Which level should I address first?

Order isn't really important, do it all at once. Pucks are too slow. Add 30 ppm CYA in a sock or knee high and give it a squeeze to help it dissolve, raise FC to 3 now and starting tomorrow set FC based on CYA at 30 ppm, [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. Keep your pH between 7.5 and 7.8 at all times. Add bleach on the opposite side of the pool as you add acid so they don't mix.

More here on how to add pool chems, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
 
That 2.5 CC is worrisome. How does the water look? Is it green? Cloudy? The answer to that affects the answer I give. So does whether or not you've been using any nonchlorine "shock" powders, because they can mess up that reading.

But certainly add some acid to lower pH. You have very high TA and you are at the top of the scale so yor pH may actually be higher. Target 7.2 when you calculate amounts, and add it to the return stream.

Next you weigh out enough CYA to get to 30 ppm and put that in a sock in the skimmer or dangling in front of a return. You want a lot of water movement to dissolve it fast. Kneading it every half hour or so will speed things up.

When you're done fumbling with the CYA, recheck pH. Since you may have been off the scale, you might not have reached 7.2. If not, plug in the new numbers and dose it again.

Chlorine is next. What to target depends on your answers to my questions at the top.
 
The water was pond like upon opening. Did not have my tf-100 yet so I could not properly test pool. So while I waited for the new kit to come in, I added 12.5% sodium-hypo. about a gal. over 4 days and brushed. I did use one 1lb bag of shock.

Water cleared up, (people think it looks great) but I can tell it is still off. Went away for the holiday weekend. Kit came in tested.(Reading I posted) vacuumed then backwashed filter. That where I am as of today. Readings are 2 days old. Last night I added a puck and some liquid chlro.

will test when I get home.
 
You should be skipping the pucks, shock and cal hypo. Santition can be done using liquid chlorine only. It won't take alotbfor your size pool, and the other forms of chlorine added chemicals you don't need or want at high levels.
 
If you have di or tri lying around, it wouldn't hurt anything, since you have no CYA. But, I wouldn't go out and buy them.

Under these circumstances, the main problem I have with stabilized chlorine is that it complicates the process. It adds FC (but by how much and how fast?), it raises your CYA (by how much?), it lowers your pH (by how much?)

It's certainly not going to address all of the issues perfectly. So, you have to take it all into consideration when addressing each parameter separately, and mistakes happen.
 
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