What do I need, CH is low

May 26, 2017
70
West Hills, Ca.
Hi! RO'ed about 2 months ago now and maintaining a FC of 3 with liq chlorine. I had a CYA of about 40-45 when the RO finished. Now, I did a test and I get two results. My Taylor kit gives me about 50 for CYA and a larger comparator tube test with the Blue Devil kit (https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Devil-B7524C-Cyanuric-Acid/dp/B00JDHOP8Y) shows me at about 30! I'll see what my pool store says (why not?!)

FC = 4.4 (just installed Liquidator, still dialing it in using 10% HDX brand liq chlorine)
CC = >0.2
pH = 7.8 - acid demand tests suggests about 2Qt Muriatic acid to get me to 7.5. I used to be about 7.6 after the RO
TA = 80-85
CH = 85-90
CSI = -0.22 (according to pool math)

My CH should be what, about 200? How do I raise this without raising pH? Should I use CalHype chlorine pucks for a while?
CSI is ok it seems (plaster/concrete pool)
I'm mostly concerned with CYA readings being so different between the two tests. The Taylor kit has always shown about 50 while the Blue Devil was about 40 when I finished the RO. Now, after two tests using beoth kits, I'm confused as to which I should use. To be fair, I ran out of Taylor CYA reagent, so I used the Blue Devil refill reagent in the Taylor test, is that bad?
 
You need about 250 for the CH level in a plaster pool. You need calcium chloride dihydrate or calcium chloride. You can often find it as road de-icers at hardware stores, or as calcium increaser at pool stores.
 
If the active ingredients are calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate it will be just fine. Here are a few brand names: Peladow, Dowflake, Tetraflake, & Tetra94

Use PoolMath to show how much to add to reach 250 ppm.
 
So I finally got around to getting pool store readings and they had my CYA at 40, right in between the Blue Devil kit (30) and the Taylor kit (50). Funny that! And amazingly they said my phosphates were over 1000 and I needed their additive. Not a chance! My test showed Phosphates between 200 and 500.
In any event, following advice here after an RO a month ago and so far no green on the walls and the water has never been more clear. :)
 
If the active ingredients are calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate it will be just fine. Here are a few brand names: Peladow, Dowflake, Tetraflake, & Tetra94

Use PoolMath to show how much to add to reach 250 ppm.

Thanks for the tip on where to buy calcium chloride. I also need to increase CH from 170 to 250. Home Depot sells the Snow Joe brand at professional strength for $35.15.
 
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