Why should I transition to salt?

My goal is cost and hassle.
A 60K unit will produce about $6200 worth of liquid chlorine for you, if purchased at Walmart (10% jugs @ $5.67 + tax).

Even with the 1st cells controller and install costs, (roughly double the cost at $3200) you'd have to be buying bleach at half Walmarts cost to break even. Which you aren't so the SWG is cheaper.

*even if it was even cost wise* the SWG convienence is hands down miles and miles better. But it's cheaper too.

Replacement cells only turbocharge the costs savings in your favor, plus the miles and miles of convienence.

The only time the switch doesn't make sense is if there are no funds available to invest. All the math and convienence in the world won't make the funds available to spend.

If you have the funds, it's a no brainer on every level. :)
 
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Essentially, yes.

The salt in the pool is never really used up - the Chlorine is broken out of the salt (sodium chloride) and then eventually recombines in the pool returning back to salt.
I'm not a chemist, its a bit magic really, but that's basically the way it works :)

The Salt Cell of the SWG has some fancy materials that allow for that Chlorine to be broken out of the salty water by the electricity.
Over time, those fancy materials erode/corrode/wear out, and the cell loses effectiveness.
The cells are rated in # hours @ 100% power - so you could think of it as basically a big jug of chlorine...it's just the chlorine is really stored in the pool in the form of salt, and you 'activate' it by electricity.
You may need to top up the salt occasionally (like maybe a bag or two once a year to account for rain dilution etc) - but salt is about $6 for a 40lb bag.

If you are spending $500 a year in LC, an SWG WILL be cheaper just about any way you slice it.

Here's a quick post-it-note calculation assuming you use $500 of LC a year.

I'm going to figure 100 gallons of 12.5% - that's about 833ppm over the year, or 2.5ppm/day
Assuming you went with the Circupool RJ-45+

$1200 initial outlay
15000 hour life @ roughly 4hours /day required to produce 2.5ppm = 3750 days, or 10 year life
Replacement Cell is $694 - so cost per PPM of Chlorine is essentially $0.07 - versus 12.5% at $5/gallon = $0.60 ;)
(I'm sure @Newdude will check my numbers!!)

So your initial investment would be paid off in basically 2.5 seasons - your cost would then essentially drop to about $70/year (not counting electricity which is fairly minimal)
And, you've just future-proofed your chlorine cost - if chlorine goes to $10/gallon...who cares? :)

Fantastic and super helpful! Now I'm better understanding the idea of comparing it to a "jug of LC."
 
Heres a picture of a basic setup. Almost any brand will look similar.

The controller box is in the blue circle. The cell is installed in the plumbing line (red circle). The cell is designed to wear out with time. The controller will hopefully last you through a number of replacement cells.

Theres always the possibility that something goes wrong and an expensive investment doesn’t last with either component. But the members on this site overwhelmingly love their swg’s and find them well worth the money
 

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Even with the 1st cells controller and install costs, (roughly double the cost at $3200) you'd have to be buying bleach at half Walmarts cost to break even.

Side note about install costs. If you have basic PVC plumbing skills and connect electrical wire to a timer box/breaker panel the install cost could be very small with some fittings, glue, and gasoline to go to the hardware store 8 times in one day.
 
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Side note about install costs. If you have basic PVC plumbing skills and connect electrical wire to a timer box/breaker panel the install cost could be very small with some fittings, glue, and gasoline to go to the hardware store 8 times in one day.
LOL 8 times in one day. Sounds about right.

I'll have a pro install it the first time for sure obviously since I'd also be swapping out the pool pump and whatever else is needed when something dies to require the switch.

Is all that you described needed to replace just the cell for a new cell? If it's truly easy, I might do it myself. In past years, I've done enough DIY home renos and repairs for my lifetime, so if it even looks to be a minor pain in the rear, I will hire someone. :cool:
 
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LOL 8 times in one day. Sounds about right.

I'll have a pro install it the first time for sure obviously since I'd also be swapping out the pool pump and whatever else is needed when something dies to require the switch.

Is all that you described needed to replace just the cell for a new cell? If it's truly easy, I might do it myself. In past years, I've done enough DIY home renos and repairs for my lifetime, so if it even looks to be a minor pain in the rear, I will hire someone. :cool:
My cell hasnt died yet but i do take it out over wintertime. It just unscrews and has an electrical plug. If you can pump your own gas, you can replace a salt cell. I think someone wrongly scared you on needing to do it every 2 years.
 
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Replacing the cell was 10 minutes from couch, to porch, to garage to unbox, to equipment pad, unscrew old SWG and screw new one in, pop in power cord, to garbage can to throw out old cell and cardboard, back to couch.

It might have been 8 mins. It's as easy as it gets to swap when the time comes. :)

and gasoline to go to the hardware store 8 times in one day.
If using Home Depot, add 8 trips to 6 Home depots in 2 counties, and 3 Lowes's. Because you needed 4 items. I hate them both with the fire of 1000 suns. :ROFLMAO:
 
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So your 8 trips to Home Depot will be to fix what you paid him to screw up the first time!!!
LOL I hear ya. I would call him back to the job! The guy I have in mind is pretty good and fair. He's done a few repairs for me in the past with no issues. But yeah, whenever I get a salt cell will also be when I'm getting a new pool pump, etc and I just don't have the know-how (nor desire haha) to learn and install that myself. :)
 
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LOL I hear ya. I would call him back to the job! The guy I have in mind is pretty good and fair. He's done a few repairs for me in the past with no issues. But yeah, whenever I get a salt cell will also be when I'm getting a new pool pump, etc and I just don't have the know-how (nor desire haha) to learn and install that myself. :)

To be honest, other than the PVC cement, everything I needed for the SWG was in the box. I literally measured the distance the cell + fittings needed, cut the existing pipe, cemented in the new unions, waited for to dry, screwed the cell in, connected it up, turned it on.

I had a little extra work because of where I wanted it, but really was a no brainer.
 
The one other thjng to consider that hasn’t been mentioned is pump run time. You’ll need to run your pump for a long period to give the swg time to work. If you’re on an old single speed pump that could get expensive. They make a lot more sense with a variable speed which will run low speed 24/7
 
Well, let's not over sell - I installed mine last year. The plumbing part was very easy for me. But depending on your equipment, it might be as easy as cutting out a section of pipe to add the cell...or it might be a few to many fittings and pieces of pipe to reroute things so it will fit. Help here is readily available if you get to that point. Most brands have limited or no warranty for DIY installs. Circupool is one that does not penalize a DIY'er. Electrically, you need to make sure it will turn off when the pump isn't running. That may be by a clock timer, or an integrated automation system. If you already have the automation, then your choice of compatible brands would narrow. I had neither, so it cost several hundred to have an electrician install the timer I needed. If you're waiting until you get a new pump, then a lot of this should only be a minor bump up in the installation costs. While the cost calculations are right on, the other downside is that they stop working below 50 or 60 degrees water temp. I have no clue as to Tampa winters, but know from the Pensacola area there may be a couple of months of colder water (if you don't heat it, of course). Then you would have to go back to jugs for that period.
As noted, a variable speed pump is fantastic with this - you can usually run 24/7 on low/very low speed - which makes a VERY remarkable drop in you electric bill.
But even here in Minnesota, where the pool season is barely Memorial Day to Labor Day, it is the best improvement I have ever made to my pool. Oh the wasted years, work, and money before this....
 
the other downside is that they stop working below 50 or 60 degrees water temp.
Worth noting is that daily UV loss is very little once the cell shuts off late in the year. A single dose of liquid chlorine can last a week or even weeks.

So this is a downside, but not nearly to the extent that it sounds. If anything, a handful of winter doses will remind you how awesome it is when it's dosing daily for you the bulk of the year.
 
In Tampa, I doubt water temp is an issue and the unit likley would run all year albeit dialed back a bit in the winter months. .
 
I believe the lowest temps my pool has reached is 68 degrees for a week or so in the "coldest" part of winter here in Tampa. This has all been fantastic info. Thank you all.

I should probably try and figure out what all new pool equipment I want (pump, SWG, etc) *now* so I'm not rushed to pick what's best when the current equipment breaks on me haha
 
We are directly east of you on the other coast. We did a complete pool remodel in 2020 (coping, new pebble plaster, pavered deck plus automation). I would never go back to liquid chlorine. Our Pentair IC-40 Is still going strong. And it chlorinates while we are away for trips. Given that we never "close" the pool, our season is year-round.
 
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