Guys quick question cause I forgot. My water is hovering around 60-59. Goes up in day down at night. I have the cell set to 10 percent so I got the blinking lights. That is low output mode correct? But shouldn’t the cell Darn off if water hits 59? Could I damage the cell keeping it on now of water is below recommended temp? Should I just shut it off and add liquid now till I close?
Winter ic40
- Thread starter jimim
- Start date
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,861
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The cell should produce down to about 52°. Pentair's ICs have an array of lights and a somewhat confusing key as to which light means what, blinking or otherwise. Sometimes indicating one of several things. You'll need the owner manual for your model to dicipher the lights, as some of the functions have evolved with newer models. I believe the model number is on the bottom of the unit.
Or if you post the model number and exactly which light or lights are blinking, someone here might know. "I got the blinking lights." isn't quite enough to go on.
If it's only the five Sanitizer Output LED Indicators blinking, that indicates your 10% setting (produces chlorine for 27 seconds of each 5 minute period).
The other clue is the 2850 salt indicator. As the temperature drops, the IC's ability to measure salt does too. Plus, that measurement is only good to ±500ppm on a good day. Either can trigger its low-salt warning, and/or cold water warning, which might be what you're seeing (though those warnings are a solid red light, not a blinking one, at least on my model). You need a true test of the salt level before you decide to add more. I use the Taylor Salt Test Kit (K-1766) for that.
Some of the lights blink during its initial startup process, too. So you have to wait for a few minutes when you first turn on the SWG for the lights to indicate anything meaningful.
Or if you post the model number and exactly which light or lights are blinking, someone here might know. "I got the blinking lights." isn't quite enough to go on.
If it's only the five Sanitizer Output LED Indicators blinking, that indicates your 10% setting (produces chlorine for 27 seconds of each 5 minute period).
The other clue is the 2850 salt indicator. As the temperature drops, the IC's ability to measure salt does too. Plus, that measurement is only good to ±500ppm on a good day. Either can trigger its low-salt warning, and/or cold water warning, which might be what you're seeing (though those warnings are a solid red light, not a blinking one, at least on my model). You need a true test of the salt level before you decide to add more. I use the Taylor Salt Test Kit (K-1766) for that.
Some of the lights blink during its initial startup process, too. So you have to wait for a few minutes when you first turn on the SWG for the lights to indicate anything meaningful.
Last edited:
Jim,
On the new cells, when you go to 10% or below the % lights will blink... When the water gets too cold for the cell to work at all, it will turn on the cold water light and the cell will shut off. The only light that will come on after that is the cold water light.
Thanks,
Jim R.
On the new cells, when you go to 10% or below the % lights will blink... When the water gets too cold for the cell to work at all, it will turn on the cold water light and the cell will shut off. The only light that will come on after that is the cold water light.
Thanks,
Jim R.
I knew about the blinking low output lights. What I didn’t realize is it will produce down to 52 degrees. I forgot that number I thought it was 60 degrees.
What I didn’t know was once it hits that low temp of 52 degrees can I damage the cell by leaving it on but I think you guys answered that question?
What I didn’t know was once it hits that low temp of 52 degrees can I damage the cell by leaving it on but I think you guys answered that question?
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,861
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The SWG will just stop producing, no harm. Some folks leave them like that. Others replace the whole unit with a dummy cell and store it inside for the winter. I leave mine in place and disconnect it electrically so it doesn't power up.
Amazon.com: Pentair 520588 Dummy Bypass Cell Replacement Pool/Spa Sanitizer and Automation Control Systems: Garden & Outdoor
Amazon.com: Pentair 520588 Dummy Bypass Cell Replacement Pool/Spa Sanitizer and Automation Control Systems: Garden & Outdoor
www.amazon.com
Thanks man. I remove mine in the winter and have the dummy cell. Ok so I can just leave it on till I close pretty much. I’ll just keep an eye on my chlorine levels.
