Will Draining Water Help With Algae?

What were the CCs for the overnight?
CC has remained 0 throughout the whole process. There were 2 tests where the water was slightly pinkish, so I guess I could consider those results 0.5, but again that only happened twice. Every other test has been 0.

But always be mindful that PM doesn't know what your daily loss is at that point in the season.
What's the best way to determine my loss? Test in the morning, then say in the evening after a high UV day, high swimming day, etc., and calculate the drop? Based on my SLAM results so far, my loss each day is around the 2-4 ppm range. I'm going to need more LC! Thankfully, I should have a SWG installed later this month.
 
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What's the best way to determine my loss? Test in the morning, then say in the evening after a high UV day, high swimming day, etc., and calculate the drop?
Yup. Or figure out the difference tomorrow. You won't lose any overnight now that the organics are gone. Well done BTW. :)
 
To figure out my current daily use, after my slam I let fc get down to my mid target one morning then dosed to 12 and tested 24 hours later next morning. I'm currently at about 5.5 loss a day so Inmake sure every morning I'm at 6 or above and dose to 12 so I know right now I'm never below target.
 
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Just confirmed with another test: FC = 18, CC = 0.5.

The water level has gone done with some backwashing and evaporation, so I may need to refill about 2 inches. I’ll keep watching FC levels after adding fresh water (if I decide to do so).
 
This was a great thread and example of why TFP is awesome.

You are now able to track and manage a healthy pool with accuracy. There are no magic potions or solutions that substitute common sense processes and proven cost effective methods.

You have experienced the “trouble” part of pool ownership now you can be “trouble free” with simple tactics and just a little more daily effort and attention. The best part is that it also saves you time and money.

I may have missed it but did you get the Swg installed?
 
I may have missed it but did you get the Swg installed?
Not yet. I hope to get that done before the end of the month.

What sort of chemical adjustments should I take into account before installation and after installation? I think CYA is supposed to be adjusted a tad, and possibly some others.
 
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What sort of chemical adjustments should I take into account before installation and after installation?
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test before raising the CYA significantly.

Test CYA and Salt to get baselines and aim low before creeping up on the target.

You will shift to operating in the high 7s for PH instead of the low 7s but it will get there on its own.
 
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test before raising the CYA significantly.

Test CYA and Salt to get baselines and aim low before creeping up on the target.

You will shift to operating in the high 7s for PH instead of the low 7s but it will get there on its own.
Thanks! And just to confirm, I would increase from a previous CYA target of 30-50 up to 70-80, correct?
 
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I tested again this morning, and overnight FC loss was again 1ppm. So with 2 nights in a row with a 1ppm loss, clear water with no algae, and CC at 0, I think I can safely say that I’ve completed SLAM!

I decided to test other chemicals too. Here are the results:
  • FC: 15.5
  • CC: 0.0
  • pH: 7.6
  • TA: 60
  • CH: 70
  • I haven’t done CYA yet - I’ll do that later today with more sunlight.
Anything I should address first? Pool Math says that everything is ok, except for the high FC which I suspect will fall on its own over the next 2 days. I may refill 1-2 inches of fresh water, so that may lower FC even faster.
 
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pH test is invalid when FC >10.
Anything I should address first? Pool Math says that everything is ok, except for the high FC which I suspect will fall on its own over the next 2 days. I may refill 1-2 inches of fresh water, so that may lower FC even faster.
Fill water will not reduce FC much. Sun will.

Go Swim!
 
Just to clarify on my new FC target: Pool Math says my ideal range is 3-7ppm with a target of 5ppm. If I lose roughly 4ppm FC per day due to sunlight, swimming, etc., does that mean realistically, my range should be 7-11ppm with a target of 9ppm? I imagine those are loose numbers and subject to change based on use of the pool, sunlight conditions, other environmental factors, etc., but for the most part, I should aim for around 7-11ppm FC levels.

Just trying to avoid any more algae blooms and need for SLAM.
 
Just to clarify on my new FC target: Pool Math says my ideal range is 3-7ppm with a target of 5ppm. If I lose roughly 4ppm FC per day due to sunlight, swimming, etc., does that mean realistically, my range should be 7-11ppm with a target of 9ppm? I imagine those are loose numbers and subject to change based on use of the pool, sunlight conditions, other environmental factors, etc., but for the most part, I should aim for around 7-11ppm FC levels.

Just trying to avoid any more algae blooms and need for SLAM
Yes. You can join us on #TeamRunHot

What is your CYA?
 
Just to clarify on my new FC target: Pool Math says my ideal range is 3-7ppm with a target of 5ppm. If I lose roughly 4ppm FC per day due to sunlight, swimming, etc., does that mean realistically, my range should be 7-11ppm with a target of 9ppm? I imagine those are loose numbers and subject to change based on use of the pool, sunlight conditions, other environmental factors, etc., but for the most part, I should aim for around 7-11ppm FC levels.

Just trying to avoid any more algae blooms and need for SLAM.
Great. Now you are thinking like a pool owner!!!!. You never want to dip to minimum. We like to call it ”running hot” especially in the summer when your FC is affected by so many things such as swimmer load, and UV. Target the high end of the range.
 
does that mean realistically, my range should be 7-11ppm with a target of 9ppm
Bingo. PM means well, but doesn't know your daily loss. It's a moving target. You adjust the target as needed to remain free and clear of minimum. :)
 
#TeamRunHot
Joining Welcome Home GIF
 
I just ran another CYA test (the first one since refilling the pool and going through SLAM). I followed the recommendations here and when testing the water and black dot visibility, I filled the small tube to the 60 line and checked, then 50 and checked, then 40 and checked, then 30 and checked. To my surprise, the black dot was visible the entire time. It was certainly blurrier at the 30 mark vs. the 60 mark, but still visible.

Does this mean that my CYA is now below 30? Should I plan to add stabilizer now that I'm done with SLAM? Is a good target 40 ppm?
 
Does this mean that my CYA is now below 30? Should I plan to add stabilizer now that I'm done with SLAM? Is a good target 40 ppm?
Yes. I would add 20ppm of chlorine stabilizer using sock method. Wait 48 hours AFTER it dissolves and test again, sometimes it takes a while to circulate (ask me how I know). Once the sock hits the water, target your FC for 40 CYA.

40 is a good target to start. 50 and 60 are fine too. I wouldn't be afraid of them (50/60) to reduce FC demand. I would "creep up" on 50/60 with 10ppm additions after the initial 20. Always wait 48 hours after dissolving to test.
 
Yes. I would add 20ppm of chlorine stabilizer using sock method. Wait 48 hours AFTER it dissolves and test again, sometimes it takes a while to circulate (ask me how I know). Once the sock hits the water, target your FC for 40 CYA.

40 is a good target to start. 50 and 60 are fine too. I wouldn't be afraid of them (50/60) to reduce FC demand. I would "creep up" on 50/60 with 10ppm additions after the initial 20. Always wait 48 hours after dissolving to test.
Ok thanks. Since I’m getting a SWG soon, it’s ok to be on the higher side of CYA, right? Isn’t the range slightly higher with a SWG?
 
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