I'm getting the no flow signal on my Jandy Aquapure model "APUREM". The sensor indicator module is flashing green for sensor flow.

The sensor was replaced at the end of last season when it was doing the same thing.

Filters are clean, pump is running at 2700rpm.

Getting more than frustrated with this. Is it another bad sensor?

I'm probably going to need to replace the single speed pump I have. How would I go about figuring out what I would need for a replacement.

My specs are:

• Inground 17K gal, outdoor uncaged crystalcrete (yr 2002)
• 1 1/2 HP pump Hayward Super II pump
• Hayward 1750C cartridge filter
• Hayward SwimPure SWG
• No autocleaning --- Southwest Florida so it runs all year

The cartridge filter and SWG are still working fine. I plan on talking to a few local pool service companies but want to have a little more info when I talk with them.

I was at a pool store and got a general quote for around $2K installed (setup, pvc switch, power hookup, etc.)

Hey all, we just had our pool finished last week and are thrilled. We have three kids under 5 so opted for an automatic cover. During the build process the contractor mentioned the great thing about the cover is closing it up often for the kids safety, keeping it clean, pool chemistry, heat it easily, etc. When the service company came out to do our pool school, he mentioned to be careful with the cover, that if it’s closed and the chlorinator keeps running where it’s normally set, there’s nowhere for the chlorine to go and it will get to a “dangerous” level to swim in. He said to cut down or off the chlorinator if closing the cover. Just wanted to see if anyone here has more guidance on that and if it’s something we should be doing/concerned about? Thanks so much!

I finally got my SWG up and running now battling what percent to set it to. I know with an autocover, the percent should be set lower. So seeing if anyone has a good gameplan that works for them. Thanks!

Hello;

I'm a new pool owner and pool construction was completed very late in the season last year. I just opened the pool this morning and things actually look pretty good. Needed to add some water so i was running pump on main drain to get the water moving through the filter and vacuumed and brushed all day. Started testing the water this evening; needless to say there is no chlorine in there so i'll start adding liquid tomorrow until water is warm enough for SWG.

Here are some of my test results:
TA - 120
Cl - 0
Ph - over 10
Calcium Hardness - 300

When i plug into pool math, i'm told to lower Ph with Muriatic Acid to also lower TA. My question is how much muriatic acid should i add at one time; I assume pump should be running and test until i get Ph down to 7-7.2?

Thanks very much for any advice you can offer. Hopefully my details/equipment is showing in my signature, but let me know if any questions.

Tony

Hi! I'm in suburban Detroit and just got a hot tub (Jacuzzi J225). I've had a hot tub before and I can do math, but I have some questions. So here I am!

Good evening all,

I have a 24’ round 54” deep Saltwater 8000 from pool factory running an Aqua trol RJ SWG. I am having issues with my SWG, and not sure if it is the cell or the board. Either way I know I’m about to drop some money on something for the SWG. I am an automation specialist so the itch I have now is to make the pool control more visible and better fine tunable via a mobile app. Not sure what I should do or get, but my end goals are to monitor whatever chemical reading and salt readings, monitor and control pump usage, and modify the run/stop times for the pump. I would also like to monitor and adjust the SWG with whichever system I decide to go with. Thank you in advance for any advise and all advise is greatly appreciated.

Hi,

I recently wanted to get take care of my own pool, someone recommended TFP and I have to say I’m so happy and so greatful for this. After having an IC-40 salt generator installed getting the TFP 100 Kit with the C-600 and smart stir. I analyzed the water several times, the CYA was around 140 so I had to replace about 85% of the water. Right now the numbers are looking really good, trying to get the PH down but I think that'll be a never-ending battle. Thanks for all the information and knowledge.

The IC-40 is working well, but unfortunately the installer (who was recommended by Pentair) didn’t connect it to my Easy Touch. He said I didn’t tell him to do it and he wants to charge me $175 to connect it. I have been looking and it appeared to be a fairly easy job, just need to connect 4 colored wires from the power center to the Easy Touch. However, as I was looking into it, I realized there appears to be a circuit breaker for the IntelChlor that I’m missing. I’m contemplating at 3 options:

1. Pay him the $175 to do it.
2. Is the circuit breaker necessary? Because the terminals where the wires would go into the ET already have wires in, so there’s already power there.
3. Since the IC-40 and the power center already has power and it’s up and running, can I just connect the yellow and green wire where they go and leave the others connected as they are? If so, do I need to remove the green wire that is connected at the moment?
4. Any other option I can’t think of?

The motherboard:


The IC-40 Power Center as it is set up right now:


The inside of the Easy Touch with indications of where the wires from the IC-40 Power Center are connected to right now: (the wires come in thru the second slot left to right at the front).


Thanks!
Roger

Hi, was wondering if anyone out there could help us (new pool owners/older pool) figure out which lines are running from the pump to filter.
We have three handy valves.
1 has a two way split (believe that these would correspond to the skimmers)
And a pipe (believed to be the drain) is located just north of the split.

Follow up question: should the drain remain closed while the running in filter mode?

Hi all, we purchased a house with an inground pool this past fall/winter and I've been reading up on how to manage myself as a maintenance company seems like it will get very cost prohibitive very quickly.
Some background: Our pool is inground with a vinyl lined interior, with an estimated volume of about 23K gallons. Our inspection report of the pool was largely very positive, with a few caveats to note. I wanted to ask the group to see if these caveats are pool novice DIY friendly, or if I should proceed with having a professional group open the pool to triage these problems:
- Use of chlorine tablets, with a few found in the skimmer at the time of inspection, which is not recommended. The return line has a chlorine tablet feeder as well, which I've read mixed reviews about on the forums. Wondering if I should abandon this feeder and move to liquid chlorine for the pool exclusively, and if so, does the tablet feeder have to be removed?
- "Mounted on the house is the breaker panel for the pump. The breaker is of the proper amperage but should be a GFCI style breaker." - Understand this is something that should probably be replaced (much like GFCI outlets in bathrooms/kitchens), but is it a pressing fix?
- "Currently, the wire from the pump motor is not secured properly to the bond wire running to the deck. This needs to be corrected." - Would be happy to send a photo if it would be helpful to better understand this issue.
- "There is a single light in the east wall of the pool that appeared to be a fiber optic pin light. I did not observe a light tower to which the optic strands would be attached." - Is there a way to try and diagnose this myself?

Thank you in advance for any and all advice!

Brad

Getting my pool up and running went to put my filter plug back in and the threads were stripped. Last fall removing the plug was a pain in the butt I think the threads got filled with dirt as they extend into the filter body. I was hoping to use Teflon to seal it but there's hardly any threads left not sure if it'll work. I still have warranty for a few more weeks not sure if this is something that would be covered? I also know warranty can take weeks and weeks to get resolved and I really want to get my pool going. Doing some searching on the forums doesn't seem like gluing's a good option but wanted to see if there was some good way for a temporary repair?

Ok after several years of delays and planning Im close (I hope) to ordering my heat pump (nat gas and propane not an option). I have decided to go with an Aquacal model SQ145 for the following reasons:
1) it looks to be very quiet as it is located about 8 feet from the pool deck
2) Has RS-485 that will talk with mt Pentair automation.
3) on the higher side for COP (4.2-7.1).
4) Has a very low PSI increase 2 PSI at 45 GPM other I have seen are 8-10 PSI this will translate to lower pump speeds
5) Available from a local dealer so hopefully support will be good if needed.
6) only needs 6" clearance in rear it needs to fit close to my house (I know more is better but space is tight)

Does anybody have this model or a similar one and what are your experiences?

I plan to do the install my self

I have attached my plumbing diagram does this look ok am I missing something. I have a SWG so I don't think I need a check valve? Also I do want to be able to isolate the heater so included a couple 3 way valves. I also may automate one of the valves to bypass the heater is there any down side of only running water through heater in use? I assume it will put less stress on the heater. I am toying with using one of the 3 way valve to provide a method to drain the pool using the pump. I also don't think I need any sort of flow bypass when my pump is at max speed( I never run it there) the flow tops out 76 GPM the max rated on the heat pump is 70 I assume the added flow restriction of HP and new plumbing will bring it down below 70 and don't ever plan of running the pump at max speed anyway.

The cardboard on the ground is the approximate size of the heater.

Hello, everyone. My saltwater generator (SWG) is displaying a low salt reading and to inspect the cell error. I conducted a sodium chloride test and got a reading of 3200, while the SWG showed 2500. I've never experienced calcium buildup on the cell when I go to clean it and I clean it at least twice a year. The pool isn't used very often, especially after September, and it's usually just me using it. Is it time to replace the SWG?

I need to replace my aging Polaris 280 and was just looking at the Makhoon cleaner on Amazon. It seems to be similar (though there are some differences, like having four wheels instead of three) and it's half the price.

How do the two cleaners compare?

This looks pretty good to me..

Greetings,
I have a pool with two skimmers. They join together into one line. One of the skimmers sucks air. Therefore, I have to shut the valve to that skimmer for the pump to prime and maintain. If I try and open that one skimmer valve, the pump sucks air.

I’m confused where it would come from Since the skimmers merge together into one.

It is skimmer number two. I have vacuumed the pool recently, but the is skimmer number one.

Any suggestions?

Just replaced an old seized pump with exact BRAND NEW kind from Century and got the dreaded "humming not running" issue and went thru all typical culprits of capacitor function, voltage, free-turning impeller, etc - no dice. While removing starting capacitor on back of motor noticed the wire was pinched between the capacitor and motor housing grounding it out! Freed the wires and BOOM! Pump now running great.
Just wanted to post this in case anyone else out there is banging their heads like I was for a while.
Gonna drop a note to Century to revisit their quality control, too.
Pic below showing where wires pinched.
Happy swimming.

I had a leak in my in ground pool over this past winter in the shallow end that emptied that section. This resulted in stretching the liner in spots and creating wrinkles. How should I safely stretch this back in place?

My water chemistry is balanced fortunately, but I’m curious to know what the protocol should be.

On my old single speed, I’d run it overnight and continue to SLAM until clear.

Also, is it true you shouldn’t run a VSP at max exceeding 4 hours?

Can someone help me. I have 4 glowbrites on a transformer and landscape lights on another different transformer. I want to control the two sets of light independently do I wire the same relay separately or use a totally different relay. Basically does the relay differentiate between the two inputs on the same relay?

I currently need a way to have my backwash flow further away from my walk way. I currently have this at the end of my backwash pipe: Amazon.com.

What do people normally attach to the 1 1/4” opening? Flexible hose?

Aloha TFP,

I just moved into my new home and I am trying to understand my pool equipment. I was told the booster pump, which was for vacuuming and bubbler fountains is inoperable. The previous owner left a quote to replace the pump for $2,700. I was hoping that it might be possible to diagnose the problem and save myself some money.

Among other things left in the garage was a Hayward pump. I do not know if it is operable/repairable.

Is there any advice on troubleshooting and diagnosing my pumps? Thanks in advance.

Replacing the sand in my filter. How a few questions:

1. Someone said to check some part of the filter that could be broken and could lead to excessive loss of sand during backwashes. What am I looking for?

2. S200 body o-ring broke. S200 manual says part is: SX200Z7.

I found it here: Amazon.com but the only review says it does not fit the S200.

I found a similarly affordable item here: SX200Z7 O-ring Replacement Fits Hayward Seamless Sealing S200 Series Sand Filter | eBay

And how big is the diameter supposed to be exactly? I don't see any specs on this particular item. I can get these two items for free:

...so if all items fit, I'd rather get one of the above items.

Which should I get?

3. How clean do I need to get the filter before filling it up with sand? It's getting difficult scooping the rest of the sand out at the bottom (using a plastic scoop to avoid damaging any of the filter's plastic parts).

4. Any other service/inspection steps I missed? Going to use Amazon.com that someone on here suggested to install the o-ring (when I get it).

Last year while closing I noticed air coming around the plugged returns then found they could be just pulled out fully. I hadn't had to do that in previous years. I was curious did some glue just finally wear out? What are these called?

They basically just were pushed into the returns and came out without too much trouble. The eye threading can unthread from them too.

Thanks!
Daum

I'm looking for input from experienced persons. I am thinking to build a crush and run 20 x 20 + feet min. base for an eighteen feet dia. AGP. Do I need to construct a containment suround for the crush and run? The area is low ground and hard as rock. Rain water tends to stand untill it evaporates. The ground is level except for 1 foot from the edge on one side is about 4-6" low, so I want to level up to an overall 4" min. Base for the pool. I'm thinking the crush and run will compact solid and keep the pool above water and be a strong sustainable base.. Any rain or pool splash over will run off.
Thank you in advance for your input!

I have a 2.7HP Jandy Pro VS pump that runs the water features on my pool (i have another pump that is pool circulation pump) that isn't working properly and I'm not sure where to start with troubleshooting it and if it's something i can do or if i need to get someone to do it for me.

My VS pump runs bubblers i have in a shallow tanning deck area and 5 or 6 sconces. Lately it's been hit or miss when i turn it on whether there's any water moving through the system. Sometimes it works fine and other times there is very little flow and it basically stops. The pump turns on and i hear the motor running and i can tell when it changes speeds (i run higher rpm when both are running together vs. only running bubblers). I'm not sure if the issue is with the pump or could be a blockage somewhere or how to test if the pump is failing.

My pool and pumps are 5 years old and i first started noticing problems last summer when we put in a heater/chiller and upgraded to an RS-8 from an RS-4. Everything seemed fine up to that point, but we had to reprogram everything with the upgraded controller and the output on the sconces didn't seem to be as much as it was before we added the equipment. When i am running the sconces and bubblers together, i had to set the pump at 3400rpm to get the flow rates i wanted and the max on the pump is 3450 rpm. A couple months ago when the freeze protection kicked on, there was basically no output from the bubblers or sconces, but a couple weeks ago when i turned it on, everything was running fine. I turned it on again yesterday and there was nothing coming out of the sconces.

I could have the guy that installed the heater/chiller troubleshoot it, but it's a pretty hefty trip charge and i feel like he's going to tell me i need a new pump and i'd rather have someone else look at it for an independent opinion. I'm still wondering why the issue showed up when we installed the heater/chiller and whether it had something to do with that or was just coincidental.

GM! I’ve been doing SLAM for 3 weeks now. I can see bottom of pool and passed OCLT although not crystal clear so keeping at it. Pump pressure steady at 5, return from jet feels the same, and no one has been in the pool to adjust the direction it’s aimed. BUT my water has stopped rotating. How is that possible? Anything I can check? I’m at a loss. Thank you!

TA 180
PH 7.2
CYA 50
FC 20
CC 0

I’m redoing some drainage and a fence, which may require moving this stray waterfall return pipe (left of image) and I was considering cutting away the concrete that the builder embedded the rest of the plumbing. But I see this bond wire running into the slab. Is bonding that common? I may decide not to open the can of worms and just route my drainage around the line return.

For those with SWG, how much do you increase your SWG percentage from winter to spring to summer

During the last 2~3 years, every April I started to notice a coat of yellow/green algae at my pool surface. I followed up with a SLAM and enjoy clear water through most of the months before spring next year.

With chlorine cost going higher, and that I put in a robust APEX P60 4 months ago, I am wondering if I could get by just run the P60 at 100% for say 10 days (which I believe can raise FC to above10ppm, and maybe even >15ppm).

Since I had to do annual slam, I am good as long as cranking up the Chlorinator to 100% for 10 days and ramp down after that can buy me clear water for 10 months.

I think SLAM using liquid chlorine will cost me well over $100.

Thanks!