicol solar panels (7), with a 3 way actuator. It's been working fine for about 6 years, but now on both heating and nocturnal cooling, the valve opens and the pump speed raises just fine. However, when the temp reaches the set point, the intellicenter app shows that the solar has stopped heating or cooling, but the pump speed stays up and the valve does not close. If we hard boot the intellicenter panel, the valve closes and stays closed and the pump speed comes back down.
We've checked the wires and they seem fine. It's seems as if the communication is good to open the valve and raise the pump, but not to close the valve and lower the pump speed. Could this be a bad actuator? It turns easily both ways manually. The shaft was replaced a few months ago.

Hello, I have a new pool and auto cover. My cover is binding up and stopping at the same spot in the track. Then my keypad won’t work. Is there a time out period to protect the system?

I just purchased a house in Florida with a small gunite/pebbletec pool (gulf coast near tampa). My guess is it's only about 8k gallons. I live in Houston and have a ~30k gallon gunite/pebbletec pool that I've maintained (with the help of TFP!) for 25 years. As I won't be at the new house much for the next few months while we close things out in TX, I hired a pool guy and he supposedly has been servicing the pool. I got to the house yesterday for the first time and there is a massive algae bloom with very tough green algae. I've been scrubbing with a wire brush and it's barely coming away. I have not seen algae like this in TX. Even when my aging plaster started pitting, the algae embedded in the pits was very small and localized. I bought a small Taylor 2-way kit and the chlorine was 1-2 with

The biggest question is, would this tough green algae really bloom in 4 days? I have never seen it grow that fast in TX. The pool guy, of course, blamed it on the weather and now wants to show up twice a week for double the $$$. Should I fire him and find somebody else?

I am leaving on Friday for several weeks again, so I'm at the mercy of relying on somebody until I get here full time.

Photo before and after much brushing.

I have a del aop 50 and it’s great but the red light comes on during my programmed scheduled cleaning every night. This is insufficient flow. When I manually use a higher rom the red light goes away. Currently the auto pool setting is like 2,200 rpm but I want to change that to 2,700 rpm. I don’t know how to re-program this. The mobile has a programming section but there’s nowhere to change the rpms of certain mode. But I don’t know how to make the Intellitouch change that auto setting. Any advice would help or any recommended videos too. Thanks.

I have some pool maintenance needs and thought I could find some helpful tips and info here at TFP - equally so for my new hot tub.

i have a jandy lxi 400p pool heater from roughly 2008 that will not start.

the history is that this heater did not work when i attempted to use it about 1.5 years ago, so i figured out that the low voltage cable connecting it to the aqualink rs control system was bad. after replacing and reterminating the wires for this connection, the heater worked for the next ~6 months. the heater is refusing to start again, presumably for different reasons that the first time because i've confirmed the low voltage connection between the controller and the heater is live.

i've searched the forum quite a bit to self-educate and found the extremely helpful wiki entry for jandy lxi heaters. from this page, i followed it to the jandy troubleshooting guide with the wiring diagram for the lxi heater series. i have followed these instructions and checked the first few steps, but i have found that at step 5 (page 6) that if i don't see 24 vac between the water pressure switch line and ground, it says

"Do a Back Pressure Test, if pressure is higher than 2 PSI, replace Water Pressure Switch, if less clean filter, baskets or repair pressure problem"

i'm guessing i have a bad water pressure switch, but i would like to confirm that before ordering a replacement part. i couldn't find documentation on how to perform a back pressure test and have no idea how involved this is.

input appreciated, thanks for reading!

Anyone have any advice…

FC. .11
CC. .25
PH. 7.2
TA. 107
CH. 515
CA. 45
Phosphates 2074

Water is crystal clear. Upon opening this season I cannot get FC to raise over .23. I am waiting on my TF pro test kit to arrive so have been taking samples over to Leslie’s several times per day/ week. I have shocked and slammed several times using pool math app equations.
Contributors could possible be??:
-Pool cover has been open for about a week waiting on company to fix in two days.
-person who closed the pool in fall did not put any chemicals in pool so when it was opened this season it looked worse than it ever has over 15 years.
Anyway, if anyone has any ideas, I’d appreciate it. My kids are dying to swim

Morning everyone

I have a Pentair Warrior SE pool cleaner (aka Maytronics 920 aka Prowler 920 aka 'Dory our robot pool cleaner'). She works fine, and has been living a comfortable life in and out of our new pool for the past almost 3 years.

The blue power cord is starting to break down in this horrible Houston heat and sun, and is leaving little blue flakes all over the surface of the water. This is more of an annoyance than anything, but I asked Pentair about a warranty replacement and they laughed and pointed me to a $213 new cable. Mind you, the entire robot was $699.

From past pool robots I know they tend to die a quick and painful death due to motor failure, so I'm wondering if anyone has one sitting in their shed and would be willing to part out the power cable. It's long and blue, tends to get tangled up pretty easily, and has a swivel joint on it that doesn't seem to do a heck of a lot <shrug>.

Alternatively, has anyone figured out a DIY way to fix the cable? I'm actually considering a couple cans of Plasti-dip and a messy afternoon, but I don't know how long that would last and if the end result would be worse than the current situation.

Hello all, I stumbled across TFP whilst researching a pool-related question (I'll post that separately). Looks like a great resource with a lot of knowledge in the group, so I signed up. I'm new on the forum but not a pool newbie; had an above-ground pool for the past 22 years before a big windstorm did it in this past spring. Purchased a new 21" round to replace it, currently waiting for the install to happen. I live in Rochester NY, so unfortunately it's always a short season!

Hello all. So I’ve had my pool a few years now, and have had a good test kit, and pools always been spotless. It’s a 21’ above ground, chlorinated with bleach, with a heater. For some reason this summer I’ve been having a hard time keeping the cya up, and have already added stabilizer once. I’m good about maintaining chlorine levels though. All of a sudden in the last day the pool is cloudy with what looks to be algae on the bottom, kids were just swimming yesterday and they said it was just a little cloudy. FC was 2.6 this morning before adding anything, CC was .1. PH 7.5, cya is below 20. I haven’t had to shock the pool in a long time, just curious what you think would cause such a rapid decline? Thanks, Ryan

The installation images for Intellivalves always look like this configuration:

But what I actually want is this:


I assume I can install the Intellivalve rotated and program the stops in the appropriate places. Is that correct?

My pool remodel is nearing completion. I have one thing coming in the mail tomorrow, and then we'll be able to get plaster/pebble installed within the next week or so (working around the holiday).

The pool builder has said he'll leave startup up to me. I'll fill the pool and balance chemicals myself.

It sounds like the bicarb startup method is the best for durable, long-lasting plaster finish. If anyone has experience with doing it, I'd love to hear from you about what to expect, any challenges, etc.

Calling all Boston-area pool owners.

Backstory: I signed up for the forum several years ago because I was trying to find a creative solution for teaching our now 9 year-old daughter to swim. The issue with her is that she is immunocompromised, and public pools are not an option for her. With the help from this amazing community I've been able to install all the necessary purification equipment in a friend's pool (doctors recommend that to make the pool truly safe for her, it needs a UV lamp installed in addition to the regular filters and chemistry), but we only have access to it several time per summer, which has proven to be insufficient for our daughter to make real progress with her swimming. So I am thinking:

If there are people around us who, for example, go away for a week or two on vacation and don't mind us using their pool for an hour or two every day while they are away -- we'd be happy to pay for such arrangement. It seems that daily swimming would provide her with the consistency she needs to get over a hump and get comfortable with water. I understand that liability issues may be a concern for an arrangement like this, but we'd obviously be happy to sign whatever waivers you'd ask for in order to be comfortable.

Yes, I know about swimply and other sites that offer by-the-hour pool rentals, but that business model effectively means that those pools are public, thus defeating the point.

I know -- a long shot, but I thought I'd post it here just in case.

Hi all, I'm about to slam my pool. I'm going to lower the pH to 7.2. do I really need to wait 24 hours before I add liquid bleach? Thanks.

I’m trying to read the pool school articles, but they assume a certain level of knowledge.
I’m trying to take over caring for our pool and am fairly clueless. When I read about tests, it assumes you know what kind of testing kit you have.
Can someone tell me what mine is?

Also, we use refresh granules…
I’m trying to use the app, but I don’t know what that translates too as my option…:

Should I just be using bleach?

We have a continual algae problem.
I know I need to SLAM, but I need some basic basic basics!

Have a Jandy VSP and using an AquaLink PDA to control it. Noticed a really strange anomaly…when the pump is off, if I turn on the lights it kicks the pump on again. Also, if the pump is off and I turn off the lights, the pump turns on again too. What gives? Is something wired incorrectly or just poor design & functionality of the PDA software? Mentioned this to the builder and he had no clue. Even searched online to see if anyone else is having this issue and can’t find any mention of it. So perplexing

I'm having a similar problem. I replaced all the water, and my TA was 300. I've used Pool Math's recommendations a couple of times, and I got the TA down to 190, and the pH is still at 8.2 (it hasn't budged). I am assuming I just need to keep adding acid day by day until I get the TA to a good range, and then worry about the pH?

thanks ahead of time