Cool, thanks for all the info. That sounds relatively easy. Would undisolved sodium bicarb damage the plaster at all if it sits on the bottom too long? One of the benefits of the 55gal drum method seems to be that the bicarb will already be in solution when it enters the pool.
I had read about people filling the joints with plaster. I considered it, but I’ve already got the grout and like the spacing of the tile as is. I went and picked up the tile today and was surprised at the markup for regular folks vs contractors. We’re talking ~$10/sq ft. Luckily, I am able to purchase at contractor prices.
Waterline tile looks like it will be wrapped up today and I will get back to working on stone tomorrow. I still need to attach the travertine to the top of the block wall, which brings me to another question. How do people usually adhere stone to the plastic on the sheer descents? My sheers are flush with the top of the wall. I have good thinset to use for the stone/cement bond, but I’m at a bit of a loss for the stone/plastic bond. It looks like some polyurethane construction adhesives are capable of bonding the two. Any recommendations?
I had read about people filling the joints with plaster. I considered it, but I’ve already got the grout and like the spacing of the tile as is. I went and picked up the tile today and was surprised at the markup for regular folks vs contractors. We’re talking ~$10/sq ft. Luckily, I am able to purchase at contractor prices.
Waterline tile looks like it will be wrapped up today and I will get back to working on stone tomorrow. I still need to attach the travertine to the top of the block wall, which brings me to another question. How do people usually adhere stone to the plastic on the sheer descents? My sheers are flush with the top of the wall. I have good thinset to use for the stone/cement bond, but I’m at a bit of a loss for the stone/plastic bond. It looks like some polyurethane construction adhesives are capable of bonding the two. Any recommendations?