I have these build ups. If I address them promptly, they are soft and easily brush away. If I wait, they harden and require a stone rubbing. Some are pebble like, others are streaks. All no matter when I address them, they leave the surface smooth and white where the blemish was. They tend to return at the same spot.

My chemistry is within recommended parameters. Which chemistry should I adjust to stop theses formations?

Hello, my name is Francisco and I am from Spain. I have had a pool for 8 years and I have started to have a problem with the salt chlorinator and since I like electronics, I put my hand into it to see if it can be repaired before replacing it with new elements. I found you on Google.

I need to replace an astral pool P300 and I'm spoilt for choice and don't really know what I'm looking for. Can redo the pipework if need.

The total head is less than a meter and the pool is only 40KL so I guess I don't need a big one.

Not sure whether to go for AC or DC also - I gather AC is more reliable and DC more quiet? I'd be leaning towards AC then, unless DC is so much more efficient that it makes up for a shorter life.

Hi everyone,
Both my heat pump (TTI Fab Stratos 80) and my chlorinator (Hayward Aquatrol) show low-flow errors and stop working almost every day. I’ve tried to work around this by keeping the pump at a high speed. It primes at 3450 rpm (the maximum) and then reduces automatically to 1600. I changed it so now it never goes below 3000 but still I will look outside and it seems slow, and when I check, sure enough there is a low flow error on all the equipment. Water is crystal clear but it’s cooling off because the heat pump is so temperamental and sensitive to flow. Anyone experience something like this?
Thanks

I was about to order a CircuPool RJ 45 for our 25k gal pool and noticed that I could get an RJ60 for $10 more today. Would that work even better or should I just stay with the 45? Thanks.

I always understood the main issue was CYA build up over time and the only way to reduce CYA was to drain water and replace it.

For the last 10 years or so our pool has had a CYA of about 40 - 60 (best guess as the test is not really easy to read). We did liquid chlorine in the summer (swim season) and water was perfect and no algae blooms. In the winter we use tabs as solar is off and pool temp low. Always a little surprised each spring that the CYA wasn't higher after using tabs - but everything good.

This year we have had very high liquid chlorine usage (which is getting very expensive with the current cost of chlorine) and testing CYA it seems maybe 10 - 20 (again the I find the test very hard to read to get an accurate result).

Could we really have lost CYA like this? Pool is never drained (on a well and it would be prohibitive to try to refill) just topped up during the summer to replace evaporative loss (but the CYA should stay in pool - correct?)

Are there any more accurate CYA tests than the black dot test? A little reluctant to add CYA until I know it is really low as it will really be hard to lower it if it gets high.

Pool still looks great - but if CYA is low I guess even low levels of chlorine would be working....

Hello,

First post here. I need to respond to the contractor ASAP.

Current stairs are done. Been quoted for plastic stairs or fiberglass stairs. Plastic is cheaper. I don't know what to choose and can't find any information on internet regarding these two.

Here are the models :

ST6019B : Plastic
STP6CDP : Fiberglass

Thank you so much for help.

Hi,
Pool owner of several years, never really had an algae problem. This past week I've started seeing small algae spots pop up over night. I brush them off, run the filter. Even on areas of the liner that don't have visible spots I see some stuff (likely algae) coming off in a cloud.

My levels as of 5 minutes ago:
FC: 4.5
CYA: 45
PH: 7.6

Earlier in the week I hosed down my filter element (quad cartridge) and everything inside. This is part of my twice-a-summer maintanance. The cartridges weren't too bad.
I've vacc'd the pool once this week (going to drop the bot in this morning).
I have friends coming over later and I assume there isn't an issue with swimming.

I consider myself a relative expert when it comes to maintenance, pool knowledge, chemistry balance etc. Friends and family come to me for advice. I've sent them here to this page as well as recommended the taylor test kit. However, considering the chem levels noted above, pool is not green and is clear, considering how I am meticulous with the pool and check it every day as part of my morning routine... Kind of baffled how Im seeing algae spots. I thought it was high CYA without the proper high level of FC, but thats not the case (4.5/45 noted above). I thought it was my filters clogged of gunk, organics, algae but thats not the case (they werent bad and I hosed them down last Saturday).

I understand the recommended regime to get algae out is SLAM and process it out. But if the levels are fine to begin with, why is it happening in the first place?
Any thoughts?

For the past several weeks my Taylor Borate strips do not match the colors on the container. My color is yellow, so I was figuring I am above the 100 threshold on the back of the container. I read that maybey test strips are bad?

Any help on this subject would be great.

Owned a pool at my prior home and used the Pool Math app to manage my levels. As I recall, the recommended FC level was 1 - 3 ppm. Fast forward a couple of years, we moved and built another pool. I loaded up the app again, but this time it is calling for 3 - 9 ppm for FC.

Am I mistaken or did the recommended FC level change?

New to pools and looking to figure out what test kit I should buy. Pool will be a stonescape salt water pool.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I live in Arizona and we have a 13,000 gal. pool that has been renovated in the past 6 mos. I had no experience in pool care, we had a pool service but was not satisfied with the service. I relied on the basic test strip and Leslie's pool's test and advice and between the two methods I found the test results were not accurate. Recently I purchased the Taylor K-2005 kit, but I from what I'm reading I should have purchased an upgraded kit.

Hello,
A question regarding the correction factor to be applied at Total Alkalinity measurement in order to get Carbonate Alkalinity : does this correction factor applies whatever the measurement type for TA ?
Said otherwise, do we get (approximately) the same results for TA whether we use a photometer, test strips, drops, etc.. ?

Hi experts.

I was using my spa, heater, and air blower and the breaker on my pool pump tripped. The breaker is a 40M Siemens breaker.

The breaker seems to also feed the pentair intellicenter i8psc with the ic40 salt cell, and the screen was out when it tripped.

The equipment that was on when the breaker tripped was a mastertemp400, intellflo3 vsf (set to 3400 rpm) and a silencer air blower (model 1-632042) 2hp, 240v 4.6amp is what's written on the sticker.

Could my breaker be overloading because there is to much on this breaker. The pool is barely 2 months old and it hasn't tripped (to my knowledge) when the equipment was running before.

I am going to try to turn on each equipment independently to rule out a short, but wanted to ask you all to see what yall think of this setup.

Hey all, I noticed my waterfall wasn’t working well at low flowrates and the mortar is eroded from the edges of the waterfall. Am I ok to just use premixed grout that is sand colored from the tile aisle at Home Depot, or should I use a mortar ?

This seems simple enough, any recommendations?

Photos attached

Bought a S200 in 2018 and have been, generally, less than impressed by it. I've had to replace numerous parts - drive gear, wheel, wheel gear, inside wheel bushing, and belts. And it probably needs a new cord and filter set too.

When I first got it I was impressed at how much fine sediment it picked up. But also from the get-go the thing never really crawled up my walls and cleaned either.

Of course, the thing is 5 yrs old and maybe what I've experienced is expected as wear and tear parts. Prior to getting the S200 I had a Baracuda G3 and it did fine - but I tossed it as soon as the S200 came. While the S200 was waiting for parts I ended back up with a simple Baracuda knock-off that does fine.

For my first robot I expected more - or at least to do better than a $90 G3 knock-off.

Can I just upgrade the interface or do I need to buy a new pump? When the power goes out I have to completely redo all the settings. I'm getting tired of it and would like one that has a memory. What is the best way to accomplish my goal? TIA

Login to view embedded media I noticed this morning the pump was running but water wasn't flowing.

The waterline is high enough for the intake

I cleared the baskets in the skimmer box and in the pump

I tried manually priming by blocking the intake, opening the lid and filling up with water and closing the lid tight and unblocking the intake.

The pump immediately started losing prime again, and it sounds like the air is coming in from the motor end of the pump itself or something.

There is water underneath the pump but I'm not sure if it's leaking or just water that splashed when I was troubleshooting/priming.

One thing I did notice was salt on the outside of the motor that you can see in the video, and some on the ground where I knocked it off.

In the video you can hear the glugging as the pump loses prime, and the gurgling sound that I thought might be air coming in on the right hand side.

All the lights are green. Is it possible it is not generating chlorine? Thanks.

I have a 12-year-old LG electric dryer. A couple of weeks ago I noticed the breaker was tripped. I reset it and went along with my business. Then my wife pointed out it had done it again, and it happened to me as well. Otherwise, this thing is working like new still.

I had planned on testing the continuity and resistance on the heating element as soon as I had a day with free time. Today, while doing a quick load of clothes for a weekend to trip to CA I noticed the breaker had tripped again, but this time it occurred to me that it had tripped when not in use. it has since done it a couple of times. I check it as soon as it is done with its cycle and there is power still. then come back later to a tripped breaker.

Any thoughts here? It isn't tripping while the unit is in use. I am wondering if it is possibly the breaker that has gone bad. New house (1 year this month). Thoughts, suggestions?

Hi

I had my leisure pool fiberglass put in 2021. The model is ultimate 35


I noticed two issues this year:

1. Hairline crack at the hot tub ledge
2. Random irregular discolouration in deep water throughout the pool. It is not the water line fade because these random discolouration are in deep end . They are at least 3 discolouration I’ve discovered. The shape of these discolouration is irregular and has no well defined shape unlike water line fade.


My water is in the right ph, aklinity , and chrome level. I have SWG.

I’ve filed a warranty claim on the crack but is the discolouration normal?

New pool owner needing help. 13,000 gallon gunnite saltwater pool, filled with city water. I'm right at a year of pool ownership and have always had crystal clear water. Parameters are typically spot on but anytime there's been a minor issue, it was low chlorine or high PH and I would remedy that. Not sure if this was the cause, but I shocked the pool a couple months back and within a day or two I noticed some brown streaky stains. I tried to rub some Vitamin C on a stain on the swim deck, to no avail (rubbed a couple tablets pinched between fingers on stain till tablet was gone). Would that have been enough time? I've also tried rubbing a chlorine tablet on it... That did nothing at all. At worst, PH was arguably a little high (8.0) when I shocked it. Any advice? Thank you in advance!

Hey all. Last pool we had was 2006. Moved north but have retired and moved back south. New pool installed but we have an Ionizer. Looking for guidance on maintaining levels? Which forum do I need to visit?
Thanks.

So we had this wall outlet for our old pressure side Polaris to "click" into it. Now we have a robot which runs independently. Wanting a new cooling fountain, Skippy built one up using another Polaris wall fitting so now we're using the fountain or just allowing the line to be another "return" in the wall. The only parts not glued together are the polaris end to the PVC end, just in case we want to alter something down the road. In total cost less than $20 (mostly for the Polaris parts) and works a charm! Pool temp dropped like 5 degrees in 24 hours. I am proud of Skippy :batman:

Living in Tampa, FL and trying to enjoy a 10,000 gallon salt water pool. Air temp 95F, pool temp 94F humidity 79% and dew point 76F. After reading various threads, still trying to figure out how to get the water cooler to enjoy our new pool. The Glacier cooler seems to do well in drier climes, but evaporation doesn’t seem to work in subtropical climate conditions. So what does work…anyone figured it out?

And the verdict is ... it's just ok. Yes, it mixes the water better than my swirling by wrist but I don't really see the need for it. It was "fun" watching the cyclone in the jar. I'll keep it, use it and maybe it'll grow on me but at this point if/when it breaks I wouldn't replace it. I payed $50 for it so hopefully it lasts a while.

What I did like was the graduated cylinders in the TF100 kit, first time using that as well.

Sorry to be a downer on it's use as everyone seems to loves it.

I'm getting ready to do my first SLAM on Coleman 22x52 10.4k gallon Salt Pool. My numbers are all over the place because I've been doing partial drains/dilution to get my CYA down.

I've been fighting an algae bloom due to the extreme heat in the Southern USA

Going to get my pH bumped up to 7.2 today and start adding bleach this evening.

My Salt, TA and CH are really low so I need to get them up as well. Is it OK to correct these during the SLAM, or should I wait until afterwards (or before)???

Current numbers
FC 3.33
TC 3.62
pH 7.0
TA 27
CH 35
CYA 40
Salt 1920

Intex 16" Sand Filter
Intext Krystal Klear SWG

Hi all,

I suspect my CP3000 is not triggering my spa jet pump. The pump is inoperative when I switch it on, whereas the other two pumps (filter, slide/feature pumps) work fine. I replaced the capacitor on the jet pump, no dice. And when I run a electricity detector (this) along the power cable to the pump, it detects nothing. The fuse in the control panel seems OK. So I suspect the circuitry is not triggering the power to the pump. Any suggestions for troubleshooting that? Thanks!

I'm relaying a message from a family friend who I don't want to see taken advantage of, but without going into the pool service business as a side job I can't run over there multiple times a week to take things into my own hands either.

Long story short her pool is 23 years old and she is adamant that the cartridges in her Sta-Rite System 3 filter have never been replaced, just cleaned annually in the spring and she has otherwise had minimal issues with the pool over the years. Until this year that is; she has been battling algae all summer, has had the cartridges cleaned out a couple of times, but the people she's hired to do it just keep telling her the system is old and needs to be replaced. One guy did offer to replace the cartridges and quoted her $1000 to do so. I was shocked to learn that these System 3 cartridges are in fact $450-$500 range even if I ordered them online. With that said, the latest guy she's talked to offered to either install them for her for a fee if she ordered them, but also quoted her for a new Hayward C3030 325sqft filter setup installed for somewhere around $2400-$2500.

I have a sand filter and I've only had my pool a few years, so I have no idea if filters (especially of the cartridge variety) have a lifespan and thus is it even worse the high price of the System 3 cartridges vs replacing the entire filter?

Furthermore, would anything about old/degraded cartridges even lead to this algae problem? I think that's my biggest worry, she will go through all of this to get new cartridges or a whole new filtration system only to find the algae problem remains. Maybe the algae has taken hold in the old broken down cartridges and no amount of water flow or cleaning them is killing it? Grasping at straws.

I do hope to get over there in the next day or so to do a full run of tests, but based on her description of the water now of course I expect the numbers won't be great. I may end up just having to help conduct a SLAM by going back and forth as often as possible to get the water clean, just need to make sure I'm educated as much as possible about how cartridges react to algae and age so I can help her come up with the best plan.