Indoor, in ground pool high combined chlorine

IntelliFlo VS-3050 models

The IntelliFlo VS-3050 can operate from 400 RPM to 3450 RPM with preset speeds of 750, 1500, 2350, and 3110 RPM.

The pump can be adjusted from the control panel to run at any speed between 400 RPM to 3450 RPM for different applications.

The IntelliFlo VS-3050 can communicate with an EasyTouch, IntelliTouch or SunTouch control system or the IntelliComm communication center via a two-wire RS-485 connection for remote speed control.

The RS-485 communication cable is included with each pump. The EasyTouch and IntelliComm provide the ability to remotely control the IntelliFlo with four preset speeds.

The IntelliTouch can be configured to use eight speeds with the IntelliFlo VS-3050.
 
Setting the pump preset speed.

IntelliFlo operates using one of the preset speeds. Use the speed buttons to select the preset speeds.

To set the pump speed.

1. Ensure that the pump is powered on and the green power LED is on.

2. Press the desired speed button (1- 4) for less than three seconds to select the preset pump speed.

When the selected speed button is pressed, the LED is on. The pump preset buttons and speeds are:

Speed 1 button - 750 RPM

Speed 2 button - 1500 RPM

Speed 3 button - 2350 RPM

Speed 4 button - 3110 RPM

3. Press the Start button to start the pump using the selected speed if necessary.

Adjusting the pump speed.

IntelliFlo can be adjusted to run at any speed between 400 RPM and 3450 RPM.

To adjust the pump speed.

1. Ensure that the pump is powered on and the green power LED is on.

2. Press the Start button to start the pump if the pump is not running.

3. Press the UP/Down button to increase or decrease the pump speed.

• 10 RPM increments: Press and quickly release the Up/Down button to

increase or decrease the speed in 10 RPM increments.

• 20 RPM increments: Press and hold the Up/Down button to continuously

increase or decrease the pump speed.

4. Saving an adjusted speed: To save the newly adjusted pump speed, press and

hold the desired speed buttons to assign the current speed.

Four new pump speeds can be assigned to Speed buttons (1-4).

5. Press the Speed button that is assigned to the adjusted speed.
 
Let the water mix a while then
Do all the tests & post your results.
Fc
Cc
Ph
Ta
Ch
Cya
Ph in the 7’s & adequate fc are the immediate priority.
Depending upon the ph you may be able to utilize some of the dichlor you have to kill multiple birds with one stone (lowering ph, adding fc, & adding a touch of cya)
We’ll just have to see where you land.
I wouldn’t get rid of your bulk liquid chlorine punch card just yet.
You’ll still want to pass all 3 end of slam criteria before calling it good. Hopefully this exchange will make that easier to accomplish.
Pool filling guy added 4 loads of 3500 gallons each today (the 4th load he said he probably had 500 gallons or so left in his tanker once the pool was full). So we added 13.5k gallons. This was with draining the pool so the shallow end still had around 10” of water in it. He says usually 2 loads are needed to fill a deep end like this pool and bring it up to the shallow end (so another 7000k gallons). So he is fairly certain the pool is larger than 17k gallons—his math puts the pool at 21k gallons. It’s 18x36’. Shallow end is 3.5-4’ deep and deep end is almost 6’ deep. It’s a sport pool so there’s shallow ends on both sides and the middle is deep.

I’ve had the pool pump running since he got it filled up on highest setting. Been around 5 hours since he finished. The pool temp is now 63F so that’ll take 5 or 6 days to get back up to 85F with the geothermal heater I suppose.

Tests as of now (I haven’t added any chemicals since he filled it):
FC 0ppm
CC 1ppm
CH 75ppm
TA 60ppm
CYA 30 (or less, I could still see the dot in the CYA tube when it was full).
pH 7.2
Chlorine from the comparator block: 1ppm

Should I wait for the pool to warm up before adding more liquid chlorine? Or start that now to help prevent any algae or anything from starting to grow. How much should I start with? Another 4 gallons of 12.5% and see where I land?
 
Pool filling guy added 4 loads of 3500 gallons each today (the 4th load he said he probably had 500 gallons or so left in his tanker once the pool was full). So we added 13.5k gallons. This was with draining the pool so the shallow end still had around 10” of water in it. He says usually 2 loads are needed to fill a deep end like this pool and bring it up to the shallow end (so another 7000k gallons). So he is fairly certain the pool is larger than 17k gallons—his math puts the pool at 21k gallons. It’s 18x36’. Shallow end is 3.5-4’ deep and deep end is almost 6’ deep. It’s a sport pool so there’s shallow ends on both sides and the middle is deep.

I’ve had the pool pump running since he got it filled up on highest setting. Been around 5 hours since he finished. The pool temp is now 63F so that’ll take 5 or 6 days to get back up to 85F with the geothermal heater I suppose.

Tests as of now (I haven’t added any chemicals since he filled it):
FC 0ppm
CC 1ppm
CH 75ppm
TA 60ppm
CYA 30 (or less, I could still see the dot in the CYA tube when it was full).
pH 7.2
Chlorine from the comparator block: 1ppm

Should I wait for the pool to warm up before adding more liquid chlorine? Or start that now to help prevent any algae or anything from starting to grow. How much should I start with? Another 4 gallons of 12.5% and see where I land?
Add enough fc to reach 10ppm and test in 30 minutes.
Was the cya sample cloudy at all?
 
Add enough fc to reach 10ppm and test in 30 minutes.
Was the cya sample cloudy at all?
I’ll have to add and test tomorrow. The CYA black dot started to disappear by the time I got to the top if that’s what you’re asking? But the solution wasn’t what I would call “cloudy” in and of itself.
 
Well I couldn’t wait so I added 4 gallons of 12.5% bleach.

40 mins later, the FC is 5ppm, CC is 2.5ppm. This is the first time since I got this pool that I’ve had a FC level significantly higher than the CC level. I added another 4 gallons now. Will see where we are tomorrow.
 
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Here’s what the effect of your dose should have been using the updated volume
IMG_8591.png
If on the cya test the dot started to disappear then it was slightly cloudy. This could mean cya is anywhere from 10-30ppm. This means slam level is either 10 or 12ppm. I understand your desire to move this along but dosing much higher than slam level is potentially risky. A better method would be raising to slam level (10-12ppm) more frequently (every 30 minutes) until the fc begins to hold. Similar to the ammonia protocol.
 
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Here’s what the effect of your dose should have been using the updated volume
View attachment 545398
If on the cya test the dot started to disappear then it was slightly cloudy. This could mean cya is anywhere from 10-30ppm. This means slam level is either 10 or 12ppm. I understand your desire to move this along but dosing much higher than slam level is potentially risky. A better method would be raising to slam level (10-12ppm) more frequently (every 30 minutes) until the fc begins to hold. Similar to the ammonia protocol.
Sounds good. I’ll do this when I get home.
 
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Some updates.

Tested today when I got home from work:
FC 2ppm
CC 0.5ppm
Added 1.6 gallons as per PoolMath and tested 40 mins later:
FC 7.5
CC 1
Added 1 gallon and tested 1 hour later:
FC 9.5
CC 1
Just added 1/2 gallon and will test again in 30ish minutes.
 
Some updates.

Tested today when I got home from work:
FC 2ppm
CC 0.5ppm
Added 1.6 gallons as per PoolMath and tested 40 mins later:
FC 7.5
CC 1
Added 1 gallon and tested 1 hour later:
FC 9.5
CC 1
Just added 1/2 gallon and will test again in 30ish minutes.
Next test after 30 mins:
FC 10.5
CC 0.5
Added 31oz of bleach. Will test again in 30 mins.
 
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Latest test:
FC 13.5
CC 0.5

So the 13.5ppm FC is higher than the SLAM level of FC, but I still got a tinge of pink when adding the reagent to test for CC which cleared completely with 1 drop (hence 0.5ppm CC).

What do I do now? Should I do the OCLT? But I still have 0.5ppm CC. But I’m at SLAM level FC so I shouldn’t add anymore liquid chlorine now right?

Or suggest waiting an hour and retesting? Thanks for all the help.
 
CC is only one of the three exit criteria for the SLAM Process.

Maintain the process until all three exit criteria are satisfied.
 
Up to you. Since it seems to be holding somewhat at 30 minutes I am curious what waiting an hour or so will reveal. Then call that one the final test of the night & rise before the sun in the morning to test again.
Since you’re a bit unsure of your volume currently (& what exactly you should expect from your doses)
the oclt is your best gauge of where you stand (even if you don’t expect to pass) although the cc reduction is very promising!
For the oclt & slam entirety be sure you’re uv/ozone is off as to not introduce more variables. (I think we already covered that but wanted to cover all the bases)
 
Up to you. Since it seems to be holding somewhat at 30 minutes I am curious what waiting an hour or so will reveal. Then call that one the final test of the night & rise before the sun in the morning to test again.
Since you’re a bit unsure of your volume currently (& what exactly you should expect from your doses)
the oclt is your best gauge of where you stand (even if you don’t expect to pass) although the cc reduction is very promising!
For the oclt & slam entirety be sure you’re uv/ozone is off as to not introduce more variables. (I think we already covered that but wanted to cover all the bases)
Oh yes I’ll unplug my UV. The pool company thinks the UV bulb is burnt out, but they aren’t sure. To eliminate variables I’ll unplug it now. I’m test again now. And again early in the morning.
 
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