Indoor, in ground pool high combined chlorine

[i_intub8_u]

Oh yes I’ll unplug my UV. The pool company thinks the UV bulb is burnt out, but they aren’t sure. To eliminate variables I’ll unplug it now. I’m test again now. And again early in the morning.

Last night before going to bed (1 hour after last chlorine addition)
FC 12
CC 1
Tested this morning at 6am
FC 7.5
CC 1

The UV is unplugged, pool cover is on and it’s indoors. So the contaminant is still using up the FC. But at least it’s not plummeting to 0 like before.

I added enough chlorine this morning to bring back to SLAM level. I’ll keep adding chlorine. I figure I’ve got to be getting close to oxidizing out what left of the old contaminant, right haha?

 

[JamesW]

For an indoor pool, I think that UV would be useful.

You can install a power monitor to see if it is actually working.

I would leave it off unless you get CCs and then turn it on to eliminate the CCs.

I would recommend a water treatment system for the well water.

I would want to know for sure exactly what is in the water.

Maybe contact a University lab and ask them to run a complete analysis for you for free.

I am sure someone would be willing to do this.

 

[Mdragger88]

Remove the cover during the slam. It traps cc’s. You don’t need any more help with that lol.

 

[i_intub8_u]

Last 2 tests last night were:
FC 8
CC 1
Added chlorine back to SLAM level.
Next test:
FC 12
CC 0.5
Now I won’t be home until Xmas day. Hopefully it’ll be warm enough to swim for my nieces and nephew by Xmas day. It started at 62F after filling, when I left last night it was up to 74F.

 

[JamesW]

Updates?

SLAM complete?

 

[Mdragger88]

 

[i_intub8_u]

Updates?

SLAM complete?

Well when we got home on Xmas, the FC was 0 and CC 0.5.

I added to SLAM level again and then we were gone for Xmas parties. Checked this morning was FC was again 0 and CC was barely 0.5.

So it still seems to be consuming FC at a pretty fast rate. It should be safe for the kids to swim today. I added enough chlorine to get FC to 5ppm for today so they can all swim.

 

[JamesW]

I would get a SWG installed and use that to provide a continuous level of FC.

UV would be nice to turn on as needed to address any CCs that are generated.

I would only use UV when the CC level got to 1.0, or higher, and then turn it back off after the CCs got to 0.5 or 0.0.

I would put the UV before the SWG cell.

 

[i_intub8_u]

I would get a SWG installed and use that to provide a continuous level of FC.

UV would be nice to turn on as needed to address any CCs that are generated.

I would only use UV when the CC level got to 1.0, or higher, and then turn it back off after the CCs got to 0.5 or 0.0.

I would put the UV before the SWG cell.

I’ve been researching SWGs. This one looks good to me and seems to have good reviews on TFP and the internet.
Circupool Core 35

CircuPool CORE-35 Salt Chlorine Generator | Discount Salt Pool

www.discountsaltpool.com

It looks very easy to DIY install as it’s just one piece that needs to be plumbed. And just plugs in with a 110v standard NEMA 5-15 plug. I want to oversize as recommended so I’m thinking either the 35 or 55. My pool is around 20k gallons. This one seems to only allow gradations in 25% power increments though.

Or do I go with this:
Circupool Edge 40

CircuPool EDGE-40 Salt Chlorine Generator | Discount Salt Pool

www.discountsaltpool.com

This one has more granular control on % power output but more complex install.

Or do I go with a Pentair Intellichlor 40 and power center? My Intelliflo pump has last 14 years 24/7/365 (pool open year round indoors). But seems like this would be twice the price as the Circupool SWGs. But do their salt cells last much longer than the more “value” branded Circupool?

Any advice for my specific pool as you can see it has a high chlorine demand (at least now it seems).

Also I hooked up a KillAWatt to my UV system and it’s reading 0watts when it’s supposed to be on. So I’m thinking the bulb must be burnt out. Or the system is broken.

Thanks!

 

[Mdragger88]

Well when we got home on Xmas, the FC was 0 and CC 0.5.

I added to SLAM level again and then we were gone for Xmas parties. Checked this morning was FC was again 0 and CC was barely 0.5.

So it still seems to be consuming FC at a pretty fast rate. It should be safe for the kids to swim today. I added enough chlorine to get FC to 5ppm for today so they can all swim.

Re Check during the day today to ensure fc stays above minimum for your cya so it stays safe for swimmers.

 

[ajw22]

Get an RJ60+ or an Intellichlor IC60.

You need all the chlorine generating you can buy.

 

[Mdragger88]

I’ve been researching SWGs. This one looks good to me and seems to have good reviews on TFP and the internet.
Circupool Core 35

CircuPool CORE-35 Salt Chlorine Generator | Discount Salt Pool

www.discountsaltpool.com

It looks very easy to DIY install as it’s just one piece that needs to be plumbed. And just plugs in with a 110v standard NEMA 5-15 plug. I want to oversize as recommended so I’m thinking either the 35 or 55. My pool is around 20k gallons. This one seems to only allow gradations in 25% power increments though.

Or do I go with this:
Circupool Edge 40

CircuPool EDGE-40 Salt Chlorine Generator | Discount Salt Pool

www.discountsaltpool.com

This one has more granular control on % power output but more complex install.

Or do I go with a Pentair Intellichlor 40 and power center? My Intelliflo pump has last 14 years 24/7/365 (pool open year round indoors). But seems like this would be twice the price as the Circupool SWGs. But do their salt cells last much longer than the more “value” branded Circupool?

Any advice for my specific pool as you can see it has a high chlorine demand (at least now it seems).

Also I hooked up a KillAWatt to my UV system and it’s reading 0watts when it’s supposed to be on. So I’m thinking the bulb must be burnt out. Or the system is broken.

Thanks!

The larger the cell the less you have to run it so the longer it will live.
Based on your new assumed volume of 21k gal
The core 35 is stated to produce 8ppm fc/day (same as the ic40)
And the edge 40 states 9.7ppm/day
These have been known to be a little overstated by circupool.
Both outputs should be plenty in your situation (indoor pool) & should allow you to run it at a low % around the clock but bigger is better.

The edge replacement cell is a bit cheaper than the core but has a little shorter warranty. The upfront price of the edge is dramatically lower.
The only “extra plumbing” needed for the edge is a flow switch which is really not a big deal. You can certainly add a cord cap to the power cord to plug into your existing outlet they’re about $5 at the hardware store.
You do want to ensure that if the pump is off the swcg won’t have power either so we recommend that you use a timer that is synchronized with your pump run time.
I have a plug in timer that both my swg & pump are plugged into (110v) but you can add a timer to power your 220v pump & the swg. The swg can also use 220v.
The main thing plumbing wise is to be sure you follow the instructions about where the components need to be placed. A quick check of each one’s manual will help you determine where that is on your plumbing.

 

[i_intub8_u]

Just finished swimming for the past 3 hours. Tested now and got

FC 2.5
CC barely 0.5

Will have to do Overnight chlorine test later this week as we will be gone again for the rest of the week.

 

[JamesW]

You can probably do mostly maintenance now with the FC.

Hopefully, most of the contaminant has been diluted or oxidized.

Definitely one of the stranger problems of all times.

I have only seen a few cases with similar contamination that required the pool to be drained and refilled.

The contamination was never identified.

 

[JamesW]

Just finished swimming for the past 3 hours.

Any irritation or smell or other noticeable water quality issues?

 

[i_intub8_u]

You can probably do mostly maintenance now with the FC.

Hopefully, most of the contaminant has been diluted or oxidized.

Definitely one of the stranger problems of all times.

I have only seen a few cases with similar contamination that required the pool to be drained and refilled.

The contamination was never identified.

I’m still waiting for the lab to try to identify the contaminant in my well water.

 

[i_intub8_u]

Any irritation or smell or other noticeable water quality issues?

No. Everything seemed great. No smells, itching, coughing or anything.

 

[Mdragger88]

Before leaving I would raise fc to slam level & put the cover on (since you do have some windows) if no one will be there to dose the pool for you while you’re away.
If you aren’t quite registering 30ppm cya you could also float some pucks to help maintain the fc while you’re gone so long as your ph can handle it.
You don’t want the fc falling below minimum & having to fight algae when you return.

 

[i_intub8_u]

Get an RJ60+ or an Intellichlor IC60.

You need all the chlorine generating you can buy.

Thanks for the advice. I’m checking into a quote for an Intellichlor 60.

Here is the return leg of the plumbing after the pump, filter, heater, UV. It’s the 33.5” section of pipe I have measured in the picture. As you can see it’s very low to the ground now, ipr basically sitting on the ground. The pipes are all 1.5” diameter schedule 40 PVC.

I don’t have any hot tub or water features (for now, thinking of a hot tub in the future).


The vertical section coming from the UV outlet might also work as a place to put the SWG?


Any advice on a DIY install of the Circupool units? The Core on the horizontal leg seems like it wouldn’t work because of how far down the salt cell sits.

 

[ajw22]

A vertical installation of a SWG may work best for you.

Remove the UV and the tab chlorinator.