Hi everyone, I looked through the forums and online but couldn't find much info and I was hoping you could help. I have 4 pentair magicstream laminars in my salt water pool and 3 of the 4 have LED lights that seem to have stopped working. The laminars still work great, but the LED lights no longer work. Is there any way to repair the laminars or swap out parts to fix them? I mentioned it to a pool company but they didnt really want to be involved, saying it would be over $1k each and that they would have to rip them out and replace everything including the wiring and that it was not really worth it (they didnt even look at them). In the one post I was able to find online I found someone saying that they got a replacement orifice kit and that fixed their light but I couldnt find much info on what that does, seem like that only controls the bubbles in the stream to make the light brighter. Anyway, any help would be appreciated, seems a bit crazy to replace each laminar when only the LED seems to be faulty (in some it's completely dead, in others it seems to be dead sometimes but then works for a few minutes before dying again)

The o-rings on my Pentair diverter valves wear out in about 6 months and then start leaking profusely. When the pool was first built, I seem to remember the original o-rings lasted about 2 years.

So, either the replacements I purchased from Captain O-rings aren't the best quality, or I'm installing them wrong, or my expectations exceed reality.
Before installing the new O-rings, I thoroughly clean the valve stem and housing, cover everything with fresh silicon lube, insert the 2 new O-rings along with a plastic spacer between them.

Any suggestions where to purchase quality O-rings, other than from Pentair that charges $6 per O-ring?

Thanks

Hi everyone,

New pool owner here. It's an older pool with two skimmers and two returns. No bottom drains. Vinyl liner. Plastic stairs. Hayward DE filter (recently back washed, pressure good), old Hayward single speed pump, and a Hayward chlorinator.

I was having an algae problem and wasn't getting long lasting results from the pool store products. Overall the pool was very clear and clean aside from the occasional green algae on the walls or stairs. I used the test sticks but they're effectively useless.

Received my TF-Pro Test Kit and started testing the water. Found the pH to be very low (not measurable with kit) and the TA to be 0 . CYA 100 or higher. My assumption is that the low pH and the high CYA was caused by the 3" chlorine pucks (trichloro?). I'm told the rain is also a bit acidic here as well. I've since switched to liquid chlorine (HDX 10%).

I remedied pH and TA with soda ash and borax. Switched off the chlorinator.

My current readings are:
FC 8.0
CC 1.0
pH 7.2
TA 70
CYA 100+
CH 100

While the numbers except from CYA seem pretty good... The pool now has very slight green/yellow with brown steps. Seems like it could be metals or organic. It does not brush off. Attached are a couple pictures. You can see the stairs and the differences in a "clean" and a "dirty" spot of vinyl.

I'm in the Northeast and the leaves are coming so I will be closing the pool within the next month. I hired someone to come out, they will follow the typical procedure. Lowering the pool water level and dilution over the fall/winter/spring will hopefully bring my CYA back in line. If not I will correct upon opening. My only unknown here is that I have a safety cover that appears mostly solid, but has a mesh center line that goes the length of the cover. I'll keep any debris off the pool cover so it doesn't break down into the pool. I'll keep the water level below that mesh for the duration it is closed with a submersible pump I'll add.

With all that said, a couple questions:

• What could be causing the brown stairs and dirty looking vinyl? Is it just excess metals?
• Knowing I have a partial mesh cover, should I add anything in particular to try to make my opening easier?

We got a new pool and it was up and running for Memorial Day. Our pool project manager taught us the basics which really screwed us up. He told us to load the chlorinator with do dichlor tabs. (Do they make tabs without CYA?) During the early days he came over often and checked levels and chlorine was always 0 so he’d load the tabs up again and told us to do the same. In a few months we had CYA of 116! Chlorine dissipates in 3 days and drops to 0. Leslie’s pool told us to get the tabs out of the pool and use the granulated calcium hypochlorite 73% and to dump in 2 16oz bags every 3-4 days. Still chlorine is back to zero by day 4. A family member steered me to this website. In the meantime I’m dumping 1 1lb bag of the above mentioned chlorine ever other day until I figure out what to do. It’s also worth noting that despite our pool manager saying new pools require a lot of acid, our ph was 7.4 everyday for the first few months so we never added muriatic acid on a regular basis until about a month ago. He never told us a thing about CYA. Water is clear and I don’t see algae. I’m keeping the ph at 7.4-7.6 and alkalinity has been 80-100 all summer pretty much. How can I stop the chlorine from being depleted?

I have an existing rebar-reinforced concrete patio. I just had an inground fiberglass swim spa installed in the yard beside the patio. All my previous inground pools and spas were surrounded by concrete and the concrete contractor took care of any bonding requirements. Because I already have concrete, I’ve decided to do a composite deck around the spa so it doesn’t look like my backyard is paved.

So, here is my question:

Do I need to at all factor in that concrete patio to any bonding considerations for the spa and its equipment?

Thanks in advance!
~Andrea

Hello, first time pool owner and first season!

So I bought a house in November that has a fairly run down 24 foot round above ground pool. It was left in total disarray, not weatherized over winter and forgotten about from the previous owner. When I first moved in, I had every intention of draining and demolishing it.

Eventually a friend convinced me to give it a shot because "when are you ever going to have a pool again" and so I found this website and started following its preaching.

Due to how bad the pool was, I completely drained, cleaned, and refilled it scrubbing all along the way. It had about 6 inches of solid tree debris in the bottom. Once full again, I backwashed and flushed the filter multiple times til it ran clean again (I did not change the sand or disassemble it). I then dosed it following pool math and only using recommended products from tfp.

We enjoyed it for awhile but I unfortunately made the newbie error of letting the fc drop to 0 two to three times in a week. After that the water was still clear but I noticed the bottom looked "dirty" so I proceeded to brush it (something I had not kept up on because I had seen any dirt or algae the whole time). After I brushed the water became very cloudy and the next day it started to turn green.

I discovered then that the ph had risen over 8.0 (I had limiting testing) and so I dropped the ph and prepared to slam. After slamming at 18-20 fc for a week I backed off as the water wasn't green anymore but still cloudy (didn't know about oclt yet). After that, the same thing happened again. Brownish dust, brushed and back to square 1. Ph shot up, green returned.

I have slammed again trying to be more diligent. I have brushed and vacuumed everyday as well as netted and cleaned the pool filter basket.

I started the slam last Thursday (8/24) and did an oclt test last night. I brought the pool to an fc of 12 (fell out of slam) and in the morning at 6am it was at 11. My cc is .5 or even lower as the reagent barely Reisters when added.

The issue is the pool is cloudy but has no color and I still see this Dang brown dust at the bottom! It can't be vacuumed , I have a poolblaster max with sand filter and it runs right through it and out the vents.

Fc 8
Cc .5 or less
Ph 7.6
Ta 60
Ch 30
Cya 50

13000 gallon pool, sand filtered, on liquid chlorine by hand. Probably get 4-5 hours direct sunlight. Does have a large tree partially overhead that drops debris fairly consistently (net every day for the most part).

Only anomaly I've found was I noticed I dosed for 10 fc last night and when I checked before bed it was 12, then 11 in the morning. Not sure if my cya is off? My previous test was 40 but last night showed 50 despite me not adding anything.

Any advice for me would be much appreciated!

Hi folks.
Thanks for welcoming me on your board. I've been reading many of your posts over the past few months during my 14'x'28' steel wall inground pool installation which have been extremely helpful, so thank you. I am about to wire up my Pentair Superflo VS 1.5 HP pump, and just wanted to get a sanity check on my wiring. I have a double-pole, 20 amp GFCI breaker to provide 240v to the pump. Looks like I just need to run three 12 AWG wires to the pump. Two wires will both be hot wires from each side of the breaker, and then one ground wire.
Appreciate any help in advance.
thanks
Marty

Hi Everyone,

Need some help... I have 3 PAL Pool lights that just stopped working. The pool is only 2 years old and I've tried everything I can think of to fix the issue.

Thanks again for any assistance.

John

We have a Polaris robot for the main pool, but this vacuum isn't able to get the spa, pool steps and all ledges around the pool. I've tried frequent sweeping to try and get the main pool filters to help out, but this isn't really being successful. The spa is really bad, with all of the turns on the bottom of the spa. Anyone found something that can work for these hard to reach areas? Thanks!

Hello, we will be converting to salt next spring.
We received our first quote for roughly $3000...the truth is, I can directly order the same system for half the price as what they are charging. I have little confidence, however, that we can install it ourselves. Outside of a pool company, who do you reach out to to help with install in order to save some money? I estimate we can save about $1000 by not using the pool company.
Thanks!

Currently on day 7 of our new pool PebbleTec start up. We’re in Phoenix with hard water. I haven’t tested our fill source yet.

I’ve noticed our calcium hardness had gone up a small amount the last two days from 250 to 275. This is out of range for PebbleTec’s start up recommendations of 150-250 but within range for TFP.

Should I lower this to the manufacturer standard? I don’t want to ruin my new finish but also don’t want to stress about keeping it in a range that it doesn’t have to be in.

Im trying to finalize coping and deck materials on a fiberglass build with swcg and I’ve considered most of the materials at one point or another. I thought I was set on travertine coping and sundek, but I really don’t like the look of sundek. I started researching travertine for coping and decking and peoples‘ experience seems to be all over the place regarding durability and degree of slippage. I found a few threads regarding artistic pavers, specifically shellock Pavers. This product seems to check all the boxes for me: Durable, cooler to touch in full sun, non slip when wet, looks good, fairly easy to install. I really like the product’s ability to have the coping bullnose on multiple edges to allow for a finished look to spa and wall tops. My tentative plan is to have a concrete deck and install the pavers on top of the deck. There is not a lot of current information on the boards regarding the artistic paver brand. Does anyone out there have any personal experience or insight to this type of coping/decking system?

Hi all, it’s been a while since I’ve posted, been slammed with work. I have a question that’s perplexing me and haven’t been able to find sufficient data from other sources to support my theory so I thought I’d post it up here and let those smarter than me chew the fat and hopefully provide an explanation….or just call me crazy!

-25,000 gallon Pebbletec pool - pebble tech was installed 10 years ago and pebble is in very, very good shape for its age
-Historically chlorinated with trichlor - I just converted it to SWG after some coping and tile work necessitated a fresh drain and refill. The homeowner described his annual issues briefly touched on in the next point, and called me in to balance his water which lead to deeper discussions and ultimately the conversion.
-Homeowner historically “took care” of the water himself with the help of Leslie’s. Always fought mustard algae late in the season due to CYA overdose, and was sold loads of phos free to mask the real issue…CYA levels that were stupid high even by their ”reports”.
-Homeowner never balanced calcium hardness, but did address PH and Alk as best he could with pool store advice.

Prior to conversion I tested the water and made minor adjustments to PH and Alk to bring them to spec. Hardness tested out at 128 ppm. By the math 40 pounds of calcium chloride should raise to 300 ppm target. 4-5 days after the initial dosing when I was testing the water at conversion time the hardness came back at only 178 ppm.
I’ve not seen this before excepting 2 other pebble pools where hardness historically had never been addressed by the homeowner. In each of those cases it took multiple doses over subsequent periods of time and finally calcium reached the desired level, but with a significantly higher volume of calcium chloride than what the math would indicate should be necessary.

So my postulation is that over years of neglect of hardness levels, the water had been leeching calcium from the pool’s surface. Subsequently, when I dosed to achieve appropriate calcium levels in the water, the pool‘s surface that had been having its calcium leeched began leeching the calcium back out of the water. When the surface ultimately reached its desired calcium saturation after leeching it out of the water from multiple additions of calcium, the testing reflected it and no further additions were necessary as I achieved the desired target.

Is this what is actually happening or is there some other issue at play chemistry wise? I can find plenty of data on over saturated water depositing nodules on the surface, but not finding much on the converse where the surface may pull it from the water to satisfy some demand. Thoughts are appreciated.

I am finally out of the startup phase. Questions on going forward, what should be my next steps to prepare for salt?

I’m thinking should I put the swg in now or wait until next year since it will be getting cooler weather, thoughts?

My ph has drifted up to 8 but I bring it down to 7.8, 7.7, 7.7-7.6 puts my lsi and csi negative. I had to keep it higher due to low TA. Should I increase my TA to give a buffer and if I add salt, this will put my csi negative. I also need to increase my CYA as well.

I am stuck on what steps I should be doing. I didn’t realize my ph drifted up that high, I was mistaken by the acid demand thinking it was dropping it to the next tier below. I plugged it into pool math and realized that wasn’t the case.a full acid demand is dropping it more than .4

Hello, new member here seeing that there are some experts that are active in helping with Pentair automation PCB boards. I bought a house with a dead intellitouch a couple of years ago and now I'm wanting to get a control board back online without paying for a new setup. Now that I finally pulled out the boards, the Part Number 520078 board appears to be the source of the problem with clear damage to what looks like a Board-to-Board 80 pin connector. I am looking for some help with the following:

• Identifying the component/part which appears to be an 80 pin, 4 row board to board connector approx 62-63mm in length. So far I haven't been able to find something that matches this. I'd like to see if I can desolder and replace
• Any other advice from folks that have worked on this board. Is it likely that the whole thing is shot and I am wasting my time?
• I don't want to buy a $2300 current gen product to do this. I'd rather go homegrown with a raspberry pi or something of that nature. I was hoping to fix my intellitouch and then use one of the homebrew R Pi setups that sit on top of the easytouch/intellitouch.

Picture attached. Appreciate anyone that has any input!

Hello All - Moving to a little place just west of Phoenix and will be building a pool starting (hopefully) in a few months. In escrow right now with contingency so no exact date, but soon. I'd like to get the build done this fall (2023) and be in the pool by next swim season.

As of right now, I'm planning on going the Owner/Builder route to save a few bucks and to get better control of the schedule. I've been hearing outrageous amounts of money and time to get this done by a pool builder around here. (2yrs, $60 k) and I just think I can do better.

Background - I am a retired Home Builder from SoCal, with a strong past in the swimming pool trade since the 1970s. Had a C-53 builders license myself and did some builds but mostly remodeling. So I have, errr had the knowledge to do this, but it's been 30 years since I was around pools and I know the industry/materials/equipment/etc has changed a lot.
But a pool is still a pool, right?

I'll be checking out the posts and getting some background knowledge and then asking a lot of question (I apologize in advance I'll appreciate all help and guidance!

I have 2 questions on calcium hardness (CH):
1. When testing, you are looking for a change from red to blue. There is usually an initial change to blue, but with tiny red droplets still suspended in the water. Usually adding about 3 more drops will get the tiny droplets to disappear too. When do you stop counting?
2. PoolMath shows my CH out of range. Recommended is 250-650, and Ideal is 350-550. Depending on how I count (see #1) I am at either 230 or 260. I've previously been told here to not worry about CH of 250. This seems low to either range (recommended or ideal), and has been consistently low... should I be trying to raise CH? If so, what is a recommended product?

Thanks!

I currently live in Spain. I have a 5X10 m pool with a zodiac sals system. I recently drained it and had it completely regrouted. Now there is A LOT of black mould or algae appearing on all surfaces of the pool. I have been brushing it vigorously and eventually I can clear a lot of this away, but it reappears faster than I can brush it. I also feel that I am possibly or probably brushing away the grout with this. I have added MORE salt and this doesn’t appear to help. The water now tastes noticeably of salt. I don’t know if my salt cell is working efficiently or not. the salt system is approximately 3 years old. I do not cover it often during the sunny season. I am seeking ANY help or advice here. The PH fluctuates between 7.2 and 7.7 at the moment. Has anyone got any advice for me to try ? Thanks in advance

This year I’m saving $300 (and every year hereafter). I have all the parts I need (blower, modified pentair pump lid, plugs, gizmo, etc.) but I wanted to ask this up front.

1. Our pool company always filled the floating cylinders with pucks. I assume it was TRI-Chlor or something (probably not ideal). If I stay with pucks (I have two floaters), which ones do you recommend? Or just bring pool up to SLAM with liquid and throw the floaters away?

2. Do I need to drain pool below the skimmer?

3. I’ve never brought the salt cell inside and my cell is operating perfectly (and zero calcium scale in it, just checked last week!). Do you recommend a dummy cell or can I leave well enough alone?

4. I need help with order of operations from my MPV. When to connect gizmo, when to do main drains, when to pull pump and heater plugs, etc.

#4 is clearly where I need guidance

Thanks again, as always, for the help!

Hi all,
I’m new to SWG world and could use some help. Here are my numbers taken from Taylor Kit:
FC: 4
Cc: 4.5
PH: 8
Alk: 110
CYA: 77
CH: 200

When I go to Leslie’s they are reading my TA as 62…So I read the post on TFP about SWG, CYA, and TA/PH relationship. The post says the following:

“In practice the concentration of the cyanurate ion is pH dependant where at a pH of 7.0 it is 22% of the CYA. The percentage increases with pH where at a pH of 8.0 it is 36% of the CYA value.”

Questions:
1) I don’t understand what this statement means. Can someone explain?
2) Should I be dividing my TA when CYA is higher? The article states the Pool Math app adjusts for CYA but it’s telling me my ALK is too high.
3) How do I lower Ph and raise ALK? Do I need to?
4) can someone explain how borates would help in this situation?

TIA

New pool owner here… after performing a weekly water test with the TF Pro kit and putting all the recommended chemicals in yesterday, my family and I went swimming today. After about an hour in the pool we noticed a green line on the steps at the water line. Apart from that, the water is crystal clear. I’m guessing I need more chlorine?

So I have a family member who I am helping rehab a large inground pool. I don't think this has been open for 10 years. The fiberglass is shot and has delaminated from the concrete. The sidewalls are blistering. Given the scenario I think it could be a lot worse. The plumbing all seems to be in order. The pump works well and I installed a new filter.

Does anybody recommend a company that will work on this pool?

EVERY SINGLE local pool company has said they are not interested in working on this pool.

There is one option for sure and that is tear everything out and lay new fiberglass and finish the fiberglass with epoxy or another coating.

Are there other options? Skim the concrete and paint with epoxy or another coating?

Any help is much appreciated.

I live in New England and are planning on getting an above ground pool for the summers. Before I start purchasing everything I wanted to make sure I did not miss anything for maintenance along with getting the correct chemicals needed. Listed below are all of the items I plan on purchasing and please let me know if something is overkill or if I missed something:

• 18ft x 52in Intex Pool
• Side Mounted Skimmer
• Pool Filter Sand
• Chlorine Floater
• Pool Vacuum
• Brush and Skimmer Net
• Taylor K-2005 Test Kit

For the Chemicals, I went through the Pool School and think I have all of the chemicals needed but wanted to be sure:

• Liquid chlorine (Raise FC)
• Muriatic acid (Lower PH)
• Borax (Higher PH)
• Arm and Hammer baking soda (Higher TA)

Do I need Stabilizer and Pool Shock as well?
Also do I need the Chlorine tablets in the floater if I use liquid chlorine?
Do all of the chemicals mentioned above come separately or are there some that come together (Example: Arm & Hammer Clear Balance)

I appreciate any guidance that can be provided
Thanks

Hello all, I have been taking care of my pool for about 2 years now and for the most part its been fine. I deal with some scaling and algae blooms here and there but nothing has gotten out of hand. This year the blooms were starting out pesky so I took some water in to test at Leslie's. My CYA level was 140 and last year it was 100. I made the mistake of continuing to use trichlor tabs in my in-line chlorinator. I have since learned I can simply stop using that method and just use liquid chlorine or cal hypo until my CYA levels come down. I know dilution is the best solution for this issue but I would have to drain half of my pool so wanted another option. I first used yellow treat in July of 2021. I bought a single 2lb container and used around 2/3 of it a on a couple treatments probably within that year. All of 2022 I do not believe I used any. This week I used the rest which was around 10oz or so which was the rest of it. I then decided to implement the No Mor Problems into the mix of which I did a total of 17oz after the initial treatment and then a single maintenance dose. All of that being said, I have read a lot in the forums about the sodium bromide issue turning into bromine. My first question is based on how much I just added, what would my current PPM be for bromide/bromine in the pool (17,300 gallons)? Also, although sodium bromide is not recommended, I have a big CYA problem and my FC demand is pretty high. At this point is it either dumping tons of chlorine in my pool or risk building a bromine load that will never dissipate aside from a total drain? The blooms are gone for the moment and im sure the sodium bromide did the job. However, I don't want to cause more problems. It seems clear to me that the initial reason for my algae blooms not going away was my CYA level was so high that my normal amount of cal hypo I was using was not getting me to super chlorination. Anyways, I am looking for some good alpha on if my pool water is toast or if I can simply wait it out for the CYA levels to drop and the bromine to dissipate. Thank you!

After having an above ground pool for two years, we finally decided to have a pool built. We are trying to be very budget friendly but everything is so expensive here, we got several quotes ranging from 60k-130k.

The bad? We have a tiny yard and decided to build essentially a pool covering our whole yard. Initially we were going to find a new home with either a pool already build or more land, but with interest as high as it is and having a 1.95% loan currently it just does not make sense to move.



Initial contract sign, May 2022, permits took a long time and did not come back until sept.




Some info from our builder:

JOB DIMENSIONS:
POOL:

• MAXIMUM LENGTH: 28'
• MAXIMUM WIDTH: 15'
• AREA (SQ/FT): 420’
• DEPTH: 3 ½ ” to 5’ or 6’

SPA:

• MAXIMUM LENGTH: 6’
• MAXIMUM WIDTH: 6’
• AREA (SQ/FT) 36’
• DEPTH: 3 ½”
  

BAJA STEP:

• DEPTH: 18”

STEEL REINFORCING:

• STEEL REINFORCING TO MEET LOCAL ENGINEERING CODES.
• EXPANSIVE SOIL SCHEDULE.
• #3-REBAR, 12” ON-CENTER STRUCTURAL STEEL
• FOUR #4-REBARS IN BOND BEAM CONTINUOUS AROUND PERIMETER INCLUDING
  SURFACE SKIMMER (EXPANSIVE SOIL DETAIL)
• REINFORCING STEEL TO BE ELEVATED TO A MINIMUM OF 2” ABOVE SOIL BY
  CONCRETE SPACERS TO INSURE DISTRIBUTION OF GUNITE. (STEEL SECURED BY HEAVY DUTY TIE WIRE)

• PLUMBING WILL MEET ALL BUILDING AND HEALTH DEPARTMENT REQUIREMENTS
• ALL PLUMBING LINES WILL SCHEDULE 40, 200-PSI PVC PIPE. 2 1/2” ON RETURN LINES
  AND 2” ON SUPPLY LINES.
  
  
• ALL EQUIPMENT WILL BE BONDED WITH GROUNDING WIRE TO SWIMMING POOL
  STRUCTURE STEEL.
• SUPPLY AND INSTALL ALL NECESSARY JANDY THREE PORT VALVES
• CONCRETE PADS FOR EQUIPMENT SETTING
• ALL SWIMMING POOL EQUIPMENT TO BE SET 50’ FT. FROM POOL.
• ALL PLUMBING WILL BE PRESSURE-TESTED THROUGHOUT CONSTRUCTION TO
  INSURE LEAK FREE PLUMBING TO COMPLETION.

POOL:

• 2 - SAFETY MAIN DRAINS
• DUAL PORT SURFACE SKIMMER
• 1 - AUTOMATIC FILL LINE

SPA:

• 2 - SAFETY DRAINS
• 3” CIRCULATION LOW WATER SHUT OFF
• 6 JETS

EQUIPMENT Hayward:

• HEATER 400K BTU
• CIRCULATION PUMP 2 HP
• CARTRIDGE FILTER 560SF
• HAYWARD LIGHT (2 Ea.)

MISC:

• DEDICATED POOL VACUUM SUCTION PORT.
• BAJA SHELF WITH ONE UMBRELLA HOLDERS.
• THREE FEET OF PAVER AROUND THE POOL.
• ENTRY WALL REPLACEMENT:
• TO ADD 18” RAISED SPA
• UNDER COPING OVERFLOW DRAIN OUTLET
• COPING: POURED IN PLACE NATURAL GRAY CONCRETE COPING.

Hi guys,

My pool heater was giving an IF error earlier this season after firing and then shutting down multiple times. I replaced the flame sensor and this seemed to fix things.

A little later in the season, it wouldn’t fire at all, so I replaced the Ignitor and she started working again.
It has quit again, and is giving an IO error, so I have pulled the ignitor and it is covered with buildup and debris. It looks like rusty metal all attached to it.

The screws that hold both the ignitor and the flame sensor in are rusted and rotten to the point where I can almost not use them.

I am frustrated and am debating just getting a new heater, but I bought this one in 2018, so it really isn‘t that old.

I did run my pool for a whole winter during Covid so the heater was essentially on 24/7. Maybe I burned through it’s useful life during that winter!

Any help or advice would be appreciated!

So I have had my pool dialed in for a couple months since finding this website. So about 3 weeks ago I had the two cracks repaired (some of you already know that story). fast forward to 4 days ago and while brushing the typical dirt of my ledges (I dont have grass yet from new home construction) some of the "dirt" would not brush off. I jumped in the pool to see what was up and it appears that its small rust spots. Its all over the two areas that were repaired including on the top edge of my pool that doesnt have water and on my concrete.

i know the dust from grinding was thrown all over those general areas and not cleaned up very well. My first assumption is that the grinding wheel used had metal in its composition and was thrown everywhere and has started reacting with the water from my pool and the rain.

does anyone have any ideas on what this could be?

I was trying to think about this. Does the size of the pool have an effect on your daily chlorine loss? I would imagine the same bather load would affect a smaller pool more, but does loss from the sun change with pool size? I ask because I have a small 8000 gallon pool, and I lose between 3-5 ppm per day. Generally around 3.5-4, which seems a bit high. OCLT is passed, and no other issues. Other people talk of only losing 2 ppm per day, and I’m never that low so far this summer.

I have always used a Loop Lok solid safety cover the past 5 years of owning my inground pool. Last year I had the concrete replaced and I really do not want to go with the anchored type cover. So I have been looking at different winter covers. I have a few questions for everyone that has one or has knowledge about them.

1-Can I place the pump I used for my solid cover on a winter cover to automatically pump the water off when it rains?
2-Can I close my pool as I did with my solid cover(add polyquat, blow out the lines, and drain the sand filter)? I understand that I cannot drop the water down as low as I did in the past.

Any additional info or suggestions on brands would be great also.

Hello
Does anyone currently use the pool sync app? If so I’m curious as to what the heart symbol does on the app? It can be turned on and off.
Thanks