My SLAM is complete, and I'm letting the chlorine levels drop. My hardness and alkalinity are a little low. At what point should I work to balance these? Chlorine is down to 9.6 today, so I'm within target but I will try to let it settle between 7 and 8.

Last test results:
FC - 9.6
CC - 0
pH - 7.6
CH - 200
TA - 84
CYA - 84

What order should I tackle this in? Should I pump out some water and get CYA in line, and then re-test and adjust from there?
Thanks in advance to all you smart people out there! I appreciate your advice.

I'm a new pool owner grappling with the car payment sized power bill I got after running my single speed pump excessively last month. I've been doing some research into variable speed pumps, and like what I'm reading about the new Black & Decker pumps. As I understand, the Calimar pump should be the same, with the exception of the housing and included unions.

It looks like my pump has a 2" intake, but the return is only 1.5", so I assume that I'm going to be limited to a max flow of around 44 gpm. I think that running a 1.5 hp Calimar pump at around 1200 rpm will max out my flow. It looks like there may have been a split return at one point, two 1.5" pipes, but one is capped. Also, 2 of 5 jets don't have any flow, so I am assuming this is related. I believe at one point there was a Polaris vacuum that is not longer active, so possible that capped pipe is from that?

So does that make sense? Just get a 1.5 hp instead of the 3 hp and save an extra hundred bucks or so there, since my flow rate will be the main limiter and is well within the lower rpm range of the Calimar?

This is the operating cost breakdown for a 24 hr run time on the Swimming Pool Steve blog using the 1.5 hp pump.
1.5 HP Variable Speed Pump
3 Hours @ 3000 RPM / 86 GPM
6 Hours @ 2000 RPM / 55 GPM
15 Hours @ 1000 RPM / 29 GPM

1040 W/h @ 3000 x 3 = 3.12 kW
348 W/h @ 2000 x 6 = 2.1 kW Watts
68 W/h @ 1000 x 15 = 1.02 kW Watts

6.24 kW per day x $0.13 / kWh

Hey everyone, I have a question. My thermistor is bad, I have a new one on the way but it won’t be here until Monday. I noticed the pool beginning to turn green. Would it be appropriate to shock it while I’m waiting for the new part before it gets any worse?

Had some issues getting started this year and things got pretty green. The past few days I've been waking up to zero FC after dumping almost a gallon of bleach in each day. So, did a SLAM a bit ago and added 4 gallons. Anything else I should do/know to get this pool in balance?

My son turned on the pump (Pentair Superflo dual speed 1HP) with the inlet valves closed and walked away. I think it probably ran dry for two or three hours. Now, it barely moves water, and can't clear air in the pump basket. The PSI reading on the filter is 2 vs. 15 before this incident. It doesn't lose prime overnight when it is off, so there doesn't seem to be any leaks, so what do you think is the problem? Does the motor need rebuilt? Any help/advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

OK, my 1.5 HP Hayward Superpump kicked the bucket. I am replacing with the Hayward W3SP3215X20XE TriStar XE Ultra-High Efficiency Pool Pump, 2.25THP, 230/115V. Any suggestions on speeds and run times before I install it?

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Last summer my wife purchased an above ground pool, and you know what they say "Go big or go home". So now I am in charge of maintaining an Intex Ultra XTR 26'x52".
Realized relatively quickly through experience, help from the forums and local pool store associates, that my pump is way undersized and underpowered. Despite maintaining excellent pool chemical levels (tested at the pool store) the filter just can not support the pools size.
current filter info
My new mission is to buy an upgraded pool pump and filter that is variable speed which will qualify for a NH rebate that is available. If the forums have recommendations listed somewhere that would be great, because other than that I'm going to just be clicking all over the internet looking for reviews with not much knowledge as to who makes a quality/reliable pump and filter

No problem here, just a lesson, or maybe more of a PSA.

Was on vacation for 8 days and came back to still TFP clear water and FC still above target. I raised to SLAM before I left for insurance in case the SWCG or pump went out from loss of power or whatever - we had a lot of storms.

Decided I should give things a thorough brushing and also move stairs and brush behind them. Then I recalled that early in season I needed to get the stairs in for a family gathering but most of my bleach bottles filled w quikrete were developing large cracks and only had 2 empties on hand that I could refill, which wasn't quite enough. No problem, when I replaced my pool last year the guy tossed in a bunch of random freebies which included a clear container to fill with sand and weigh down a ladder. Grabbed that, filled it up and kind of forgot about it.... until last night when I decided I should inspect in addition to brushing.

Wow! And gross!

If I wasn't running hot, who knows what I may have come home to?

I have a 360 gallon “My Life” hot tub, just installed new, last October. Chemical treatment system used is the Frog. Sadly, I keep getting a nasty, dark brown sludge in my tub; almost the consistency of chocolate pudding. pH and all other parameters are in spec. The local hot tub store had us change the Frog, didn't really help. The only other chemicals ever used are the Caribbean Spa line of products (pH decreaser or increaser, Foam Free, Enzyme Plus, and Clarifier). I’ve changed the filter twice in 9 months. I’ve gone through more Frogs than I can count. Yesterday, I opened the tub and it had what looked like some sort of jelly fish goo was in the water. The last chemistry checks were: pH 7.19 (by meter), total alkalinity ~120, total hardness ~250. No actual chlorine measurements – the color strip indicates that it is spot on. It seems that this nasty brown pudding appears about 12 hours after adding pH decreaser, but, this could just be my imagination trying to find a cause. The water supply is the same as my inground pool and I have no problems with the pool chemistry. Any thoughts or ideas?

Hello everyone. I want to purchase an above-ground pool and need help deciding what brand to select. I have been searching for a salt-friendly pool due to my son having eczema and have looked at the Embassy Royal Retreat for H.I.I. of Doughboy and or the Matrix from Wilbar. I like the 54 height of the Wilbar but have found that most of the installers in my area have only dealt with Doughboy. Does anyone have any suggestions on the pool brand? My yard is relatively small, and I am looking for a 12 x 18 oval pool or a 16-round pool. I prefer an oval-shaped pool but am limited to the 12 x 18 size, and I would like it to be salt friendly.

If there is such a thing. My Cya got up to 80 and my son had a rager of a 4 of July with 6 couples who were in and out of the pool day and night over the whole holiday weekend. I was there but did not realize the bather load would drop FC so much.

Nothing too tragic but I got to the house last Friday I had some small deposits of algae in the corners and when I swept I saw some trailing dust. So up to 31 on the FC I went. Kept it there for 5 days before I passed the over night chlorine test. I don’t live at the house and it’s 50 miles away so I get up early check FC and boost. Return after work and check and add and all week I’ve lived the Pool. Yesterday the FC was stabile , the pool was clear and I’m letting the FC settle to the 11-12 range. I am hoping it falls to that level by Friday so I can balance the other chemicals and have good chemistry for the weekend. Now I’m nervous I’ll loose it next week if I don’t get me CYA down this weekend.

I’ll be pumping and filling and I just wish we had a CYA drop test. I never feel confident I’m getting this turbidity test right. Especially if it’s not sunny. And how can we put a man on the moon but not have a product to convert excess CYA in an inert liquid ?

Btw shout out to Nate at TF test kits for suggesting the larger size FC test dropper. Great idea. I used a ton this week.

I’m compiling some questions on SWG that I’ll post and I really need to stop my analysis paralysis and get this done.

Have a good night.

Our pool has been tfp-clear until yesterday. When I pulled the cover off, it was yellow-greenish. The bottom had a lot of yellow dust - the pump is running 24/7

Cya: 30
FC: 6.5
CC: 0 (maybe 0.5 - very hard to see a difference)
TA: 80
PH: 7.6

The pump is blowing out yellow clouds, too small to be caught in the skimmer sock/nylon stocking.
Could it just be pollen? And how to get rid of it when it just passes through the filter?

Hey, we've had this pool for about 6 weeks, and switched on 7/11/23 to a salt water pool (as per the plan). Over the last week, we've realized that we aren't making chlorine. So, I talked to the pool company, and set the chlorination to 100% yesterday, and even with that, we seem to not be making chlorine in the pool. The chlorine tests keep coming back blank (no color/null). The skimmers don't seem clogged, as we've cleaned them quite well over last 2 days.

Everything else seems to be ok, pH is 7.6, Alkalinity is 90, CYA is 50, Salt is 3100, Calcium is 360, water temp is 91 degrees F, pool is 24,000 gallons.

Any ideas? Thanks!

Brandie

I'd like to add automation to my pool. The different model names (Hub, PL, Logic, ProLogic, etc.) and packages are confusing. Here is my equipment:

• Hayward EcoStar 3400VSP
• Hayward LEDs
• Hayward Super Pump II (in-floor cleaning system)
• Stenner Chlorine injection pump (system should be salt generator ready)
• One Jandy Neverlube valve for skimmer and drain blending
• ClearWater Tech CD10 with onsite O2 generation (not keeping that once it breaks- may ditch now and move to salt)

I'd like access remotely from an iPhone or iPad. May add a heater one day. I'm open to a Pentair system too if it will control everything. What model do I need?

How can I change the batteries on my speed stirrer? I removed the bottom plate but the batteries seem to be held in place and I can’t move them. I am sure it is a simple solution but I couldn’t figure it out.

Hi there. New here so please tell ke if this is the wrong place. My MIL has a Hayward puresilk PS15LS system with a completely blown cell (13 years old, never replaced) ive got the system up and running except for one problem. For the life of me I cannot find a replacement cell for this system. I can't find a hayward cell or even an aftermarket knock off (other than a single shop in Australia for $700).Is this my only option or can anyone help?

Hi! We just had first water test done, at a pool store, as I wait for my TF-pro salt kit to arrive. Complete newbies to owning a pool, and still surrounded by dirt so the SWG isn’t even on yet. No salt has been added, shock added once.

Here are the readings and their recommendations. Would love any advice as I get going! How bad is this, should I be doing daily tests at the store, etc.

PH - 8.3
FC - 0.2
TA - 146
Total chlorine - 0.2
CYA - 5
Salt - 700
Calcium hardness - 239

Store recommendations
- add 441 lbs salt (not using SWG yet, so will not be adding)
- pH - add 4 lbs of Lo’N slo (I added 2lbs to each of our 2 skimmers)
- add 5 lbs of stabilizer100 (will add in 2 hours, per store directions)
- add 2 lbs of shock (will add tonight, per store directions)

does this seem like it will set us up to get back to clear water, in appropriate ranges?

Thanks so much.

My current filter pressure is 23 psi. (Hayward progrid de filter) I’m not sure if I need to backwash. I don’t remember the usual pressure but when I opened my pool it was quite dirty (I hadn’t opened at all Last summer) and maybe it already needs a backwash. Please advise. Thanks.

After a week vacation, I noticed the cover of my pump was left open. Now the only button that works is the On/Off button. I’m assuming water got on the control board. The pump still runs on the the schedule and the display doesn’t show any error codes. Any advice on how to fix this? I’m assuming there may be a factory reset option or control replacement.

New pool owner here. Water goes in pool on Friday. The pool builder has added a PowerClean TAB Ultra in-line chlorinator in our plumbing, but we also have an Intellichlor SWG. Is the powerclean needed here? I guess I am confused as to why that is included in the plumbing. I would appreciate any advice prior to the water going in on Friday. If I don't need this I want them to remove it and refund my money for it. Thanks!

Normally in mid-summer l get just a trace of CC. Adding R-003 makes just a hint of pink. I think it's the surrounding 40 foot evergreens. They're always shedding bits.

Lately with the wildfires in Canada and bad air quality, thunderstorms that drop over 1/10" seem to be associated with CC spikes up to 1.0 and an extra 2 ppm or so of FC depletion. Keeping FC at upper side of target range brings it back down to in a day or two. I don't remember this in previous summers.

Just asking... Is this pretty normal? Has anyone else seen it? Thanks.

Hi guys,

I have friends visiting the US over the summer and they might be able to bring back a Taylor test kit with them. Do you know whether there are any restrictions regarding the import of the Taylor kit K-2006C? Are the substances forbidden or anything? Obviously I don't want my friends to get into any trouble and I thought maybe one of you might know.
Thanks for your help.
zyl

My Above Ground Hayward Power-Flo Matrix Pump (Model SP15921) worked for three hours yesterday (May 28th) and now just hums when you turn it on.
Looking at the Hayward Manual it states in the Troubleshooting section that the cause may be the Centrifugal Switch is stuck OPEN but nowhere is the manual does it show the centrifugal switch. The pump is only 13 months old but warranty only 12 months. Help!!!

Hi all,

New to pool ownership.

Filled pool to well beyond half way of 9 foot side and see today its about where it was yesterday.

Not the first time, but I had a leak from multiport valve and its been 100 degrees here In OK so previously wrote it off.

On the 3 foot side, which was much higher yesterday, the skimmer basket is quite cracked (see attached).

Ive done some research and seen some recommendations but none of the skimmer basket's injuries look quite as severe.

Im afraid I dont have the proper terminology for what it is Im really looking at.

Does anyone have recommendations? any advice would be welcome.
saw someone mention A+B epoxy putty. this seems more like it might need to be filled first though?

Sorry false alarm. I got it. Sorry for the not-needed post.

Hi,

As the title suggests my pool water is reminiscent of blue cloudy Gatorade (see attached image) after a couple of days into the slam process. I‘m wondering if I should just continue to SLAM and hold the high FC level or if I should shut off the Filter and let everything settle and vacuum to waste? Not totally sure what a blue pool indicates and if the algae is still alive. Thanks for the help

I’m tired of the chemical circus and am ready to get into a weekly regimen. My buddy swears on the API Pepper, Revive, Enzyme Pro program. When my water is clear and algae free I struggle with keeping CYA up TA down (150)and I have hard water (250). I get phosphates too if I don’t treat. I have a SWG.
Just looking for ideas/suggestions.

This is my first pool. It was here but pretty much had to rennovate completely. There were no weir doors. I measure 8.25 in wide x 6.25 in tall inside the rectangle they go in. There arent holes in the box for them to hinge on. There are round tabs sticking out so the weir flap will have to have holes so these round tips can go inside the weir to hinge on. I've no idea where to get anything like this or what to shop for other than weir door or flap.

Not really a pool question, but close. I have an inground pool for about 18 years. Every three or four years I have to power-wash the concrete walkways around the pool to remove the algae / black spots etc. The stones are starting to appear. I tried using Thompsons water sealer but that did not work. Any suggestions for a sealer or even paint to use. Thanks, Mike